Poem: Wings of Wanderlust

Posted on May 7, 2025 by memoriesandsuch

Travel is more than just a journey; it is a feeling, a rush of excitement, and a gateway to new adventures. When plans are made, the heart begins to race with anticipation. The thrill of discovering unfamiliar landscapes, tasting new cuisines, and immersing in unknown cultures fills every step with wonder. A holiday is not just an escape; it’s an opportunity to embrace the world’s endless possibilities.

Wings of Wanderlust

The suitcase lies open, a promise untold,
Of adventures ahead, both thrilling and bold.
Maps unfold and dreams take flight,
The heart beats faster with wanderlust’s light.

The countdown begins, excitement takes hold,
A new place awaits its stories of old.
What sights will I see? What paths will I tread?
What colours and flavours will dance in my head?

The airport hums with its vibrant sound,
A gateway to wonders, the world unbound.
Each boarding pass holds a treasure in store,
A chance to discover, to learn, to explore.

The mountains call with their towering grace,
The ocean’s whisper of an endless embrace.
The streets of a city, alive and unknown,
Each step is a story, each corner my own.

I’ll taste the spices, hear songs from afar,
Chase sunsets that shimmer like a guiding star.
Feel cultures unfold in the warmth of a smile,
Find a home in the world, if just for a while.

Oh, the joy of travel, the freedom it brings,
The soul takes flight on its wandering wings.
For every journey writes a tale that stays,
A cherished memory for endless days.

Travel Bucket List: Nepal – Part 17

Posted on May 2, 2025 by memoriesandsuch

Shivpuri National Park
Established in 2002, Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park is Nepal’s ninth national park, located in Nepal and was established in 2002. It is located in the country’s mid-hills on the northern fringe of the Kathmandu Valley and named after Shivapuri Peak at 2,732 m. It covers an area of 159 sq km.

The area has always been an important water catchment area, supplying the Kathmandu Valley with several hundred thousand cubic litres of water daily. In 1976, the area was established as a protected watershed and wildlife reserve. In 2002, it was gazetted as Shivapuri National Park, initially covering 144 sq km and in 2009 was extended by the Nagarjun Forest Reserve covering 15 sq km. The park includes some historical and religious sites, and a popular hiking route. The park is located in a transition zone between subtropical and temperate climates.

Nestled within the national park is the Tibetan nunnery called Nagi Gumpha with stunning views of the valleys below. The trek through the national park will take one through dark green forests. Mostly a cool, shaded trek, the sunlight occasionally makes its way through the canopy of broad-leaved oak trees and creates limelight on the ground. For those who love mountain biking, there are routes for them as well. Bikes can be hired from the towns downhill, no matter which route one follows.

The national park is open daily from 7 am to 5 pm. Entry fees are NPR 50 for Nepali citizens, NPR 300 for SAARC citizens, and NPR 500 for others. Those travelling in a motorbike need to pay NPR 30, while a minibus, bus or truck will cost NPR 500, and a car, jeep, taxi, or van will set one back by NPR 300. For Nepalis, the cost of a mountain bike is NPR 100, while for foreigners, it is NPR 1000.

Chitwan National Park
Nepal’s first national park, Chitwan National Park was established in 1973 as the Royal Chitwan National Park and was granted the status of a World Heritage Site in 1984. It covers an area of 952.63 sq km in the subtropical Inner Terai lowlands of south-central Nepal in Nawalpur, Chitwan, Makwanpur and Parsa districts. It ranges in elevation from about 100 m in the river valleys to 815 m in the Sivalik Hills.

In the north and west of the protected area, the Narayani-Rapti river system forms a natural boundary to human settlements. Adjacent to the east of Chitwan National Park is Parsa National Park, contiguous in the south is the Indian Tiger Reserve Valmiki National Park. The coherent protected area of 2,075 sq km represents the Tiger Conservation Unit (TCU) Chitwan-Parsa-Valmiki, which covers a 3,549 sq km huge block of alluvial grasslands and subtropical moist deciduous forests.

Apart from its biodiversity, Chitwan National Park provides a unique opportunity for cultural exploration. The indigenous Tharu community, residing harmoniously for centuries, shares their traditions and lifestyle through cultural performances, showcasing their music, dance, and art. The convergence of natural wonders and cultural richness makes Chitwan a captivating destination, offering an unparalleled glimpse into Nepal’s heritage and wildlife conservation efforts. Easily accessible via road from Kathmandu or Pokhara, Chitwan National Park remains a cherished destination, drawing global travellers with its captivating blend of nature, conservation, and cultural richness.

There are seven entrance gates to the park. Located near Sauraha, the Sauraha Gate offers entry to the eastern section of the park and is one of the primary entry points for visitors. Situated near the village of Meghauli, the Meghauli Gate provides access to the western part of the park and is ideal for visitors staying in nearby lodges or resorts. Serving as the headquarters of the park, Kasara Gate offers entry to the central region and houses park administrative offices and visitor facilities. Situated in the eastern section of the park, the Kalika Gate serves as another access point for visitors exploring this part of Chitwan. Positioned in the northern section of the park, Lothar Gate allows entry to the northern areas and offers access to distinct wildlife habitats. Located on the park’s northeastern side, Khoria Gate provides access to areas close to the convergence of the Narayani and Rapti rivers. Positioned northeast of the park, Kumroj Gate offers entry to parts near the Kumroj Community Forest.

Since the end of the 19th century, Chitwan used to be a favourite hunting ground for Nepal’s ruling class during the cool winter seasons. Until the 1950s, the journey from Kathmandu to Nepal’s south was arduous as the area could only be reached by foot and took several weeks. Comfortable camps were set up for the feudal big game hunters and their entourage, where they stayed for a couple of months shooting hundreds of tigers, rhinoceroses, elephants, leopards and sloth bears. In 1950, Chitwan’s forest and grasslands extended over more than 2,600 sq km and were home to about 800 rhinos. When poor farmers from the mid-hills moved to the Chitwan Valley in search of arable land, the area was subsequently opened for settlement, and poaching of wildlife became rampant. In 1957, the country’s first conservation law ensured the protection of rhinos and their habitat. Research on Chitwan was conducted by Edward Pritchard Gee between 1959 and 1963.

By the end of the 1960s, 70% of Chitwan’s jungles had been cleared, malaria eradicated using DDT, thousands of people had settled there, and only 95 rhinos remained. The dramatic decline of the rhino population and the extent of poaching prompted the government to institute the Gaida Gasti – a rhino reconnaissance patrol of 130 armed men and a network of guard posts all over Chitwan. To prevent the extinction of rhinos, the Chitwan National Park was gazetted in December 1970, with borders delineated the following year and established in 1973, initially encompassing an area of 544 sq km. In 1977, the park was enlarged to its present area of 952.63 sq km. In 1997, a buffer zone of 766.1 sq km was added to the north and west of the Narayani-Rapti river system, and between the south-eastern boundary of the park and the international border to India.

Jeep safaris in Chitwan National Park provide a thrilling opportunity to explore the wilderness and witness diverse wildlife. It is available twice a day, early morning and late afternoon. Early morning safari is the best time to spot Bengal Tigers and Rhinoceros. The most popular safari route is the Narayani River Route. Experienced guides lead the safari, offering insights into the park’s flora and fauna. Visitors have the chance to spot rhinoceros, deer, monkeys, and various bird species. The elephant-back ride offer a unique way to traverse the park’s terrain and observe wildlife from a different perspective. It generally last for about 1-2 hours, guided by trained mahouts or elephant handlers. Riding atop elephants, visitors can explore deeper into the jungle, increasing the chances of spotting larger animals like rhinos, sloth bears, and even tigers if lucky.

Canoe trips along the Rapti or Narayani River allow visitors to witness aquatic wildlife and birds. Canoe rides usually span 1-2 hours, led by experienced guides. Traveling silently along the river, visitors can spot crocodiles, waterfowl, and other river-dwelling creatures, offering a serene and picturesque experience. Nature walks in Chitwan National Park are guided tours led by experienced naturalists or park guides. Typically last from 1 to 3 hours, allowing visitors to explore specific trails within the park. Led by knowledgeable guides, nature walks offer close encounters with smaller wildlife, insects, and diverse plant species. Guides share insights into the park’s flora, fauna, medicinal plants, and their ecological significance. Visitors learn about animal tracks, bird calls, and the intricate balance of the park’s ecosystems.

Chitwan is a paradise for birdwatchers, home to over 550 bird species, both resident and migratory. The duration varies based on visitors’ preferences, but birdwatching can span from early mornings to late afternoons. Visitors can spot a diverse range of birds, including kingfishers, hornbills, woodpeckers, peafowl, and endangered species like Bengal florican and great hornbill. Cultural visits involve engaging with the indigenous Tharu community, known for their distinct culture, traditions, and lifestyle. Guided tours to Tharu villages offer insights into their daily life, agriculture, craftsmanship, and unique architectural styles. Explore local houses, learn about their customs, and interact with villagers to understand their traditions and practices.

It would be really unfair to come to Chitwan National Park and not visit the village of Tharus, the original residents of this place. The village can be explored on foot or one can go the traditional way and take the famous ox-cart ride. One should take a guide along to explain the nuances of everyday Tharu lives, their past and present and their culture. The Tharu Cultural Museum serves the community and houses the evolution of the Tharu people from the olden days to the present, a tale told through old and new photographs, documents, weapons, potteries and other things they have used over the years. There are handicraft shops outside, from where one can buy small souvenirs to remember the lovely trip.

The shared jeep safari runs from 12:30 to 5:30 pm with rest timing changing with season and availability of vehicles. Private jeep safari timings are between 6 am and 6 pm. The elephant safari happens in the morning, mid-morning, and evening and is for 90 minutes. Canoeing can be done from 7:30 to 9:30 am while the elephant breeding centre is open from 6 am to 6 pm. The safari can be booked from any local tour operator, the park’s headquarters in Sauraha, or one’s hotel. The cost of the safari varies depending on the duration and number of participants. It is inaccessible in monsoon between June and September and during this time only the buffer zone is open to visit. Washroom facilities are available at the Gharial Breeding Conservation Centre

Entry fees to the park is 2000 NPR for foreigners, 150 NPR for locals, 1000 NPR for SAARC citizens and free for children below the age of 10. The Jeep Safari costs 2500 NPR per person for the shared jeep safari and NPR 4000 per person for a full-day safari. The elephant safari for two people costs NPR 2500 per elephant for foreigners, NPR 200 for locals and NPR 1000 for SAARC citizens. The Elephant Breeding Center entry fee is NPR 100 for foreigners, NPR 25 for locals, and NPR 50 for SAARC passport holders. If one is interested in bathing elephants, it will be NPR 200 per person. A half-day canoe ride will cost NPR 1400 while the full-day canoe ride will set one back by NPR 1800 per person.

Sagarmatha National Park
Established in 1976, Sagarmatha National Park is located in eastern Nepal and encompasses an area of 1,148 sq km. It ranges in elevation from 2,845 to 8,848 m and includes Mount Everest. In the north, it shares the international border with Qomolangma National Nature Preserve in Tibet Autonomous Region. In the east, it is adjacent to Makalu Barun National Park, and in the south it extends to the Dudh Kosi River and is part of the Sacred Himalayan Landscape.

The UNESCO World Heritage Site has other important peaks apart from Mount Everest like Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Pumori, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Kwangde, Kangtaiga and Gyachyung Kang. It is also a preservation site for rare species of animals and birds, like the red panda and snow leopard. The wildlife sanctuary stretches over 1100 sq km and is recognised as an eminent bird sanctuary by Bird Life International, making it a highly important tourist attraction for people who enjoy mountaineering and bird watching. Sagarmatha National Park became the country’s first national park that was inscribed as a Natural World Heritage Site in 1979. In January 2002, a Buffer Zone comprising 275 sq km was added.

The park contains the upper catchment areas of the Dudh Kosi and Bhotekoshi rivers and the Gokyo Lakes. It ranges in elevation from 2,845 m at Monjo to the top of Mount Everest at 8,848 m. Barren land above 5,000 m comprises 69% of the park while 28% is grazing land and the remaining 3% is forested. Climatic zones span from temperate and subalpine above 3,000 m to alpine above 4,000 m, which is the upper limit of vegetation growth. The nival zone begins at 5,000 m.

Visitors can indulge in various outdoor activities apart from sightseeing and enjoying the scenic beauty of the National Park. One of the most popular routes to trek along is the Everest Base Camp where tourists can visit the various landmarks within the Park while also enjoying the culturally rich Sherpa villages along the way. The trek lasts for 9-12 days and needs special permissions. Otherwise, there are plenty of other trails that are loved by most trek enthusiasts, which is usually guided by local Sherpas. Mount Taboche is a 6500 m high peak and is a scenic spot that tourists hike up to through Khumbu Valley amongst the Himalayas. The highest point on the Everest Base Camp trek is Kala Patthar, which isn’t classified as a mountain but the peak offers a spectacular view of the sunrise and a close look at the Mount Everest. Another peak on the same trail is Mount Ama Dablam, which translates to “mother’s necklace” in the local language, and has a particular structure which makes it stand out from the other peaks, and is usually hiked up by those who are trained as hikers and have technical equipment for the same. Khumjung Village is located at a height of 4000 m near Mount Khumbila and is known for the Scott Fischer memorial and the school that was built in 1961 by Sir Edmund Hillary’s Himalayan Trust.

Mount Manaslu
Also known as Kutang Kutan I in Tibetan, the meaning of which is a flat place, Mount Manaslu is the eighth-highest mountain in the world at 8,163 m above sea level. It is in the Mansiri Himal, part of the Nepalese Himalayas, in west-central Nepal. Manaslu means “mountain of the spirit” and the word is derived from the Sanskrit word manasa, meaning “intellect” or “soul”. Set in the northern Himalayan range, Manaslu is a serrated “wall of snow and ice hanging in the sky”. The three sides of the mountain fall in steps to terraces down below, which are sparsely inhabited with agricultural operations practised on the land. Apart from climbing Manaslu, trekking is popular in this mountain region, as part of the Manaslu Circuit, a notable path for trekkers in Nepal. A glacial saddle known as Larkya La, with an elevation of 5,106 m lies north of Manaslu and is bounded on the east by the Ganesh Himal and the Buri Gandaki River gorge, on the west by the deep fissures of the Marysyangdi Khola with its Annapurna range of hills, and to the south is the Gorkha town at the foot of the hill. There are six established trek routes to the peak, and the south face is reportedly the most difficult for climbing.

The Manaslu region offers a variety of trekking options. The popular Manaslu trekking route of 177 km skirts the Manaslu massif over the pass down to Annapurna. The Nepalese Government only permitted trekking on this circuit in 1991. The trekking trail follows an ancient salt-trading route along the Budhi Gandaki River. The trek requires a Manaslu Restricted Area Permit and a Manaslu Conservation Area Permit. The restricted area permit costs USD 100 per week in autumn and USD 70 per week in other seasons, whereas the conservation area permit costs USD 30 all year round. Trekkers are required to travel in a group of at least two persons with a registered guide. The trek lies on the newly developed Great Himalayan Trail. En route, 10 peaks over 6,500 m are visible, including a few over 7,000 m. The trekking route is through mountainous terrain prone to the consequences of monsoon rainfall, landslides, and landfalls. Hypothermia and altitude sickness, as well as encounters with passing yaks, are common. Trekking to Manaslu is thus a test of endurance. The highest point reached along the trek route is Larkya La at an elevation of 5,106 m. The Manaslu Conservation Area Project (MCAP) was established in 1997 with the primary objective of achieving conservation and sustainable management of the delimited area, which also includes Manaslu.

There are two ethnicities mainly inhabiting this region; Nubri and Tsum. The branching off of the river at Chhikur divides these two ethnic domains. While Nubri has been frequently visited since Nepal opened itself for tourism in 1950, Tsum still retains much of its traditional culture, art, and tradition. In the central hills of the region, Gurungs are the main ethnic group who have joined the Gurkha regiments in large numbers. Closer to Tibet, the Bhutias, also spelled Bhotias, akin to the Sherpa group, of Tibetan ethnicity dominate the scene with their flat-roofed houses, and are Buddhists. The region is dotted with austere monasteries, mani walls, chortens and other Buddhist religious landmarks.

The best season to hike the circuit is spring between March and May, just before the monsoon season begins. During this period, one can expect dry trails, stable weather, excellent visibility, and long trekking days. Similarly, autumn between September and November is another good season for the circuit, following the monsoon season.

Nepal has always been on my travel bucket list because of its proximity to India and the fact that it is mostly Hindu. I remember my grandparents visiting Kathmandu and the Pashupathinath temple in the late seventies, and after hearing stories about the country, I have always wanted to visit it. Now, after finishing this series, I want to visit the mystical country in the lap of the Himalayas more than ever.

In My Hands Today…

Posted on April 26, 2025 by memoriesandsuch

Unlost: A journey of self-discovery and the healing power of the wild outdoors – Gail Muller

Gail Muller was told she’d be in a wheelchair by the age of forty. At forty-one she set out to hike one of the world’s toughest treks, The Appalachian Trail – a 2,200-mile journey that would help her reclaim her life and heal her mind and body. An inspiring, moving and uplifting memoir for fans of Cheryl Strayed’s Wild and Elizabeth Gilbert’s Eat, Pray, Love.

As Gail took her first steps through the wilderness of the USA, she had no idea what lay ahead of her, but she knew she felt burnout from city life, lost and broken – ready to heal a mind and body that she had battled with for so long.

From the resilience-building mountain climbs, painful injuries and harsh reality of braving the raw elements, to the unexpected friendships forged with other hikers and the kindness of strangers offering food and shelter – with every step, Gail started to let go of a past dominated by chronic pain and reconnected with herself in a way she’d never been able to before.

A love letter to the healing power of the wild outdoors and an incredible testament to the strength of the human spirit, Gail’s story is for anyone who has ever felt stuck in a rut, lost or scared. She shows us that even in our darkest times, it’s possible to find our inner grit, face our fears and feel hopeful.

Travel Bucket List: Nepal – Part 16

Posted on April 25, 2025 by memoriesandsuch

Jomsom
Also known as Dzongsam or the new fort, Jomsom is the centre of the Gharapjhong rural municipality in Mustang district and a former independent village development committee situated at an altitude of about 2,700 m in western Nepal. The soaring peaks of Dhaulagiri and Nilgiri form a backdrop to the town straddling the Kali Gandaki River, which flows right through the centre of Jomsom. Along the banks of the Kali Gandaki, black fossilised stones called shaligram, considered a symbol and reminder of Lord Vishnu can be found. Such stones are believed to be found only in the Kali Gandaki, and are considered holy by Hindus. The town is also the main hub for onward travel to Upper Mustang and Muktinath.

Jomsom lies to the north of Pokhara and is the main gateway to Upper Mustang. The trail passing through Jomsom follows the Kali Gandaki River which forms the deepest ravine in the world; on one side lies the Annapurna mountain range and on the other side is Dhaulagiri. The river freezes during winter and flows with rainwater and melting snow in summer and monsoon. With its diverse landscape, the area around Jomsom has the scenery of rocky cliffs and high peaks of the Himalayas without much presence of greenery, with the exception being forests of bright rhododendrons. The culture in Jomsom is a rich combination of Hinduism and Tibetan Buddhism.

The houses in Jomsom are designed to protect the inhabitants from the strong winds that blow in the valley every day from late morning onwards. These winds are caused by the differences in atmospheric pressure between the Tibetan plateau and the lower reaches of the valley. The best example of the unique architecture of this region is found in the village of Marpha which is a two-hour walk down from Jomsom, where one can find stone-flagged streets with an efficient underground drainage system and flat-roofed houses with a central courtyard, which best showcase the architecture of this area.

Not too far from Jomsom is Muktinath, the famous pilgrimage site for Buddhists and Hindus. For Hindus, Muktinath is a sacred place of salvation. They believe that bathing in the waters here guarantees salvation after death. The Hindu god, Lord Brahma, is said to have lit the eternal flames that burns at Muktinath. To Buddhists, Muktinath is where the great sage Guru Rinpoche or Padmasambhava who brought Buddhism to Tibet, came to meditate. The area around Jomsom is a perfect place to find fossilised ammonites, known locally as Shaligram, which are found all along the upper reaches of the Kali Gandaki.

Most of the route along the Jomsom trek forms part of the Annapurna circuit and Annapurna foothill treks. The usual starting point is Naya Pul on the Pokhara to Baglung road and from there, via Ghorepani and Tatopani, into the gorge of the Kali Gandaki. The deep valleys and high mountains encircling the giant Annapurna Himal embrace a wide range of peoples and terrain, from sub-tropical jungle to a high, dry landscape resembling the Tibetan Plateau.

Located 13 km from Jonsom, Dumba Lake is a small but picturesque attraction which is a short hike from Jomsom. Leopard Cave is an underground natural enclosure located at Thini. Rare snow leopard species are found here. Jomsom View Tower, from the height of 3750 m, offers beautiful panoramic views of the mountains of Mustang. The view tower is located at Thini, which is a short hike from Jomsom. Located on the Beni-Jomsom highway, about 40 km from Jomson, Rupse Falls is a major tourist attraction. The water falls from a height of 300 m and is surrounded by lush greenery and the world’s deepest gorge, the Kali Gandaki Gorge lies very close to the waterfall.

Kagbeni
A village in Upper Mustang, Kagbeni is located in the valley of the Kali Gandaki River and lies on the trail from Jomsom to the royal capital Lo Manthang, near the junction with the trail to Muktinath. Kagbeni is also regarded as one of the oldest villages in the Himalayas and lies between two sacred rivers Muktinath and Kali Gandaki. Officially Kagbeni is a settlement that bridges the gap between Lower and Upper Mustang, right at the feet of Muktinath Valley by the River Kali Gandaki. But spiritually, Kagbeni is a Tibetan village, stuck in the annals of time. In ancient times, Kagbeni was an important centre of trade for Tibetans and Indians. The famous Salt Trade Route between the two countries went through the village.

Kag Chode Thupten Samphel Ling Monastery, or the Red Monastery is the most famous landmark in the village. Built in 1429, the beauty of the monastery matches its surroundings. From outside, it looks colourful and desolate, just like the rest of Kagbeni. Inside there are sculptures of Buddha and friendly monks and a tranquil environment, where one can sit and meditate or listen to the silence. Photography is prohibited inside the monastery.

The Upper Mustang requires a special permit and USD 50 per day per person to stay and is why today many travellers prefer Kagbeni instead to get the ambience of high mountains. There are many trekking trails from Kagbeni, that lead up to the old royal capital of Lo Manthang. While trekking, one will come across Chortens and prayer wheels. Chortens are Buddhist tomb shrines, which are common in Tibetan culture and must always be crossed by the right side. The Tibetan Buddhists consider it bad luck to cross by the left. One will see numerous colourful Buddhist flags as well, planted here and there. From the summits, the entire valley can be seen, still like a painted picture on an artist’s canvas. A raw cold wind blows at this altitude at all times, and the view opens up to the vast expanses of mountain desert plains stretching into Tibet, it feels mysterious and intoxicating, but most importantly, insignificant. To stand there in front of the historical and unfathomable terrains of the Himalayas is as humbling an experience as it can be.

Mustang
Mustang which means a fertile plain was once part of the Kingdom of Lo-Manthang that joined the Federation of Nepal in 2008 after the abolition of the Shah dynasty. It straddles the Himalayas and extends northward onto the Tibetan Plateau is one of the remotest areas in Nepal and is second in terms of the sparsity of population. The elevation ranges from 1,372 to 8,167 m and includes Mount Dhaulagiri, the 7th highest mountain in the world, with several peaks above 7,000 meters.

Part of an ancient kingdom bordering the Tibetan plateau and sheltered by some of the world’s tallest peaks, Mustang still maintains Tibetan traditions because of strict regulations on the movement of tourists. Upper Mustang was a restricted area until 1992, which makes it one of the most preserved regions in the world due to its relative isolation from the outside world, with a majority of the population still speaking traditional Tibetic languages. Mustang is derived from the Tibetan word meaning the “Plain of Aspiration. It is a popular area for trekking and can be visited year-round, regardless of season. Lower Mustang is well-known for its natural scenery while Upper Mustang is famous for its trekking and hiking trails, monasteries, caves and local tribes.

The Kali Gandaki River is a highly important feature of Mustang. Its source is located near the Tibetan border coincides with the Tibetan border and the Ganges-Brahmaputra watershed divide. From there, it flows south towards the northern Indian plains through the ancient kingdom of Mustang, flowing through a sheer-sided, deep canyon immediately south of the Mustang capital of Lo Manthang, then widens as it approaches Kagbeni where high Himalayan ranges begin to close in. The river continues southward past Jomsom, Marpha, and Tukuche to the deepest part of the gorge about 7 km south of Tukuche in the area of Lete. The gorge then broadens past the border of Mustang and Myagdi. Geographically, Lower Mustang lies between the Tibetan Plateau in the North and the high Himalayan Mountains in the South. The region between the Tibetan Plateau and the Himalayan Mountains is called Trans-Himalaya. The Kali Gandaki Gorge or Andha Galchi, measured by the difference between the river height and the heights of the highest peaks on either side, is the world’s deepest canyon.

Much of the history of Mustang is about legends rather than documented facts. However, it is believed that Mustang or the Kingdom of Lo was once a part of the Ngari area of Tibet and a loose collection of feudal estates, their history is also tied to Tibetan religion and culture, geography, and politics. It was often closely linked to adjoining kingdoms of Western Tibet and, during other periods of history, politically linked to Lhasa, the capital of Central Tibet. Lo was incorporated into the Tibetan Empire by Songtsen Gampo, the most famous Tibetan king.

From the 15th century to the 17th century, Mustang had control over the trade between the Himalayas and India because of its strategic location. In 1380, Lo became an independent kingdom under Ame Pal. The last royal family traced its lineage for 25 generations, all the way back to Ame Pal who oversaw the founding and building of much of the Lo and Mustang capital of Lo Manthang, a walled city surprisingly little changed in appearance from that period. The only remnant of these kingdoms is the still-intact Kingdom of Lo, an area corresponding to the northern third of Mustang.

In 1769, the army of Prithvi Narayan Shah, the first King of the Gorkha Kingdom and the Shah dynasty, unified what was a land of many small kingdoms to forge the kingdom of Nepal. At the end of the 18th century, the kingdom was annexed by Nepal and became a dependency of the Kingdom of Nepal in 1795. During the late 1950s and 60s, Mustang became the centre for Tibetan guerrillas engaged in small operations against the Annexation of Tibet by the People’s Republic of China in 1959. Up until 2008, the Kingdom of Lo or Upper Mustang was an ethnic Tibetan kingdom and a suzerainty of the Kingdom of Nepal. Though still recognised by many Mustang residents, the monarchy ceased to exist on 7 October 2008, by order of the Government of Nepal. The last official and later unofficial king (raja or gyelpo) of Mustang was Jigme Dorje Palbar Bista who lived between 1930 and 2016. He died on 16 December 2016 after living a retired life largely in Kathmandu since 2008 when Nepal abolished its own monarchy.

One feature of Mustang is the thousands of cliff dwellings, some highly inaccessible. These Mustang Caves or Sky Caves of Nepal are a collection of some 10,000 man-made caves dug into the sides of valleys in the Mustang. Several groups of archaeologists and researchers have explored these stacked caves and found partially mummified human bodies and skeletons that are at least 2,000–3,000 years old. Explorations of these caves by conservators and archaeologists have also led to the discovery of valuable Buddhist paintings, sculptures, manuscripts and numerous artefacts belonging to the 12th to 14th centuries. The caves lie on the steep valley walls near the Kali Gandaki River in Upper Mustang.

Lo was out-of-bounds for foreigners until 1992. Although it is now open on a restricted basis to foreign travellers, tourism to the region is still strictly restricted and hard to access. The Nepalese government have introduced a surcharge for anyone trekking past Kagbeni, which marks the border of Upper Mustang. Foreign tourists are required by the Nepalese Department of Immigration to acquire special permits, pay fairly steep fees of US$50 per day per person, and be accompanied by a liaison guide to protect local traditions and the environment from outside influence.

The ancestral isolation of Mustang helped to retain its ancient culture largely unviolated, and it survives as one of the last bastions of traditional Tibetan life. In this ancient forbidden kingdom, traditions have survived longer than in Tibet proper following its annexation by China. The lower Mustang areas such as much of Baragaon, Panchgaon, and Thak Sat Sae along the Annapurna Circuit are among the most heavily trekked routes in Nepal. The scenery of the trail ranges from forests of bright rhododendron fields to rocky cliffs and deserts. The culture along the trek is a rich combination of Hindu and Tibetan Buddhism. The trail’s highest point is Muktinath at 3800 m, a popular Hindu and Buddhist pilgrimage site for centuries. The Kali Gandaki Gorge is part of the popular trekking route from Pokhara to Muktinath. The gorge is within the Annapurna Conservation Area.

The Muktinath Temple is significant to both Hindus and Buddhists. Located in the Muktinath Valley, the shrine is close to the rural Ranipauwa, which is often mistaken to be Muktinath. The temple’s name refers to Mukti, meaning nirvana, or salvation, and nath, which signifies master, or Lord. Among the Hindus, Muktinath temple is also referred to as the Mukti Kshetra, which translates to “the place where one receives moksha or liberation”. Of the one hundred and eight sacred Shri Vaishnava temples, Muktinath Temple holds the 106th rank among the Divya Desam, or ‘premium temples’. The ideal time to visit this temple is between March to June when the temperatures are relatively warm, and the overall weather condition is pretty pleasant.

One of the eight sacred shrines, Muktinath Temple, is built in the Pagoda-styled central temple which has a gold statue of Lord Vishnu. Even though the temple is small, the main deity is almost the size of an adult man. This central statue in the temple is seen as the manifestation of Padmapani, a compassionate embodiment of all the Buddhas. In front of the temple lie two ponds, named Lakshmi Kunda and Saraswati Kunda respectively. It is a common belief that bathing in these water bodies washes off all negative forces and karma. Muktinath temple is said to have risen on its own; therefore including it as one of the eight shrines which have supposedly existed by themselves.

The outer courtyard, or the Prakaram, houses one hundred and eight waterspouts shaped like the heads of bulls, through which the sacred water of the Kali Gandaki River flows. This water symbolises the Pushkarini waters that are believed to have descended from the one hundred and eight Divya Desams. Devotees bathe in these waters even during freezing temperatures, with the hope of washing away their sins and attaining salvation.

Because of the hundred and eight water springs, the temple is also known as Chumig Gyatsa which translates to Hundred Waters. The Buddhists consider it to be an essential place for the Dakinis, the goddesses who are also known as the Sky Dancers. Legend also says it is the place where Guru Padmasambhava had meditated for some time before moving on with his journey from India to Tibet.

Short Story: The Compass

Posted on April 21, 2025 by memoriesandsuch

The sun was setting over the small coastal town of Crescent Bay, casting a warm golden hue over the waves. Emma Carter stood in her grandfather’s study, surrounded by dusty bookshelves filled with travelogues and maps. It had been a week since her grandfather, a renowned explorer, had passed away, and she still felt the weight of his absence.

As she rummaged through his belongings, Emma’s fingers brushed against something cool and metallic. She pulled out an ornate compass, its burnt orange casing reflecting the fading light. It was unlike any compass she had seen before—intricate designs adorned its surface, and it felt strangely alive in her hand.

“Ah, you found it,” came a voice from behind her. It was her grandmother, Margaret, who entered the room with a gentle smile tinged with sadness. “Your grandfather always said that compass held more than just direction.”

“What do you mean?” Emma asked, turning the compass over in her hands. Margaret’s eyes sparkled with nostalgia. “He believed it would lead you to places you needed to be—not just physically, but emotionally as well. It was his most prized possession.”

Emma felt a surge of curiosity. “What was his last wish?” Margaret took a deep breath, her expression growing serious. “He wanted you to follow in his footsteps and explore the world. He believed there were still adventures waiting for you.”

Emma’s heart raced at the thought. She had always dreamed of becoming an explorer like her grandfather, but life had kept her tethered to Crescent Bay—school, work, and responsibilities. Now, with this compass in hand and her grandfather’s wish echoing in her mind, she felt an undeniable pull to embark on a journey.

The next morning, Emma packed a small backpack with essentials—water, snacks, a notebook to document her journey—and slipped the compass into her pocket. With one last glance at her childhood home, she set off towards the nearby cliffs that overlooked the ocean.

As she reached the edge of the cliffs, Emma took out the compass and held it before her. The needle spun wildly before settling in one direction—toward the north. She smiled at the thought of adventure awaiting her. “Alright,” she said aloud to herself, “let’s see where this leads.”

Following the compass’s direction, Emma trekked through winding paths and dense forests that bordered Crescent Bay. With each step she took into the wilderness, she felt a sense of freedom wash over her—a stark contrast to the confines of everyday life. Hours passed as she walked deeper into nature. The compass led her to a hidden waterfall cascading into a crystal-clear pool surrounded by vibrant wildflowers. Emma gasped at the beauty before her; it was as if nature had painted this scene just for her.

She sat on a rock by the water’s edge and opened her notebook to jot down her thoughts. “Day 1: Found a hidden waterfall,” she wrote. “The compass is guiding me toward something special.” As she wrote, Emma couldn’t shake off the feeling that this journey was more than just an exploration of new places—it was also about uncovering pieces of herself that had long been buried under layers of expectation and routine. The next day brought new adventures as Emma continued to follow the compass northward. Each destination revealed breathtaking landscapes—a secluded beach with golden sands, and an ancient grove filled with towering trees that whispered secrets in the wind.

One afternoon, while exploring an old fishing village along the coast, Emma stumbled upon an elderly man sitting outside a small shop filled with trinkets and souvenirs. His weathered face broke into a warm smile as he saw Emma approach. “Ah! You look like someone who enjoys adventure,” he said with a twinkle in his eye. “I do!” Emma replied enthusiastically. “I’m following my grandfather’s compass.” The man’s expression shifted to one of recognition. “Your grandfather? Thomas Carter? He was quite the explorer! I remember him well.”

Emma’s heart swelled with pride. “Yes! He passed away recently.” The man nodded solemnly. “He left behind quite a legacy. Did he ever tell you about his journey to find the Lost Isles?” Emma shook her head. “No, he didn’t mention it.” “Ah,” he said thoughtfully. “It’s said that those isles hold treasures beyond imagination—both material and spiritual.” He leaned closer and whispered conspiratorially, “Many have searched for them but few have returned unchanged.”

Intrigued by his words, Emma asked him for more details about these isles and how they related to her grandfather’s adventures. “Your grandfather believed that true treasure lies not just in gold or jewels but in understanding oneself,” he explained. “Perhaps your compass is guiding you toward those isles—not just geographically but emotionally as well.” With newfound determination igniting within her, Emma thanked the man and continued on her journey.

Days turned into weeks as Emma followed the compass further along the coast and inland through lush landscapes dotted with villages rich in culture and history. Each place she visited seemed to resonate with stories from generations past—stories that echoed themes of love, loss, resilience, and hope.

One evening while camping under starlit skies near a serene lake, Emma reflected on what she had learned so far. She realized that every destination brought new insights about herself and her family’s legacy—the sacrifices made by those who came before her and their dreams woven into hers. As she sat by the flickering campfire writing in her notebook about these revelations, she felt an overwhelming sense of connection—not only to nature but also to those who had walked this earth long before her.

“Maybe my grandfather wasn’t just an explorer,” she mused aloud to herself. “Maybe he was also searching for something deeper—a way to understand our place in this world.” But not all days were peaceful; one afternoon while hiking through dense woods toward what appeared on maps as an uncharted area near the coast—dark clouds gathered ominously overhead.

Emma quickened her pace but soon found herself caught in a torrential downpour that soaked through her clothes within minutes. Seeking shelter beneath an ancient tree with gnarled roots protruding from its base—she huddled against its trunk trying desperately to shield herself from the rain pelting down relentlessly around them! As thunder rumbled overhead sending shivers down her spine—Emma closed her eyes tightly wishing the storm would pass quickly allowing sunlight back into life once more!

Suddenly—a flash illuminated the surroundings revealing something glinting among the roots below! Curiosity piqued despite fear gripping her heart; she reached down carefully brushing away mud until uncovering a small metallic box intricately engraved resembling designs reminiscent of ancient times!

Heart racing—she pried open the lid revealing inside delicate necklace adorned with beautifully crafted emeralds glistening even amidst gloom surrounding them! “This must be part of what my grandfather sought!” Emma gasped realising the connection between the necklace discovered here today aligning perfectly alongside stories told earlier during travels! With renewed vigour despite the storm raging outside—Emma carefully secured the necklace around her neck feeling the warmth radiating from stones nestled against her skin!

Once the rain subsided allowing sunlight to break through the clouds illuminating the path ahead—she continued onward determined to uncover secrets hidden within the legacy left behind not just by ancestors but also by those who loved fiercely throughout history!

Days later, arriving at a coastal town bustling with life; locals welcomed warmly sharing tales woven together across generations connecting past present future alike reminding everyone importance of cherishing memories made along the way!

One evening while dining at a local eatery surrounded by laughter joy filling air; Emma overheard a conversation between two fishermen discussing legends tied back towards Lost Isles mentioned earlier during travels! Intrigued—she approached them asking questions prompting them to share stories passed down through families revealing deeper truths surrounding love triangles heartbreaks tragedies faced throughout centuries past…

Each tale resonated deeply within the heart inspiring hope and resilience reminding everyone present how love transcends time itself weaving threads connecting lives forevermore!

After weeks spent exploring the coastline and discovering hidden gems along the way—Emma finally arrived at a destination marked clearly upon the map indicating a location rumouredto to lead towards Lost Isles itself! Standing upon a cliff overlooking the vast expanse of ocean waves crashing against rocks below; she felt a mixture of excitement and trepidation coursing through her veins knowing that her journey was nearing its conclusion yet realising adventure never truly ends!

Taking a deep breath and gathering courage; she held tightly onto the emerald necklace feeling its energy pulsate reminding strength derived from the legacy left behind guiding every step taken thus far! With determination igniting spirit within; Emma set sail aboard the small boat navigating treacherous waters guided solely by intuition trusting compass leading true north towards destiny awaiting discovery…

After hours spent battling waves, she finally emerged victorious upon a shore of pristine white sand stretching endlessly before her. Her eyes were wide open taking everything the moment offered fully appreciating the beauty surrounding her. As sunlight bathed the landscape illuminating the vibrant colours of the flora and fauna thriving all around; Emma stepped ashore feeling a connection deepening within her heart knowing this place held significance beyond comprehension!

Exploring further inland, Emma discovered hidden caves adorned with beautifully crafted murals depicting stories told throughout history capturing the essence of love lost and found again reminding everyone of the importance of cherishing bonds formed across generations…

While exploring the cave adorned with intricately carved symbols resembling the emerald necklace discovered earlier; realisation dawned upon Emma. She understood the truth behind the legacy woven throughout lives lived long ago—the necklace wasn’t merely an artefact representing wealth but rather the embodiment of hope resilience love transcending time itself! After days spent uncovering secrets hidden within the Lost Isles; Emma returned home feeling transformed and enriched with the experiences gained along the way shaping her perspective forevermore!

Back at Crescent Bay surrounded by familiar sights and sounds, Emma’s heart was filled with warmth reminding everyone present of the importance of embracing the journey undertaken together and forging deeper connections. As the news spread throughout the community regarding the discoveries made during Emma’s travels, it inspired others to pursue dreams and to ignite passions reigniting the flames of hope within hearts longing for adventure awaiting discovery beyond horizons unseen…

Standing upon the cliff overlooking ocean waves crashing against rocks below once again; Emma held tightly onto her emerald necklace feeling energy pulsate reminding strength derived from the legacy left behind guiding every step taken thus far! With newfound purpose igniting spirit within; she vowed to continue honouring ancestors ensuring stories lived on inspiring future generations embracing journeys undertaken together forging connections deeper than ever imagined possible…

Memories and Such

Memories of a very ordinary life

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