The Book of Overthinking: How to Stop the Cycle of Worry – Gwendoline Smith
Overthinking is also known as worrying or ruminating and it’s a form of anxiety that many people suffer from.
Psychologist and bestselling author Gwendoline Smith explains in clear and simple language the concepts of positive and negative overthinking, the truth about worry and how to deal with the ‘thought viruses’ that are holding you back.
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Based on cognitive behavioural theory, this book will help you in all the key areas of your
Gurudwara Bangla Sahib Built to commemorate the visit Guru Har Krishan, the eighth Sikh guru in 1664, Gurudwara Bangla Sahib was built by Sikh General Sardar Bhagel Singh in 1783, who supervised the construction of nine Sikh shrines in Delhi in the same year during the reign of Mughal Emperor Shah Alam II.
The complex has a main prayer hall, a holy Sarovar or lake, a higher secondary school, a hospital, the Baba Baghel Singh Museum, and a library within its premises. People visiting get free community meals served at a particular time. The entire building is carved out of delicate white marble, with the central dome covered in solid gold leaves. The front wall is embellished with intricated projected carvings and has several smaller domes as well. The Nishan Sahib is a towering flagpole that proudly waves the Gurudwara’s flag.
It is believed that the waters of the Sarovar here have miraculous healing properties. The Gurudwara was once a bungalow belonging to Raja Jai Singh in the 17th century and was known as Jaisinghpura Palace at that time. When the eighth Sikh Guru, Guru Har Krishan visited Delhi in the year 1664, he stayed at the palace. Following the teachings of Sikhism, Guru Har Krishan dedicated his services to the suffering by giving fresh water from the well, the healing powers of which cured the diseased. Unfortunately, he contracted the same, as a result of which he died on March 30, 1664. Raja Jai Singh constructed a small tank over the waters of the well, and it is now believed to heal all kinds of diseases and health problems. It is taken away in bottles as souvenirs by devotees coming to Bangla Sahib from all over the world.
When entering the gurudwara, heads need to be covered, shoes have to be deposited near the entrances, and feet washed in warm water before entering. The Paath and Shabads or the sacred chants go on for almost 24 hours and there is an aura of peace and divinity that envelops the visitor.
There is also a Yatri Niwas for tourists with room facilities available. An air-conditioned room, it costs INR 1000 per night, while non-air-conditioned rooms are rented for INR 800 per night. There is also a huge hall that can accommodate 500 people. Photography is not allowed inside the campus and selfies are strictly prohibited. Community meals or Langars are served between 9 am and 3 pm and then again between 7 and 10 pm.
Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib Situated in the Chandi Chowk area, Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib is one of the nine historical gurudwaras in Delhi. Built in 1783 by Baghel Singh, a military general in the Punjab cantonment, the gurdwara is the martyrdom site of the ninth Sikh Guru, Guru Tegh Bahadur who was executed here on the orders of the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb on 11th November 1675 as he refused to convert his religion to Islam. Before the body could be revived and displayed for view for the devotees, it was stolen by one of the Guru’s disciples Lakhi Shah Vanjara. Vanjara carried the body to his home and burnt down his house to cremate his Guru. Today, Gurudwara Rakab Ganj Sahib stands at that spot. The head of Guru Tegh Bahadur was taken to Anandpur Sahib and cremated there by his son. Like all other gurdwaras, this one is also open to people of all religions and faith to visit. The gurudwara is open between 12 noon and 11:30 pm daily.
Rakab Ganj Gurdwara Another historical Gurdwara, the Rakab Ganj Gurdwara near Parliament House has historical significance. Historical records name Baghel Sikh, the Sikh Military General, to be the one who constructed this Gurdwara in 1783. Gurdwara Rakab Ganj is known for being the cremation site of the headless body of the ninth Guru of Sikhs, the martyr Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji, who gave his life, saving Hindu Kashmiri Pandits from Aurangzeb’s cruelties in 1675.
The body of Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji was cremated by Baba Lakhi Shah Vanjara and his son, who belonged to a colony of stirrup makers, which are attached to a horse’s saddles. Hence, the name Rakab, Persian for stirrups. Gurdwara Rakab Ganj has two prayer halls. The main prayer hall is where the body was cremated. The second one is much bigger and recent and is used during events to accommodate large crowds of people. Constructed of white marble, there is a garden on one side. Indicating how Sikhism doesn’t discriminate based on caste, colour, or religion, it has entrance gates on all four sides.
While the Sis Ganj Gurdwara is where Guru Tej Bahadur Ji’s head was beheaded, the place where Gurdwara Rakab Ganj stands now was earlier a Muslim Mosque. When Baghel Singh came to Delhi with his army of 30,000 Sikh warriors and saw this, he asked the Muslims to uproot the Mosque to check the ground beneath the Mosque for Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji’s ashes by demolishing it. There were objections raised to this, but the Muslims were offered that the Mosque would be reconstructed at the Sikhs’ expense if the vase with the Guru’s ashes was not found. Upon investigation, the claims by the Sikhs were proved right and the Gurdwara was built with permission from Emperor Shah Alam II.
Sunder Nursery Located opposite Humayun’s Tomb, Sunder Nursery is a 16th-century heritage park, home to six UNESCO world heritage monuments and 15 heritage monuments protected by the Archaeological Survey of India. The 90-acre garden also houses a paradise garden with a marble fountain, almost 300 plants and tree species, 80 bird species, and 40 butterfly species. Formerly known as Azeem Bagh, Bagh-e-Azeem, or the Great Garden, it was originally built by the Mughals in the 16th century. The park is sandwiched between the Humayun tomb complex on the south and Purana Qila to the north. The word Sunder means beautiful and the nursery gets its name from the Sunder Burj tomb on its premises.
As one of New Delhi’s top green eco-zones, Sunder Nursery is an immensely photogenic place and one can often come across many couples taking wedding photoshoots and movies being filmed here. While 20 acres of the park are utilized for developing nursery beds, another 30 have been dedicated to creating a biological diversity zone. Sunder Nursery has a collection of four distinct micro-habitat zones with sections showcasing Delhi’s heritage monuments and ecological wealth. These zones replicate Delhi’s original terrain, viz. Kohi or the ridge, Bangar or the alluvial soil, Khadar or the riverine, and Dabar or the marshland.
Every weekend, The Earth Collective farmers market is pitched here with both permanent and new stalls. There are about 45 stalls in total, selling local handmade apparel, home decor, snacks, and fresh vegetables and fruits. Artisan products, beverages, jams and preserves, terracotta cookware, handmade clothing and solar power products are some of the eco-friendly products available. Visitors can also pick up Sunder Nursery’s organic vermicompost, fertilizers and pesticides at this market. The market is open on Saturday and Sunday between 9 am and 2 pm.
In 1950, Mr V.P. Agnihotri donated a bonsai house to Sunder Nursery with some of the plants as old as 90 years. Other bonsai contributors include British officials who imported exotic seeds in the early 1900s. The Bonsai House is also home to 40 species of butterflies like a blue and yellow pansy, Indian Palm Bob, Peacock Pansy, and the Banded Awl.
Sunder Nursery is open daily between 7 am and 6 pm. Ticket prices for Indians are INR 40 for adults, INR 20 for children between 5 and 12 and those under five get in free. Senior citizens 60 years and above need to pay INR 20 while foreigners pay INR 200.
Lodhi Gardens Located near the Safdarjung tomb and Khan Market, Lodhi Garden is a luscious garden that houses the tombs of the Sayyid ruler Mohammed Shah and Lodhi King Sikandar Lodhi. The garden was constructed under the Lodhi reign sometime in the 15th century and in addition to the tombs, Lodhi Garden also has the Shisha Gumbad and Bara Gumbad within its perimeter. The architecture is a mix of the Sayyidi and Lodhi styles and today the garden is maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India.
The garden was also known as Lady Willingdon Park, but was renamed Lodhi Gardens after India’s independence. The contrast of sombre mausoleums against the lush greenery of the gardens makes it a favourite. Under the Mughal, the garden area went under major renovations following the purpose deemed fit by the rulers. Akbar, the third Mughal emperor, used the garden as an observatory and to keep records as well. During British colonial rule, renovations were regularly carried out and The wife of the Governor-General of India, Marquess of Willingdon, landscaped these gardens after which it was named Lady Willingdon Park upon its inauguration on 9 April 1936.
One of the oldest tombs here is that of Mohammad Shah who was the last ruler of the Sayyid Dynasty. This cenotaph was built in 1444 by Ala-ud-din Alam Shah as a tribute to the King. The construction of the tomb is a combination of Hindu style symbolism and Islamic ornamentation. The main complex of the tomb is octagonal and has a central dome embellished with arches, verandahs and ancient fortification structures. Sikander Lodhi’s tomb is made in the image of the Shah’s tomb and is an important example of this kind of architecture. This tomb houses the remains of the battlements within it even today. In the gardens’ midst lies the Bara Gumbad, which is a large rubble dome. Not a tomb, the Bara Gumbad is a passage to an adjoining three-domed mosque, both of which were built in 1494 during the rule of Sikander Lodi. Opposite the Bara Gumbad is the Glass Dome, which is called so owing to the glazed tiles used in its construction. The ceiling here contains plasterwork with inscriptions from the Quran and is a representation of both Hindu and Islamic architecture. Within this dome are the remains of an unknown family. The Glass Dome was also constructed during Sikander Lodi’s reign. Once inside the Gardens, one may see remains of a watercourse that connects the Yamuna River to the Tomb of Sikandar Lodi. An Eight Pier Bridge close to Sikander’s tomb was built by the Mughal Emperor Akbar. The bridge has seven arches amongst which the central one is the largest.
Lodhi Gardens is open between 6 am and 7:30 pm and there is no entry fee to access the gardens. There are a few restaurants within the garden, which makes for a very nice ambience.
Garden of Five Senses Located away from the din of the city, the Garden of Five Senses sprawls over 20 acres of land and is designed to stimulate the senses of touch, sight, smell, sound, and taste . Partly built on rocky terrain and partly in the plain area, the garden has various themed parks, a section of Mughal baghs, pools of water lilies, cascades of sparkling water, a solar energy park, an amphitheatre, and a food court, in addition to a number of sculptures, rock carvings and themed decor.
Designed by Pradeep Sachdeva, the park was jointly constructed by Delhi Tourism and Transportation Development Corporation and was inaugurated in February 2003. The flower show during February is a notable event.
Two enormous sculptures of ascending birds, carved in stainless steel welcomes one to the garden. In the front is the expansive plaza, set on a rocky ramp, which leads to a spiral walk away amidst a parade of slatey-coloured stone elephants. The garden is divided into several parts.
To the right of the spiral stairway is the Khas Bagh. This tiny piece of garden is inspired by the Mughal char bagh. It has lush green lawns in the four-fold style, with water tanks and free-flowing cascades of water. The sides are decked with small shrubberies and vibrant flowers and the median axis has a decor of fountains, the main attraction of which is the sculpture of a Fountain Tree which is a fountain cum tree lit up by a fibreoptic lighting system. On the other side of the spiral walk away, a little further on the pathway, is the food court and tiny shopping area. A few steps ahead is the rocky ridge with stone silhouettes and a pinwheel. Another trail of winding paths will lead one to Neel Bagh, a pool of water lilies and climbers, and seasonal flowers. Overhead on the trees is an elaborate decor of wind chimes. Walking still inside the park, one will come across various floral species and bushes including some rare and endangered species, almost 200 of them. Set amidst trees is the amphitheatre with stone seats and grassy steps which hosts cultural events and art workshops. In addition, the garden also has a tiny solar area which helps in generating solar energy.
Guided tours of the garden called Nature Walks are organised which commence with the introduction and description of the trees and proceed to the architecture inspired by the Mughals and then showcase the park and what it can offer. Believed to be a goodwill gesture to Mexico, the government hoisted a replica of the Labna in Mexico here. The original Labna was built by the Mayans in Yucatan during the Late and Terminal Classic era, around 862. The local Labna Arch was constructed with stones imported from Rajasthan which are similar to the ones found in Yucatan.
The park is open in the summer from April to September between 9 am and 7 pm and in the winter months from October to March between 9 am and 6 pm. Entry fees are INR 30 for adults, INR 15 for children up to the age of 12, and INR 15 for senior citizens.
National Rose Garden The National Indo-Africa Friendship Rose Garden, commonly known as the National Rose Garden is a gorgeous rose garden situated in Chanakyapuri. It boasts umpteen varieties of roses curated from all over the world. The park is especially crowded from November to January when the roses are in full bloom. The garden is open daily between 6 am to 6 pm.
Mehrauli Archaeological Park Less than a km from the Qutb Complex, the Mehrauli Archaeological Park is spread over a 200-acre area, which includes the ruins of the Lal Kot built by the Tomar Rajputs in the 11th century. Mehrauli is one of the seven ancient cities that comprise today’s Delhi and the ruins at the archaeological park are almost half a century older than Old Delhi or Shahjahanabad. The more than 100 scattered monuments here date back to the 10th century and as recent as British colonial rule. From the majestic stone works of the Lal Kot under the Chauhan Rajputs to one of the finest examples of Indo-Islamic architecture in Balban’s Tomb, to the Jamali Kamali Mosque and Tomb which is believed to be the first pioneering work of Mughal architecture in India, there are a lot of glimpses one can gain in the work of craftsmen, builders, architects, masons and engineers of a past era.
The redevelopment of the area as an archaeological park and the conservation of important structures started in 1997, in collaboration between Delhi Tourism and Transportation Development Corporation (DTTDC), the State Department of Archaeology, the Delhi Development Authority (DDA) and the Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH), which first started systematic documentation of structures in the area and also started conducting heritage walks since 2000. Over the years, INTACH has restored some 40 monuments in the Park and added signages, heritage trails, and sandstone trail-markers
The fort city of Lal Kot was built by the Tomar Rajputs in 1050 and served as a sanctuary for the armies. After the Chauhan Rajputs seized control of Delhi from the Tomars, Prithviraj Chauhan, the ruling king refurbished and revamped the existing structure. The citadel and its fort walls now lie in ruins, visible and scattered around the Qutb complex, Saket, and Vasant Kunj areas. The Jamali Kamali Masjid and Tomb is a pre-Mughal dynasty structure built during the 1520s comprising two different ancient monuments. They stand here adjacent to one another, on one side a mosque dedicated to a famous Sufi saint by the name of Shaikh Jamali Kamboh and on the other side, a tomb for Kamali, an unknown person closely associated with the saint. A 16th-century tomb, it lies on the walls of Lal Kot and has a verandah on each side. The grave of Adham Khan lies right below the central dome. The arch made its first appearance in the Indian subcontinent at Balban’s Tomb and so this tomb is of historical and architectural importance as a piece of Indo-Islamic architecture. Built in the 17th century, the tomb of Shah Quli Khan is a magnificent octagonal structure with a giant white dome as its topping. It was raised entirely by using red and grey sandstone materials. The famous stepwell of Rajon Ki Baoli is one of the main attractions in the park because of its incredible intricate architecture. The well boasts symmetrical arched walls, a rectangular-shaped well, and stonework masonry in great detail.
Mehrauli Archaeological Park is open from sunrise to sunset and there is no entry fee to view what treasures lie within.
Pradhanmantri Sangrahalaya The Prime Ministers’ Museum or the Pradhanmantri Sangrahalaya was inaugurated by Prime Minister Narendra Modi on 14 April 2022. Located next to the Nehru Memorial Museum and Library, the museum pays tribute to all of India’s post-independence Prime Ministers. Besides memorabilia, there is an audio and visual tour of speeches from the Red Fort and a virtual helicopter ride.
Building I of the museum houses the Toshakhana Zone which displays the treasures gifted to various Prime Ministers. Other parts of the museum are dedicated to different aspects of India’s history. The Making of the Constitution room displays the debates and documents made by the Constituent Assembly. Democratic India showcases the understanding of parliament and democracy. The India – China War room has photographs and a history of the war. The Nehru Gallery, his study room, sitting room, and bedroom are also open for visitation.
Building II has a Parichay room that introduces the Prime Ministers of India. The zones for each Indian Prime Minister display their achievements and speeches. The Bhavishya ki Jhalkiya room takes the visitors on a virtual helicopter ride exploring what the future holds for the country. The Time Machine room virtually displays the changes that took place over the years in India. Using Augmented Reality one can take a selfie with the Prime Minister or the Handwriting Robot can write a message signed by the Prime Minister that one can take home.
The museum is open in the summer months between March to October from 10 am to 6 pm and in the winter months between November to February from 10 am to 5 pm. It is closed on Mondays and Gazetted Holidays and has an entry fee of INR 20 for adults while it is free for students studying until class 12. For foreigners, the entry fee is INR 350.
National Museum Also known as the National Museum of India, the National Museum is one of the largest museums in the country, situated on the corner of Janpath and Maulana Azad Road. Established in 1949, the museum boasts of possessing 200,000 artworks, both Indian and foreign, and is maintained by the Ministry of Culture, Department of India. Covering an extensive range of products from prehistoric times to modern works of art, the museum traces the rich cultural heritage of nations across the world, over 5000 years.
The museum also houses the National Museum Institute of the History of Arts, Conservation and Museology which was added as a different section in 1983. Since 1989, this section runs different courses in History of Arts, Conservation and Museology for Master and Doctoral degrees. Besides, the repository boasts of 4th and 5th century BC relics, dating to the times of the Buddha and the Harappan Civilization in addition to numerous wood carvings, paintings, sculptures, murals, textiles, and armoury. The two-storeyed building has segregated chambers to display antiques of different periods and covers all departments including Archaeology, Decorative Arts, Jewellery, Manuscripts, Textiles, Numismatics, Epigraphy, Central Asian Antiquities, Anthropology, Pre-Columbian American and Western Art Collections.
In the winters of 1947-48, an exhibition on Indian arts and artefacts was set up in the Royal Academy of London. Post the event in London; the exhibition curators intended to display the entire collection in India before returning the artefacts to the respective individual museums. And in 1949, an exhibition was organised on the premises of the Rashtrapati Bhawan. The massive success of the exhibition led to the formation of a permanent National Museum. On 15 August 1949, the museum housed in Rashtrapati Bhawan was inaugurated by the then Governor-General of India, C. Rajagopalachari. In 1955, the museum was moved to its current location and was formally inaugurated by the Prime Minister of India, Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru in 1960. Until 1957, the museum was run by the Director-General of Archaeology, but today it is maintained and managed by the Ministry of Culture.
The National Museum boasts an extensive number of galleries possessing many exhibits and relics of ancient cultural heritage. The Harappan Gallery houses various artefacts from the Indus Valley Civilization. The prominent displays include the dancing girl and the priest’s head. Apart from this, the gallery flaunts various terracotta sculptures, bone structures, ivory, semi-precious stones and numerous seals found during excavations. Spanning three dynasties, the Maurya, Shunga and Satvahana Art Gallery has objects spanning the 4th century BC to the 1st century BC. The relics in this gallery showcase the Greek influence, which includes fragments of the railings and structures from ancient stupas. An important period in the religion of Buddhism, this gallery has depictions of Buddha’s life in the form of inscriptions or carvings without any real sculpture or physical form.
The Kushana Gallery depicts objects from the Kushan period ranging from the 1st to the 3rd centuries BC. This gallery presents a demonstration of the Gandhara School of Art and the Mathura School of Art and is also the period when Buddha was shown in a physical form. The Gupta Gallery depicts the Gupta period from the 4th to the 6th century BC. The gallery is a celebration of marvellous sculpture and religious iconography with exhibits of Goddesses Ganga and Yamuna and magnificent sculptures of other gods and temples. The Medieval Gallery is subdivided into Early and Late Medieval Artefacts. Early Medieval artefacts cover the Palas, Chalukyas and Pratiharas between the 7th and 10th centuries, after the fall of the Gupta Empire. The Late Medieval artefacts have sculptures from the 10th to the 13th centuries, of the Hoysalas, Gajapatis, and Chauhans.
The Decorative Arts Gallery showcases decorative articles across centuries including collections of ivory, jade and ceramics, thrones of Indian rulers, Hindu and Jain pitakas, metalware, and jewellery. The Miniature Painting Gallery displays around 17,000 paintings from all over India, extending over Mughal, Rajasthani, Deccani, Pahari and others styles. The main themes of the paintings are the Mahabharat, the Ramayana, the Puranas, Ragamala, and Baburname. The Buddhist Art section houses the extensive relics, specimens and antiques from the life and times of the Buddha.
In addition, the museum also houses a compact but airy auditorium with a seating facility of 250 people. A brief film introducing the auditorium is screened several times a day and occasionally, the auditorium also screens film shows on art, history and heritage. A 75-minute audio tour can be facilitated at some extra cost, and is available in English, Hindi, French, German and Japanese. Indians need to pay INR 100 for the Hindi language and INR 150 for other languages while this is included in the entry tickets for foreigners.
The museum is closed on Mondays. Tuesdays to Fridays it is open between 10 am to 6 pm. Over the weekend, on Saturdays and Sundays, it is open between 10 am and 8 pm. Entry fees are INR 20 for Indians and children studying upto class 12 enter free with identity cards. For foreigners, the entry ticket cost is INR 650 which includes an audio guide.
Nehru Memorial Museum and Library Housed within the premises of the Teen Murti Bhavan, the Nehru Memorial Museum and Library is an autonomous institution established in the memory of India’s first Prime Minister, Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru. Founded in 1964, after the death of Pandit Nehru to foster research and preserve modern and contemporary history and the Indian Independence Movement, the museum is currently managed and maintained by the Department of Culture. Besides being the primary source of detailed information on Nehru, the repository also has archives of Mahatma Gandhi’s writings, in addition to private documents of C. Rajagopalachari, B. C. Roy, Jayaprakash Narayan, Charan Singh, Sarojini Naidu and Rajkumari Amrit Kaur. The museum conducts talks, workshops, special shows and live interaction programmes as well as quizzes and activities both for children and adults.
Sprawling over 30 acres, the complex comprises an elaborate museum in the eastern wing and a library in the western wing. The depository is a treasure trove of facts and data about the freedom struggle of India. Due to growth in the research data, an exclusive library building was added in 1974 and a centre for contemporary studies was added in 1990. The complex also houses a planetarium.
Teen Murti Bhavan was the residence of Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru and after the museum was established, in the eastern wing of the complex, some of the rooms were preserved in their original state like the drawing room, study and bedroom. The galleries are an insight into the Indian Independence Movement. The Teen Murti Bhavan complex also houses a specialized library which can be made use of at a cost of a nominal fee charge. The library is a treasure trove of valuable newspapers and journals and research materials. The diverse collection includes 267,000 printed books and over 200,000 photographs from the freedom struggle movement. There is a special collection of books by Nehru called Nehruana concerning his writings, thoughts and political beliefs. The gallery also boasts 2,02,415 photographs from Indian history which are largely used by newspapers, magazines and journals.
The planetarium hosts shows on celestial bodies and the solar system. The show in English runs at 11:30 am and 3 pm while the show in Hindi runs at 1:30 pm and 4 pm. Entry fees are INR 50 for adults, INR 30 for children between 4 and 12 and INR 20 for school children in groups. The museum is closed on Mondays and other days it is open between 10 am and 5 pm. There is no entry fee to access the museum and library.
Rashtrapati Bhavan Museum Located inside the premises of Rashtrapati Bhavan, the Rashtrapati Bhavan Museum was inaugurated in 2014 by the then-President of India, Pranab Mukherjee. The depository showcases invaluable artefacts from art, culture and history. The complex is situated alongside Circuit 2 within the compound and has been further segregated into three sections – The Clock Tower, The Stables and The Garage. The Garage is the most recent addition to the complex inaugurated in 2016.
Built for a cost of over 80 crores in two years, the underground museum houses gifts given to the country from all over the world, since the time of the first President, Dr Rajendra Prasad. The galleries have been facilitated with virtual reality equipment and multi-screen projectors to provide a live element to the story-telling feature. The museum has an art gallery which hosts exhibitions frequently as well as a platform displaying speeches from former presidents through projection.
The museum has been segregated into three galleries. The Clock Tower was originally built in 1925 by Sir Edward Lutyens and was known as the Band House. Previously, it was used as residential quarters and post office for Rashtrapati Bhavan but currently, the building is used as the reception for the Rashtrapati Bhavan Museum Complex or RBMC. The square structure is 23 feet high and has neatly cut corners; it is graced with alcove arches and lion heads for fountains. Two sturdy pillars with a tiny patio are at the entrance to the chamber and a vintage clock system, a product of the famous James & Joyce company adorns the central dome. The Stables is the section of the museum that displays and preserves the gifts given to former presidents and ministers from personalities all over the world. Before the inception of this museum, the gifts and articles were stored at a place called the Toshkhaana inside Rashtrapati Bhavan. To display the valuables to an audience, this gallery was created as a state-of-the-art museum. Besides the gifts, it has a collection of arms, furniture, sculptures, wood carvings, and archival material. Based on the name, the gates and windows of this chamber have horse-shoe images on them. The chamber has been divided into three more sections – the left corridor, the long hall and the right corridor. While the left corridor holds the actual gift articles received, the long hall is further cut up into the War Scene Gallery, the Furniture Gallery and the PBG Gallery. The right corridor again has gifts, paintings and other memorabilia. Within the Stables is also a Coach House which was originally used to house the carriages but now is equipped with material depicting the ancient history of the nation through pictures, articles and contextual references. The Garage is the last section of the complex and derives its name from the fact that previously it was used as a garage for the President’s Estate. The gallery showcases the Presidents of India, their history and political journeys, the ceremonies hosted at the President’s Estate and the like. It has three floors, ground, upper basement and lower basement.
The museum is open between 9 am and 4 pm every day except Mondays when it is closed. Children below the age of 8 have free entry while adults need to pay INR 50. For a large group of 30 people, the cost is INR 1200.
Indian War Memorial Museum Located in the Naubat Khana within the premises of the historic Red Fort, the Indian War Memorial Museum was built to pay tribute to the Indian soldiers who fought for the country. Spread over two floors, the galleries depict the military history of India with arms, weapons, a variety of daggers, chest armour and other objects of war. The first gallery has a brilliant miniature model of the war scene between Babur and Ibrahim Lodi. The other exhibits in this section include swords, daggers, helmets, armour, gilded weapons, and battle axes. The next two galleries are filled with replicas of slightly evolved weapons which comprise bombshells, pistols, machine guns, and gunpowder among othersn mostly used during World War I.
The following two galleries showcase European influence over weapons and communication facilities like the telegraph, telephone, radar, and signal lamps. It also displays uniforms, badges, flags and ribbons of the officers from lands like New Zealand and Turkey. There is also a display of the complete dress of the Maharaja of Jodhpur in the museum bedecked with a belt, jewellery, turban and sword. The museum is open daily between 10 am and 5 pm and entry fees for Indians is INR 5, for Indian students is INR 1, and for foreigners is INR 100. Camera and video recording fees are INR 25.
National Handicrafts Museum Popularly known as the Crafts Museum, the National Handicrafts Museum is a centre for varied specimens of handicrafts, textiles and local decor and to preserve, protect and revive the tradition of local handicrafts. Located in the far corner of Pragati Maidan in Delhi, the museum is designed by Charles Correa and is currently under the management of the Ministry of Textiles. The Lota Café on its grounds which serves regional cuisine is famous as is the Museum Shop.
Today, the museum houses over 33,000 assorted collections of various crafts collected over the last 60 years from different Indian states. The diverse collection includes exhaustive textiles and fabrics, bronze and metal lamps, sculptures, wood carvings, bamboo crafts, terracotta figurines, and tribal paintings. Among the multiple galleries housed in the complex, the popular ones include the Tribal and Rural Craft Gallery, the Gallery of Courtly Crafts, the Textile Gallery, and the Gallery of Popular Culture. A mini model of a village spread over 5 acres is located on the premises which displays actual generic exhibits depicting the life of rural India. The museum also has a library, an auditorium, a research centre, and a laboratory.
The Jewellery and Valuables collection flaunts a beautiful collection of Indian antiques and vintage jewellery. It showcases a metal plate called Theva plate with historical scenes depicted on it, a skull neckpiece dating back to the early 20th century, a metal neckband worn by Naga warriors, a ruby-studded Mangamalai or mango necklace popular in Tamil Nadu and a Hansli which is popular in Rajasthan from the late 18th century. The gallery has a copper pot from the early 19th century, a brass figurine of Radha from the 18th century, a peacock casket, popularly known as Mayur Phorua, the head of Goddess Gauri, an incarnation of Goddess Parvathy, Bidriware utensils from the late 18th century, and other deities in metal. In the Matting and Weaving section, products include hukkas made from bamboo stalks, floor matting called Sheetalpatti, and cane and bamboo grain baskets. The Textiles collection has different textile products like temple hangings, sarees with hunting scenes called Shikargah, loom-woven vintage shawls, patched clothes, a story depicting kerchiefs, and block prints among others. In addition, the museum boasts a vast collection of terracotta figurines, glazed pottery, wooden Krishna panels, Jali latticework, wood carvings, toys and masks, Indian folk paintings, ancient opium containers, gunpowder cases and other antiques.
The Bhuta Sculpture Gallery showcases the Bhuta Cult who worship spirits, synonymous with the coastal region of Karnataka. The Folk and Tribal Crafts Gift Gallery showcases the folk and tribal traditions of India and has a collection of folk paintings and frescos and different daily objects from across the nation. The Cultic Crafts Gallery displays sculptures, accessories, products and objects of rituals from different religious practices of India. The Court Craft Gallery has a collection of home decor and valuable products which used to adorn ancient palaces and royal homes. The Textile Gallery has several textile and handloom products, both hand woven and machine-made from different states of India.
Cafe Lota at the museum is a contemporary restaurant serving sumptuous and healthy regional Indian dishes. The restaurant is decorated with beautiful terracotta figurines, and soft music is played. The cafe is open from 8 am to 8:30 pm every day of the week except Mondays. The Crafts Museum is also closed on Mondays and other days is open between 10 am and 5 pm. Entry Fee to the museum is INR 20 for Indians and INR 2—for foreigners.
Today is the first day of the Year of the Rabbit. Here’s wishing all my Chinese readers a very happy Lunar New Year. Gong Xi Fa Cai, Xīn nián kuài lè
We have a long weekend here in Singapore because of the Chinese Lunar New Year celebrations, so it is a time to rest and chill and just be with one another. I would have loved to go on a short trip, but because of the children’s school and the fact that GG has exams coming up, this remained a dream for now.
Today’s quote is from Walt Disney, the man who seeded the child in every one of us. Disney says that all our dreams can come true if we dare to pursue them. What this means is that nothing is impossible, and all our dreams can come true as long as we don’t give up. It’s the courage to pursue them even after the failure which is important the most. All our dreams can be turned into a reality, but, It has to be authentic and realistic. So be real, listen to your inner voice, believe in yourself, and have the courage to continue even after a setback. What you do when you fail defines everything.
China is likely to see 36,000 Covid deaths a day during the Lunar New Year holidays, making it one of the most deadly periods of the pandemic, according to an updated analysis. The country will likely experience one longer, more severe Covid wave, rather than repeat peaks and valleys, as the traditional festival marked by millions of people returning home to reunite with their families fuels high levels of virus transmission. Hopefully, this will not be a return to what happened in 2020 which was also fueled by the Lunar New Year travel.
I have been obsessed with reading this week and read four books this week. I have been reading every chance I got during the day and some days, late into the night trying to finish a chapter or a book. I hope this continues for a long time this year and I read more and more.
Stay safe people and here’s hoping the year of the rabbit is happy and prosperous for you and your loved ones.
The Aquariums of Pyongyang: Ten Years in the North Korean Gulag – Kang Chol-Hwan and Pierre Rigoulot
Amid escalating nuclear tensions, Kim Jong-un and North Korea’s other leaders have kept a tight grasp on their one-party state, quashing any nascent opposition movements and sending all suspected dissidents to its brutal concentration camps for “re-education.”
Kang Chol-Hwan is the first survivor of one of these camps to escape and tell his story to the world, documenting the extreme conditions in these gulags and providing a personal insight into life in North Korea. Sent to the notorious labor camp Yodok when he was nine years old, Kang observed frequent public executions and endured forced labor and near-starvation rations for ten years. In 1992, he escaped to South Korea, where he found God and now advocates for human rights in North Korea.
Part horror story, part historical document, part memoir, part political tract, this book brings together unassailable firsthand experience, setting one young man’s personal suffering in the wider context of modern history, giving eyewitness proof to the abuses perpetrated by the North Korean regime.
Jama Masjid The Masjid-i-Jehan-Numa or the World-reflecting Mosque, commonly known as the Jama Masjid of Delhi, is one of the large mosques in India. It was built by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan between 1650 and 1656 at the highest point of Shahjahanabad and inaugurated by Syed Abdul Ghafoor Shah Bukhari from Bukhara, Uzbekistan who had been invited by Shah Jahan to be the mosque’s Shahi or Royal Imam. Situated in the Mughal capital of Shahjahanabad which is today Old Delhi, it served as the imperial mosque of the Mughal emperors until the demise of the empire in 1857. The Jama Masjid was regarded as a symbolic node of Islamic power across India, well into the colonial era as well as a site of political significance during several key periods of British rule. It remains in active use today and is one of Delhi’s most iconic sites, closely identified with the ethos of Old Delhi.
The mosque has two names. The older one, bestowed by Shah Jahan, is Masjid-i-Jehān-Numā, roughly translating to the mosque commanding the view of the world in Persian and Urdu. The other more common one is Jāmā Masjid, which emerged among the common people whose literal translation in Arabic is a congregational mosque. It is used in the sense of a Friday mosque or Juma Masjid since this is when the congregational prayer is held. The term Jama Masjid is not unique to Delhi’s mosque. Since the 7th century, it has been used in the Islamic world to denote the community mosque, and hence many around the world bear this name and its variants. The mosque was one of the last monuments built under Shah Jahan and after completion, it served as the royal mosque of the emperors until the end of the Mughal period.
During British colonial rule, the Masjid continued to serve as a site of social and political discourse, but the Revolt of 1857 was a major turning point. It resulted in the deaths of many British and weakened colonial authority, deeply affronting the British and ending the Mughal empire. The British perceived the revolt as instigated by Muslims, cultivated within Delhi’s mosques. So, after the British reclaimed the city in the same year, they razed many mosques and banned the congregation of Muslims in any remaining mosques. The Jama Masjid was barred from any religious use and was repeatedly considered for destruction, but eventually, it was used as barracks for its Sikh and European soldiers. The Masjid was eventually returned to the Muslims in 1862, due to their increasing resentment of British actions. Multiple conditions were imposed, including the usage of the Jama Masjid as strictly a religious site, as well as mandatory policing by the British. The Jama Masjid Managing Committee or JMMC, consisting of respected Muslims of Delhi, was established as a formal body to represent the mosque and enforce these conditions. In 1886, the Nawab of Rampur donated a sum of 1,55,000 rupees to facilitate repairs and in 1926, a donation from the Nizam of Hyderabad of 1,00,000 rupees was used for similar purposes.
The Jama Masjid continued to be a political symbol after independence. In 1948, the last Nizam of Hyderabad, Asaf Jah VII was asked for a donation of 75,000 rupees to repair one-fourth of the mosque floor. The Nizam instead sanctioned 3,00,000 rupees, stating that the remaining three-fourths of the mosque should not look old.
Today, Jama Masjid serves as Delhi’s primary mosque and has a largely congregational function. The Muslims of the city traditionally gather here to offer communal Friday prayer, as well as for major festivals such as Eid. The mosque is also a major tourist attraction and derives a significant amount of income through such visits.
At the time of its construction, the Jama Masjid was the largest mosque in the Indian subcontinent. It was modelled after the Jama Masjid of Fatehpur Sikri, reflected in the design of many exterior features, such as the facade and courtyard. However, the interior of the mosque more closely resembles the Jama Masjid in Agra. The mosque predominantly uses red sandstone and is set apart from its predecessors by more extensive usage of white marble. Black marble also features as a decorative element. Arabic and Persian calligraphic pieces are found on various surfaces of the structure, whose content ranges from religious to panegyric. The complex is oriented to the west, towards Mecca. An imperial college, imperial dispensary, and madrasa used to lie adjacent to the structure but were destroyed in the uprisings of 1857.
The mosque is accessed by three sandstone gates, with the most prominent being the three-storied high eastern gate, which historically acted as the shahi or royal entrance, reserved only for the use of the Emperor and his associates. The other two entrances are the northern and southern gates, which are two stories high and were used by the general population. Each gate is accompanied by a three-sided sandstone stairway, with white markings to designate prayer positions. The cabinet located in the north gate has a collection of relics of Muhammad, including the Quran written on deerskin, a red beard-hair of the prophet, his sandals, and his footprints embedded in a marble block. The square courtyard is paved with red sandstone and faces the eastern gate and can accommodate 25,000 worshippers. Open arcades run along the edges of the courtyard, through which the surroundings of the Masjid are visible. Chhatris mark the four corners of the courtyard, rising above the arcades.
Three marble domes rise from the roof of the prayer hall, featuring golden finials and the facade features a grand pishtaq in the centre, flanked by five smaller, cusped archways on either side. Above each archway of the prayer hall are some calligraphic pieces. The interior of the hall bears seven mihrabs or prayer niches on the western qibla wall, corresponding to the seven bays into which the hall is divided. The central mihrab is intricately decorated and clad in marble, with a marble minbar or pulpit lying to its right. The hall is floored with white and black ornamented marble to look like a Muslim prayer mat. The mosque’s domes are flanked by two sandstone minarets, at the northeast and southeast corners. They are 40 m high and longitudinally striped with white marble. Each minaret consists of 130 steps, along which viewing galleries occur at three places. Both minarets are topped with a marble chhatri.
The Imams of Delhi’s Jama Masjid have traditionally been the direct descendants of the first Imam of the Masjid, Syed Abdul Ghafoor Shah Bukhari, who was appointed by Shah Jahan. Their position is known as that of the Shahi Imam, or Royal Imam. The person next in line to the position is known as the Naib or Deputy Imam. The Shahi Imams bear the last name of Bukhari, denoting their ancestral origin in Bukhara in modern-day Uzbekistan.
The best time to visit the mosque is before 12 noon and between 2 and 4 pm. The most important prayer is held right before sunset between 4:30 and 5:30 p. Jama Masjid is open every day from 7 am to 12 noon and then again between 1:30 and 6:30 pm for muslims and for non-muslims, between 8 am to 30 minutes before sunset. The minaret is open between 9 am to 5:30 pm. While entry to the mosque is free, if you want to photograph the masjid, the cost for that is INR 200 while entry to the tower costs INR 100.
Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque Located within the Qutb Minar complex, the Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque which translates to the Might of Islam was built by the Mamluk ruler, Qutub-ud-din Aibak. This was the first mosque to be built in the city after the Islamic conquest of India. Also known as Jami Masjid, the construction of the mosque began in 1193 and is the oldest surviving testament of the Ghorids’ architecture in the Indian subcontinent. Subsequent additions were made to the monument during the reigns of Iltutmish and Alauddin Khilji. Initially, the mosque was conceived as a stand-alone structure but the Qutb Minar was constructed simultaneously as a Minar of the Jami Masjid so that the imam can use the minar to call the congregation for prayers.
The Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque resembles the structure and pattern of other monuments at the time built by the same ruler like the Adhai Din ka Jhopra and the Ajmer Mosque. A Persian inscription found at the site suggests that it required the destruction of twenty-seven Hindu and Jain temples to furnish the material for the construction of this mosque. Originally built with red sandstone, grey quartz and white marble, the building is currently in ruins. Layers of plaster have given way to reveal Hindu carvings on the original stone.
An example of Indo-Islamic architecture, the mosque includes a central courtyard and a grand prayer hall located to its west, huge arcades made of greystone, and a total of five bays. It also has an enormous central arch and comparatively smaller side arches. Both the screens and the pillars are carved with floral designs and religious texts. The mausoleum is built on an elevated platform with an ornate dome-shaped entrance borrowed from Hindu temples. The iron pillar is located in the front while the very popular Qutb Minar is located to its west. The mosque is open between 10 am and 5 pm. Entry fees are INR 10 for Indians and IR 250 for foreigners.
Fatehpuri Masjid Situated at the western end of Chandni Chowk, Fatehpuri Masjid is a 17th-century mosque named after the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan’s wife, Fatehpuri Begum. Built in 1650, the mosque is constructed entirely of red stone and boasts a fluted dome and towering minarets. The mosque has a vast central prayer hall designed with seven enormous arches and is famous for stationing the Indian troops during the war of 1857. Later, it was auctioned by the British to a local merchant, Rai Lala Chunnamal for INR 19000, who preserved and protected the mosque till 1877 when it was again acquired by the government in exchange for four villages. The mosque has three huge entrance gates, one of which opens across the road from Red Fort and the other two are located towards the North and South.
Fatehpuri Masjid has been built on an elevated platform of three and a half feet. Capped by a gigantic dome, the mosque is guarded by two towering minarets. The chief prayer hall has seven arches, the central of which is the highest. Both the dome and the arches have been made out of lime mortar and are striped black and white. Made entirely in red sandstone, the mausoleum has three entrance gates- the biggest of which opens across the road from Red Fort and the other two opens towards the North and South ends. The monument also boasts of a central courtyard which houses more than twenty graves of prominent Islamic scholars; single and double-storeyed apartments flank the courtyard. A very large tank grace the courtyard, the water from which is used for ablution.
Jamali Kamali Mosque and Tomb Situated in Mehrauli’s Archaeological Village Complex, Jamali Kamali Mosque and Tomb are the two structures situated beside one another. The mosque is surrounded by a garden area and is built in red sandstone with marble decorations. There’s a prayer hall with five arches embellished with medallions and other ornaments. The nooks and walls are adorned with inscriptions from the Koran. The tomb, adjacent to the mosque, is a flat monolith painted in red and blue and decorated with Koranic inscriptions and Jamali’s poems. The way to the tomb gives one the impression that one is stepping inside a jewellry box.
Jamali, also known as Shaikh Jamali Kamboh, was a famous Sufi saint from the pre-Mughal rule. He was buried in his tomb after his demise in 1535. On the other hand, Kamali was a common man who was associated with Jamali. Together the complex is regarded as Jamali Kamali as both these people were laid to rest next to each other under two marble graves. The construction of both the mosque and tomb began in 1528 and it took a whole year to complete. The mosque and tomb are open between 10 am and 6 pm.
Nizamuddin Dargah The mausoleum or dargah of the Sufi saint, Khwaja Nizamuddin Auliya who lived between 1238 and 1325, Nizamuddin Dargah is located in the Nizamuddin West and is visited by thousands of pilgrims every week. The Dargah is looked after by the descendants of Nizamuddin Auliya which is also known for its evening qawwali devotional music sessions. The tombs of Amir Khusrau, Nizamuddin’s disciple, and Jehan Ara Begum, Shah Jahan’s daughter, are located at the entrance to the complex. The dargah complex has more than 70 graves. The complex was renovated and restored by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture around 2010.
Nizamuddin’s tomb has a white dome. The main structure was built by Muhammad bin Tughluq in 1325, following Nizamuddin’s death. Firuz Shah Tughlaq later repaired the structure and suspended four golden cups from the dome’s recesses. Nawab Khurshid Jah of Hyderabad’s Paigah Family gifted the marble balustrade that surrounds the grave. The present dome which is about 6 m by 6 m in diameter was built by Faridun Khan in 1562. The structure underwent many additions over the years. The Dargah is surrounded by a marble patio and is covered with intricate jalis or trellis walls.
Next to the dargah is the Jamat Khana Masjid built of red sandstone and has three bays. Its stone walls are carved with inscriptions of texts from the Quran with arches that have been embellished with lotus buds, in addition to the facade of its dome having ornamental medallions. Built during the reign of Alauddin Khalji by his son Khizr Khan and completed between 1312 and 1313, Khizr was responsible for the central dome and hall and was a follower of Nizamuddin. Around 1325, when Muhammad bin Tughlaq took over the reign, he constructed the two adjoining halls, each of which has two domes. The southern hall or chhoti masjid or little mosque is restricted to women and features a wooden door. The large dome of the mosque features a golden bowl that is suspended from the centre.
At the back entrance of the complex is a baoli or stepwell, commissioned by Nizamuddin himself and completed in 1321. It is close to the Yamuna river and is always filled. People believe that its waters have magical powers and bathe in it. According to legend, Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq had commissioned the Tughlaqabad Fort at the same time the baoli was being built. Because he forbade all workers from working on the stepwell, they would work on it at night. Upon discovering this, the supply of oil was restricted. The masons then lit their lamps with the water of the baoli, after a blessing.
The area has been a hub for cultural activities in Delhi since the 13th century, leading to many building important buildings close to the area, including Humayun’s Tomb and Sunder Nursery, a 16th-century heritage park. The tombs of Mirza Ghalib and Abdul Rahim Khan-I-Khana are also located in this area due to their cultural significance. The other important monuments in the Nizamuddin heritage area include Barakhamba and Lal Mahal.
The area is referred to as the nerve centre of Sufi culture in India. On the 17th and 18th day of the Islamic month of Rabi’ al-awwal, thousands gather to observe the birth anniversary and urs or death anniversary of the saint. Besides this, thousands also visit during the birth and death anniversaries of Amir Khusrau, Nizamuddin’s disciple. Hundreds visit the dargah everyday throughout the year to pray. The Dargah has a tradition of qawwali, especially the one every Thursday night attracting about 1500 visitors. The regular qawwalis occur every evening after the Maghrib or evening prayer. Women are traditionally not allowed inside the dargah’s inner sanctum. The evening prayers in which lamps are lit, called the Dua-e-Roshni, is an important ritual. Pilgrims gather around the khadim, the caretaker, who prays for the wishes of all those gathered to be granted.
The festival of Basant Panchami is also celebrated at the dargah. According to legend, Nizamuddin was deeply attached to his nephew, Khwaja Taqiuddin Nuh, who died due to an illness. Nizamuddin grieved over him for a long time. Khusrau, his disciple, wanted to see him smile and dressed up in yellow and began celebrating the onset of Basant, after spotting some women do the same. This caused Auliya to smile, an occasion that is commemorated to this day. The Dargah is open daily between 5 am and 10:30 pm.
Humayun’s Tomb The tomb of the Mughal Emperor, Humayan, Humayun’s tomb was commissioned by Humayun’s first wife and chief consort, Empress Bega Begum under her patronage in 1558. The first garden-tomb in the Indian subcontinent, the tomb is located close to the Dina-panah Citadel, also known as Purana Qila, which Humayun constructed in 1538. It was also the first structure to use red sandstone in such a scale and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993. Besides the main tomb enclosure of Humayun, several smaller monuments dot the pathway leading up to it, from the main entrance in the west, including one that even pre-dates the main tomb itself, by twenty years; it is the tomb complex of Isa Khan Niyazi, an Afghan noble in Sher Shah Suri’s court of the Suri dynasty, who fought against the Mughals, which was constructed in 1547.
The complex encompasses the main tomb of Emperor Humayun, and also houses the graves of Empress Bega Begum, Hamida Begum, and also Dara Shikoh, great-great-grandson of Humayun and son of Emperor Shah Jahan, as well as numerous other subsequent Mughals. It represented a leap in Mughal architecture, and together with its accomplished Charbagh garden, typical of Persian gardens, but never seen before in India, it set a precedent for subsequent Mughal architecture.
The tomb’s site was chosen on the banks of the Yamuna river, due to its proximity to the Nizamuddin Dargah. In later Mughal history, the last Mughal Emperor, Bahadur Shah Zafar took refuge here, during the Indian Rebellion of 1857, along with three princes, and was captured by Captain Hodson before being exiled to Rangoon. The Tombs of Battashewala Complex lie in the buffer zone of the World Heritage Site of the Humayun Tomb Complex; the two complexes are separated by a small road but enclosed within their separate compound wall. The tomb of Humayun was built by his first wife and chief consort, Empress Bega Begum, also known as Haji Begum. Construction began in 1565 and was completed in 1572.
During the partition of India, Purana Qila together with Humayun’s Tomb, became the major refugee camps for Muslims migrating to the newly founded state of Pakistan. An important phase in the restoration of the complex began around 1993, when the monument was declared a World Heritage Site. Excavation process began under the aegis of the Aga Khan Trust and the ASI which culminated in 2003, when much of the complex and gardens were restored, with the historic fountains running once again after several centuries of disuse.
The high rubble built enclosure is entered through two lofty double-storeyed gateways on the west and south, 16 metres high with rooms on either side of the passage and small courtyards on the upper floors. The tomb, built of rubble masonry and red sandstone, uses white marble as a cladding material and also for the flooring, lattice screens, door frames, eaves, and the main dome. It stands on a vaulted terrace eight m high and spread over 12,000 sq m. It is essentially square in design, though chamfered on the edges to appear octagonal, to prepare the ground for the design of the interior structure. The plinth made with rubble core has fifty-six cells all around and houses over 100 gravestones. The entire base structure is on a raised platform, a few steps high. The double or double-layered dome has an outer layer that supports the white marble exterior, while the inner part gives shape to the cavernous interior volume. In a contrast to the pure white exterior dome, the rest of the building is made up of red sandstone, with white and black marble and yellow sandstone detailing, to relieve the monotony.
The symmetrical and simple design on the exterior is in sharp contrast with the complex interior floor plan, of the inner chambers, which is a square ninefold plan, where eight two-storied vaulted chambers radiate from the central, double-height domed chamber. It can be entered through an imposing entrance iwan or high arc on the south, which is slightly recessed, while other sides are covered with intricate jaalis, stone latticework. Underneath this white dome in a domed chamber or hujra, lies the central octagonal sepulchre, the burial chamber containing a single cenotaph. The Cenotaph is aligned on the north-south axis, as per Islamic tradition while the real burial chamber lies in an underground chamber, exactly beneath the upper cenotaph. The main chamber also carries the symbolic element, a mihrab design over the central marble lattice or jaali, facing Mecca in the west.
While the main tomb took over eight years to build, it was also placed in the centre of a 30-acre Charbagh, a Persian-style garden with a quadrilateral layout. The highly geometrical and enclosed Paradise garden is divided into four squares by paved walkways and two bisecting central water channels, reflecting the four rivers that flow in Jannat, the Islamic concept of paradise. Each of the four squares are further divided into 8 smaller gardens with pathways, creating 32 miniature gardens in all, with the mausoleum in the centre, a design typical of later Mughal gardens. The central water channels appear to be disappearing beneath the tomb structure and reappearing on the other side in a straight line, suggesting a Quranic verse that talks of rivers flowing beneath the Garden of Paradise.
The tomb and garden are enclosed within high rubble walls on three sides. The fourth side was meant to be the river Yamuna, which has since shifted course away from the structure. The central walkways terminate at two gates – a main one on the southern wall, and a smaller one on the western wall. It has two double-storey entrances; the west gate is currently used, while the south gate, which was used by the Mughals, is now closed. Aligned at the centre on the eastern wall lies a baradari, which is a building or room with twelve doors designed to allow the free draught of air through it. On the northern wall lies a hammam, a bath chamber.
Other monuments within the complex includes the tomb and mosque of Isa Khan Niyazi dating back to 1547, Bu Halima’s Tomb and Garden Afsarwala’s Tomb and Mosque, Arab Serai which used to be stables, Nila Gumbad and Chillah Nizamuddin Aulia believed to be the residence of Nizamuddin Auliya located just outside the main complex.
Humayun’s Tomb is open daily between 10 am and 6 pm and entry fees are INR 10 for Indians and INR 250 for foreigners. For filming videos, one needs to pay INR 25 while photography is free.
Safdarjung’s Tomb An elegant mausoleum built of marble and sandstone boasting of an 18th-century Mughal architectural style, Safdarjung’s Tomb was built in 1754 during the reign of Mughal Emperor Ahmad Shah Bahadur. The tomb is dedicated to the Prime Minister of the emperor, Safdarjung. The mausoleum boasts of a tranquil ambience with an enormous dome, elaborate arches, and intricate architecture.
The mausoleum was built by Safdarjung’s son Shuja-ud-Daula and is one the very last specimens of Mughal architecture and signifies the downfall of the dynasty. The garden tomb is built in a fashion similar to that Humayun’s Tomb, and also houses several pavilions, a madrasa and a library at the entrance, managed by the Archaeological Survey of India.
The tomb’s design had four key features in the char bagh style – the mausoleum surrounded by four gardens, the nine-fold floor, five facade design and a huge rostrum with a secret passageway. The front of the monument has intricate ornamentation. The main mausoleum has high arched walls with intricate carvings, the cenotaph is reposed on the square central chamber, and the dome rests on top of the terrace. The underground chamber beneath the cenotaph has the graves of Safdarjung and his wife. Built entirely with red and buff stones, the interiors of the tomb are covered in rococo plasterwork. Four polygonal towers decorated in marble and possessing huge arches occupy the corners of the tomb from the outside. The rear side of the monument houses a library and several rooms. To its right, is a mosque. Built in the conventional style of Mughal architecture and closely on the lines of the Taj Mahal, the structure appears unbalanced due to accentuated prominence of the vertical axis, with a more elongated dome and the four minarets a part of the main monument, unlike the Taj Mahal where the minarets are detached.
The gardens surrounding the mausoleum are built in the typical Mughal charbagh style, styled on the designs of Humayun’s Tomb. Fenced by a 280 m high wall, the gardens are further divided into four squares with neat little pathways and sparkling water tanks. One passage leads to the main gate while the others lead to the pavilions. The main mausoleum stands on a dais 50 m in height. Four pavilions and octagonal chhatris or towers with arches built in rubble stone masonry, complete the structure of the monument. The pavilions in the western, southern and northern directions are called Jangli Mahal, Badshah Pasand and Moti Mahal respectively. These pavilions were originally the residence of the Nawab’s family. In addition, the complex also houses several tiny apartments, a mosque and a courtyard. The tomb is open between 7 am and 6 pm and has an entry fee of INR 15 for Indians and INR 200 for foreigners. Children under the age of 15 have free entry.
Isa Khan’s Tomb Located adjacent to Humayun’s Tomb in the same complex Isa Khan’s Tomb is the final resting place of Isa Khan, a courtesan of Sher Shah Suri, and his son Islam Shah Suri. Built during Sher Shah Suri’s lifetime, the construction of the monument resembles the architecture of the Suri reign. The tomb boasts lattice screens, glazed tiles and a deep verandah. The octagonal tomb has an architectural finesse which is apparent in the distinctive ornamentation of the monument in the form of glazed canopied and elaborate carvings.
Standing south of the Bu Halima garden, the main tombstone is made out of red sandstone and is marked with the inscription addressed to Isa Khan and the date of the construction. Restoration of the monument led to the discovery of sunken gardens, which are considered the earliest examples of the technique. At the corner of the tomb is situated a tiny mosque with matching architecture and patterns from those of the tomb. The mosque was built at the same time as the tomb and was supposed to be the prayer room for Isa Khan.
The tomb was constructed by Isa Khan in his lifetime who died a few months after the tomb was finished. The monument boasts a massive arched gateway and is circumferenced by a wide verandah with each side of the octagon having triple arch entrances adorned with blue, green, and yellow glazed tiles. Each of the eight corners is supported by pillars that rise above to form a minaret. A magnificent dome sits on the roof and is decorated with an inverted lotus filial. In addition to that, eight chhatris occupy the right sides of the octagon. Seven walls of the tomb have intricate lattice or jaali work, except the eighth western wall which has a mihrab. The walls and the roof have beautiful fresco paintings. The frescos are a beautiful amalgamation of flowers, geometrical patterns and calligraphy. The mosque in the complex also has a triple-arched gateway with similar glazed tile work in yellow, blue and green and the same pattern frescos on the walls.
The tomb is open between 10 am and 6 pm and has an entry fee of INR 30 for Indians while foreigners need to pay INR 500. Filming videos will incur a charge of INR 25 while still photography is free.
Hijron ka Khanqah Located in Mehrauli, Hijron ka Khanqah is the Islamic monument for the burial of Muslim transgenders. The name translates to spiritual retreat for eunuchs, and the cemetery is situated within the Archaeological Park in Mehrauli. Dating back to the 15th century, the pre-Mughal monument houses forty-nine graves of the eunuchs who died during the reign of the Lodhi dynasty. The memorial is managed by the Hijras or eunuchs of Turkman Gate since the 20th century.
The compound has a narrow entry gate that leads to a marble patio which is dotted with white-coloured graves all over. Adjacent to the cemetery is a tiny terrace and on the west, in the direction of Kaaba is a mosque. Among the many tombs in the graveyard, the most important is that of a prominent hijra called Miyan Saheb.
Nicholson Cemetery Situated in the heart of the city in Kashmere Gate and formerly known as Old Delhi Military Cemetery or the Kashmere Gate Cemetery, Nicholson Cemetery, also known as Lothian Cemetery is an ancient Christian cemetery named after the Brigadier-General John Nicholson, a Victorian-era military officer who played a crucial role during the Indian Rebellion of 1857 and succumbed to injuries during the revolt. The cemetery is a burial ground for both British and Indian Christians during British colonial rule.
Located amidst wild bushes on the trail to the left is the grave of John Nicholson. Not much further is a tiny cottage occupied by the caretaker and his family. The cemetery is also notoriously popular for ghostly activities and according to the Indian Paranormal Society, the headless apparition of John Nicholson haunts the place.
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Memories and Such 