Bollywood is no place for a vulnerable, small-town girl like Aasha Rani. But that doesn’t stop her mother from pushing her into a world of exploitation and bedroom casting calls. Aasha has no choice but to thrive-despite the vicious circles of starlets, pimps, and celebrities who want to see her meet her end.
But the day she meets Bollywood’s leading man, everything she’s worked so hard for is jeopardised. Because she may be falling for Akshay Arora-and there’s no room for love in a business where it’s the stranger under your sheets holding the key to your success. With her innocence stolen and nowhere else to turn, Aasha knows her downfall could come as quickly as her rise to fame. And letting herself love might just be the most fatal career move of her life…
After visiting Jaipur and Udaipur earlier this week, let’s continue our journey in exploring more of Rajasthan by heading slightly north-west, arounf 250 km from Udaipur to the city known as the Blue City or Jodhpur.
Jodhpur – The Blue City The second-largest city in the state, and formerly the seat of a princely state of the same name, Jodhpur has historically been the capital of the kingdom known as Marwar. The city is a popular tourist destination, featuring many palaces, forts and temples, set in the stark landscape of the Thar Desert.
The city of Jodhpur was founded in 1459 by Rao Jodha, a Rajput chief of the Rathore clan. Jodha succeeded in conquering the surrounding territory and thus founded a kingdom which came to be known as Marwar. As Jodha hailed from the nearby town of Mandore, that town initially served as the capital of this state; however, Jodhpur soon took over that role, even during the lifetime of Jodha. The city was located on the strategic road linking Delhi to Gujarat. This enabled it to profit from a flourishing trade in opium, copper, silk, sandalwood, dates and other tradeable goods. There are many building painted blue in the city and this is because it was originally painted blue to signify that they were occupied by the Brahmin community.
So what’s special in terms of places to see and visit in Jodhpur?
Mehrangarh Fort Imposing Mehrangarh Fort, which rises above the “Blue City”, is one of the largest and most famous forts in India. One of the largest forts in India, Mehrangarh Fort is also called Mehran Fort and was built in 1459 by Rao Jodha. You can spot imprints of cannon balls which have existed for many hundred years now. The most interesting part of the fort are the seven gates that were built by Maharaja Man Singh to commemorate his victories. As impressive as it is, as a well-preserved heritage structure, there’s so much more to discover inside. The fort has been privately restored and its museum has an outstanding display of royal memorabilia, including about 15,000 items from Maharaja Gaj Singh II’s personal collection. It also has the only professional museum shop in India. The cultural performances that happen daily at various places inside the fort, as part of the special focus on folk art and music, are another highlight.
Jaswant Thada This intricately crafted cenotaph (empty commemorative tomb) made of milky-white marble was built in 1899, in honor of Maharaja Jaswant Singh II. It features white marble lattice screens and whimsical domes, while the inside is adorned with portraits of Rathore rulers going back to the 13th century. It’s a peaceful place to relax and enjoy stunning views of the Fort and city. Many a tired tourist sprawls on the front lawn to recuperate after sightseeing.
Rao Jodha Desert Rock Park The Rao Jodha Desert Rock Park was developed in 2006, with the aim of restoring the natural ecology of a large rocky wasteland area next to the Fort. Neglected for many years, an invasive thorny shrub overran the park. After the bush was eradicated, more than 80 native species of rock-loving plants from the Thar desert were grown there. The Park extends across 72 hectares (around 200 acres) of rehabilitated land and sits in the lee of Mehrangarh Fort. The park is criss-crossed with walking trails that take you up to the city walls, around Devkund lake, spotting local and migratory birds, butterflies and reptiles. It’s interesting to explore at different times of the year, as its foliage changes with the seasons. Visit in the early morning or late afternoon for the most pleasant temperatures.
Umaid Bhawan Palace Clearly visible to the south of the city and completed only in 1944, this is the last great palace built in India. The Maharaja of Jodhpur, Gaj Singh II lives here to this day, but half the building has been converted to a 5-star hotel and there is also a small museum on grounds. The construction of the palace started in 1929 for palace for Maharaja Umaid Singh and was designed by the British architect Henry Lanchester and took more than 3000 workers 15 years to complete its 365 rooms, at a cost of around ₹11 million. The building is mortarless, and incorporates 100 wagon loads of Makrana marble and Burmese teak in the interior. Apparently its construction began as a royal job-creation program during a time of severe drought. The museum which includes photos of the elegant art-deco interior plus an eccentric collection of elaborate clocks, is the only part open to casual visitors. A few highly polished classic vintage cars, part of the Maharaja’s collection are also on display in glass enclosures in front of the museum, by the entrance gate.
Clock Tower The century-old clock tower is a city landmark surrounded by the vibrant sounds, sights and smells of Sardar Market. The market is bordered by triple-arched gateways at its northern and southern ends. The narrow, winding lanes of the old city spread out in all directions from here. Westward, you plunge into the old city’s commercial heart, with crowded alleys and bazaars selling vegetables, spices, sweets, silver and handicrafts.
Toorji Ka Jhalra This geometrically handsome step-well (also known as a baori or wav) has been rejuvenated after decades as a rubbish dump. Its clean lines and clear, fish-filled water will leave you mesmerised. It’s a great place to just sit and watch, and the attached cafe adds further incentive for a visit.
With this we bid goodbye to Jodhpur and travel nearly 300 km in a westerly direction towards the border with Pakistan and the Thar Desert to Jaisalmer.
Jaisalmer – The Golden City In the heart of Thar or the Great Indian Desert, the town of Jaisalmer stands on a ridge of yellowish sandstone, and is crowned by the ancient Jaisalmer Fort. The town is known as the Golden City for its beautiful sun-soaked sand dunes, exuberant forts, and rich culture and traditions. Many of the houses and temples of both the fort, and of the town below, are built of finely sculptured sandstone, contributing to its name. Jaisalmer is named after Rawal Jaisal, a Bhati ruler who founded the city in 1156 AD. Jaisalmer means the Hill Fort of Jaisal. Apparently if you take in an aerial view of the town, it looks like an image of a prince sitting on the ridge of sand dunes, crowned by the Jaisalmer fort.
Jaisalmer Fort Called the Golden Fort because of te yellow sandstone used to construct it, Jaisalmer Fort is a living urban centre, with about 3000 people residing within its walls. It is honeycombed with narrow winding lanes, lined with houses and temples – along with a large number of handicraft shops, guesthouses and restaurants. The fort was founded in 1156 by the Rajput ruler Jaisal and reinforced by subsequent rulers, Jaisalmer Fort was the focus of a number of battles between the Bhatis, the Mughals of Delhi and the Rathores of Jodhpur. In recent years, the fabric of the fort has faced increasing conservation problems due to unrestricted water use caused, in the most part, by high tourist numbers. The sunset from the fort is particularly appealing due to the honey golden hue which drapes the fort because of the material used to construct it.
Havelis Jaisalmer is also known for the fairy-tale architecture of its magnificent historic havelis (mansions), located both inside and out of the fort. Many can be found in the narrow lanes about 10 minutes’ walk north of the fort. In this area, the 19th century Patwa Haveli is the city’s biggest and most important one. It’s actually a cluster of five mansions built by a wealthy Jain trader and his sons between 1800 and 1860 who made their fortunes in brocade and jewellery. Kothari’s Patwa Haveli is particularly impressive, with its breath-taking intricate stonework and artwork, and has been converted to a museum. In the same area, the distinctively shaped Salim Singh Haveli and extraordinary Nathmal Haveli are worth visiting as well. Inside Nathmal Haveli, the beautiful gold paintings are a highlight.
Jain Temples Within the fort walls is a maze-like, interconnecting treasure trove of seven beautiful yellow sandstone Jain temples, dating from the 15th and 16th centuries. The intricate carving rivals that of the marble Jain temples in Ranakpur and Mt Abu, and has an extraordinary quality because of the soft, warm stone.
Bada Bagh Bada Bagh, also called Barabagh (literally Big Garden) is a garden complex about 6 km north of Jaisalmer on the way to Ramgarh. Overlooking a mango grove sits a set of royal cenotaphs, or chhatris, of Maharajas of Jaisalmer state, starting with Jait Singh III (d. 1528), built by the son of the Rawal Jait Singh III, Maharawal Lunkaran Singh. Later, with time 104 members of royal family graves and their chattries were built. Maharawal Lunkaran Singh also completed the construction of Jait Bandh, a dam project that was started by his father Rawal Jait Singh III which stands useful till date for conservation of water.
Sam Sand Dunes The silky Sam dunes, 41km west of Jaisalmer along a good sealed road, are one of the most popular excursions from the city. About 2km long the dunes are undeniably among the most picturesque in the region. Some camel safaris camp here, but many more people just roll in for sunset, to be chased across the sands by tenacious camel owners offering short rides. Plenty more people stay overnight in one of the several tent resorts near the dunes. The place acquires something of a carnival atmosphere from late afternoon till the next morning due to the cultural performances, making it somewhere to avoid if you’re after a solitary desert experience. On the way to the Dunes, Kuldhara Abandoned Village is a spooky but interesting place to visit. If you’d prefer a more peaceful desert sojourn, the dunes around Khuri village in Desert National Park an hour southwest of Jaisalmer are more suitable.
Thar Heritage Museum and Desert Culture Center and Museum This private museum has an intriguing assortment of Jaisalmer artefacts, from turbans, musical instruments, fossils and kitchen equipment, to displays on birth, marriage, death and opium customs. It’s brought alive by the guided tour you’ll get from its founder, local historian and folklorist LN Khatri. The Desert Culture Center and Museum, near Gadsisar Lake, is deservedly popular. It’s run by a local historian and teacher, who also runs the Folklore Museum. The museum tells the history of Rajasthan’s princely states and has exhibits on traditional Rajasthani culture. The diverse collection includes regional musical instruments, old currency, traditional jewelry worn by desert women, textiles, hunting items, royal memorabilia, artillery, and armor. It also hosts nightly half-hour puppet shows with English commentary.
Gadisar Lake Gadsisar Lake, also called Gadisar Lake, is a huge artificial reservoir built by Maharawal Gadsi Singh in the 14th century and situated on the southeast edge of the city. It provided the only water supply to the town until 1965. The many small temples and shrines that surround the lake make it an inviting place to relax and spend some time. Migratory waterfowl are an added attraction in winter, along with numerous catfish in the water that love to be fed. Boats are available for hire nearby too.
In addition to the cities mentioned, there are a few other places which are equally entrancing in the state.
Sawai Madhopur – For The Love Of Tigers Founded by Maharaja Sawai Madho Singh in 1763, Sawai Madhopur is home to the Ranthambhore National Park, which is best known for inhabiting tigers. The Ranthambore forests were the hunting grounds for the Kachwaha Rajputs of Jaipur till India received its independence. Aer independence it was established as the Sawai Madhopur Game Sanctuary and it rose to being a tiger reserve in 1973 and got its national park status in 1980. The Ranthambhore Palace and Fort, a 10th century historic palace, located in the heart of the national park, is another tourist attraction here and has been declared a UNESCO heritage as it imbibes a vast cultural history of the several clans, kings, and architectures. The best time to visit is between November and February for it is easy to spot tigers at the national park during that period.
Pushkar – The Home of the Largest Camel Fair in India Known for the world famous five day Camel Fair, where people from nearby villages and towns come to trade camels and livestock, from which takes place in the Hindu month of Kartika (October/November), the town of Pushkar lies about 150 km southwest of Jaipur. For the rest of the year Pushkar remains a prominent Hindu pilgrimage town, humming with puja (prayers), bells, drums and devotional songs. The town wraps itself around a holy lake featuring 52 bathing ghats and 400 milky-blue temples, including one of the world’s few Brahma temples. The main street is one long bazaar, selling anything to tickle a traveller’s fancy, from hippy-chic tie-dye to didgeridoos. The result is a muddle of religious and tourist scenes. Yet, despite the commercialism, the town remains enchantingly mystic and relaxed. It is believed that a dip in the famed Pushkar Lake cleanses all your sins and will cure all skin diseases.
So are you tempted to go visit Rajasthan after reading this post? I definitely am! Hoping to make a trip there sooner than later.
After travelling to the north–easternmost part of India, let’s change directions and go to its western end. We will be visiting the Indian state of Rajasthan in the next few posts.
What comes to mind when you hear the word Rajasthan? To me the word and the state has a very exotic flavour to it. When I hear this word, I conjure up images of palaces, sand, deserts, men and women in colourful attire and camels!
The name Rajasthan can be translated into “Land of Kings” and this state with its erstwhile many princely states is literally just that. The state came into being after India’s independence on 30 March 1949 when the various princely states merged into the Indian Union.
Rajasthan is located on the north-western side of India, where it comprises most of the wide and inhospitable Thar Desert and the state shares a border with the Pakistani provinces of Punjab to the northwest and Sindh to the west, along the Sutlej-Indus river valley. Elsewhere it is bordered by five other Indian states: Punjab to the north; Haryana and Uttar Pradesh to the northeast; Madhya Pradesh to the southeast; and Gujarat to the southwest.
The oldest reference to Rajasthan is found in a stone inscription dated back to 625 A.D. The print mention of the name “Rajasthan” appears in the 1829 publication Annals and Antiquities of Rajast’han or the Central and Western Rajpoot States of India, while the earliest known record of “Rajputana” as a name for the region is in George Thomas’s 1800 memoir Military Memories. Parts of what is now Rajasthan were partly part of the Vedic Civilisation and Indus Valley Civilization.
So with a brief history of the state done and dusted, let’s go visiting! I’ll be splitting up the state into two posts and today’s post will be about the cities of Jaipur and Udaipur, two of Rajasthan’s most famous cities.
Most tourists start their sojourn in the state from its capital city of Jaipur, the largest city in the state. Founded by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh in 1727 after whom the city is named. The city is also referred to as ‘Pink City’ for its trademark pink colour in the buildings across the old city. The best time to visit Jaipur is in the winter months between September and March as the summer months are extremely hot with temperatures reaching to highs of 40 degree celcius. The city forms part of the Golden Triangle in Indian tourism along with New Delhi and Agra. Some of the must-see sights in Jaipur include:
Amber Fort and Palace Located 11 km north of the city centre of Jaipur with a bit of a hike to the fort from the town, this massive fort-palace complex built in hybrid Hindu-Muslim style dates back to Raja Man Singh and was the royal palace of the Kachwahas from 1600 to 1727. The name has nothing to do with the rather pretty pastel yellow colour; instead, the fort is named after the town of Amber, in turn named after the goddess Amba. The main sights within the fort include the Sheesh Mahal, adorned with thousands of mirror tiles on the walls and ceiling. The fort/palace grounds are sprawling and the information panels are somewhat limited, so it might be worth getting an audio guide or a real guide. Make sure you see the Amber Light Show.
The City Palace Famed for being the seat of the Maharaja of Jaipur, the City Mahal, which lies in the heart of the Old City, includes the Mubarak Mahal and the Chandra Mahal which are popular for their excellent architecture. The ruler of Amber, Jay Singh II built the palace complex between 1729 and 1732. The palace is a delightful blend of Mughal and Rajasthani architecture and has a museum inside which is a must-see while exploring the palace.
Jantar Mantar Observatory Adjacent to the City Palace is the Jantar Mantar, an observatory begun by Jai Singh II in 1728 that resembles a collection of bizarre giant sculptures. Built for measuring the heavens, the name is derived from the Sanskrit yanta mantar, meaning ‘instrument of calculation’, and in 2010 it was added to India’s list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The observatory has 14 massive astronomical instruments, Jantar Mantar is known for its clever use of geometrical patterns in the form of instruments. Paying for a local guide is highly recommended if you wish to learn how each fascinating instrument works.
Hawa Mahal Jaipur’s most-distinctive landmark, the Hawa Mahal is an extraordinary pink-painted, delicately honeycombed hive that rises a dizzying five storeys. It was constructed in 1799 by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh to enable ladies of the royal household to watch the life and processions of the city. The main feature of the building are the 953 small intricately designed jharokas or windows. The top offers stunning views over Jantar Mantar and the City Palace in one direction and over Sireh Deori Bazaar in the other. An interesting feature of the building is that it does not stand on a foundation, with the structure leaning at a position of 87 degrees. The best time to visit the Hawa Mahal is during the early mornings when it is not so crowded. Also note that the museum in the building is closed on Fridays.
Nahargarh Fort Built in 1734 and extended in 1868, this sturdy fort overlooks the city from a sheer ridge to the north. The story goes that the fort was named after Nahar Singh, a dead prince whose restless spirit was disrupting construction. Whatever was built in the day crumbled in the night. The prince agreed to leave on condition that the fort was named for him. The fort is the smallest of the three forts surrounding Jaipur and has glorious views over Man Sagar lake and the vast sprawl of Jaipur. The fort also houses the (relatively) compact Madhavendra Bhawan palace, although its former splendour is fading fast under a new layer of graffiti and pigeon droppings.
Jaigarh Fort A 1 km walk uphill from Amber Fort, the Jaigarh or Victory Fort was never conquered in battle and was considered the strongest of the three forts in the area. It is best known as the site of the world’s largest cannon, the Jaivana, which was test-fired only once — according to legend, despite using only the half the design amount of gunpowder, the cannonball flew 35 km! A better reason to visit the fort, though, are the scenic gardens at the other end and the spectacular views over the Amber Fort and the hills around. The remains of the foundry where the Jaivana (and many more) were cast are also in the fort grounds.
Government Central (Albert Hall) Museum This museum is housed in the spectacularly florid Albert Hall, south of the Old City. The building was designed by Sir Swinton Jacob, and combines elements of English and North Indian architecture, as well as huge friezes celebrating the world’s great cultures. It was known as the pride of the new Jaipur when it opened in 1887. The grand old building hosts an eclectic array of tribal dress, dioramas, sculptures, miniature paintings, carpets, musical instruments and even an Egyptian mummy.
Isarlat Piercing the skyline near the City Palace is this unusual minaret, erected in the 1740s by Jai Singh II’s son and successor Iswari. The entrance is around the back of the row of shops fronting Chandpol Bazaar – take the alley 50m west of the minaret along the bazaar or go via the Atishpol entrance to the City Palace compound, 150m east of the minaret. You can spiral to the top of the 43m minaret for excellent views.
Galtaji Mandir Galtaji is an ancient Hindu pilgrimage site situated 10 km from Jaipur on Jaipur-Agra highway near Sisodia Rani Garden. The main temple here is temple of Galtaji in constructed in pink stone. The temple has a number of pavilions with rounded roofs, exquisitely carved pillars and painted walls. This temple is one of the most visited temples in the city and The temple is surrounded by natural springs and reservoirs that are considered holy .There are also seven tanks or kunds here.
Galwh Bagh (aka The Monkey Temple) and Suriya Mandir (aka The Sun Temple) Both the temples are located on the eastern edge of the city. Both locals and tourists come here to feed the surprisingly tame monkeys, use the temples, and enjoy the views. You can climb to the top of the hill and then down into the valley to see the Monkey Temple, all the while enjoying the company of countless monkeys, goats, and other animals. At the top of the hill, you turn right to reach the Sun Temple for one of the best views of the city, especially at sunset. Monkey food is available for purchase at the bottom of the hill.
Govind Devji Temple For Vaishnavites, particularly followers of Lord Krishna, this is the most important temple in the world after Vrindavan. The statue of Lord Krishna presiding in the temple was brought to Jaipur from Vrindavan during the Mughal era. According to popular legend, Lord Krishna’s idol in the temple looks exactly like Krishna’s form during his incarnation on Earth. The temple is located in the City Palace complex.
Moving on from Jaipur, lets make our way to Udaipur, which is located around 350 km southwest of Jaipur. The city is also called the The City of Lakes or the Venice of the East. A truly exotic city snuggled under the Aravalli hills beside the tranquil lake Picchola. Fantastical palaces, temples, havelis and countless narrow, crooked, timeless streets add to the city’s natural charms. Geographically, Udaipur is located in the southernmost part of Rajasthan, near the Gujarat border, surrounded by the Aravali Range, which separates it from Thar Desert.
Udaipur was founded in 1553 by the Sisodiya Rajput Ruler Maharana Udai Singh II. The Mewar Rajputs founded the city to relocate their capital from Chittor to a more secure location. Today, most of the palaces have been converted into hotels, thus attracting a huge no. of tourist crowd to this city.
Dubbed “the most romantic spot on the continent of India” by British administrator James Tod, Udaipur is a tourist destination and is known for its history, culture, scenic locations and the Rajput-era palaces. It is popularly known as the “City of Lakes” because of its sophisticated lake system. It has seven lakes surrounding the city.
As with other destinations in Rajasthan, the best time to visit is in the cooler months between September to March. So let’s visit the attractions in Udaipur.
City Palace Complex Constructed in the year 1559 by Maharana Udai Singh II and surmounted by balconies, towers and cupolas towering over the lake, the imposing City Palace is Rajasthan’s largest palace, with a facade 244m long and 30.4m high. Situated on the banks of the Pichola lake, the palace complex is a conglomeration of structures (including 11 separate smaller palaces) built and extended by various maharanas in a blend of European, Medieval and Chinese styles, though it still manages to retain a surprising uniformity of design.
Lake Pichola Created in 1362 and extended by Maharana Udai Singh II, the founder of Udaipur, Lake Pichola is named after the village Picholi in which it is situated. Originally created for drinking and irrigation purposes for the village, today the lake sits on the shore of the city palace, limpidly reflecting the blue-grey Aravalli mountains on its mirror-like surface. You can also go boating on the lake, which is a popular haunt for both locals and tourists alike.
Fateh Sagar Lake An artificial lake constructed by Maharana north of Lake Pichola in 1678 and to the northwest of Udaipur. Within the confines of Fateh Sagar Lake, there are three small islands. The largest of these is Nehru Park. The second island houses a public park with an impressive water-jet fountain, and the third is the address for the Udaipur Solar Observatory. Every year the Hariyali Amavasya Mela (Green New Moon Fair) is organized at the lake precincts in the month of August/September.
Bagore ki Haveli A mansion built in the 18th century on the waterfront of Lake Pichola at Gangori Ghat by Amir Chand Badwa, the Prime Minister of Mewar it is now a museum. The Haveli became the residence of Maharana Shakti Singh of Bagore in the year 1878 and hence the name Bagore Ki Haveli. It has over a hundred rooms, with displays of costumes and modern art. The building has a large and exquisite collection of Mewar paintings and glassworks. There is a nightly one-hour long dance performance at 7pm.
Sajjan Garh Perched on top of a distant hill like a fairy-tale castle, this melancholy, neglected late-19th-century palace was constructed by Maharana Sajjan Singh. Originally an astronomical centre, it became a monsoon palace and hunting lodge. Now government owned, it’s in a sadly dilapidated state, but visitors stream up here for the marvellous views, particularly at sunset. It’s 5km west of the old city as the crow flies, about 9km by the winding road.
Jagmandir Island The palace on Jagmandir Island, about 800m south of Jagniwas, was built by Maharana Karan Singh II in 1620, added to by his successor Maharana Jagat Singh, and then changed very little until the last few years when it was partly converted into another (smaller) hotel. When lit up at night it has more romantic sparkle to it than the Lake Palace. As well as the seven hotel rooms, the island has a restaurant, bar and spa, which are open to visitors.
Jagdish Temple Built in the year 1651, Jagdish Temple is Udaipur’s largest temple. An estimated 1.5 million Indian Rupees were spent on this stunning Indo-Aryan architectural marvel. It is dedicated to Lord Vishnu and also houses other shrines dedicated to Lord Shiva, Ganesh, the Sun God, and Goddess Shakti. This temple should be visited not only to oer your devotion but also to witness beautiful wall carvings, elephant sculptures and for the stunning architecture.
Nathdwara Nathdwara is an important hindu pilgrimage site for Lord Krishna devotees and is commonly called Shrinathji, after the presiding deity. This place is around 45 km from the centre of Udaipur. A famous legend is associated with the Shrinathji temple here and therefore throngs of devotees come every day to pay their respects to the lord. Apart, from being a pilgrimage site, Nathdwara is famous for a specific style of paintings dedicated to Shrinathji as well as mouth-watering cuisines. The cultural beauty of town has led to it being called ‘The Apollo of Mewar’
Mount Abu Get some respite from the scorching summers in Mount Abu, the only hill station in Rajasthan which is 163 km from Udaipur. Mount Abu is also the place to Five Unique Temples of Dilwara, which are famous worldwide for their architectural beauty. It’s picturesque beauty is also something to look forward to if visitors are looking for a laid back vacation with some stunning viewpoints.
India, my birth country is a fascinating country with a varied and diverse geography which spans from the cold mountains of Kashmir to the tropical south India, from the hilly and beautiful terrains of the northeast to the arid desert of the west. This country has something for everyone, irrespective of what your travel plans are. I have barely scratched the surface visiting places, and so this series will allow me to plan a trip across my country, with the intention to show GG & BB where their roots lie.
I’ve always been fascinated by the north eastern part of India and have badgered my parents to take me on a holiday there since I was a school girl. But political instability and insurgency in the region, it has remained a dream all these years. I am hoping that I will be able to visit this part of the country very soon.
The easternmost region of India comprises eight states – Arunachal Pradesh, Assam, Manipur, Meghalaya, Mizoram, Nagaland, Sikkim, and Tripura. The Siliguri Corridor in West Bengal, connects this region with the eastern part of the country. The eight states share about 99% of their borders with other countries including China, Myanmar, Bangladesh, Nepal and Bhutan.
Residents in this region look slightly different compared to the average Indian, as the earliest settlers may have been speakers from the Austroasiatic and Tibeto-Burman languages of Southeast Asia.
Beautiful and serene, the best time to visit this region is between November and May due to the very pleasant weather during these months.
So where would I go and see during my trip to northeast India? Read on…
I will break this post into two parts, because due to the sheer beauty of the region, one long post will not make it. In part one, we will explore the contentious state of Arunachal Pradesh, the largest of the northeastern state of Assam and the state of Meghalaya. In Part 2, we will look at the other states, viz Sikkim, Tripura, Nagaland, Manipur and Mizoram.
Declared a UNESCO Heritage Site, the National Park is home to the one horned rhinos which attract tourists from all over the world. Spotting a one-horned rhinoceros in its stomping yard is an experience that you can live to tell your grandchildren. It will be unlike any lore ever told. This undisturbed acres long stretch of forests and marshlands is located in the heart of Assam and is visited by hordes of tourists every year. The notable one-horned Rhino is a major attraction in Kaziranga which is an endangered species in the world. Other than that Elephants, wild water buffaloes and Swamp Deers can also be seen on a safari. You can either book an Elephant Safari or Jeep safari to explore the park. The best time to visit the park is between November to April. Note that the park is closed during the monsoon months.
Literally translated to the “royal palace,” the Talatal Ghar was built by Swargadeo Singha in the 18th century. The 7 storied palace is not your usual palace, which serves up a heavy dose of grandeur. Its modesty and unusual architecture are a delight to witness as it offers a truly enriching experience. So, if you’re a history buff, make sure you visit this place on your next trip.
The river island is situated in the mighty Brahmaputra, and is one amazing place to see in the North East. It is a cultural hub of the region, with a number of tribes calling it their home. The size of the island was originally 1200 sq. km, but it has now come down to just 420 sq. km. due to the erosion from the Brahmaputra. It is now a strong contender as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Majuli calls the cultural capital of Assam and is inhibited by tribal people whose occupation is mostly fishing. Majuli heavily relies on waterways so do not forget to take motorboat or ferry ride. Nevertheless, it’s an astonishing place to witness on your trip. The islands of Majuli are being eroded by the Brahmaputra every year. They might last only a couple of years more so do visit them while they are still on the map!
Set atop Nilachal hills, this unique and ancient temple has recognized and celebrated the biological process of menstruation in women since forever. The temple is dedicated to Kamakhya Devi who is also called as the “bleeding goddess.” The story of its origin revolves around a story that involves Lord Shiva and Goddess Sati.
Dibrugarh is the largest tea producing district located on the upper Assam area, right on the banks of river Brahmaputra. The lush green tea gardens and the vastness of Brahmaputra attract hordes of tourists to Dibrugarh every year. It is considered to be one of the perfect lands for tea plantation in the entire Northeastern region.
Situated at a height of 10,000 feet in the picturesque and scenic mountain town of Tawang, the 400 year old Tawang Monastery, which is recognised as the second largest in the world, after Lhasa gives a breathtaking view of the valley. Home to 450 monks, this is the perfect place to visit for a surreal experience. This place is popular as the birth place of the Dalai Lama and is the largest Buddhist monastery in the entire country. You can also sit and just admire the captivating view of the Tawand River in the evening.
One of the prettiest sights of Tawang, this lake is a must visit in Arunachal Pradesh. The high-altitude lake, which is situated at nearly 4300 feet, is a picturesque natural body with a fascinating ambience. Natural life flourishes all around the shores of the lake, making it a very good place to enjoy the serenity and calm reflection. The lake is frozen through most part of the year except in the summer months from April to May. You can easily trek up to the lake and have a fun-filled picnic by its shores.
The Ziro Valley is one of the best places to see in North East as it presents you with some memorable views that are going to be etched in your memory forever. The valley is most famous for its three day and night rock concert, which is held annually towards the end of September. A flat land amidst the sky jutted mountains with around five villages, the verdant rice field, in-line tribal huts, vibrant and colourful attires and accessories of the Apatani people make the Ziro valley the perfect holiday destination.
Also known as the Bong Bong falls, the serenity of these 100 meter tall falls are to be seen to be believed. Plummeting from an elevation of about 100 meters, Nuranang falls is a pristine waterfall hidden in the thick forest stretches on your journey from Tawang to Bomdila. This virgin waterfall is famous as BTK, Bap Teng Kang waterfalls and can be located on the way through Tawang towards Zemithang. It is one of the places in Northeast India that defines the hidden beauty of the region with its crystal clear pools and green surroundings.
Named after the famous Indian actress, Madhuri Dixit, the lake is one of the best places to see in the North East. Previously it was known as Shungaster Lake. A little army cafeteria near the lake serves up some delicious momos, which you can enjoy while soaking the peace around.
On the way from Bomdila to Tawang, enjoy the magnificent vistas of the Gorichen Peak. It is one of the toughest treks in the northeastern part of India as the peak is located at a height of 22,500 feet between Tawang and West Kameng districts. Gorichen peak is roughly 164 kilometre from Tawang Town, and it shares its border with China in the North. Another name for Gorichen Peak is Sa-Nga Phu, which according to the native tribe Monpa is a sacred peak that protects them from all the evils.
The third largest national park in the country area wise, the Namdapha National Park serves as an abode to the rarest of floras and faunas and the many endangered species. You can trek, hike or set out on a jungle safari to spot Indian Elephants, Tigers, Leopards, Black Bear, and Bison etc.
The wettest places in the world finds its home in Meghalaya. While Cherrapunji is famous for its living root bridges, formed due to incessant rain, it is also popular for being one of the wettest places in the world. Mawsynram is the wettest between the two, with a recorded annual rainfall of 11,872 millimetres, making Cherrapunji the second wettest place in India that receives an average annual rainfall of 11,777 millimetres. Both places are located on the Southern side of East Khasi hills and is beautiful during and post-monsoon with innumerable waterfalls and mist-laden valleys.
Located in the heart of Meghalaya, the Jaintia hills are stuffed with limestone deposits and the hills have a number of caves for the explorer in you to enjoy and soothe your mind. Spelunking in these caves can lead you to a number of shallow and some long caves, making it an adventurous attraction in the region.
A town nestled in the West Jaintia hills, the town of Dawki is known for its beautiful lake. The crystal clear Umngot River in Dawki is one of the cleanest rivers in the world that you can clearly see the bottom. Every year, people visit Dawaki to see the crystal clear waters and take boat rides in an almost transperant water. The place is nestled in the West Jantai hill that has an active tourism and every year people visit Dawki to boat around this iconic river where the river bed is unbelievably clear. The suspension bridge and the diveable river hotbeds can lure you into entering the water to take a dip.
If you haven’t been to the fourth highest waterfall in the world which plunges from a height of 1100 feet, then now is the time to do so! With a mere 5 km drive from the stunning land of Cherrapunji, a short trek would lead you up to this gorgeous ultramarine pool where you can see the pristine waterfall flowing from up above. Since it can only be viewed when there is no mist, avoid going here in monsoon and savour the beautiful views from the viewing gallery.
Just 17 km distance from Shillong, this mesmerizing lake will sweep you off your feet. Surrounded by dense coniferous forests, this man-made reservoir is spread over 222 square km a and is one of the main sites for watersports! The beauty of the lake is enhanced by the encircling Khasi hills which bestow the travellers with unparalleled landscapes
Acclaimed to be Asia’s cleanest village in 2003, this village is an excellent example of sustainable and eco-friendly living. Even the dustbins are made of Bamboo just like the sky tower which is around 85 ft. The trek to the Living Root Bridge starts from Mawlynnong Village and it is one of those tourist places which is in everyone’s itinerary. This pretty village is spotless clean outlined with thatched Khasi huts. The village is very close to Bangladesh and around 100 KM from Shillong and is really the cleanest village in India.
The name Laitlum literally stands for “The end of hills,” or “the end of the world.” The Laitlum Canyon is situated in the East Khasi hills enabling a vast and panoramic view of the entire valley of canyons. These picturesque rocky formations are a delight to trekkers, nature lovers, photographer, and adventurers. The place is quite secluded and is not accessed easily, but if you do manage to get there, the beauty of the place is unique, unparalleled and incomparable. The best time to visit is either in the early morning hours or during sunset.
This cave is one of the many caves in Northeast India which has enough light passing for the travellers to see the limestone structures and uneven walls. This natural marvel has undergone years of abrasion and underground water exposures that the stalactites and stalagmites are carved out in a various structure that leaves you spellbound. Being the only lit cave in Meghalaya, Mawsmai cave is a crowd puller.
‘Blood had begun to trickle down Asha’s starched cotton salwar, and once more she tried to will herself to stay calm. It was nothing. These things happened. ‘
But these things haven’t happened before. It’s August 1947, the night before India’s independence. It is also the night before Pakistan’s creation and the brutal Partition of the two countries.
Asha, a Hindu in a newly Muslim land, must flee to safety. She carries with her a secret she has kept even from Firoze, her Muslim lover, but Firoze must remain in Pakistan, and increasing tensions between the two countries mean the couple can never reunite.
Fifty years later in New York, Asha’s Indian granddaughter falls in love with a Pakistani, and Asha and Firoze, meeting again, at last, are faced with one more – final – choice.
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Memories and Such 
