Travel Bucket List: Malaysia Part 37 – Kedah Part 1

Kedah, also known by its honorific Darul Aman and historically as Queda, is in the northwestern part of Peninsular Malaysia. The state consists of the mainland and the Langkawi Islands. The mainland has relatively flat terrain, which is used to grow rice, while Langkawi is an archipelago, most of which are uninhabited islands.

Kedah was previously known as Kadaram by the ancient and medieval Tamils, Kataha or Kalahbar by the Arabs, and Syburi by the Siamese when it was under their influence. To the north, Kedah borders the state of Perlis and shares an international boundary with the Songkhla and Yala provinces of Thailand. It borders the states of Perak to the south and Penang to the southwest. The state’s capital is Alor Setar and the royal seat is in Anak Bukit. Other major towns include Sungai Petani, its largest urban area by population, Kulim on the mainland, and Kuah on Langkawi.

Around 788 BCE, a systematic government of a large settlement had already been established around the northern bank of the Merbok River. The state consisted of a large area of Bujang Valley, covering Merbok and the Muda River branches, covering about 1000 square miles. The capital of the settlement was built at the estuary of a branch of the Merbok River, now known as Sungai Batu. Archaeological evidence found in Bujang Valley reveals an animist kingdom ruled ancient Kedah, possibly as early as 110 AD. The discovery of temples, jetty remains, iron smelting sites, and clay brick monuments dating back to 110 AD shows that a maritime trading route with south Indian Tamil kingdoms was already established since that time. The discoveries in Bujang Valley also made the ancient Kedah the oldest civilisation in Southeast Asia.

In the seventh and eighth centuries, Kedah was under the loose control of the Srivijaya empire. Indian and Arab sources consider Kedah to be one of the two important sites during the Srivijaya period, often calling the king of the straits “the ruler of Srivijaya and Kataha.” In 1025, Rajendra Chola, the Chola king from the Coromandel Coast in South India, captured Kedah in his Chola invasion of Srivijaya and occupied it for some time. A second invasion was led by Virarajendra Chola of the Chola dynasty, who conquered Kedah in the late 11th century. During the reign of Kulothunga Chola I Chola overlordship was established over the Srivijayan province of Kedah in the late 11th century.

According to Hikayat Merong Mahawangsa or the Kedah Annals, Kedah was founded by a Hindu king named Merong Mahawangsa. The Sultanate of Kedah began in 1136, when King Phra Ong Mahawangsa converted to Islam and adopted the name Sultan Mudzafar Shah. However, an Acehnese account gave a date of 1474 for the year of conversion to Islam by the ruler of Kedah. This later date is confirmed by an account in the Malay Annals where a Raja of Kedah visited Malacca during the reign of its last sultan, seeking the honour of the royal band that marks the sovereignty of a Muslim ruler. However, Thai chronicles say that Kedah was a Thai city like Nakhon Si Thammarat and was a part of the Siamese kingdom but was later changed into a Malay state after the invasion of Muslim kingdoms until today.

It was later under Siam until it was conquered by the Malay sultanate of Malacca in the 15th century. In the 17th century, Kedah was attacked by the Portuguese after their conquest of Malacca, and by Aceh. In the hope that Great Britain would protect what remained of Kedah from Siam, the Sultan handed over Penang and then Province Wellesley to the British at the end of the 18th century. The Siamese nevertheless invaded Kedah in 1821, and it remained under Siamese control under the name of Syburi. In 1896, Kedah along with Perlis and Setul was combined into the Siamese province of Monthon Syburi which lasted until transferred to the British by the Anglo-Siamese Treaty of 1909.

In World War II, Kedah, along with Kelantan, was the first part of Malaya to be invaded by Japan. The Japanese returned Kedah to their Thai allies, who had it renamed Syburi, but it returned to British rule after the end of the war. Kedah became one of the states of the Federation of Malaya in 1948, which achieved independence in 1957 and then became part of Malaysia in 1963.

Kedah is the 8th largest state by land area and the 8th most populated state in Malaysia. The terrain is mostly flat in general, as the Kedah-Perlis Plain covers much of the state’s land area, from the district of Kuala Muda in the south towards the state of Perlis in the north. Owing to their alluvial properties, most of the plains have been developed for rice farming for centuries. The Kedah–Songkhla and Bintang Ranges formed the state’s boundary between the Thai provinces of Songkhla and Yala in the northeast and the state of Perak in the southeast. The Bintang Range is home to Mount Bintang, the state’s highest point, located on the border with Perak. Pedu Lake is the largest man-made lake in the state.

Kedah has a relatively heterogeneous populace constituted by three major ethnic groups; the Malays, Chinese and Indians as well as some Malaysian Siamese ethnic groups, similar to most of the other Malaysian states. Before the formation of the Federation of Malaya, there was an ethnic group known as the Sam Sam people. They are culturally Malay Muslim but speak the Siamese language. Most of these communities are almost extinct due to assimilation with the Malays. In some places in Kedah, the Sam Sam people still retain their Siamese language as their mother tongue. Kedah has a very small Orang Asli community. Kedah Malay, known locally as Pelat Utagha or the Northern dialect, is a distinct variety of Malay that also serves as the state’s main lingua franca and is used by almost all Kedahans, regardless of race.

Kedah is considered the rice bowl of Malaysia, accounting for about half of Malaysia’s total production. Tourism, particularly on the island of Langkawi is of growing importance. More recently, Kedah has forged its economy towards the automotive and aerospace industries.

Alor Setar
Kedah’s state capital, Alor Setar, is the second-largest city in the state after Sungai Petani and one of the most important cities on the west coast of Peninsular Malaysia. It is home to the third-tallest telecommunication tower in Malaysia, the Alor Setar Tower. Its location along the main travel corridor from Malaysia to Thailand has long made it a major transportation hub on the northern Malay Peninsula. Located along the country’s longest expressway, Alor Setar is 430 km from Kuala Lumpur and 79 km north of George Town, Penang. From Thailand, the city is easily accessible via the Padang Besar–Sadao Highway and is 52 km from Sadao and 106 km from Hat Yai.

The city was originally founded as Kota Setar in 1785. Owing to its long status as the capital of Kedah, Alor Setar is regarded as one of the core cultural centres for the Kedahan Malays. It is also among the key pioneers in Malayan transportation history, with the railway station commissioned in 1915, followed by its airport in 1929.

Alor Setar is the birthplace of two pivotal prime ministers of Malaysia; Tunku Abdul Rahman, the founding father of the nation, who was prime minister from 1957 to 1970 and Mahathir bin Mohamad, the country’s longest-serving prime minister, who was prime minister for 24 years, from 1981 to 2003, and then between 2018 and 2020.

Alor Setar’s name came from the combination of two Malay words: Alor, which means a small stream, and Setar, or the plum mango, a tree related to the mango. The city’s name was changed to Alor Star during a December 21, 2003, ceremony proclaiming it a city. The city’s original name was restored on January 15, 2009.

Alor Setar was established on December 31, 1735, by Kedah’s 19th ruler, Sultan Muhammad Jiwa Zainal Adilin II and was the state’s eighth administrative centre since the establishment of the Kedah Sultanate in 1136. The pre-existing settlement was originally a small village. The sultan found the area to be in a strategic location, as it was covered in lush greenery and was where the two estuaries of the Kedah River converged. A new town, named Kota Setar or the Town of Setar, was created, whose name was derived from the Bouea macrophylla, a type of tree that can be found in the area. However, the capital suffered a major attack when the Bugis armada, led by Raja Haji, managed to destroy both the Istana Kota Setar or the Royal Palace and Balai Besar, the Grand Hall, in 1770. In 1771, the British, represented by Francis Light and Sultan Abdullah Mukaram Shah, entered into an agreement to halt the Bugis influence in Kedah.

During the coronation ceremony of Ahmad Tajuddin Halim Shah II of Kedah on March 17, 1805, Siamese forces managed to occupy the capital. The sultan was forced to retreat to Penang and later to Malacca. The settlement was put on hold for 20 years. He was restored to the crown in 1842 and the capital was temporarily relocated to Kota Kuala Muda before returning to Kota Setar.

In October 1883, James F. Agustin, an Englishman, arrived in Kuala Sungai Kedah, now known as Kuala Kedah, about 10 km from the capital. He and a few others journeyed towards the inland areas of Kedah, where they met several Malay settlements on the banks of the Kedah River. Upon his arrival in Kampung Kota Setar, Agustin befriended several local Malays and they invited him to the sultan’s palatial residence. He was well received by the sultan and both parties exchanged goods. The visit by Agustin spurred the growth of more active and direct trade relations between Kedah and outside commercial powerhouses. The city attracted various cosmopolitan trading activities from the British, Indian, and Chinese, together with other local and regional merchants. The town prospered from a small settlement into a bustling town designated to accommodate further population growth, commerce and administration. The British, in particular, were quite drawn to the potential of Kota Setar, as it was then known.

Gradually, Kota Setar thrived and further evolved into a commercial, transportation and communication hub for Kedah. The name was then changed from Kota Setar to Alor Setar, a reflection of its geographical features located in a small stream known as Alor in Malay, which was frequented by the Malay traders from the neighbouring states. However, the name Kota Setar was retained as a sub-district under Alor Setar.

Other significant events during the turn of the 20th century included the reunification of Perlis and Setul, now Satun and Kedah, by the Siamese in May 1897. Both provinces had been separated from Kedah in 1821. The event, held in Balai Besar, was attended by the Crown Prince of Kedah, Tuanku Abdul Aziz, as a representative of Sultan Abdul Hamid Halim Shah. On July 25, 1905, the Legislative Council of Kedah, Majlis Mesyuarat Negeri, was formed in Alor Setar, with the Crown Prince, Tuanku Abdul Aziz, as its president. Following the Anglo-Siamese Treaty of 1909 on July 7, 1909, the transfer of power from the Siamese to the British administration was held on July 15, 1909, at Balai Besar. Alor Setar fell to the Japanese occupation on December 13, 1945 and was annexed to the Siamese state until 1946.

The town celebrated its 250th birthday in 1985. A proposal to upgrade the town to city status was made in 2000. Alor Setar was proclaimed a city – the ninth in Malaysia — on December 2003. During the ceremony, the city was formally renamed Alor Star, the third time the city has changed its name, from Kota Setar to Alor Setar and Alor Star. On January 15, 2009, the historical spelling Alor Setar was returned to be its official designation.

In My Hands Today…

The Killer Across the Table: Unlocking the Secrets of Serial Killers and Predators with the FBI’s Original Mindhunter – John E. Douglas and Mark Olshaker

The FBI’s pioneer of criminal profiling, former special agent John Douglas, has studied and interviewed many of America’s most notorious killers—including Charles Manson, ”Son of Sam Killer” David Berkowitz and ”BTK Strangler” Dennis Rader—trained FBI agents and investigators around and the world, and helped educate the country about these deadly predators and how they operate, and has become a legend in popular culture, fictionalized in The Silence of the Lambs and the hit television shows Criminal Minds and Mindhunter.

Twenty years after his famous memoir, the man who literally wrote the book on FBI criminal profiling opens his case files once again. In this riveting work of true crime, he spotlights four of the most diabolical criminals he’s confronted, interviewed and learned from. Going deep into each man’s life and crimes, he outlines the factors that led them to murder and how he used his interrogation skills to expose their means, motives, and true evil. Like the hit Netflix show, The Killer Across the Table is centered around Douglas’ unique interrogation and profiling process. With his longtime collaborator Mark Olshaker, Douglas recounts the chilling encounters with these four killers as he experienced them—revealing for the first time his profile methods in detail.

Going step by step through his interviews, Douglas explains how he connects each killer’s crimes to the specific conversation, and contrasts these encounters with those of other deadly criminals to show what he learns from each one. In the process, he returns to other famous cases, killers and interviews that have shaped his career, describing how the knowledge he gained from those exchanges helped prepare him for these.

Short Story: Celebrating Women – The Circle of Life

In a quaint village nestled between rolling hills and whispering forests, the rhythm of life flowed gently, like the melody of a timeless lullaby. Here, amid the cobblestone streets and rustic cottages, lived women whose stories wove together to create a tapestry of resilience, strength, and sisterhood.

In the heart of the village, beneath the sprawling branches of an ancient banyan tree, sat young Lila, her eyes alight with wonder as she listened to her grandmother’s tales. Sitamma, with her silver hair and twinkling eyes, spoke of a time long past, when women were the keepers of tradition and wisdom.

Lila hung on her grandmother’s every word, her imagination ignited by stories of brave heroines and fierce warriors who had defied the odds and changed the course of history. As the sun dipped below the horizon, casting a golden glow upon the village, Sitamma whispered words of encouragement to her granddaughter.

“Remember, my dear,” she said, her voice a gentle breeze that stirred the air, “you carry within you the strength of generations past. Let your heart be your guide, and never forget the power of your voice.”

With those words echoing in her heart, Lila embarked on her journey, her spirit ablaze with the fire of possibility. She knew that she was but a bud, waiting to bloom into the fullness of her potential. And so, with each passing day, she embraced the challenges and triumphs that awaited her, knowing that her story was just beginning.

In a cottage nestled on the edge of the village, lived Kaveri, a mother whose love knew no bounds. With her gentle touch and nurturing spirit, she tended to the needs of her children, weaving a tapestry of love and warmth that enveloped their home like a cosy blanket.

Kaveri’s days were filled with laughter and chaos, the music of her children’s laughter a melody that danced through the halls. From dawn until dusk, she juggled the demands of motherhood with grace and poise, her heart overflowing with the joy of watching her children grow. But amidst the laughter, Sarah carried with her the weight of responsibility, the knowledge that she was the guiding light in her children’s lives. Through sleepless nights and tear-stained cheeks, she held their hands and whispered words of comfort, knowing that her love would carry them through even the darkest of days.

As she watched her children grow, Kaveri marvelled at the beauty of motherhood – the highs and lows, the triumphs and challenges, all woven together in a tapestry of love. She knew that her role was sacred, a privilege bestowed upon her by the universe, and she embraced it with open arms, knowing that she was fulfilling her purpose with every beat of her heart.

In the heart of the village square, beneath the shade of a blossoming cherry tree, sat Gowri Patti, an elderly woman whose wisdom was as deep as the ocean and as vast as the sky. With her weathered hands and kind eyes, she watched over the village like a guardian angel, her presence a source of comfort and guidance to all who sought her counsel.

Gowri Patti had lived a life rich with experience, her journey marked by triumphs and tribulations, victories and defeats. But through it all, she had remained steadfast in her belief in the power of sisterhood, the unbreakable bond that connected women of all ages and walks of life.

As the village gathered around her, eager to hear her tales of wisdom, Gowri Patti spoke of the importance of embracing one’s true self, of standing tall in the face of adversity, and of cherishing the bonds of friendship and sisterhood that bound them together. Her words were like poetry, weaving a tapestry of hope and inspiration that enveloped the village like a warm embrace. For in the wisdom of age, she found the courage to speak her truth, knowing that her voice held the power to ignite the flames of change and transformation.

And so, as the sun set on another day in the village, the women gathered beneath the banyan tree, their hearts intertwined like the branches above. They knew that their stories were but threads in the tapestry of sisterhood, each one unique and precious, yet connected by the unbreakable bonds of love and solidarity.

As the seasons turned and time marched onward, the women of the village continued to weave the threads of their lives together, creating a tapestry of strength, resilience, and sisterhood. From the blossoming innocence of youth to the quiet wisdom of age, each stage of life brought with it its joys and challenges, its triumphs and tribulations.

But through it all, the women remained united in their shared journey, their stories intertwined like the branches of the banyan tree, rooted deep in the soil of tradition and love. For in the heart of the village, amid the laughter and tears, the triumphs and defeats, there beat the timeless rhythm of sisterhood, a melody that echoed through the ages, celebrating the resilience and beauty of women everywhere.

In My Hands Today…

Why Has Nobody Told Me This Before? – Julie Smith

Filled with secrets from a therapist’s toolkit, Why Has Nobody Told Me This Before? teaches you how to fortify and maintain your mental health, even in the most trying of times. Dr Julie Smith’s expert advice and powerful coping techniques will help you stay resilient, whether you want to manage anxiety, deal with criticism, cope with depression, build self-confidence, find motivation, or learn to forgive yourself. The book tackles everyday issues and offers practical solutions in bite-sized, easy-to-digest entries which make it easy to quickly find specific information and guidance.

Your mental well-being is just as important as your physical well-being. Packed with proven strategies, Dr Smith’s empathetic guide offers a deeper understanding of how your mind works and gives you the insights and help you need to nurture your mental health every day. Wise and practical, Why Has Nobody Told Me This Before? might just change your life.

The Power of Introverts: Unleashing Quiet Brilliance

In a world that often celebrates extroversion, the quiet strength of introverts often goes unnoticed. But beneath the calm and sometimes unassuming demeanour lie many unique talents and abilities that shape our society in profound ways.

Introversion refers to a personality trait characterised by a preference for solitude, introspection, and quiet reflection. Introverts tend to feel more energised and fulfilled when they spend time alone or engage in activities that allow for deep thinking and self-exploration. Introversion is not simply about shyness or reticence in social situations, but rather a preference for solitude, reflection, and deep introspection. Introverts draw energy from within, finding solace and renewal in moments of quiet contemplation and solitude.

Introverts possess a remarkable capacity for reflection and self-awareness, often delving deep into their inner thoughts and emotions to gain insights and perspective on themselves and the world around them. This introspective nature fuels creativity, innovation, and personal growth. Introverts thrive in the quiet corners of life. They find solace in solitude, introspection, and deep thought. While extroverts draw energy from social interactions, introverts recharge their mental and emotional batteries by retreating to their inner sanctums. They often seek out quiet environments where they can focus their thoughts and feelings. But this preference for quietude doesn’t equate to weakness; rather, it’s a wellspring of strength waiting to be tapped.

Introverts may have a smaller circle of friends but maintain meaningful connections. They value quality over quantity in relationships and prefer deeper conversations. They are deep thinkers, often excelling at contemplating complex ideas and exploring their inner worlds. Their ability to listen to and understand others makes them empathetic and supportive. Introverts are also very creative, with many artists, writers, and thinkers identifying as introverts and channeling their creativity into their work.

Introverts are exceptional listeners. Their ability to absorb information, empathize, and truly understand others is unparalleled. In a world where noise often drowns out nuance, introverts provide a vital counterbalance. They listen not just with their ears but with their hearts, fostering genuine connections and bridging gaps between people.

Introverts possess a unique set of strengths that contribute to their success and well-being. Introverts tend to listen more than they speak, allowing them to absorb information about other people. Their empathetic nature enables them to understand others deeply and offer meaningful support. Solitude provides fertile ground for creativity. Introverts often tap into their rich inner world to generate innovative ideas, artistic expressions, and unique solutions. Their preference for focused, solitary work allows introverts to excel in academic pursuits. They thrive when given the opportunity to delve into complex subjects and explore ideas deeply. They prioritise self-care and introspection. Their ability to recharge through alone time contributes to better mental and physical health. Introverts possess qualities like thoughtful preparation, calm focus, and grounded energy. These attributes make them effective leaders and entrepreneurs. Introverts thrive when working independently. Their ability to concentrate without distractions leads to increased productivity. Introverts value quality over quantity in relationships. Their small circle of close friends allows for deeper connections and meaningful interactions.

Leadership isn’t synonymous with extroversion. Contrary to stereotypes, introverts can be effective leaders. Introverted leaders lead by example, inspire through their actions, and create spaces where everyone’s voice is heard. Consider Rosa Parks, whose quiet defiance sparked a civil rights movement, or Mahatma Gandhi, whose inner strength transformed nations. Introverted leaders lead not with bravado or charisma, but with authenticity, humility, and integrity. Their quiet strength inspires trust, loyalty, and commitment, empowering others to embrace their own unique gifts and talents. In a world that often values extroversion over introversion, introverted leaders serve as catalysts for change, challenging conventional wisdom and championing inclusivity, diversity, and authenticity. Their quiet revolution sparks innovation, empathy, and social change. Introverted leaders often exhibit qualities such as not dominating conversations, synthesising information, and reassuring others during challenging times.

Introverts are catalysts for change. Their thoughtful contributions—whether in art, science, or social justice—shape the world. Susan Cain, author of “Quiet: The Power of Introverts in a World That Can’t Stop Talking,” ignited a quiet revolution by championing introverts’ value. TED Talks like hers remind us that introverts are not outliers; they are essential threads in our societal fabric.

Despite their strengths, introverts often face challenges. Society tends to favour the gregarious, the charismatic, and the outspoken. But introverts have much to offer, and it’s time to recognise their quiet brilliance. Introversion is not a flaw or a weakness. It is a unique way of being. Remember, introversion is not a limitation, it’s a strength that contributes to the rich diversity of human personalities.

As we celebrate extroversion, let’s also honour the introverts—the poets, the thinkers, and the dreamers. Let’s recognize that their quiet brilliance fuels progress, innovation, and compassion. So, the next time you encounter an introvert, listen closely. Under their soft-spoken words lies a symphony of wisdom waiting to be heard. In a world that often shouts, let’s lean in and listen to the whispers of introverts. Their power lies not in volume but in depth, not in noise but in nuance. Let’s celebrate the introvert within us all.