2022 Week 05 Update

Bye Bye Bombay/Mumbai

Namaskaras from the Silicon Valley of India aka Bengaluru, the largest city and capital of the southern state of Karnataka. On the outskirts of the city, in a small community about 32 km south of the city is my parent’s new home, at least for the time being.

I’ve been in Mumbai for the past two weeks now and it has been an intense two weeks what with packing things to be sent with the movers, then clearing up the house and finally packing up and moving to a new place. When the flight took off from Mumbai, my heart swelled up and I can imagine how my mum and dad would have felt, having lived their whole lives in the maximum city. But life moves on and we must adjust to it, so this will be their new home for the near future at least.

I’ve not walked much here in Mumbai, so my step count for the month is not as much as it would have been had I been in Singapore. I am now in India and the state of Manipur. At the end of January, I was slightly over 100 km from the state’s border with Nagaland. I am still about 3000 km from Mumbai and 4200 km from Bengaluru, so there’s still a long way to go.

This week’s quote comes to us from Eleanor Roosevelt, the longest serving first lady of the United States from 1933 to 1945 and a noted human rights activist. Roosevelt reminds us only we can make ourselves feel inferior, so do not give yourself or others the permission to let you feel less than the best. We are awesome human beings and we know it!

And so with this, here’s to spending the last week with my parents before I head back home to my family, work and responsibilities.

In My Hands Today…

Big Sister, Little Sister, Red Sister: Three Women at the Heart of Twentieth-Century China – Jung Chang

They were the most famous sisters in China. As the country battled through a hundred years of wars, revolutions and seismic transformations, the three Soong sisters from Shanghai were at the center of power, and each of them left an indelible mark on history.

Red Sister, Ching-ling, married the ‘Father of China’, Sun Yat-sen, and rose to be Mao’s vice-chair.

Little Sister, May-ling, became Madame Chiang Kai-shek, first lady of pre-Communist Nationalist China and a major political figure in her own right.

Big Sister, Ei-ling, became Chiang’s unofficial main adviser – and made herself one of China’s richest women.

All three sisters enjoyed tremendous privilege and glory, but also endured constant mortal danger. They showed great courage and experienced passionate love, as well as despair and heartbreak. They remained close emotionally, even when they embraced opposing political camps and Ching-ling dedicated herself to destroying her two sisters’ worlds.

Big Sister, Little Sister, Red Sister is a gripping story of love, war, intrigue, bravery, glamour and betrayal, which takes us on a sweeping journey from Canton to Hawaii to New York, from exiles’ quarters in Japan and Berlin to secret meeting rooms in Moscow, and from the compounds of the Communist elite in Beijing to the corridors of power in democratic Taiwan. In a group biography that is by turns intimate and epic, Jung Chang reveals the lives of three extraordinary women who helped shape twentieth-century China.

Travel Bucket List: India – Manipur Part 2

Moirang
A small town, about 45 km south of Imphal, Moirang is famous for the ancient temple of Lord Thangjing and the legendary love story of Khamba Thoibi with the clothes used by Khamba and Nogban still preserved in the village of Ngangkhaleikai. The epic story is between a beautiful princess Thoibi, daughter of King Wangon Ningthou Chingkhu Naha Telheiba and an orphan boy Khamba, who was raised by his sister when orphaned.

In ancient times, the King of Moirang was considered the most powerful among the seven clan kings of Manipur. Till the end of the Khamba-Thoibi era, the Burmese King paid the annual war reparations money to the Moirang kings. During World War II, Moirang was the headquarters of the Indian National Army (INA). Colonel Shaukat Malik of the Indian National Army hoisted the tricolour for the first time on Indian soil on 14 April 1944, in Moirang. The INA Museum at Moirang displays some wartime relics and photographs.

Since Moirang houses a serene lake and a national park, it is bound to be abundant in flora and fauna. A large number of animals and birds live here and can be spotted easily. Animals including sambar, barking deer, monkeys and Sangai deer as well as birds such as hornbills, ducks, crows and kingfishers and migratory birds can be found here.

The largest freshwater lake in the country, Loktak Lake and the Sendra Island on it, are located about 50 km from Imphal, in Moirang in the Imphal valley. Loktak which means the end stream is famous for the phumdis or the heterogeneous mass of vegetation, soil and organic matter at various stages of decomposition floating over it. The largest of all the phumdis, Sendra Island covers an area of 40 sq km and is situated on the south-eastern shore of the lake. Located on this phumdi is the Keibul Lamjao National Park, the only floating national park in the world which is the last natural refuge of the endangered Sangai, the state animal, the Manipur brow-antlered deer, one of three subspecies of Eld’s deer.

The ancient lake plays an important role in the economy of Manipur and serves as a source of water for hydropower generation, irrigation and drinking water supply as well is a source of livelihood for the rural fishermen who live in the surrounding areas and on the phumdis, also known as phumshongs. The lake was initially designated as a wetland of international importance under the Ramsar Convention on 23 March 1990 and also listed under the Montreux Record on 16 June 1993.

The Lake is divided into two zones, namely, the Core Zone which is the no-development zone or totally protected zone comprising 70.3 sq km and the balance area is called the Buffer Zone. Within the lake and on its periphery, there are 14 hills of varying size and elevation with the Sendra, Ithing and Thanga islands on the southern part of the lake. Geographically, in terms of biodiversity and pressure of human activities, the lake is broadly divided into northern, central and southern zones.

Thanga Island is the largest island in Loktak Lake as well as a religious destination for both Hindu and Sanamahists due to its numerous temples and sacred sites. Karang Island is the second-largest island in the lake and is famous for the Ebudhou Khuman Apokpa Temple and the Ibudhou Khumanpokpa Temple, temples of the ancestral deities of the Khuman Dynasty of Manipur. Ithing Islet is a human-inhabited islet situated on the way to Thanga Island.

The Northern Zone has five main streams or rivers flowing into the lake and is separated from the central zone by large phumdis that stretch from the northwest to the southeast. The Central Zone encloses prominent islands of Thanga, Karang and Ithing and is the main open water zone of the lake, which was relatively free from phumdis in the past, but over the years athaphums or artificially created phumdis for fishing constructed by villagers for fishing have proliferated choking the entire lake. The Southern Zone encompasses the Keibul Lamjao National Park, Ungamel and Kumbi pats at the southern part of the lake and the zone is linked with Khuga River by the Ungamel channel. Loktak Day is observed every year on the 15th of October at the periphery of the lake. The lake is open daily between 8 am to 6 pm.

The only floating national park in the world, the Keibul Lamjao National Park is a vital part of the Loktak Lake. Created in 1966 as a wildlife sanctuary to preserve the natural habitat of the endangered Eld’s deer or Cervus eldi eldi, locally known as Sangai and gazetted as a national park in 1977, it is characterised by floating decomposed plant material locally called phumdi. The brow-antlered deer, first discovered in Manipur in 1839 was reported an extinct species in 1951. It was re–discovered in the Keibul Lamjao Park area and so this area was declared a national park to protect and conserve the deer now called Eld’s deer’s subspecies brow-antlered deer. From a small herd of 14 in 1975, its population was reportedly 260 in 2016.

Covering an area of over 40 sq km, the Keibul Lamjao National Park is home to various species of plants and animals, including migratory visitors and hosts over 450 varieties of orchids and over 100 species of aquatic flora and numerous species of birds. The floating marshes or the Phumdis consist of vegetation that is about 120 cms thick.

The best time to visit Keibul Lamjao National Park is between October and March as the Lake water levels are suitable to explore the park.

It is best to visit the park from 6 to 10 am and between 3:30 and 6 pm as this is when the Sangai deer come out to feed in herds. A boat trip along the labyrinthine boat routes passing through colourful water plants would also be a good way to see the park. The park itself is open from 7:30 am to 5:30 pm and entry fees for Indians is INR 30 per person while foreigners would need to pay INR 200 per person. Camera Charges for Indians are INR 50 per person while it is INR 250 for foreigners and car park charges are INR 100 per vehicle.

Sendra Island encompasses a small hillock that is surrounded by water. Although a small hillock entangled by the lake water on all sides, it is linked to the mainland through a pathway. There is a tourist lodge on the hilltop. The serene water around the hillock and the verdant trees magnify the beauty of this place making it picturesque.

The Indian National Army Complex was once used as the unofficial headquarters of the Indian National Army. The INA Memorial Complex was built to honour the soldiers who had sacrificed their lives for the country with letters, photographs and other artefacts available here. There is a bronze statue of Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose erected in the complex which is open from 8 am to 6 pm daily.

Moirang is also a land of temples as a lot of beautifully constructed temples with pristine aura are located here. The Pakhangba Temple, the Loktak Maru Temple, the Ibudhou Thangnarel Temple, the Oknarel Temple, the Radha Mandhop Temple and the Gopinath temple are some of the famous ones.

The Ibudhou Thangjing Temple or the Lord Thangjing Temple is an ancient temple dedicated to Lord Eputhou Thangjing, the ancient national deity of the ancient kingdom of Moirang. The best time to visit the temple is between May and July during the onset of the great mega music and dance religious festival of Lai Haraoba which attracts thousands of tourists every year especially historians and archaeologists. The temple is where the great Khamba Thoibi dance was performed for the first time according to a famous legend.

Located near the western borders of Loktak Lake, about 5 km from Moirang, Phubala has many attractions and can be combined with a trip to the lake. The two islands at Phubala has water sports activities and visitors can also enjoy picturesque views of the lake.

Tamenglong
Located about 145 km west of Imphal, Tamenglong is a hilly district covered by valleys and ranges. It lies on the hilltop from which descends the Barak River. The town is described as a biodiversity hub with a variety of exotic and rare species of birds and animals. This town is known for the oranges grown here and is home to some of the most unique plants and animals. The vibrant forest here provides a habitat for hog deers, leopards, wild dogs, hyenas, tigers and many more. The forest covers can be distinguished into three different types namely the bamboo brakes, the tropical evergreen forest and subtropical forests. Attractions include the Barak Waterfall which takes visitors through a series of seven waterfalls, the Zeilad Lake famous for many pythons, fish, water birds, large tortoises and ducks, the Buning Meadows and the Tharon Caves.

The tribal population in Tamenglong, comprises the Zeliangrong Nagas and the Kukis. Festivals celebrated in the town include the Orange Festival, the Gudui-Ngai, the Rih-Ngai or the Chaga Ngai, the Banruhmei and the Tarang. The best time to visit the town is between October and March.

The Tharon Cave is a 655.6 m long cave which can be explored with the help of the map drawn outside the cave. Also spelt as the Thaeuluan Cave, it is located about 27 km from Tamenglong. The cave has five exits and 34 joints. The Tharon Cave was once used as a shelter and excavations inside the cave have items related to the Hoabinhian culture of North Vietnam. The cave is an abode for fruit bats with about 12 caves located underneath.

Also known as N-piulong Valley, Buning Meadow is coloured with beautiful lilies and orchids making the place look stunning. The Meadow is filled with multitudes of birds and animals including Hoolock, gibbons and foxes. The summer months between March and June are the best time to visit the meadow when it is in full glory.

Situated near the Zeliadjung or Atenba village on a high platform up on the hill, the Zeilad Lake is a must-visit tourist attraction. Home to pythons, fish, tortoises and water and migratory birds, this is why the lake is a tourist favourite. Naga tales reveal that Zeilad Lake is where paddy originated. The lake has recently been declared as one of the four wildlife sanctuaries of Manipur and is also known as the Zeilad Wildlife Sanctuary. The best time to visit the lake is between October and April as the weather remains cool and pleasant.

The Barak Waterfalls are a must-visit place where seven other waterfalls are located close to each other. A local favourite to picnic, the aqua green falls and the sight of the cool water gushing from the hills to the plains is something that needs to be seen and experienced.

Thoubal
Located about 23 km south of the capital Imphal, Thoubal town’s name comes from the word Athouba meaning brave people symbolising the courageous people here. It is one of the larger towns of Manipur and has an idyllic feel to it with many lakes and rivers, paddy fields, and gardens. It is also the window to South-East Asia as the Trans-Asian highway (AH1) passes through it.

Thoubal is ideal for trekking, hiking and picnics given the abundance of the green landscape and is famous for the temples and the numerous water bodies with many lakes dotting the landscape. There is a diverse variety of trees and bamboos and plantains can be seen all around.

The main attractions include the Chinga Lairembi temple, the Tomjing Ching, the Panthoibee temple, the Thoubal bazaar, the Tangjeng ching from where one can have a bird’s eye view of the Waithou Lake and the Khangabok Menjor Garden. Thoubal also has the distinction of having the first and only subway in Manipur.

The Ikop Lake, located at an altitude of 772 m above sea level has a saucer-shaped basin and a silted bottom. The Lousi Lake spreads over an area of 18.64 sq km and features a wetland ecosystem. It is a major source of water for the locals. Pumlenpat lake is a freshwater lake and is also known as the Pumlen Pa. It spreads over an area of 19 sq km and is covered by phumdis and floating soil and vegetation, similar to the Loktak Lake. The lake is the second largest lake in Manipur after the Loktak Lake and is located about 68 km south of Imphal and about 45 km from Thoubal and plays an important role in the lives of the people nearby. There are plenty of small islands on this lake and once people started settling on these islands, the lake is now on the verge of extinction due to human encroachment.

The historically important Khongjom marks the site where Major General Paona along with his soldiers fought against the British invasion, ending in complete British control over Manipur. There is an open-air gallery in which a 78 feet long boat called the Hiyang Hiren can be viewed. Science fairs and exhibitions are also organised here.

In My Hands Today…

Our Heritage Revisited : A glimpse into Ancient Indian texts – Anju Saha

Ever wondered what is in the Veds and Upanishads? The terms Shruti, Smriti, Puran, Agam, Nigam, Advait, Vedant philosophy to name a few have been heard – but what exactly are these? This book attempts to bring all of this and more in a quick-read for an overall perspective.

We in India are blessed with a great literary heritage and tremendous cultural, philosophical and traditional wealth. However the contents of ancient Indian scriptures have generally remained an enigma and most of the existing works available to readers, take up for commentary, an individual text for a detailed understanding but an overall picture is not easily available.

This book attempts to present a user-friendly description of these texts and their evolutionary account. It is a simple version, meant for someone keen to get an overview of our amazing ancient scriptures but may have found existing books too exhaustive.

World Wetlands Day

Today is the World Wetlands Day. Dating back to 1971, World Wetlands Day is an environmentally-related celebration that reaffirms the protection and love for wetlands, which are the small environments of plant life and organisms found within water bodies that bring about ecological health in abundance to not only water bodies but environments as a whole. First celebrated in 1997, World Wetlands Day serves to recognise the influence and positive production that Wetlands have had on the world and in terms brings communities together for the benefit of Mother Nature. This day also raises global awareness because wetlands play a significant role in people and on the planet. The day was formally acknowledged by the United Nations on 30 August 2021as World Wetlands Day. 2 February each year is World Wetlands Day to raise global awareness about the vital role of wetlands for people and our planet. This day also marks the date of the adoption of the Convention on Wetlands on 2 February 1971, in the Iranian city of Ramsar on the shores of the Caspian Sea.

A patch of land that develops pools of water after a rainstorm would not necessarily be considered a wetland, even though the land is wet. Wetlands have unique characteristics: they are generally distinguished from other water bodies or landforms based on their water level and on the types of plants that live within them. Specifically, wetlands are characterised as having a water table that stands at or near the land surface for a long enough period each year to support aquatic plants. A wetland is a distinct ecosystem that is flooded by water, either permanently or seasonally. Flooding results in oxygen-free or anoxic processes prevailing, especially in the soils. Wetlands are considered among the most biologically diverse of all ecosystems, serving as home to a wide range of unique plant and animal species and occur naturally on every continent, except for Antarctica. The water in wetlands is either freshwater, brackish or salt water and the main wetland types are classified based on the dominant plants and/or the source of the water. Wetlands contribute several functions that benefit people and are called ecosystem services and include water purification, groundwater replenishment, stabilization of shorelines and storm protection, water storage and flood control, processing of carbon including carbon fixation, decomposition and sequestration, other nutrients and pollutants, and support of plants and animals. Wetlands also place a role in climate change mitigation and adaptation. The world’s largest wetlands include the Amazon River basin, the West Siberian Plain, the Pantanal in South America, and the Sundarbans in the Ganges-Brahmaputra delta. According to the UN Millennium Ecosystem Assessment, wetlands are more affected by environmental degradation than any other ecosystem on Earth.

Over time, human construction has led to various ecological problems affecting wetlands. Overpopulation and construction have led to a decrease in environmental conservation and total has brought issues to these lands. Many wetlands are being lost and ecologists claim that humans should recognise this dilemma before the loss of a natural filter and conserver of the world.

The theme for the 2022 World Wetlands Day is Wetlands Action for People & Nature and today the Convention on Wetlands and its Contracting Parties will launch the next World Wetlands Day campaign to scale wetlands conservation actions for people and planetary health.