Sacred Stones, Spaces, and Stories: Divya Desams Part 5

Hara Saabha Vimocchana Perumal Temple, Kandiyur, Tamil Nadu
The Hara Saabha Vimocchana Perumal Temple stands at Kandiyur, near Thiruvaiyaru in Tamil Nadu, not far from the banks of the Kaveri. Here, Vishnu is worshipped as Hara Saabha Vimocchana Perumal, “the one who freed Hara (Shiva) from his curse,” and Lakshmi as Kamalavalli Nachiyar. Unusually, this is also one of the rare temples where the Trimurti: Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva, are all present within the same sacred space.

The main legend starts with a mistake that even a god cannot easily undo. In an earlier time, both Brahma and Shiva had five heads. One day, Parvati came to worship her husband, but seeing two five-headed forms, she confused Brahma for Shiva and performed pada puja to him. Shiva was furious. In anger, he cut off one of Brahma’s heads. Because creation itself had been attacked, the severed head stuck to Shiva’s hand as a curse. He became Kapali, the one bearing the skull.

To shed this sin, Shiva wandered as Bhikshatana, the begging ascetic, going from place to place. At Thirukarambanoor (Uthamarkoil), part of the curse was removed. But it was only at Kandiyur, after worshipping Vishnu and taking a dip in the temple tank, that the skull finally fell from his hand. The water became Kapala Theertham, skull tank, and the lord here took the name Hara Saabha Vimocchana Perumal or Vishnu, who removed the curse of Hara (Shiva). In this story, Shiva actually builds a temple for Vishnu as thanks, and also establishes a Shiva temple nearby.

Other stories pile on the same theme of ego, mistake, and atonement. Sage Bhrigu once wanted to test which of the three: Brahma, Vishnu, or Shiva, was supreme. He insulted each. When he reached Vishnu, he kicked the lord in the chest. Instead of reacting in anger, Vishnu apologised for any pain the sage might have felt in his foot. Later, Bhrigu regretted his act and came here to seek forgiveness. King Mahabali, known from the Vamana avatar story, and Chandra, the moon god who seduced his guru’s wife, are also said to have expiated their sins at Kandiyur.

Historically, the temple is traced to the Medieval Cholas, around the late 8th century CE. Stone inscriptions point to early Chola patronage, with later additions by Vijayanagara rulers and the Madurai Nayaks, who left their mark on many Kaveri-side temples. These records mention land grants, donations for lamps and festivals, and support for temple staff; signs that Kandiyur held a steady role in the religious and economic life of the region.

There is a common local claim that Kandiyur is older than Srirangam and goes back to the Treta Yuga. From a historian’s view, that is more devotional rhetoric than evidence. What can be grounded is the Chola-period base, with continuous use and renovation over more than a thousand years. The site’s identity as a place to clear brahmahatti dosha and similar sins also shows up in texts and oral traditions, which is why it is counted among specific “sin-clearing” kshetras.

An unusual modern footnote is the link to Tipu Sultan. Some accounts say Tipu fought and won a battle near Kandiyur and later became a devotee of this temple. Whether that devotion was deep or diplomatic, the detail again undercuts rigid lines: a Muslim ruler connecting to a Vishnu shrine known for helping even Shiva out of trouble.

Architecturally, Hara Saabha Vimocchana Perumal Temple is a compact but classical Dravidian complex. A granite wall surrounds the campus, enclosing the shrines and temple tanks. The main Rajagopuram is a five-tiered gateway tower that faces east, leading into the prakaram. The overall layout is proportionate rather than massive, which fits its setting near Thiruvaiyaru rather than in a bustling town centre.

Inside, Vishnu stands as Hara Saabha Vimocchana Perumal, facing east, with his consort Kamalavalli Nachiyar enshrined separately. The moolavar is in a standing posture rather than reclining, which matches the temple’s theme of active intervention and relief. Surrounding shrines include those for Brahma and Saraswati (though these have suffered damage over time), as well as a nearby Shiva temple associated with the same myth cycle.

The usual set of mandapams, pillared halls, and circumambulatory paths is present. Pillars carry carvings of deities, guardians, and small narrative scenes. The tank, known as Kapala Theertham or Kamala Pushkarani, is central to the legend; this is where Shiva’s skull-hand curse finally falls away. The architecture isn’t experimental, but it is consistent with Chola-Vijayanagara-Nayak layering: solid granite, functional courtyards, and a clear axial path from gopuram to sanctum.

Worship here follows the standard Vaishnava agamic pattern, with a local accent. There are six daily pujas, from early morning to night. Each round involves alangaram (decoration and adornment), neivedyam (food offering), and deepa aradanai (waving of lamps), accompanied by nagaswaram, tavil, and chanting of Vedic mantras. The deity is treated not as an abstract idea but as a living presence who must be woken, bathed, fed, and put to rest.

Four main annual festivals mark the temple calendar. The biggest is the Panguni Brahmotsavam in the Tamil month of Panguni (March–April), when the utsava murti is taken in procession across the streets, with vahanams, music, and crowds of devotees. Other festivals include Vaikunta Ekadashi and special days linked to Shiva and Brahma because of the shared myth. The underlying theme in many observances is release from curses and sins, so devotees often perform specific sankalpa pujas here when they feel stuck in life, especially with guilt, family rifts, or long-standing problems.

Local participation is strong. Families sponsor parts of the Brahmotsavam or take responsibility for alankaram on certain days. People come not just to “get something” but to keep alive a bond their parents and grandparents had with the place. That continuity is one of the temple’s hidden strengths.

Reaching Kandiyur is usually done from Thanjavur or Thiruvaiyaru. The temple lies a short drive from Thiruvaiyaru, along roads that run past green fields and close to the Kaveri and its branches. The approach feels more like entering a large village than a town. There are a few shops selling flowers, coconuts, and prasadam, but it is not a noisy bazaar like you see at big pilgrimage hubs. On ordinary days, the temple is calm. After leaving your footwear outside, you pass under the Rajagopuram into a quiet prakaram. There is usually enough time to stand in front of the main sanctum without being hurried. Many people also make a point of visiting the tank, even if they do not bathe in it. They at least touch the water or sit for a while at the edge, remembering the story of Shiva’s curse breaking there.

Pilgrims who care about both Shiva and Vishnu often visit the nearby Shiva temple on the same trip. For them, the whole experience is about healing a split that later polemics created—if Shiva himself came here seeking help from Vishnu, then maybe it is silly for humans to fight over which god is “higher.” In that sense, the geography of the place, the Vishnu shrine, the Shiva shrine, and the tank, gently pushes people to think in terms of connection, not competition.

The temple is mentioned in the Divya Prabandham and sits within the Kumbakonam–Thanjavur belt, an area thick with temples, music, and ritual culture. Its distinctive theme: Vishnu freeing Shiva from a curse, has given it a special place in local storytelling and in the way priests explain doctrine to laypeople. If you grow up hearing that even Shiva had to apologise and seek help, it becomes harder to justify a stubborn ego in your own life. There is also a long-standing belief that worship here helps relieve brahmahatti dosha and other serious karmic burdens. That has shaped how people talk about the temple: not as a place to ask for quick material gain, but as somewhere you go for deeper cleansing when you know you have gone badly wrong. At the same time, it is fair to say that Hara Saabha Vimocchana Perumal Temple has not had the same broad cultural reach as Srirangam or Chidambaram. Its impact is more focused: it speaks strongly to those who move in both Shaiva and Vaishnava worlds, and to those who think seriously about fault, repair, and responsibility.

Today, the temple is administered by the Hindu Religious and Endowment Board of the Tamil Nadu government. Recent renovations, including work on the gateway tower and key shrines, were taken up in the early 2000s under the guidance of traditional acharyas. Efforts continue to maintain the stone structures, clean the tank, and manage festival crowds without turning the place into a tourist circus. Visitor traffic is moderate. Devotees mostly come from Tamil Nadu and neighbouring states, often combining Kandiyur with other Kumbakonam-area Divya Desams or with the Sapta Sthana Shiva temples around Thiruvaiyaru. A smaller number of history and architecture enthusiasts also visit, interested in the Chola-Nayak fabric and the Trimurti aspect of the site.

Within the Divya Desam circuit, Hara Saabha Vimocchana Perumal Temple at Kandiyur stands out for one clear reason: this is where Shiva came to seek help and was forgiven. The temple’s very name encodes that story of curse and release. Its history as a Chola-era Vishnu shrine, later shaped by Vijayanagara and Nayak hands, shows how a theological idea gets anchored in stone and kept alive through ritual and community. Here is a place that quietly undercuts religious one-upmanship. Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva all appear. All make mistakes, all grant or receive grace. The geography of tank, sanctum, and nearby Shiva shrine pushes a simple point: no one stands alone, and no one is above accountability. For the wider Indian spiritual heritage, Kandiyur adds a necessary note. It says that power without self-correction is dangerous, even for gods. It asks you to see confession, apology, and seeking help not as weakness, but as the turning point. In a time when religious identity often hardens into rivalry, a temple built on the story of one god freeing another from his worst act is worth taking seriously.

Thirukoodalur Temple, Aduthurai, Tamil Nadu
Also known as Aduthurai Perumal Koil or Jagath Rakshaka Perumal Temple, the Thirukoodalur temple stands on the banks of the Kaveri near Aduthurai in Thanjavur district. The presiding deity is Jagath Rakshaka Perumal, “the one who protects the world,” with his consort Pushpavalli Thayar. This temple is closely linked to the Varaha avatar story and to King Ambarisha. The name “Thirukoodalur” itself hints at its character: a place where beings “koodal” come together for help, cleansing, and reunion.

The temple’s core myth connects it to the Varaha avatar. In the well-known story, the asura Hiranyaksha drags Bhudevi, the earth goddess, down into the netherworld. Vishnu takes the form of Varaha, the boar, dives into the depths, slays the demon, and lifts the earth back up on his tusks. Many places claim a piece of this story. Here, the local version says that the devas gathered at this spot on the Kaveri, pleading with Vishnu to rescue the earth. Because they “koodiya” or assembled here before the rescue, the place is called Thirukoodalur, and the lord is Jagath Rakshaka, the protector of the world.

Another strong legend centres on King Ambarisha. He became so absorbed in devotion to Vishnu that he neglected his duties and let his army weaken. He also failed to properly receive Sage Durvasa when the sage passed by. Durvasa, known for his short fuse, cursed him. Ambarisha turned to Vishnu. The lord sent his discus, the Sudarshana Chakra, to chase the sage. When the discus bore down on him, Durvasa panicked, ran to all the other gods, and finally fell at Vishnu’s feet, asking for mercy. The curse was withdrawn, and the grateful king is said to have built this temple. That is why the deity here is also called Ambarisha Varadar.

More stories push the same “gathering” theme. One says all the rivers come regularly to the Kaveri to wash away the sins of those who bathed in them. Kaveri herself then felt burdened and went to Brahma for cleansing. He sent her to worship Vishnu at Thirukoodalur, where she was purified. Another legend tells of a parrot devoted to Vishnu that was shot down in a nearby forest. Vishnu appeared, restored it, and freed it from the karma of a previous birth. Yet another says that sages like Nandaka and many rishis assembled here to worship, and that a human couple, separated by social pressure, were reunited here by the lord’s grace.

Historically, the structural temple dates to the medieval Cholas in the late 8th century, before they rose as a major imperial power. Inscriptions and architectural style point to early Chola work, with later additions from the Vijayanagara kings and the Madurai Nayaks. A brick wall surrounds the complex, which is typical of many Kaveri-side temples from that era. Over the centuries, the temple has seen both growth and damage. Being close to the river has always been a risk. At some point, severe floods damaged large portions of the temple and even washed away some idols. According to tradition, Rani Mangammal, the Nayak queen-regent of Madurai in the 17th century, dreamt of the lord asking her to restore the shrine. She funded major renovations, recovered lost idols from the river, and even commissioned the temple chariot, known as the Ambarisha Ratham. The chariot was used in festivals at least into the mid-20th century. Later, Vijayanagara and Nayak patrons strengthened the temple’s defences, adding a bulwark to protect it from the Kaveri’s floods. Through all this, the spiritual identity of Thirukoodalur remained rooted in the idea of protection; both of the world and of this specific, vulnerable site.

Thirukoodalur is a classic but compact Dravidian temple. A brick wall encloses the shrines and the temple tank, giving a sense of clear boundary between temple space and the surrounding village. The Rajagopuram is a five-tier gateway that leads into the main prakaram, setting a vertical accent without overwhelming the rest of the site. In the central sanctum, the main deity, Jagath Rakshaka Perumal, stands facing east. He holds the usual Vishnu symbols: conch and discus, and his presence is calm but alert, which fits the “protector of the world” title. His consort, Pushpavalli Thayar, also known as Padmasani, has a separate shrine, facing south. The layout respects the standard east–west axis but keeps the overall footprint modest. This is not a sprawling temple-city like Srirangam; it feels like an intimate shrine with depth.

Architectural details include carved pillars, simple mandapams, and a temple tank linked to the Kaveri. The space near the sanctum includes a gap or feature that local belief identifies as a “centre point of the earth,” connecting back to the Varaha story. Some sources also mention a jackfruit tree behind the sanctum where the conch is believed to have manifested, tying into the Durvasa–Ambarisha story and the emphasis on Vishnu’s weapons as protectors. The style is not experimental. It is Chola-Vijayanagara-Nayak layering: granite bases, brick superstructures, and plastered gopurams. But the stories attached to each feature: the tank, the gap, the tree, give the architecture a lot more meaning than a quick glance reveals.

Daily worship follows the usual Vaishnava agamic routine, with six main pujas conducted through the day. Each includes alangaram, neivedyam, and deepa aradanai, accompanied by nagaswaram and tavil, with priests reciting Vedic texts and Divya Prabandham hymns. The emphasis, not surprisingly, is on protection and relief from burdens. The temple’s annual Brahmotsavam is a major event. The festival, held over several days, brings out the processional deity in different vahanams around the streets. The Ambarisha Ratham, though not used as often today, has a strong memory in the community and symbolizes the king’s gratitude for rescue. Vaikunta Ekadasi is also important, as in most Vishnu temples, and special pujas are performed on days connected with the Varaha avatar and with the Navagraha Ketu, since the temple is associated with Ketu in some traditions. People come here with specific hopes: to be freed from stubborn problems, to see family reconciled, to feel cleansed of long-standing guilt or confusion. Local practice includes bathing in the Kaveri and the temple tank before certain rites, echoing the story of the rivers coming to Kaveri and Kaveri then coming here for cleansing. The community participates strongly, funding decorations, cooking prasadam, and organising annadhanam during major festivals.

Reaching Thirukoodalur is relatively easy if you are in the Kumbakonam–Thanjavur belt. The temple lies roughly between Kumbakonam and Thiruvaiyaru, a short detour off the main road, about 25 km from Kumbakonam according to many guides. The drive usually takes you past fertile fields and close to the Kaveri. As with many Kaveri-side temples, the approach shifts your mood even before you arrive; the landscape itself helps you slow down. The village is quiet. There are a few shops near the temple gate selling flowers, lamps, and simple offerings. Once you leave your footwear and step under the gopuram, the space feels calm and contained. On normal days, Darshan is unhurried. You can stand and actually take in the standing figure of Jagath Rakshaka, the separate goddess shrine, and the modest inner mandapam. Pilgrims often walk down to the river or the tank, not just to perform rituals but to sit and reflect. If you are doing the nearby Divya Desam circuit, Thirukoodalur tends to slip in as a surprisingly “sticky” stop, a place that feels more personal than you might expect from a temple that does not have huge crowds or global fame.

In terms of classical literature, Thirukoodalur appears in the Nalayira Divya Prabandham. Thirumangai Alvar is said to have sung of the lord here, calling the place Pugunthaan Oor, the place where Vishnu went “into” the earth, tying back to the Varaha story. This textual mention secures its Divya Desam status and places it firmly in the spiritual geography of Sri Vaishnavism. Locally, the temple’s impact shows up more in practice than in big cultural products. The idea that this is a “Sangama Kshetram,” a confluence and gathering place, shapes how people speak about it. Families come to pray for reunion after conflict. Those carrying heavy regrets see it as a place to start over. Farmers and villagers link it strongly with the Kaveri’s cycles and with the hope that the “protector of the world” will also protect their crops and livelihoods.

Today, Thirukoodalur functions as an active temple under the usual state-managed framework, with daily pujas, regular festivals, and periodic renovation works. The flood risk is still there, but the old bulwark and more recent maintenance have made things more stable. Visitor numbers are moderate. Many are pilgrims doing multiple Kaveri-side temples in one trip, especially those interested in the nine Navagraha-linked temples, the Divya Desams in the Kumbakonam belt, or in Varaha-related sites.

Within the Divya Desam circuit, Thirukoodalur stands for gathering and protection. Devas gather to ask for the earth’s rescue. Rivers gather to cleanse themselves. A king and a sage clash and then reconcile. A separated couple comes back together. A queen centuries later steps in to restore a half-ruined shrine. The pattern repeats: things fall apart, and then, in this place, they are drawn back together. Historically, it is a late-8th-century Chola temple strengthened by later dynasties and by a queen who listened to her dream. Spiritually, it marks a point where Varaha, Ambarisha, Durvasa, Nandaka, Kaveri, and anonymous villagers all meet. In the broader map of Indian spiritual heritage, Thirukoodalur shows that deep ideas don’t only live in the big-name sites. They also live in quieter temples on riverbanks, where a standing Vishnu is remembered less as a judge and more as a protector who gathers scattered pieces: of land, of community, of personal life, and holds them together, at least for a while.

In My Hands Today…

Ramayana Unravelled: Lesser Known Facets of Rishi Vālmiki’s Epic – Ami Ganatra

No epic has moved the consciousness of millions like the Ramayana. The appeal of the story of Rama is such that it has inspired the imagination of countless storytellers over the centuries, across the length and breadth of the subcontinent. From Jain poets to Bhavabhuti, from Kamban to Goswami Tulsidas, many have retold the Ramayana in their own language, infusing their own unique flavour.

Though the story of Rama is much loved and well-known, questions prevail. Ramayana Unravelled attempts to address some key concerns: How did his childhood and youth shape Rama? Why did Rama agree to go on vanvas – was it only to obey his father or was there more to it? How was the relationship of Rama and Seeta? Is the Ramayana inherently misogynist, considering the characterisation of Seeta, Shurpanakha, Kaikeyi and Tara? What led to the downfall of Ravan?

Ami Ganatra takes the reader through the events of the Ramayana, resolving conundrums and underlining the reasons the epic continues to be cherished to this day.
India

Festivals of India: Lai Haraoba

The Lai Haraoba Festival is one of the oldest and most important events in Manipur, India. Rooted in the beliefs of the Meitei people, this festival is deeply connected to their earliest stories about the world’s creation. Every part of the festival, from its dances and music to its careful rituals, is a living link to ancient times. But it’s also a festival that keeps changing with each generation.

Lai Haraoba means “Merry-making of the Gods” or “Pleasing the Deities.” The festival started long before Hindu traditions arrived in Manipur. It goes back to a time when the Meiteis followed their own religion, Sanamahism, and honored a vast group of native deities called Umang Lai, meaning “forest gods.”

Lai Haraoba isn’t just a celebration for the gods. It’s a reenactment of the Meitei creation story. Performers act out how the world was formed: land, water, plants, animals, and humanity all came to life according to Meitei myth. And it’s not just one single deity who’s honoured. There are about 364 Umang Lai, each with their own legends and special rituals in villages and neighborhoods across Manipur.

Central to Lai Haraoba is the creation myth. In these stories, godly figures such as Sanamahi, Nongpok Ningthou, and Panthoibi are credited with creating the universe and everything within it. According to legend, the gods once performed Lai Haraoba themselves on Kubru Hill so that their descendants, humans, would know how to honour and imitate them. The rite shows how close the relationship is between the people and their deities, as well as between the residents of Manipur’s hills and plains.

Much of the festival plays out the love story of Nongpok Ningthou and Panthoibi. This divine couple symbolises cosmic forces and the cycle of creation. Their courtship, love, and union are performed in ritual dance and song, showing how the world’s forces come together to create and sustain life.

There are four main types of Lai Haraoba, each with its own local traditions:

  • Kanglei Haraoba: Common in many parts of Manipur’s valley region.
  • Moirang Haraoba: Centred in Moirang.
  • Kakching Haraoba: Celebrated in Kakching.
  • Chakpa Haraoba: Held in villages like Andro, Phayeng, Sekmai, and others.

The main structure of the festival is similar everywhere, but the details, specific hymns, dances, and local customs can differ. This variety keeps the festival both rooted and flexible from one community to another.

The celebration of Lai Haraoba is carefully structured into three major parts: the beginning (Lai Eekouba), the middle (Haraoba), and the end (Lairoi). The order and number of days can vary, from just a few to more than three weeks.

Opening the Shrine or Lai Eekouba: The festival starts by opening the usually locked doors of the community shrine, an action considered highly sacred. The inside is cleaned and prepared, with special songs and ritual washing of sacred objects and clothes. Sometimes, preparations start days beforehand, such as fermenting rice for rice beer, a key ritual item.

A procession led by the maibi (priestess) and sometimes maiba (male priest) heads to a river or pond. They bring sacred objects, make offerings, and invite the deity’s presence through water and chanting. The maibi might enter a trance and deliver oracles from the gods. The night ends with the pena, a traditional fiddle, playing music intended to “rest” the deities.

The Ritual Dance of Creation or Laibou: Dances and rituals performed during Lai Haraoba are called laibou, meaning “work done for the gods.” These are the heart of the festival, staged before the assembled village, often near the shrine or a sacred tree. Every aspect of human life and creation is re-enacted through dance, forming the human body, birth, farming, spinning, weaving, house-building, and other necessities. Each process, even the act of drawing the baby’s eyes or forming a fist, is acted out slowly and symbolically by the maibi.

Following the creation story, the ritual dances proceed through making a house, growing and weaving cotton, and preparing clothing. At one point, fishing is performed as a symbol of adulthood and desires. All the movements are slow, careful, and filled with ancient meaning.

Music is a constant feature. The pena, a simple fiddle, is played every day, marking morning and evening rituals. There are collective songs such as the “hoi laoba” and “wakol laoba,” with all participants shouting or singing together. The maibi delivers oracles: messages said to come straight from the deities. These can include advice for the year, warnings, or encouragement.

Several ritual dances have become icons of Lai Haraoba. The most significant are

  • Laiching Jagoi: Performed by maibis to “invite” the gods.
  • Khamba-Thoibi Jagoi: Tells the story of legendary lovers Khamba and Thoibi, replacing the older Panthoibi Jagoi in some places.
  • Tang Jagoi: A dance with fire and holy knives to drive out evil spirits.
  • Panthoibi Jagoi: The original romantic duet dance that honors the divine love story.

Modern celebrations can also include other folk, martial, and sometimes even Bollywood-inspired dances, adapting to today’s audiences.

The spiritual work of the festival is led by the maibi (woman priest) and maiba (man priest). Maibis, in particular, occupy a unique place as living channels between world and spirit. They lead most of the key rituals, dances, and oracles, sometimes entering trance to “speak” for the gods.

Rice beer, fruits, flowers, and hand-woven cloths are common offerings. The presentation of these gifts is an important act, meant to please the deities and ensure blessings for the coming year. Each offering has its own order and significance and is usually placed on banana leaves or in traditional baskets.

The festival is not just a religious event but a key part of social life. Each family or clan takes responsibility for certain rituals or offerings, and the festival provides a place for all generations to participate, from children to elders. It’s a practical lesson in Meitei life: how to build, weave, farm, worship, and come together as a community.

The story of Nongpok Ningthou and Panthoibi is a favorite, often dramatised as a flirtatious, complex drama. Sometimes, this story is merged with other folk legends, like Khamba and Thoibi of Moirang. In some versions, Panthoibi is portrayed as a Tangkhul (hill tribe) girl, illustrating the ancient bond between the people of the hills and plains. This is just one example of how the festival weaves together history, myth, and lived experience.

Though deeply traditional, Lai Haraoba is not frozen in time. As society evolves, so do the celebrations. Some villages add new performances or blend in more accessible forms of music and dance. The use of modern lighting and sound is more common now. But the old forms still remain at the heart, especially in more remote or tradition-focused communities.

During the festival, certain taboos and customs are observed, like periods of fasting or avoiding “unclean” acts. Community feasts are common, where all take part regardless of social status. Men, women, and children all join in some aspect of the ritual or celebration. And while the festival is religious, it’s also a time for courtship, gossip, settling disputes, and reinforcing social norms.

Lai Haraoba usually happens in the spring and summer, following the local lunar calendar. It can be held at any one of the many neighborhood shrines dedicated to an Umang Lai, so multiple celebrations may happen across Manipur at once, or even, nowadays, in other parts of India and among the Manipuri diaspora.

Lai Haraoba is more than ritual; it’s Manipur’s living cultural memory. It teaches the origins of life, the skills for survival, and the values to live by. Some see it as a form of community education, where children learn through watching, imitating, and participating.

And yet, the festival doesn’t ignore reality. There is room for fun, for complaints, and even for critical jokes about the village’s leaders. It holds both the grave and the playful. For as long as the festival is kept, the past remains present, and Manipur’s stories continue to unfold.

In My Hands Today…

The Mughal Throne – Abraham Eraly

A history of the great Mughal rulers of India, one of the world’s greatest empires.

In December 1525 Babur, the great grandson of the Mongol conqueror Tamberlaine, crossed the Indus river into the Punjab with a modest army and some cannon. At the battle of Panipat five months later he routed the mammoth army of the Afghan ruler of Hindustan. Mughal rule in India had begun. It was to continue for over three centuries, shaping India for all time.

Full of dramatic episodes and colourful detail, THE MUGHAL EMPIRE tells the story of one of the world’s great empires.

Sacred Stones, Spaces, and Stories: Divya Desams Part 4

Pundarikakshan Perumal Koil, Thiruvellarai, Tamil Nadu
Located in Thiruvellarai, a village 15 km northwest of Tiruchirappalli in Tamil Nadu, the Pundarikakshan Perumal Temple is one of the 108 Divya Desams, sacred Vishnu sites praised by the Alvars. The name means “white rock,” from the pale granite hills around it. Here, the goddess gets first honours in worship, flipping the usual order. Some say it’s older than Srirangam, but archaeology points to 8th-century caves, not millions of years.​​

Legends start with King Sibi Chakravarthy of Ayodhya. Hunting demons, he camped here. A white boar dashed past and hid in an anthill. Sage Markandeya, doing penance nearby, told Sibi to pour milk into the hole. Vishnu emerged as Pundarikakshan, the lotus-eyed lord. The sage said build a temple, but bring 3700 Vaishnavites from the north to do it right. Sibi did. But one worker died en route. Short 3700, the king worried. Vishnu slipped in disguised as Pundarikakshan, the 3700th. That’s why the deity faces west, watching the road the migrants came from. Another tale has Lakshmi doing penance here. Vishnu appeared as Sengamala Kannan. She became Pankajavalli, the lotus lady. Shiva, as Neelivaneswarar, worshipped here to shed Brahma’s severed head sin.​​

Pallavas carved the rock-cut caves in the late 8th century, under Nandivarman II and Dantivarman. Inscriptions prove it. Cholas added later, like Parakesarivarman endowing Krishna’s shrine around 950 CE. The Pandyas, Hoysalas, Vijayanagara kings layered on halls and walls. A 1262 flood wrecked it; a merchant rebuilt it. Ramanuja spent time here, teaching. Uyyakondar, his disciple, was born nearby. Thirukurukai Piran Pillai too. That ties it to Sri Vaishnava roots. Unique spot: 100-pillar hall, rare in smaller Divya Desams. White rocks gave the name, but also shaped early digging, nature forced the builders’ hand.

Dravidian style rules: granite walls, three-tier rajagopuram at the gate. Complex spreads over a low hill, with Pundarikaksha Theertham tank for rituals. Main sanctum holds west-facing Pundarikakshan, seated. Pankajavalli shrine separate but central. 100-pillar mandapam stands out with carvings of avatars, dancers, and lotuses. Rock-cut caves from Pallavas hold old inscriptions. Later gopurams mix Chola bulk with Nayak flair. No wild innovations, but tight layout on rocky ground shows smart adaptation. Pillars tell epics; walls mix gods and beasts.

The temple features six daily pujas: alangaram, naivedyam, and deepa aradanai. Nagaswaram and tavil play, with the priests chanting the Vedas. The goddess goes first: Pankajavalli gets decorated, fed, lit before her lord, a rare switch.

The Brahmotsavam in Panguni (Mar-Apr) takes place over 10 days, with Garuda Sevai and processions. Vaikunta Ekadasi opens the gates of paradise while Panguni Uthiram allows worshippers to witness the divine wedding. Chariot festival key, a community feast, is unique and centuries old. It is believed that a dip in the tank during the month of Karthigai in November enhances fertility.

From Trichy, buses or autos cover 15 km on flat roads past fields and the Kollidam river. The Alvars sang 11 paasurams here, baked into Nalayira Divya Prabandham. Ramanuja’s stay shaped commentaries while hymns fuelled songs, and dances at festivals.

The temple is managed by the Hindu Religious and Endowments Board and is affiliated with the Srirangam administration. The temple gopuram was recently restored using ancient methods with the help of IIT Madras, which they also documented. The festivals mostly draw a local crowd, with not many tourists here. Online bookings help, though demographics show more than 80% visitors are devotees and the rest are history fans.

Thiruvellarai anchors the Divya Desam net as a quiet elder. Myths test kings and gods; history stacks layers from cave to tower. The goddess-first worship questions male-led norms. The temple is small, but packed; it shows heritage thrives in villages, not just cities.

Vadivaḻagiya Nambi Perumal Koil, Anbil, Tamil Nadu
The Vadivazhaga Nambi Perumal Temple stands in Anbil village on the north bank of the Kollidam River, just 12 km from Tiruchirappalli in Tamil Nadu. Known also as Sundararaja Perumal Temple, it ranks among the 108 Divya Desams, sacred Vishnu abodes praised by the Alvars. Vishnu reclines here as the strikingly handsome Sundararajan, flanked by Sundaravalli Thayar. Thirumangai Alvar dedicated one hymn to it. Some claim idols date to Pandava times, but Chola inscriptions from the 8th century provide the firmest evidence.

Legends centre on Brahma’s pride in his creation. Arrogant about his beauty, he earned Vishnu’s curse to live as a mortal. Brahma performed penance at Anbil. Vishnu appeared in irresistible splendour, lifting the curse. Hence the name Sundararajan, the lord of beauty. The site earned “Anbil,” meaning “not agreed,” from a debate where even sage Valmiki disputed Vishnu’s finest form until the deity resolved it here.

Another tale features sage Manduka meditating underwater. Sage Durvasa cursed him into frog form for neglect. The frog worshipped Vishnu and regained human shape. The demon Kalanerai harassed rishis Bhrigu and Markandeya. Vishnu slew it as an arasa maram tree, then reclined on Adisesha. Shiva arrived seeking relief from his curse, the Brahma head stuck to his hand dropped after Vishnu offered rice.

These accounts overlap and contradict. Was Brahma cursed once or twice? Demons shift names. Myths prioritise themes over timelines: beauty humbles the creator, devotion redeems the cursed, and grace crosses sects as Shiva bows to Vishnu. If beauty dissolves pride, it challenges hierarchies in Vaishnava lore. Frog-to-sage underscores form yields to faith.

Medieval Cholas constructed the core structure in the late 8th century. Copper plates record their land grants and endowments. Vijayanagara kings and Madurai Nayaks expanded it later with halls and inscriptions detailing donations and festivals. Floods ravaged it in the 1260s, prompting local rebuilds. Unlike Srirangam’s raids, Anbil faced mainly river threats, yet survived through community effort. Thirumangai Alvar’s paasuram secured its Divya Desam status around the 8th century. Ties to Ramanuja’s Tenkalai tradition strengthened its Vaishnava role. Its unique location near the Grand Anicut, the Cholas’ irrigation feat, links temple life to agriculture. Rulers funded it as a power symbol; floods remind us that nature, not just kings, shapes survival.

Standard Dravidian granite buildings span 1.5 acres. A three-tier east-facing rajagopuram marks the entrance. In the sanctum, Sundararajan reclines on Adisesha with Sridevi, Bhoodevi, and Brahma at his feet. The Tharaka Vimanam roof echoes the gopuram shape, a subtle innovation. Subsidiary shrines honour the 12 Alvars, Narasimha, Venugopalar, Lakshmi Narasimha, and Hanuman. Carvings depict epics and lotuses on pillars and walls. The Pushkarini tank supports ritual baths.

Six daily pujas follow the Tenkalai style: alangaram for decoration, neivethanam for food offerings, and deepa aradanai for lamps. Nagaswaram pipes and tavil drums accompany Vedic chants. The temple Brahmotsavam spans 10 days in Chittirai (April-May) with processions. The Maasi Tirthavari (February-March) features river baths for the deity, while Vaikunta Ekadashi draws crowds.

One can reach Anbil by bus or auto from Trichy, tracing the Kollidam through fields. Village lanes lined with flower vendors lead to the temple gate. Remove shoes for darshan, often under 30 minutes during off-peak times.

Today, the TNHR&CE Board oversees operations with annadhanam feeding devotees daily. Flood defences continue, including raised walls and drainage fixes. The temple festivals pull locals mainly, with not many tourists drifting off the tourist circuit.

The Vadivazhaga Nambi Perumal Temple at Anbil holds its place in the Divya Desam circuit as a quiet riverside survivor. Its myths show gods humbled by beauty and devotion, while history reveals layers from Chola foundations to Nayak expansions, tested by relentless floods. The compact Dravidian design and village-scale rituals keep it grounded in daily life, far from grand temple-cities. This temple proves the circuit’s strength lies in such modest spots, weaving farm rhythms and river threats into India’s spiritual fabric. Visit to walk the Kollidam banks, ponder pride’s fall, and feel grace etched in reclining stone. In the end, Anbil reminds us that enduring faith thrives not in spectacle, but in steady flow.

Appakkudathaan Perumal Koil, Koviladi, Tamil Nadu
Located on the south bank of the Cauvery River, in Koviladi village, about 16 km from Tiruchirapalli in Tamil Nadu, the Appakkudathaan Perumal Temple is one of the 108 Divya Desams. Lord Vishnu is enshrined here as Appakkudathaan, forever holding a pot of sweet appam in his right hand. This site ranks among the five Pancharanga Kshetrams along the river, with legends claiming it predates even Srirangam upstream. But Chola inscriptions from the 9th century provide the earliest solid evidence, while floods have repeatedly challenged its survival.​

The main legend tells of King Uparisravasu, who accidentally killed a brahmin while hunting. The sin of brahmahatti dosha gripped him, worsened by Sage Durvasa’s curse that sapped his strength. To atone, the king fed thousands daily; accounts vary between 10,000 and 100,000. One day, Vishnu arrived disguised as a starving old man, devoured all the food, and requested a pot of appam. The king obliged. Vishnu revealed his form, lifted the curses, and stayed reclined with the pot as a reminder of grace through simple service.​

Sage Markandeya faced death at 16 from Yama. He prayed here, and Vishnu intervened, also humbling Indra’s arrogance. Another story positions Appala Ranganatha as pacing the steps toward Srirangam, earning the name Koviladi, the “first temple.” Periazhwar sang his final mangalasasanam here before ascending to Vaikunta. These tales overlap in details, like feast numbers or curse sources.

Cholas laid the foundations in the 9th-10th centuries. Aditya Chola’s inscriptions: numbers 283, 300, 301, 303 from 1901, detail donations for halls and Vedic scholars. Later Cholas, Pandyas, Vijayanagara rulers, and Nayaks expanded with prakarams and shrines. Unlike raided giants, Koviladi endured the Anglo-French wars nearby without noted damage, though the Cauvery floods demanded repeated rebuilds.​

Alvars, including Nammalvar, Periazhwar, and Thirumangai, immortalised it in paasurams. It served as a Vedic learning centre, drawing scholars. Periazhwar’s final praise marks it for moksha seekers. Downstream from Srirangam, it forms a river-linked chain, not an isolated outpost. History shows adaptation: rulers endowed, floods rebuilt, saints embedded it in faith networks.​

Granite Dravidian style hugs the riverbank. A three-tier Rajagopuram looms after 21 steps up. Inside, east-facing Appakkudathaan reclines on Adisesha in the sanctum, appam pot gripped tight, accompanied by Sridevi and Bhoodevi. Sowmya Nayaki claims a separate shrine. Prakarams encircle with sub-shrines for Alvars, Venugopala, and others. The vimana stays modest, echoing early Chola restraint.​ Pillars bear epic carvings, lotuses, and dancers. The Cauvery pushkarini enables ritual baths. No radical breaks from style, but systematic subsidies mirror Srirangam, 9th-10th century hallmarks. Compact form suits flood-prone ground, prioritising endurance over scale.​

Daily rhythm follows six pujas: alangaram dresses the deities, neivedyam offers food topped by appam, the only Divya Desam to do so daily, and deepa aradanai waves lamps amid nagaswaram, tavil, and Vedic chants. Brahmotsavam lights up Panguni with processions. Vaikunta Ekadashi opens paradise gates. Periazhwar Utsavam honours his departure. Locals stir appam pots, fund annadhanam, and line streets; threads of community weave the rites.​

Buses from Trichy cross the Cauvery through paddy fields, dropping at village paths lined with flower stalls. Climb to the gate, shed shoes, and find darshan swift on weekdays. Festival river dips cleanse body and spirit. Locals pour tea, recount Periazhwar’s ascent: “Pray here for a straight path to Vaikunta.” Flood scars linger in tales: “The Lord stemmed the waters once.” Quiet banks invite chants, reflection amid flowing river life.​

Nine Alvar paasurams echo in the Nalayira Divya Prabandham, recited in every puja. Periazhwar’s closing praise fuels songs and dances at festivals. Appam lore peppers village stories, Vedic past shapes farm rituals. Weddings and fairs orbit the temple, anchoring identity. Less spotlight than upstream kin, but it pulses through Koviladi’s daily beat, faith as staple, like its namesake sweet.​

Appakkudathaan claims its Divya Desam spot as Cauvery’s quiet link. Myths feed grace through appam pots; history stacks Chola stones atop flood-tested bases to Nayak crowns. Village intimacy endures where giants might falter. Pre-Srirangam boasts falter against inscriptions. Yet it binds the circuit, farms flooded, prayers offered, river flowing. Visit to savor appam prasadam, trace banks, balance legend with granite truth. Heritage endures not in towering claims, but pots of plain devotion.