In My Hands Today…

Posted on April 12, 2025 by memoriesandsuch

Bewildered – Laura Waters

What would move you to ditch your life and take off into the wild for five months? For Laura Waters, it took the implosion of a toxic relationship and a crippling bout of anxiety. Armed with maps, a compass and her life in a bag on her back, she set out to walk the untamed landscapes of the Te Araroa trail in New Zealand, 3000 kilometres of raw, wild, mountainous trail winding from the top of the North Island to the frosty tip of the South Island. But when her walking partner dropped out on the second day, she was faced with a choice: abandon the journey, or face her fears and continue on alone? She chose to walk on.

For five months, Laura battled not only treacherous terrain and elements, but also the demons of self-doubt and anxiety. As the kilometres fell behind her, nature did its work, stripping away her identity and guiding her towards a new way of being. At the end of Te Araroa, it was the hard-earned insights into the power of nature, emotional wellbeing and fulfilling relationships – with others as well as with herself – that were Laura’s greatest accomplishments. She emerged ‘rewilded’, and it transformed her life.

Travel Bucket List: Nepal – Part 14

Posted on April 11, 2025 by memoriesandsuch

Lumbini
The birthplace of Lord Buddha, Lumbini, aka ‘the lovely’, is a UNESCO World Heritage site as well as a Buddhist pilgrimage site. According to the sacred texts of the Buddhist Commentaries, Maya Devi gave birth to Siddhartha Gautama in Lumbini in c.624 BC, who then achieved Enlightenment, and became Shakyamuni Buddha, the founder of Buddhism. He later passed into parinirvana at the age of 80 years, in 544 BC. Lumbini is one of four most sacred pilgrimage sites pivotal in the life of the Buddha.

Lumbini has a number of old temples, including the Mayadevi Temple, and several new temples, funded by Buddhist organisations from various countries. Most of the temples have already been completed and some are still under construction. The Puskarini, or Holy Pond, is where Mayadevi, the Buddha’s mother, is believed to have taken the ritual bath prior to his birth and where the Buddha also had his first bath. At other sites near Lumbini, earlier Buddhas were born, then achieved ultimate Enlightenment and finally relinquished their earthly forms. Lumbini was made a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1997. The Lumbini Development Zone, designed by Japanese architect Kenzo Tange, offers a deeper dive into Buddhist heritage. Divided into eastern and western monastic zones, it houses impressive monasteries from countries like Thailand, Myanmar, China, and Japan. Beyond its spiritual and historical treasures, Lumbini is surrounded by the natural beauty of the Terai plains. The nearby Lumbini Crane Sanctuary is a haven for the endangered Sarus cranes and other wildlife, promoting conservation and offering a serene escape into nature.

In the time of the Buddha, Lumbini was situated east of Kapilavastu and south-west of Devadaha of Shakya, an oligarchic republic. According to the Buddhist tradition, it was there that the Buddha was born. The Ashoka Pillar of Lumbini, a monolithic column with an inscription in the ancient Brahmi script discovered at Rupandehi in 1896, is believed to mark the spot of Ashoka’s visit to Lumbini.

In 1896, former Commander-In-Chief of the Nepalese Army General Khadga Shamsher Jang Bahadur Rana and Alois Anton Führer discovered a great stone pillar at Rupandehi, according to historical records made by the ancient Chinese monk-pilgrim Xuanzang in the 7th century and by another ancient Chinese monk-pilgrim Faxian in the early 5th century. The Brahmi inscription on the pillar gives evidence that Ashoka, emperor of the Maurya Empire, visited the place in 3rd-century BCE and identified it as the birth-place of the Buddha.

Lumbini is 4.8 km in length and 1.6 km in width. It is bordered by a large monastic zone in which only monasteries can be built, no shops, hotels or restaurants. It is separated into an eastern and western monastic zone, the eastern having the Theravadin monasteries, the western having Mahayana and Vajrayana monasteries. There is a long water filled canal separating the western and eastern zones, with a series of brick arch bridges joining the two sides along the length. The canal is serviced by simple outboard motor boats at the north end which provides tours.

The Lumbini complex is divided into three areas: the Sacred Garden, the Monastic Zone and the Cultural Centre and New Lumbini Village. The Sacred Garden remains the epicenter of the Lumbini area and consists of the birthplace of Buddha and other monuments of archaeological and spiritual importance such as the Mayadevi Temple, the Ashoka Pillar, the Marker Stone, the Nativity Sculpture, Puskarini Sacred Pond and other structural ruins of Buddhist stupas and viharas. The Monastic Zone, spanning one square mile is divided into two zones: the East Monastic Zone which represents Theravada school of Buddhism and the West Monastic Zone which represents Mahayana and Vajrayana school of Buddhism, with their respective monasteries on the either side of a long pedestrian walkway and canal. Marking the monastic spot as a sacred pilgrimage site, many countries have established Buddhist stupas and monasteries in the monastic zone with their unique historical, cultural and spiritual designs. The Cultural Centre and New Lumbini Village comprises Lumbini Museum, Lumbini International Research Institute, World Peace Pagoda of Japan, Lumbini Crane Sanctuary and other administrative offices. New excavations in the Mayadevi temple in Lumbini in 2013 revealed a series of the most ancient Buddhist shrines in South Asia extending the history of the site to a much earlier date.

The Lumbini Monastic Site is a sacred complex dedicated to preserving the spiritual and historical significance of Lord Buddha’s birthplace. This expansive area is part of the larger Lumbini Development Zone, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The site features an array of monasteries, meditation centres, and monuments, as well as numerous meditation centres. It is designed to accommodate pilgrims and visitors, offering them a place for meditation, study, and reflection. The site is divided into two zones: the East Monastic Zone, dedicated to Theravada Buddhism, and the West Monastic Zone, which primarily features Mahayana and Vajrayana monasteries. The Monastic Site is adjacent to the Sacred Garden, which contains the Maya Devi Temple, the Ashoka Pillar, and the sacred Bodhi tree.

The West Monastic Zone houses fourteen Mahayana Monasteries and two Vipassana meditation centres. Vajrayana includes traditions of Tantra and Mantra in Buddhism. The name is derived from a mythical weapon, Vajra, and revolves around rituals and practices using Mudras, Dharanis, Mandalas and Mantras. Vajrayana is considered one of three paths that lead to enlightenment. The Mahayana Temples are devoted to the classification & traditions of Buddhism and its philosophies. It refers to the path of the Bodhisattva where one seeks enlightenment that doesn’t just benefit them but also all the living beings. Those who have attained this stage are called Samyaksambuddha who are believed to have the ability to teach the technique and help others attain enlightenment in one lifetime.

The East Monastic Zone has monasteries where Theravada Buddhism is specifically practised and is also called the Southern Buddhism Zone. The temples in this zone function as per the principles of the senior Buddhist monks. These principles have helped maintain the true essence of Buddhism and keep it as close as possible to the genuine techniques taught by Gautama Buddha. It is one of the ways to live life in complete harmony with other living things on the planet. Up until now, they have helped devotees understand the reality behind the teachings and provided a way of attaining self-liberation by dedicating their lives to a long-term monastic way of living and genuine meditation practices.

Located 24 km from Lumbini, Tilaurakot houses remains of Kapilavstu and is considered to be where Lord Gautama Buddha spent 29 years if his life. Its unearthing is marked as a significant event that reveals the historical life of Gautama Buddha. It is set in the district of Kapilavastu which is believed to be the site of the ancient city of the Shakyas. The exposed ruins include foundations of a structure that resemble a residential complex. Studies reveal that Gautama Buddha had lived his life as a prince and received all the royal luxuries before renouncing his throne and walking out of the Eastern Gate. Tilaurakot is termed as a UNESCO tentative site and is a significant tourist attraction. It is situated on the banks of Banaganga Rice and is surrounded by trees. A small museum in the vicinity has some of the objects that were found during excavation. Tilaurakot was discovered in the 19th century when archaeologists began their search of Kapilavastu based on the information documented by two Chinese Buddhist Monks, Faxian and Xuanzang.

The Maya Devi Temple is a revered and historically significant site marking the birthplace of Siddhartha Gautama, who later became known as Buddha. Situated in the Lumbini Garden, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The temple complex includes ancient ruins, stupas, and monuments dating back to the 3rd century BCE and later. Inside the temple, a marker stone is placed on the exact spot where Buddha is believed to have been born. The temple is next to the sacred pool called Pushkarini and a sacred garden. A significant bas-relief sculpture within the temple depicts Queen Maya Devi holding onto a Sal tree while giving birth to Siddhartha Gautama. This image is one of the most iconic representations of the birth of Buddha. The temple complex is surrounded by ancient stupas and pillars, including the famous Ashoka Pillar. Erected by Emperor Ashoka in 249 BC, the pillar bears inscriptions that commemorate his visit to Lumbini and the significance of the site.

The history of the temple goes back to 2013 when an international team of archaeologists found a few ruins dating back to the sixth century BC. It was the remains of an ancient tree shrine that belongs to 550 BC. The researchers found out that the site is the earliest evidence of Buddhism as well as of Gautam Buddha.

Maya Devi Temple has a number of places within its complex to explore. The famous Ashoka Pillar is located in Maya Devi Temple. The inscription says that the pillar was erected by the people who were in charge of Emperor Ashoka’s visit to the park in 249 BC. The inscription is oldest in Nepal. The sacred bathing pond is located right next to the shrine, is where Maya Devi took a bath before giving birth. The most beautiful and well-decorated sight at Maya Devi Temple is the Bodhi Tree. It is related to the ancient fig tree and is characterised by heart-shaped leaves. The heart shape refers to the time when Buddha achieved enlightenment. The Bodhi tree is kept clean and is decorated with colourful prayer flags. The temple is open daily from 6 am to 6 pm. Entry is free for Indian and Nepali citizens, SAARC passport holders pay NPR 100 while foreigners pay NPR 200.

The Japan Peace Stupa, also known as World Peace Pagoda is an early 21st century monument. Located outside the main compound, the structure is a glorious stupa with traditional pagoda style architecture. Constructed by Japanese Buddhists at a cost of US $1 million, the monument is coloured white with a golden Buddha statue. The majestic structure has a dome in the centre that can be reached by climbing one of the two flights of stairs leading to it. On the second level, there’s a corridor encircling the dome. The Symbol of Peace is open all days of the week. The pagoda is open daily between 8 am and 8 pm.

The Royal Thai Monastery in Lumbini is an imposing and stunning wat-style monastery. The gleaming building is constructed from white marble with a blue-roofed meditation centre closeby. The Dharma Swami Maharaja Buddha Vihar is a Buddhist Gompa belonging to the Sakyapa order. It was established by His Eminence Chogya Trichen Rinpoche. Every day, Tara Pooja is performed by the 600 monks residing in the monastery.

The Cambodian Monastery is an amalgamation of colourful fantasy and spiritual forces making it one of the most fascinating temples in the region. Built in a architectural design matching the famous Angkor Wat, the charming monastery is surrounded by a square railing, each having four 50m green snakes. The large compound has an outer wall covered with beautiful and intricate designs.

The Sri Lankan Monastery also known as the Sri Lanka Maha Vihara, showcases traditional Sri Lankan architectural elements. The monastery is a Theravada Buddhist establishment dedicated to Sri Lanka. It is a striking monastery nestled in the East Monastic Zone, which has a spherical raised platform with a traditional Pagoda. Underneath the Pagoda is a beautiful golden idol of Lord Buddha, seen seated in a meditating posture. This arrangement has a pathway that encircles the structure and provides an area for circumambulation. The monastery holds several critical religious events and practices, especially those followed in Sri Lanka.

The Thrangu Vajra Vidya Monastery is a monastery dedicated to Thrangu Rinpoche. He believed in the teachings of Buddha, building his principles on peace, knowledge and unity. Today, this monastery has a number of students who are aspiring monks. The monastery is open daily from 8 am to 5 pm.

A chorten created by Buddhists from Manang in Northern Nepal, the Manang Samaj Stupa is known to be one of the oldest Stupas in Nepal, dating back to the birth of Gautam Buddha in 600 BC. There is a golden Buddha Statue in the middle of this building and is surrounded by colourful murals. At present, this attraction is believed that it will go under renovation soon. The monastery is open daily from 8 am to 5 pm.

The Great Drigung Lotus Stupa is one of the most religiously important Stupas in Lumbini and was built by the German Tara Foundation. The building contains a hollow crown partly covered in glass which reveals the Buddha statue inside. The domed ceiling of the Stupa is covered with Buddhist murals. The gold, wood and carvings represent the beliefs and teachings of Buddha that spreads the message of peace and non-violence.

Dae Sung Shakya Sa, popularly known as the Korean Temple is an impressive structure built in a Korean style of architecture with colourful murals on the ceiling. It even offers community sleeping area as well as three meals a day to visitors for a few days at a minimal cost of NOR 500 per day. Meditating in the courtyard full of monks and pilgrims is a peaceful and refreshing experience. Entry fee to the monastery is NPR 400.

The Myanmar Golden Temple in Lumbini is the oldest structure of the city. Built in the Burmese style of architecture, the impressive corncob-shaped shikhara, styled after the temples of Bagan gives a regal look to the whole structure. There are three prayer halls and a Lokamani Pula Pagoda inside the building. The temples is open daily from 8 am to 12 noon and then again between 1 to 5 pm.

The Zhong Hua Chinese Buddhist Monastery, popularly known as the China Temple is an impressive structure is built in a pagoda-style of architecture and resembles the look of the famous forbidden city of China. As one enters, the perfectly manicured internal courtyard fills the heart with peace and joy. The Vietnam Phat Quoc Tu Temple has a facade flanked with artificial mountains and a grand roof.

The Supa Deurali Temple, located near Lumbini in the Arghakhanchi District is a significant Hindu shrine dedicated to the goddess Durga. It is a popular pilgrimage site, especially for those traveling to or from Lumbini. Devotees believe that worshipping at the Supa Deurali Temple brings protection, prosperity, and the fulfillment of wishes. The temple showcases traditional Nepalese architectural elements with an inner sanctum housing the idol of the Goddess Durga, where devotees offer prayers, flowers, and other offerings. The temple is built using local stone and wood, reflecting the vernacular architecture of the region. It is particularly vibrant during Hindu festivals of Dashain and Navratri. The temple is associated with numerous local legends and myths, which enhance its spiritual allure. One popular belief is that those who pray earnestly at Supa Deurali and make a vow will have their wishes fulfilled by the goddess.

Maula Kalika, a revered Hindu temple located near Gaindakot, is dedicated to the goddess Kali. Perched atop Maula Hill, the temple offers stunning panoramic views of the surrounding landscapes. While it is not in immediate proximity to Lumbini, it is accessible from the region. The journey to the temple includes ascending stone steps, which are surrounded by lush greenery. Devotees visit Maula Kalika to seek blessings, protection, and the fulfillment of their wishes. The temple holds particular importance during the festivals of Dashain and Navaratri. The temple features traditional Nepalese temple architecture with the inner sanctum housing the idol of the Goddess Kali, adorned with flowers, offerings, and traditional decorations. Symbols of the goddess’s power and presence are prominently displayed around the temple. One of the main attractions of Maula Kalika Temple is its location. From the temple, visitors can enjoy panoramic views of the Terai plains, the Trishuli River, and the distant Himalayan peaks.

Located near Butwal, Manimukunda Sen Park is a picturesque and historically significant park. Named after King Manimukunda Sen, a medieval king of the Palpa kingdom, it is easily accessible by road, making it a convenient day trip for visitors staying in Lumbini. The park is renowned for its lush greenery, well-maintained gardens, and peaceful ambiance and is a popular spot for picnics and family outings. According to local legends, the king used the area as a summer retreat. The ruins of his palace can still be seen within the park, adding a historical dimension to the natural beauty of the area. Visitors can enjoy leisurely walks along tree-lined paths, relax on well-manicured lawns, and take in the scenic views of the surrounding hills. It also features a variety of plant species, making it a haven for botany enthusiasts. The park includes a designated play area for children, equipped with swings, slides, and other playground equipment.

Lumbini Garden, the birthplace of Siddhartha Gautama or the Buddha and an important Buddhist pilgrimage site is now a sanctuary for cranes. This sanctuary is spread over the area of 6 sq km and consists of the ruins of the palace of Tilaurakot where Siddhartha Gautam spent 29 years of his life. It is one of the most unique attractions in Nepal and is definitely worth a visit. The crane sanctuary aims at protecting the endangered Sarus Cranes in and around the wetlands of this area by creating a local community for their protection and to restore their natural habitat while creating an education facility around this conversation. It is believed that Gautam Buddha fought for the preservation of this bird, around 2500 years ago, and the Lumbini Crane Sanctuary wishes to continue his noble mission.Along with the Sarus Cranes, one may get a chance to see the antelope-like blue bull. Hence, for those who are interested in Buddhism or wildlife conservation, must visit this attraction. Entry to the sanctuary is free.

Located inside the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Sacred Garden Area, the Lumbini Museum displays about 12,000 artifacts including religious manuscripts, metal sculptures, Terra cottas, coins from Maurya and Khusana dynasty and stamps from all over the world depicting Lumbini. The Lumbini International Research Institute (LIRI), located opposite the Lumbini Museum, provides research facilities for the study of Buddhism and religion in general. This museum was built in the 1970s and is now reimagined by architect Kris Yao from Taiwan and his team.

Travel Bucket List: Nepal – Part 13

Posted on April 4, 2025 by memoriesandsuch

Janakpur
Janakpurdham or Janakpur is the capital city of the Madhesh Province and is the central hub for Maithili language, religion and cultural tourism in Nepal. One of the fastest developing cities of Nepal, Janakpur is the largest sub-metropolitan city in the country and is currently the fourth most densely populated city. Janakpur is located about 23 km away from the Bhitthamore border with India and Nepal Railways operates a train service between Janakpur and Jaynagar in Bihar, India.

The city was founded in the early 18th century but was retrospectively assigned as the location of the capital of the Videha kingdom although there is no archaeological evidence to support this. Janakpurdham, popularly known as Janakpur is named after the late King of Videha in Mithila region – Janaka. The rulers of the Videha kingdom were accorded the title Janaka, meaning father in Sanskrit, and this character is the best-known bearer of the same.

Accounts from ascetics, pandits, and bards indicate that Janakpur was founded in the early 18th century. The earliest description of Janakpur as a pilgrimage site dates to 1805. Earlier archaeological evidence of the presence of an ancient city has not been found and there is a lack of evidence to assign the modern-day city of Janakpur to the ancient capital of the Videha kingdom. Until the 1950s, Janakpur was a cluster of rural hamlets inhabited by farmers, artisans, priests, and clerks who worked for the monasteries that controlled the land. After the Independence Act in India, Janakpur expanded into a commercial centre and became the capital of the Dhanusa District in the 1960s.

Gautama Buddha and Vardhamana Mahavira, the 24th and final Tirthankara of the Jain religion are said to have lived in Janakpur. The region was an important centre for the history of Mithila during the first millennium. Following the Sugauli Treaty in 1816 between the Nepali rulers and the British East India Company, the northern part of ancient Mithila state, including Janakpur, became part of Nepal, while the southern part went into India.

Dedicated to Goddess Sita, Janaki Mandir is the biggest temple in Nepal. It is constructed where Goddess Sita is said to have been born. The attraction is now considered a religiously important monument and a heritage site but is still an active temple for devotees. The Janaki Mandir is an example of the Hindu-Koiri Nepali style of architecture having a stunning white facade. The 3 storied temple is built entirely of stones and marble, while the 60 rooms inside are adorned with Nepali flag, engravings, paintings, beautiful lattice windows and turrets. Devotees predominantly throng the Janaki temple during auspicious occasions and festivals like the Ram Navami, Vivah Panchami, Dashain, Deepavali, and Holi from all around Nepal, Sri Lanka and India to worship the Goddess who is deemed an epitome of courage, purity, selflessness, dedication, loyalty and feminine virtues.

The temple was built by the Queen of Tikamgarh, Queen Vrisha Bhanu in 1910 and called the Nau Lakha Mandir. ‘Nau lakha’ translates into nine lakhs and has been derived from the fact that it took 900,000 Rupees to construct the temple at the time. The shrine is often associated with a well-known poet and saint, Sanyasi Shurkishordas, the founder of Janakpur. Shurkishordas is said to have preached the philosophy from Sita Upashinad most of his life. It is also believed that he found a golden statue of Goddess Sita at the site in 1657 which led to the faith that Sita lived here most of her life until she was married.

As one approaches the temple, one will get a clear view of the building which is in white with domes, pillars and verandas that resemble a palace. The temple is striking, a one-of-a-kind fusion of Hindu, Mughal and Koiri types of architecture made of white marble and occupying an area of over 4800 sq ft. To enter, one has to walk through the central 30-metre-high arched gate on the ground floor. As one proceeds, one will reach a courtyard with the sanctum sanctorum in the centre that houses a grand idol of Goddess Sita. There are a total of 60 chambers or rooms inside the temple complex that are adorned with intricate lattice windows, coloured glass, beautiful paintings and captivating carvings. There are also smaller shrines in the temple complex. These are called sannadhis and have idols of King Janak, Queen Sunaina, Lord Rama, another statue of Sita, Lakshmana, and Urmila.

After exploring the sanctum sanctorum, the sannadhis and the rooms, as one surveys the rest of the complex, one will find a collection of black stones behind the main shrine. These stones are called Saligrams, the sacred black stones that King Janaka used to worship. They are considered to be highly powerful and are mostly found in the houses of devotees who perform all the important rituals without fail. The temple priests allow visitors to offer prayers to these sacred stones and also share their knowledge about the saligrams, the shrine and the legend of Ramayana. The temple is open daily between 5:30 and 11 am and then again between 4 to 8:30 pm.

The Dolakha Bhimsen Mandir or Bhimeshwar Mandir is dedicated to Prince Bhim or Bhimsen. He was the second oldest Pandav brother from the epic, Mahabharata. The roofless temple houses a triangular idol made of rough stone. According to a legend, the idols resemble three different deities at different times of the day – Lord Bhim, Goddess Bhagawati and Lord Shiva.

The Ratna Sagar Temple is dedicated to Lord Ram and is his consort Goddess Sita. The tall temple is surrounded by a magnificent garden and a sacred pond called Ratna Sagar. The temple is closed on Sundays and Mondays and is open from 10:30 am to 4 pm on Tuesday to Saturday. Nepalis can enter for free while foreigners need to pay NPR 1000.

Ram Mandir is one of the oldest temples in Janakpur built in the late 1700s by Amar Singh Thapa, a Gorkhali general. The architecture of the temple is the traditional pagoda-style like the other shrines in the region. The modestly quaint temple is flocked by pilgrims during the occasion of Ram Navami and Dashain. The temple is open daily from 6 am to 7 pm.

The Ram Sita Vivah Mandap is where Ram and Sita got married. The place is thronged by thousands of pilgrims on Vivah Panchami, usually celebrated on the fifth day of the Shukla Paksha or waxing phase of moon in November/December. The mandap is a gorgeous structure made of marble located in the southwest region of the Janaki Mandir. It resembles a part of a palace with sturdy pillars, elegant arches and stunning domes.

At the centre of the mandap, the legendary wedding ceremony is depicted. One can see idols of the couple, Goddess Sita and Lord Rama, sitting on a raised pedestal in the centre while some sages and their parents are seen seated on parallel pedestals facing each other. The idols are draped in colourful attire. Devotees can offer their prayers and sit in complete silence to soak in the tranquil vibe of the temple. The Mandap is open from 6 am to 7 pm daily.

Located close to Janak Mahal, Ganga Sagar is a huge lake that is considered to be sacred. It is considered to be one of the more important pools in Janakpur along with Dhanush Sagar. Close to the lake is the 70-year-old Ganga Sagar library which is frequented by locals who come here to read the newspapers after a morning spent at the lake.

Dhanush Sagar is a sacred tank located near the famous Ram Mandir. It is also the largest ceremonial tank in the city. Visitors can see several small shrines all around the perimeter and vendors selling flowers and other ritual objects. Taking a bath at the ghat is considered sacred by the devotees.

Rolwaling Valley, between the Everest and Langtang Himalaya ranges, is the toughest and most thrilling trekking trail in Nepal. The valley has an abundance of alpine lakes, hanging glaciers, moraines, high pastures, waterfalls and an imminent view of snowy peaks. Rich in varying flora and fauna, it is home to many endangered and globally threatened animals.

Jaleswar is a small municipality in Nepal named after the holy temple of Jaleshwarnath Mahadev, dedicated to Lord Shiva. The small town borders India with Bihar. During the months of Shravan in July and August, devotees from all over the world flock here to pay their respects to the Lord and his consort, Parvati. Since Jaleshwar revolves only around the Jaleshwarnath Temple, the transport facilities within the temple are quite functional and comprehensive.

Biratnagar
The economic centre of eastern Nepal, Biratnagar serves as the capital of the Koshi Province. With a Metropolitan Urban Agglomeration population of 244,750 as per the 2021 census, it is the largest city and fastest-growing city in the province and also the headquarters of the Morang district. It is located 399 km east of Kathmandu, and 6 km north of the bordering town of Jogbani in the Indian state of Bihar which is very well connected through Rani Path or the old highway and Koshi Path or the new highway. It is one of the major entry points into Nepal for businessmen and tourists visiting Nepal. The city is home to various large and medium-scale industries. Modern-day Biratnagar serves as an entry point to eastern Nepal as well as north-eastern India. It is the second Nepali city, after Janakpur, to have a connection with the Indian Railways and the only city other than Birgunj to operate an integrated check post (ICP) on the Indian border.

In 1914, Colonel Jit Bahadur Khatri, the then-district governor, laid the foundations of modern Biratnagar. The recorded history of Biratnagar dates back to the beginning of the 7th century when King Mung Mawrong Hang came to prominence in the terai lands of Limbuwan (present-day Sunsari, Morang, and Jhapa areas). He cleared much of the forest area in present-day Rangeli, east of Biratnagar, and built a town there. He named his Kingdom Morang after his name and rose to power. The old name of Biratnagar was Gograha Bazaar. The ruins of temples, palaces, and ponds are scattered in a vast area to the south of the current city, in Vedhyari, and Buddhanagar.

The town was named Biratnagar in 1919 by Keshar Shamsher Rana after the ruins of a palace, thought to be of King Virat. The kingdom of Virata mentioned in Mahabharata is however believed to be Viratnagar, located in present-day Rajasthan. King Virata was the king of the Matsya Kingdom, in whose court the Pandavas spent a year in concealment during their exile.

In Nepali, Birat refers to King Virata of the Matsya Kingdom and Nagar means a city. On 4 March 1947, the first anti-Rana movement in Nepal started in Biratnagar at the Biratnagar jute mills under the leadership of Girija Prasad Koirala and B. P. Koirala. This sparked a countrywide anti-Rana demonstration that eventually led to the abolishment of Rana rule in Nepal.

Baraha Chhetra is one of the most famous pilgrimage sites in Nepal. According to history, an evil demon known as Hiranyakashyapu was killed by Lord Vishnu here and that’s why this place is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. It is believed that the statues in this temple have been existing since the 5th century. There is also a stone in front of the temple that is said to predict whether you are sinful or not and people strongly believe in the sayings of the stone.

Dhankuta is known as the cleanest place in Nepal. If one is thinking about shopping in Nepal for reasonable prices, then Dhankuta is where they have to go. The forests of Tinjure, Milke and Jaljale are said to be one of the calmest and beautiful places on earth. The peaks of these forests offer stunning views of Mount Kanchenjunga, Mount Makalu and Mount Everest. The trails are completely covered with colourful flowers and more than 30 spices of Rhododendron are grown here. Lucky visitors can spot some rare birds such as the Daafe and the Serpent Eagle.

Started in 1936, the Jute Mills in Biratnagar is said to be the oldest in the country. It was noted to be the first registered company in Nepal. Biratnagar Jute Mills are considered to be one of the most important industries in the country as it was established after the orders of Juddha Shamsher, who was the Prime Minister of Nepal at that time.

Ilam is a beautiful hill station offering stunning views of the hills, complete with fog and mists. It is completely covered with tea plantations which make the tea in Ilam popular and delicious. Located 3636 m above sea level, Ilam is sometimes called Charkhol which means the area of four rivers: Jogmai, Puwamai, Mai, and Deaumai.

The Dakshin Kali Temple is dedicated to Goddess Kali, another incarnation of Goddess Parvati but always thirsty for blood. At the temple, known as the blood-soaked temple, devotees worship the goddess through animal sacrifices.

Located on the Northern slopes of the Himalayas and Southern slopes of Nepal, the Koshi River is considered to be holy and is worshipped. People believe that bathing in the Koshi River will clear their sins and allow them to go to heaven. The Koshi River is also a source of food for people living nearby as many species of fish and water animals can be found in this river.

Itahari
A sub-metropolitan city with seven municipalities, Itahari has recently evolved into a bustling transportation junction in eastern Nepal. The two main branches of the Nepal highway: the Mahendra Highway that runs from east to west and the Koshi Highway from north to south cross each other at Itahari, making the city a traffic nerve centre of Nepalese transportation. Established in 1997, Itahari was declared a metro city in 2014. Situated 25 km north of Biratnagar, Itahari is a junction point of the east-west Mahendra Highway and the north–south Koshi Highway.

Only a quarter of an hour’s drive away is one of Itahari’s major attraction sites – Taal Talaiya, meaning wetland in the local dialect. It is a charming ecological park, with lush greenery and crisscrossing roadways in between. The new art installations from an international sculpture art workshop in 2016 have left behind some masterpieces. There are around 55 such contemporary sculptures with one particularly haunting sculpture called the ‘Stone of Heart’ by an Israeli artist.

Ocean Park is a lovely and cheerful attraction for those who love the water, real or artificial. The place has an international-sized swimming pool for experts and veterans. Several other smaller pools, aided with fun and exciting features like a waterfall, fountains, water slides add to the allure of the attraction. Ocean Park plays Hindi, and English and occasionally Nepali music and it is a great place to let off some steam with your band of friends and enjoy a day out.

Budhikhola Ghat is a calm and quiet place, only a few minutes walk from the city centre. The Ghat or the water bank is where the Budhikhola Bridge connects Sunsari and Morang on two sides of the narrow muddy stream. There is not much water in the stream unless one goes during monsoons. The ghat is cemented with staircases and benches. There is a giant statue of Lord Shiva, along with some other idols.

Birgunj
Located close to Nepal’s border with India, Birgunj is a major point of entry for the Indian goods trade as well as goods coming in from Kolkata. Located in the Terai region, Birgunj is the second-largest city after Biratnagar and the sixth-most populated metropolis in Nepal. It lies about 135 km south of Kathmandu and a popular stopover for people undertaking treks in Nepal such as the Annapurna Base Camp and the surrounding mountains. Birgunj was established as a conglomerate of several villages in and around Gahawa Mai Temple which remains the epicentre of the town. The settlement was named after Nepal’s Prime Minister Rana Bir Shamsher, thus acquiring the name Birgunj. The ancient name of Birgunj was Gahawa but the 11th Rana Prime Minister of Nepal Bir Shamsher Jang Bahadur Rana changed it to Birgunj in 1897.

The Shri Gawaha Mai Temple shares a bit of history with Birgunj. Earlier, Birgunj was known as Gawaha in honour of the Shri Gawaha Mai Temple. Locals often visit this temple for good luck before opening their business. During the Chhath festival, Ghadiarwa Pokhari, a pretty pond surrounded by a garden, is visited by numerous people from different parts of the country. The Vishwa Buddha Vihar, located on the outskirts of the city is a local favourite. The vihar is shaped like a stupa and has engravings of the Buddha facing the cardinal directions. Vishwa is derived from the word vicchu-wa, which translates as a resting place for Bikshus or Buddhist monks and means a resting place. In ancient times, pilgrims stopped at Birgunj during their journey between Lumbini and Bodh Gaya in India. The Parsa National Park, located about 33 km from the city is known for its Royal Bengal tigers, Asian elephants, One-horned rhinoceros, common leopards, and various species of mammals, birds and reptiles. The city is popular for the Bindaswini Temple and its proximity to Arsa Wildlife Reserve & Chitwan National Park.

Travel Bucket List: Nepal Part 12

Posted on March 28, 2025 by memoriesandsuch

Pokhara continues to amaze visitors….

The International Mountain Museum in Pokhara has a stunning collection of artifacts, original gear, stories, and photographs of the mountains, their inhabitants, and the explorers who climbed some of the highest peaks in the world. The museum describes the people living in the Himalayas, the 14 highest peaks, and their most famous expeditions. The museum was established in 1995 by the Nepal Mountaineering Association to maintain a record and document the history, evolution, development, and legendary achievements in mountaineering. Every section of the museum is designed to highlight the commendable accomplishments of famous mountaineers in the majestic Himalayas and around the world. It also includes some exhibits from other mountain areas, such as Slovenia and Japan.

There are three halls that exhibit artefacts arranged in an interesting way to give insights into the traditions of the inhabitants, the biodiversity and geology of the region and information about the mountain peaks and mountaineers who climbed them. The Mountain People Gallery has an impressive display of artefacts arranged systematically. This is the first gallery where one will get to explore the lifestyle, culture and traditions of the inhabitants of the region. Before entering this part of the museum, one is shown a short documentary in the video hall that serves as a prelude to the exhibits in the gallery. The Mountain Gallery is where one can find the geological history and other detailed information on the mountains. Plant and animal replicas, rock samples and photographs from the tallest peaks climbed so far have been exhibited here. The Mountain Activities Gallery is dedicated entirely to the activities on the mountains and has exhibits of apparel, gear, equipment and photographs of the numerous mountain expeditions that took place in the region. Artefacts from the French expedition up the Annapurna led by Maurice Herzog in 1950, the one completed by Junko Tabei, the first woman from Japan to climb Mt. Everest, by Timanishi who was one of the first summiteers to climb Manaslu and the British expeditions to Mount Everest that were carried out between 1921 and 1953 are properly displayed in separate sections in the gallery. A stunning collection of photographs of all the peaks that were conquered by the courageous mountaineers is a must-see here. This section also gives insights into the mythical mammal, Yeti, a humungous brown bear. Stories and photographs of the signs and footprints that the mammal is believed to have left behind are also exhibited.

In the Associates Gallery, there are displays of the socio-economic life of the region. The collection spans across different periods in the past and highlights some important phases. Insights into the plans for the future that will help conserve the biodiversity and evolution of the people in the region can also be found here. This draws quite a few researchers and enthusiasts who seek information to bring about a positive change through their studies and innovations. The museum has a library with an impressive collection of books about the Himalayas and other mountains, achievements of famous mountaineers, books on popular expeditions, regional biodiversity, geology, culture, and traditions. The museum complex also has a Gorkha Village Restaurant that caters to the visitors and serves delicious regional cuisine and a souvenir shop where mementoes and gifts can be purchased. There is a well-maintained garden and lush green lawn with a wall designed to give a first-hand feel to amateur climbers. It has a 9.5 metre tall climbable model of Mount Manaslu and another 21-metre wall that can be climbed. The museum is open daily from 9 am to 5 pm. Entry fee for foreigners is NPR 500, for SAARC nationals, ot is NPR 250, for Nepal citizens, it is NPR 100, students need to pay NPR 50 and those with a resident visa need to pay NPR 250. To access the garden, one needs to pay NPR 30.

Located near Mahendra Pul, the Gorkha Museum is dedicated to commemorating the services of the Gurkha soldiers who joined the British Army in 1815. The museum is open from 8 am to 4:30 pm. Entry fee for foreigners is NPR 200, for SAARC nationals, it is NPR 100, and if one needs to use a camera inside the museum, they need to pay NPR 20.

Established in 1965, the Annapurna Butterfly Museum houses almost all of Nepal’s 660 common, rare and endemic species of butterflies. The collection illustrates their mimicry and camouflage with several charts comparing these species with others found in parts of the Palearctic region. The museum is open from 8 am to 8 pm daily.

The Pokhara Regional Museum is where one can find insights into the ancient culture and history of the Pokhara Valley. With a simple setup and artefacts depicting the tribes, their lifestyle and traditions, the stately museum houses collections that depict the tribal population of the town as well. The modest museum displays models and several valuable antiques from the region. The costumes and accessories exhibited are authentic and give insights into how the earliest tribal population of the region used to dress up. Kitchen and household items include pots, utensils and home decor items that were made with the material sourced from the valleys. Along with the equipment used for agriculture and traps used for fishing, there are religious artefacts and models of houses and some significant events depicted with mannequins for the visitors to get an idea of their traditions and celebrations. Photographs and descriptions have been put up to provide more information. The museum is open from 10 am to 4 pm daily. Entry fees for SAARC nationals is NPR 10, while other foreigners need to pay NPR 30. Camera fees for citizens of SAARC Countries is NPR 70, while for other foreigners, it is NPR 100.

Bat Cave or Chamero Gufa is where one can find thousands of bats. If one’s up for it, they can even explore the complete cave which takes about 10 minutes and wiggle their way through a narrow shaft to reach the surface. The bats here are mostly Horseshoe Bats, which cling upside down on the cool ceilings and dingy caves. This cave could get extremely confined, so those with claustrophobia might want to rethink their visit. The entry fee is around NPR 150, and one will be given a torch along with the entry fee. Guide services are available for NPR 300. There is one exit point of the cave, which is narrow, and the cave can get really slippery, so one should be careful.

Located in Batulechaur, Mahendra cave is a magnificent cave that tourists can explore. The cave is named after King Mahendra Bir Bikram Shah Dev and is a vast natural formation in limestone. Hindus consider the cave sacred and have installed a statue of Lord Shiva, but geographically, this is a cave with calcium salt deposits forming stalactites and stalagmites. The cave was discovered in the mid-1900s by shepherds and has been carefully studied by researchers from the United Kingdom in 1976. The geology & biodiversity of the cave and its surroundings have been documented as a part of the research. The information from the region is deemed necessary for future expeditions and is, to date, used as reference material by scholars. The cave is closed on Tuesdays and on other days is open between 10 am and 4 pm. Entry fee is NPR 100 for foreigners and NPR 50 for a camera.

The Old Pokhara Bazaar is a vibrant and historic marketplace showcasing the region’s cultural heritage. One can wander through narrow alleys lined with shops selling authentic Nepalese handicrafts, including handmade pottery, Tibetan rugs, traditional clothing, and intricately crafted jewelry and enjoy traditional Newari and Nepali cuisine at local eateries and street food stalls. The bazaar is known for its ancient Newari architecture with buildings featuring intricately carved wooden windows, brick facades, and pagoda-style rooftops, reflecting the traditional craftsmanship of the Newari community. The bazaar retains its historical charm, providing visitors a glimpse into the region’s past while coexisting with modern developments.

The preferable point to start exploring the bazaar is the Nepal Telecom Building. From here, head to the north-west, crossing some religious shops till they reach an intersection called Nala Mukh. This area is famous for the Newari Houses that are adorned with brickwork and bear beautifully carved wooden windows and doors. On proceeding further, one would reach Bhairab Tole which is one of Pokhara’s significant commercial centres. There is a 200-year-old temple dedicated to Lord Bhimsen here who is considered an important deity of the Newars. He is said to be the one who brings success in trade and commerce and is, therefore, worshipped with great devotion by the traders. A pit stop at this temple to admire its ancient architectural beauty is much advisable.

The region around the Bhimsen temple has some shops selling ceramics and baskets where tourists can spend some time shopping or just observing the authentic products on sale. A little ahead is a small hillock which is famous for another ancient temple, Bindhya Basini Temple. It is dedicated to Goddess Durga who is represented by a Shaligram instead of the usual imposing idol. The traditional two or three-storey buildings with brick and woodwork bearing intricate carvings that still stand tall in this part of the city sort of make the point that the charm of Old Pokhara is still alive and breathing.

The four official Tibetan settlement camps in the city is a small world in itself. These refugee camps were built for the thousands of Tibetan refugees that came to settle in Nepal after the Chinese takeover. They sell beautiful handmade jewellery, trinkets, carving and carpets for the visitors to showcase the beauties of Tibet. This is a popular place where tourists come to buy souvenirs.

Located next to Phewa Lake, Basundhara Park attracts tourists all year round. The park offers boat rides and fishing opportunities on the lake, and visitors can also rent boats and row across the lake on their own. Early morning joggers in the park can also spot birds in the Serene environment of the lake.

Seti River is famous for its deceptive river course and its milky white water. The water cuts a deep gorge right across the mighty Mahabharata range and then runs a deep chasm in the middle of the town. The gorge can be seen from a park in old pokhara close to the Gorkha Museum.

The Upper Seti River is one of Nepal’s best rafting destinations for families and water sports lovers. This river is a hidden gem with energising whitewater rapids of class 3 and 4, lush jungles, waterfalls, and native wildlife. Most rafting trips on the Seti are 90 minutes, priced about NPR 5,700. For whitewater rafting amidst Pokhara’s snow-capped mountains, head to Kali Gandaki River spanning Dhaulagiri and Annapurna Range.

Located on the scenic Sarangkot Mountain, Sarangkot is a village famous for its sunrise and sunset views of Annapurna and the takeoff site for paragliding. The village lies at an elevation of 1600 metres above sea level and is a perfect place to capture a mesmerizing view of the Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, the Manaslu Mountain Ranges and the valley of Pokhara. Located 5 km from Lakeside Pokhara, Sarangkot is also accessible by a trek of 1-1.5 hours. It is also famous for one of the world’s fastest ziplines and the site of an ancient fort connected by a few steps from the main village is a popular viewpoint. A trek along the ridge road that leads to the west of Sarangkot is much advisable to get more stunning views. The dense forestation is home to a variety of flora and fauna. The route, thus, is also famous for bird watching and rejuvenating nature walks.

Although Sarangkot is famous for its panoramic view of the majestic Himalayas, nature walks, treks and hikes through the village, it is also famous for paragliding. The town is located below the ridge, and one needs to climb the steps that lead to the top to witness the scenic mountains and head to the spot where all the paragliding activities takes place. Locals say there once was a fort at the location, hence the name Sarangkot.

Lukla
A small town in the Khumbu Pasang Lhamu rural municipality, Lukla lies in northeastern Nepal. Situated at 2,860 m above sea level, it is a popular place as a gateway for visitors to the Himalayas and Mount Everest, Although Lukla means the place with many goats and sheep, few are found in the area nowadays. Lukla village holds a small airport serving the region. From Lukla, travelers need two days to reach the village of Namche Bazaar, an altitude-acclimatisation stop for those continuing on. What was once a tiny farming community has now become a huge trekkers’ town, since the airport that Lukla houses is the region’s sole airport, and thus all trekkers who visit the region enter and exit from this town only.

The airport has a 527 m single asphalt runway, making it the shortest commercial runway in the world. A flight from Kathmandu to Lukla is just a 40-minute affair. How difficult can that possibly be? Well, those who have been on the flight have described it to be 40 minutes of mountain dodging, and the sensations being the same as that when experienced on a roller coaster. Tthe runway of the Lukla Airport is incredibly tiny, only 1729 feet long. Secondly, Lukla’s elevation with little descent further complicates matters. On one end of the runway is a cliff with the 2,000 feet drop, while the other end has a solid stone wall. This means that the plane will either land or drop off the cliff. In spite of all of this, Lukla is one of the busiest domestic airports in Nepal. Accidents happen rarely, and the airport is considered to be one of the most breathtaking airports in the entire world, with the mighty Himalayas surrounding it and the little flowers bordering the runway making for a picturesque scene.

The small town of Lukla is home to less than five hundred people, but it still houses a large number of trekkers each day. This is because the town is the most popular starting point to further go onto the Everest trekking route, be it for a two-week trek or for a forty day trek to the peak of the Everest.

Dharan
Located in southeastern Nepal, close to the border with India, Dharan is the third most populous city in this region. It is the gateway to the Mahabharat Hills and is one of the biggest pilgrimage locations in Nepal. This low-lying hilly region is extremely clean, colourful and culturally diverse, as well as a centre for football in Nepal, hence it being called a mini-Brazil.

Dharan was the capital town of the lowland Limbuwan kingdom of Morang, ruled by Limbu King Buddhi Karna Raya Khebang. King Buddhikarna Khebang was the descendant of the ruler King Muray Hang Khebang of Phedap Kingdom. Between 1584 and 1774, Dharan-Bijaypur was the capital city of Morang Kingdom of Limbuwan. It was also effective capital of the entire Limbuwan region or the Ten Limbu Kingdoms which was also known as Pallo Kirat . In August 1774, the Gorkha King Prithivi Narayan Shah’s representatives Abhiman Singh Basnet, Parath Bhandari, Kirti Singh Khawas and Bali Baniya met the ministers of Morang state and agreed to come to good terms with the Gorkha Kingdom and accept the Gorkhali king as Maharaja and that in return the kingdom of Gorkha would retain the right of self-government of Limbu rulers in their kingdoms.

The Budha Subba Temple is a famous religious shrine, mostly for the Eastern Nepalese. The establishment has many folk tales surrounding it, along with many superstitious beliefs. It is best known for being a peaceful location where people can wish for happiness and luck. Young couples in the region believe that tying a colourful string around their trunks and engraving their names on the trees would bring them happiness and long life together. The temple complex also has a couple of souvenir shops. The Buddha Subba Temple has a small car parking facility at the main entrance of the temple complex. The Budha Subba Temple is the tomb of Buddhi Karna Raya Rai, the last Limbu King of Morang; a Nepali district. Buddhi Karna Raya Rai was assassinated by the people working under King Prithvi Narayan Shah, who was at the time the king of Nepal. Shah tricked Buddhi Karna Raya Rai into coming to Bijaypur-Dharan, which was the capital of Morang and the politico-economic centre of East Nepal, under the guise of a negotiation. The folklore surrounding the location says that his spirit still wanders around the tomb and is said to be a friendly and helpful spirit. The Limbu folk even worshipped his soul as it was believed to bring good luck.

The Pindeshwor Temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and is located in the central region of Dharan, at the base of the Vijayapur Hill. During the auspicious month of Shravan, around the end of July, and on the occasion of Maha Shivratri, the temple particularly witnesses an increase in the number of devotees. The lamp at this temple is always kept burning.

The Dantakali Temple was built in the honour of Goddess Parvati. It is located in Bijayapur village about 3 km from the centre of Dharan. The attraction is also considered to be a significant Shakti Peeth. This temple mainly attracts devotees on the occasion of Dashain, which is an auspicious Hindu festival that celebrates the victory of good over evil. According to a legend, after the passing of Goddess Parvati, Lord Shiva carried her dead body on his shoulder and roamed for days. Decayed parts of the goddess’ carcass fell at several locations. This location, where the Dantakali Temple is built, is believed to house the sacred teeth of Goddess Parvati. Hence the name, Dantakali wherein ‘danta’ means teeth and ‘kali’ signifies the Goddess.

The Pathivara Temple, also known as Mukkumlung, is said to be one of the most significant Hindu temples in Nepal. Situated on the Taplejung hills, the temple offers scenic views of the Mount Kanchenjunga. The members of the Nepal royal family are said to be ardent devotees of the Goddess and come here often to pay their respects. Dedicated to Pathivara Devi, also known as AdiKali, Maha Maya, Maha Rudri among many other divine forms, the Pathivara temple is considered to be one of the holiest temples. Believed to possess supernatural powers, Pathivara Devi is said to fulfil dreams and wishes of devotees. Pathivara, the hill goddess, is believed to be a fierce goddess easily pleased with selfless and straightforward acts of prayer and sacrificial offerings which is the sacrifice of one’s ego and greed. According to local legend, a few local shepherds were moving their sheep when they lost hundreds while grazing where the temple stands today. One day, the shepherds dreamt Pathivara Devi ordering them to carry out the ritualistic sacrifice of a sheep. When the sacrifice was offered, all of a sudden, the lost sheep returned to the temple. Since then, the ritual of offering sacrifices have been significant in this temple.

Dharan Clock Tower is a popular tourist attraction built in 1991. Its design closely resembles the Clock Tower of Hong Kong. Locally known as Ghantagha, the clock tower is located in Bhanuchowk and measures approximately 76 feet in height. It stands over a 55 feet tall pedestal which makes it seem even more taller. People visit this Clock Tower for its stunning appearance, architecture and the fabulous view of the city from the top.

Namaste Falls is a popular attraction located in Bhedetar village about 23 km from the city. The Waterfall is mainly known for the namaste it forms as it cascades down the slopes of a rocky hill at the height of 80 metres. The area is quite remote and thus, uninhabited, but offers jaw dropping views of the surroundings. The falls are recognised as a plunge waterfall and is known for the most number of rainbow sightings. Reaching Namaste Falls requires trekking a distance 2 kilometres or so from Bhedetar.

Namje Bazar or Namche Bazar is famous for its weekly market and lodging amidst scenic surroundings and lies at an altitude of over 3500 m. Several major trekking trails pass through the Bazar and is considered as an excellent acclimatisation point. Those heading to the Everest Base Camp often make a pitstop here. The weekly market that makes it a great attraction for tourists is the Tibetan Market, which is operational only on Saturdays.

Keep watching this space for more Nepal towns to explore…

Travel Bucket List: Nepal Part 11

Posted on March 21, 2025 by memoriesandsuch

Continuing on learning more about Pokhara…

Situated at an altitude of 3210 m, Poon Hill is a popular short trekking destination, offering an wonderful views of sunrises and sunsets. Most trekkers hike here from the village of Ghorepani to enjoy the spectacular view of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges. The terrain is comparatively easier and leads to the Annapurna Mountain Ranges. The trekking trail covered with rhododendron forest, an amazing landscape, is perfect for modest trekkers. From the top of the hill, one can get a fabulous view of the Gangapurna, Annapurna I, Annapurna South, the Dhaulagiri, and the Hiunchuli Mountains.

The most preferred and famous trek in the region is the Ghorepani-Poon Hill-Ghandruk trek. It begins at Nayapul which is about 44 kilometres away from Pokhara and goes through Ulleri, Ghorepani and Ghandruk via the uneven terrain. The mountainous trails are traversed by foot through the rhododendron forests and regions inhabited by the Gurangs and the Magars. As the trek progresses, one would come across the terraces used for cultivating rice and the enchanting waterfalls in the regions. The hilltop, at 3210 metres above sea level, is the best place to get a stunning view of the Himalayan Peaks. If only Poon hill is to be explored, one can be assured that this is an easy level of trekking in the region. The best time to go on a trek on the Poon Hill is between March and May and between September and November.

At an elevation of 3210 metres above sea level, Ghorepani Hill is the most preferred trekking trail in Nepal. Also known as Nepal’s classic Himalaya Trek, it has been an important attraction with slightly elaborate treks that last for little over a week and begin at Pokhara and pass through Ghorepani, and some even continue to the Poon Hill. The trail consists of the ancient Trans-Himalayan salt trade route and runs through regions of paddy fields, forests, gorges and waterfalls. On a clear sunny day, the bright blue skies and the white cotton-like clouds are a treat to watch above the snow-laden mountain peaks. Local shepherds get their sheep to graze on the hill slopes every day, and there is a high chance that trekkers meet herds of sheep while passing by.

The rhododendron forests, the stone passages and stairs add to the level of difficulty but also make the activity more exciting. As one climbs through the region, they would notice they are actually trekking through the villages located on the hill slopes. If a break is required, feel free to stop by at one of these villages and interact with the lovely people before enjoying the mind-stirring view from the top of the Ghorepani Hill.

The city of Pokhara can be divided in two: the charming Lakeside Pokhara, and the Old City. The Lakeside part offers many tourist attractions and beautiful views, while the Old City is the city’s commercial hub. The Lakeside is further divided into the North and the Southside and is is named as it surrounds the Phewa Lake or Phewa Tal, a gorgeous freshwater lake which is eerily similar to a mirror! The lake gained popularity for its breathtaking reflection of the blue skies and the towering Mt. Machhapuchhre of the Annapurna range.

Built after World War II by Buddhist monks from the Nipponzan Myohoji organisation of Japan, the towering World Peace Pagoda stands on a ledge overlooking Phewa Lake. This destination can be reached by rowing on the Phewa Tal, and trekking for about an hour on the other side. The views are breathtakingly beautiful, and the serenity is bound to make one contemplate and meditate. Revered as the holiest Hindu shrine in Pokhara, the beautiful Varahi Mandir temple is located right in the middle of Phewa Lake, on a small island. One can access the temple by rowboat from Varahi Ghat and pay their respects to the fierce Varahi, who is known to grant all wishes. The Devi’s Falls is a special waterfall because half of it is underground. On the surface, it is a small stream which swells during the monsoon, but the water leads into an underground tunnel, surfacing at the Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave near the World Peace Pagoda. Patale Chhango is the actual name of this waterfall, but it is locally known as Devi’s Falls. Head over there and discover the local lore of how the waterfall got its name!

The Gurkha Museum, located near Mahendra Pul, chronicles the valiant achievements of the Gurkha regiment and has an interactive display as well. The AV show details the nuances of the regiment, and the exhibits contain many medals, artefacts and weapons used. There is also a wall of fame, naming prominent Gurkha soldiers. The museum is open daily from 8:30 am to 4:30 pm and foreigners need to pay NPR 200, while SAARC citizens pay NPR 100 and a camera can cost you NPR 20 to take inside. The International Mountain Museum is devoted to the Himalayas and her explorers. Containing the mountain scaling equipment of yore, champion trekkers and other exciting details, the museum also holds exhibits of the unique flora and fauna of the Himalayas. Outside, visitoes can try their luck at mountain climbing, by trying to scale a replica of Mt Manaslu. The museum is open from 9 am to 5 pm and foreigners need to pay NPR 400, while SAARC citizens pay NPR 200 and Nepalis need to pay NPR 80. A garden tour will set one back by NPR 20.

Pokhara is one of the most popular paragliding destinations in the world. One can take off at Sarangkot, near Lakeside where one can find most paragliding companies with very competitive prices. Solo and tandem flights can be taken all year round in conducive weather. Cost for a solo flight is USD 65 while a tandem flight will cost between USD 85 to USD 150 and lessons can be taken at USD 390.

As Lakeside Pokhara is the starting point for trekkers attempting to scale the Annapurna range, this is a welcome opportunity to meet like-minded people and trek with them. October to December is the best time to trek the Annapurna Circuit, which is a famous route. A minimum of three days is required to cover at least a part of this route – ideally, it takes 21 days to complete. One will need to have a permit card from the Annapurna Conservation Area Project, which costs NPR 2000, before one can attempt this route. Guided tours start from USD 25.

There are two rivers one can raft on near Lakeside, which are the Seti and Narayani. Many agencies near the rivers offer kayaking options, starting at USD 40 for a single trip. One can take a kayak from the Narayani River all the way to Chitwan National Park and most agencies rent all kayaking equipment for a price. One can also hire a Doonga, a brightly painted boat, to take them around the picturesque Phewa Lake.

Pokhara Valley’s second largest lake, Begnas Lake is a popular freshwater lake with beautiful natural surroundings. On a clear day, at the foothills of the Himalayas, the lake waters reflect the surrounding mountain ranges. One may choose to take a leisurely stroll on the banks or rest. The lake is also the third-largest lake in Nepal. Begnas, the twin of Rupa Tal, is the largest of the two situated to the south-east of the valley. A dam, Khudi Khola, built on the western stream regulates the level of the lake water providing enough for irrigation purposes in all the seasons other than the monsoons. The swamps around the lake have been converted into lush green paddy fields, and some sections of the water body are used for fish farming. The waters from the lake help the locals earn a major chunk of their livelihood. One may go for a long boat ride or go paddling solo in the calm waters. The lake has several resorts and guesthouses where tourists can stay for as long as they want and breathe in the freshness in the air and enjoy the stunning view of the valley and the Begnas Tal.

Rupa Tal is the only freshwater lake of Nepal and is located at an altitude of 600 m. The beautiful lake is famous for the variety of flora and fauna that it supports and has boating facilities available. One can even engage in fishing activities.

The second largest lake in Nepal, Phewa Lake is a semi-natural freshwater lake enveloped by Rani Ban or the Queen’s Forest and stunning reflections of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri mountain ranges in the clear lake waters. It is also a perfect place to experience the ever so glorious Himalayan sunrises. One can hire a colourful boat called doonga and sail through the lake for a relaxing ride. It has some religious significance too as it is known for the sacred Tal Barahi Temple located on an island in the lake. Baidam or lakeside of Pokhara on the eastern part has some amazing lodges, restaurants, cafes and bookshops. The densely forested region around the lake has thrilling trails that lead up to higher grounds.

Phewa Lake is flocked by tourists, nature lovers and photographers. One may choose to rent a canoe or a paddleboat for NPR 500 approximately to explore and capture the scenic beauty to their heart’s content as they sail through the serene waters. When tired, a stop at the Tal Barahi Temple just to absorb the divine vibe or to offer prayers to the Goddess before setting sail ahead is quite recommended. There are also exciting trails in the thick forests surrounding the Lake that make it a perfect destination for nature walks, bird watching and treks. The forests house a variety of flora and fauna that one can explore while they rest on the shore in between their boat rides. One of these trails leads up to the World Peace Pagoda from where one can enjoy a splendid view of the lake and the mountain ranges. If the natural light is right, one may even see the reflection of the mountain peaks in the water.

The Tal Barahi Temple is located in the middle of Phewa Lake surrounded by nature and tranquillity. It is a sacred shrine dedicated to Goddess Durga who is considered to be the protector of all Gods and a symbol of Shakti/Strength. Barahi means Boar, an avatar which Goddess Durga manifested, also called Ajima, to kill the demons with her tusks. According to a legend, the deity came to visit the place and was so captivated by its natural beauty and the people that she decided to reside here. The temple was built in 1864 by the first Shah King of Kaski, King Kulmandhan Shah, who was an ardent devotee of Goddess Durga. The beautiful shrine has two-storey traditional pagoda-style architecture made of stone and wood and stands strong on an island in the lake which was formed after the dam was built. The temple is open daily between 9 am and 5 pm and the best time to visit the temple is between September and May.

Davis’ Fall is an extraordinary waterfall which creates a 500 feet long underground tunnel as it reaches its bottom. This tunnel has brought the fall its name, Patale Chango in the Nepalese language, which means underground waterfall. Fed by the Phewa Lake Dam, the waterfall is surrounded by abundant flora. A landmark of Pokhara, Devi’s waterfall is a must-visit when in Nepal. The fall marks the point where the Pardi Khola stream disappears underground and leaves no clue of its existence. When the monsoons are at full power, the splashes of water against the boulders create a terrific sight.

On July 31, 1961, a Swiss couple named Davis made their visit here. While swimming in its waters, the overflow pushed the woman in a sinkhole where she drowned. Her body was recovered after three days. It was at her father’s request that the fall was named Davi’s Fall. Some people even say that it was not only the woman who drowned but also her husband. The fall got a local reference by the name of Devi’s Falls, hence the name by which it is mostly known.

As the name suggests, Gupteshwor Mahadev is a the name suggests is a a cave beneath the ground that acts as the source via which the fall’s water passes after exiting the tunnel. The ancient cave beside the fall is known for its unique designs. People tend to forget the way through which they enter; hence, one should be careful and use one’s presence of mind while in the cave. Visitors usually try impressing their fortune by throwing or placing a coin at the deity’s statue in the luck pond. Devil’s Fall is open daily from 5 am to 7 pm.

Shanti Stupa, also known as the Peace Pagoda, is a stunning monument located on the Anadu Hill overlooking the Phewa Lake with the charming Annapurna Mountain range in the backdrop. One can either cycle through one of the tracks that lead to the top of the hill, take the road to the Stupa, or enjoy a drive through the scenic location. The surroundings have several trekking trails to cross to Phewa Lake and explore the Himalayas. It is a popular tourist attraction, striking landmark, or pleasant pit stop for intrepid climbers. The picturesque beauty is quite captivating, and the tranquil vibe of the monument is worth a visit for those seeking it.

The pristine white coloured monument is a classic example of the traditional pagoda style of architecture. The striking colour helps in spotting the pagoda from metres away. This is the first peace pagoda in Nepal and was built by a Nipponzan Myohoji monk named Morioko Sonin. The spectacular symbol of peace is the 71st peace pagoda in the world standing 115 feet tall and having a diameter of 344 feet. Visitors need to climb a flight of stairs to reach the top of the monument. There are two tiers to the structure with separate passages to circumambulate. It houses relics and four striking statues of Lord Buddha that represent significant events in his life. These statues were received as souvenirs from different countries.

The four striking statues of Gautama Buddha representing important milestones in Lord Buddha’s life are installed on the second tier of Shanti Stupa. These four figures gifted by four countries include the Dharmachakra Mudra which was gifted by Japan, Kushinagar from Thailand, Bodh Gaya from Sri Lanka and Lumbini from Nepal. On the very top of this arrangement is the pinnacle, also called gajur, that holds the crystal stone from Sri Lanka. This stone symbolises grace and intellect. Below the gajur is the Dharmachakra signifying the wheel of life, the teachings of Lord Buddha and Dharma. A prayer hall called the Dhamma Hall is located near the Shanti Stupa that houses the statues of Lord Buddha and where rituals and poojas are performed on auspicious days by the devotees. One may choose to explore this section of the Pagoda to get a glimpse into the regional culture. The stupa can be visited daily between 8 am and 8 pm.

The ancient Bindhyabasini Temple stands on top of a small hill. This temple is dedicated to Goddess Durga, an incarnation of Devi Parvati. The Goddess worshipped is in the form of a Shaligram. According to a local legend, King Siddhi Narayan Shah bought the idol from Bindhyachal in India. The Gopteshwar Mahadev Mandir is a cave temple dedicated to Lord Shiva near the place where Seti River emerges from underground. A self-emerging Shiva Lingam was found in the 3 km long cave during the 16th century. Apart from the temple, the long, deep and dark cave offer an excellent opportunity to explore the natural wonders in its truest form. The 200-year-old Bhimsen Temple is dedicated to the Newari God of trade and commerce. It is said to be the oldest temple in the city and it replicates the pagoda style of architecture. The exterior of the temple is covered with intricate erotic carvings and exquisite woodcarvings on doors, windows, pillars and struts.

The Tal Barahi Temple, also known as Lake Temple or Varahi Temple, is a two-story pagoda temple on a small island on Phewa Lake. Dedicated to Goddess Varahi, who is an incarnation of Goddess Durga, both Hindu and Buddhist followers visit here for worship. It is believed that the temple was built by King Kulmandhan Shah because of a dream that he saw. Goddess Varahi is an avatar of Goddess Durga who is believed to be the symbol of strength or Shakti. Varahi or Barahi means a boar in Nepali and it is the form which was taken by Goddess Durga to kill the destructive demons. She is believed to have fought the mighty demons with her tusks and killed them all. After the fight, she is believed to have visited the Pokhara Valley and found it so enticing that she wanted to stay there. Ever since, this powerful form of Goddess Durga has been an important deity for the Hindu community in Nepal. Locals also state that the temple was in fact, built by an ardent worshipper of Goddess Varahi, King Kulmandhan Shah of the Shah Dynasty. It was made during his resign in 1864, and he chose the spot on an island in the middle of Phewa Lake for the temple to be built. The island was actually formed after the inflow of water to Phewa Lake was controlled by a dam built nearby. The main shrine set has traditional pagoda-type architecture, mostly made of wood, bricks, and stone, and has a premise large enough to accommodate a number of devotees. The premise also has decent seats where one can sit for a moment before returning to the city. When visiting Phewa Lake, sailing to the island and exploring the temple are highly recommended. Shree Gaden Dhargay Ling Monastery is a Tibetan Buddhist Monastery established to spread Buddhist teachings and Tibetan influence in the country.

Next week, we continue exploring Nepal’s tourism city

Memories and Such

Memories of a very ordinary life

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