Some would say Becky Gerard is a devoted mother and would do anything for her only child. Others claim she’s obsessed and can’t stop the vicious circle of finding a cure at her daughter’s expense.
Fifteen-year-old Meghan has been in and out of hospitals with a plague of unexplained illnesses. But when the ailments take a sharp turn, doctors intervene and immediately suspect Munchausen syndrome by proxy, a rare behavioral disorder where the primary caretaker, typically the mother, seeks medical help for made-up symptoms of a child. Is this what’s going on? Or is there something even more sinister at hand?
Let’s now go about 215 km north of the capital city of Bhopal to the town of Chanderi, another place associated with a saree, found in every Indian woman’s wardrobe.
A town of historical importance, Chanderi is surrounded by hills southwest of the Betwa River as well as lakes and forests and has several monuments of the Bundela Rajputs and the Malwa sultans. It is famous for ancient Jain Temples.
Located strategically on the borders of Malwa and Bundelkhand, Chanderi’s history goes back to the 11th century, when it was dominated by the trade routes of Central India and was proximate to the arterial route to the ancient ports of Gujarat as well as to Malwa, Mewar, Central India and the Deccan. Consequently, Chanderi became an important military outpost. The town also finds mention in Mahabharata. Shishupal was the king of Chanderi during the Mahabharata period. Chanderi is mentioned by the Persian scholar Alberuni in 1030. Ghiyas ud din Balban captured the city in 1251 for Nasiruddin Mahmud, Sultan of Delhi. Sultan Mahmud I Khilji of Malwa captured the city in 1438 after a siege of several months. In 1520 Rana Sanga of Mewar captured the city, and gave it to Medini Rai, a rebellious minister of Sultan Mahmud II of Malwa. In the Battle of Chanderi, the Mughal Emperor Babur captured the city from Medini Rai and witnessed the macabre Rajput rite of jauhar, in which, faced with certain defeat and in an attempt to escape dishonor in the hands of the enemy, women with children in their arms jumped in a fire pit to commit suicide, which was made for this specific purpose, against the background of vedic hymns recited by the priests. Jauhar was performed during the night and in the morning the men would rub the ashes of their dead women folk on their forehead, don a saffron garment known as kesariya, chew tulsi leaves, symbolizing their awareness about impending death and resolve to fight and die with honour. In 1540 it was captured by Sher Shah Suri, and added to the governorship of Shujaat Khan. The Mughal Emperor Akbar made the city a sarkar in the subah of Malwa. According to Ain-e-Akbari, the autobiography of Akbar, Chanderi had 14000 stone houses and boasted of 384 markets, 360 spacious caravan sarais or resting place and 12,000 mosques.
The Bundela Rajputs captured the city in 1586, and it was held by Ram Sab, a son of Raja Madhukar of Orchha. In 1680 Devi Singh Bundela was made governor of the city, and Chanderi remained in the hands of his family until it was annexed in 1811 by Jean Baptiste Filose for the Maratha ruler Daulat Rao Sindhia of Gwalior. The city was transferred to the British in 1844. The British lost control of the city during the Revolt of 1857, and the city was recaptured by Hugh Rose on 14 March 1858. The city was transferred back to the Scindias of Gwalior in 1861, and became part of Gwalior state. After India’s independence, Gwalior became part of the new state of Madhya Bharat, which was merged into Madhya Pradesh on 1 November 1956. Chanderi has been a major centre of Jain culture and was a major centre of the Parwar Jain community.
Chanderi Fort: Standing proudly at a eight of 71 feet above the town on a hill, Chanderi Fort is fortified by a 5 km long wall. Built by King Kirti Pal in the 11th century, the fort has witnessed several attacks and has been re-built a number of times. The fort has three gates as entrances with the uppermost gate known as Hawa Paur and the lowermost gate is known as Khooni Darwaza. The southwest side of the fort has an interesting gateway called the Katti-Ghatti. There are several attractions situated inside the Chanderi fort, like the Khilji Mosque, Naukhanda palace, tomb of Hazrat Abdul Rahman, etc. A rest house situated on the northern ridge of the fort is the main attraction of the monument as it presents a wonderful view of the town below.
Badal Mahal Darwaza: A singular structure of a gate, the Badal Mahal Darwaza doesn’t lead to any palace or mahal. This historic gate enjoys a central location in Chanderi, near the Jama Masjid and was constructed by Sultan Mehmood Shah Khilji, the King of Malwa, in the 15th century to mark a significant victory. The Badal Mahal Darwaza has a height of 100 ft and features elaborate carvings and impressive motifs. The top of the gate features an arched design and two tall minarets stand guard on both sides. The specialty of the structural design is that a gap exists above the arched top of the gate, which is followed by another arch, which brings up the end of the gate. This gate served the purpose of welcoming and honouring the state guests and visiting kings in a grand manner.
Koshak Mahal: An impressive palace at a distance of 4 km from Chanderi, the Koshak Mahal palace was built by the Sultan of Malwa, Mehmood Shah Khilji, in 1445 to mark the victory of Mehmood Shah in the battle at Kalpi over Sultan Mehmood Sharki. Koshak Mahal is a square structure with large impressive arched doorways and consists of four mansions of similar size and equally spaced from one another with a network of passages and overhead covered corridors connect them. The superstructure of the palace does not exist today, but the beauty of the palace can still be felt in the remaining portion standing there. Koshak Mahal was constructed from white local sandstone with all four mansions featuring an identical style of architecture and design. The palace today stands with three complete storeys and an incomplete fourth storey.
Raja Mahal: A seven storied palace in Andar Shehar, Raja Mahal is one of the few remaining palaces that still grace the landscape of Chanderi. Chanderi once had around 260 palaces, of which only 43 have managed to exist. The palace features architectural style of the 15th century and is a beautiful structure constructed from grey and white sandstones and has elaborate carvings to display. The palace is truly a magnificent structure that has large courtyards, elegant stairways, beautifully carved pillars and open pavilions on the terrace. The palace has an underground passage connecting it to another palace standing nearby. This smaller palace is known as the Rani Mahal, which is quite different in architecture and style to the Raja Mahal. These two palaces together are known as the Rajmahal.
Rani Mahal: The smaller of the two palaces, Rani Mahal is a four storied structure that is connected to the Raja Mahal through a secret passage. The Rani Mahal displays the Bundela style of architecture with the exact period of construction of the palace not known though it is believed to be prior to the 16th century. The palace is an enclosed structure with a large courtyard surrounding it with spacious corridors beautiful pillars. The terrace was built with pavilions that were used as watch towers.
Shahzadi ka Rouza: An impressive monument built on a 12 ft high podium, the Shahzadi ka Rouza is situated near the Parmeshwar Pond. The outside wall features a tall first storey and a short second storey. The eaves at both these levels are held by uniquely designed serpentine brackets. The inside of the structure comprises of just one storey and has a single room that is square in shape. The monument originally had 5 domes, but most of them are ruined now. This structure is a tomb built in the 15th century by the then Hakim who governed Chanderi and constructed in memory of his daughter Mehrunissa who was in love with the chief of Hakim’s army. But due to Hakim’s disapproval, the young couple died at the spot where the memorial stands today. The Hakim buried his daughter there and built the structure as her memorial.
Battisi Bavdi: The most famous and the largest step-well in Chanderi, Battisi Bavdi is believed to always have water as long as water exists in the oceans. The amazing feature of this wonderful well is that the water remains at the same level inside the well all year through. The step well is square in shape with a dimension of 60 ft by 60 ft and has a depth of around four storeys. The stairs start from the main entrance and lead to the base of the well. The end of the main steps at each storey leads to beautiful platforms or ghats that surround the well on all sides. There are 32 flight of steps in the well, which gives it its name. Battisi Bavdi was built by Sher Khan in 1485 during the rule of Sultan Ghiyasuddin Shah Khilji.
Old Chanderi: Situated at a distance of 19 km from Chanderi city and lying on the bank of river Urvashi, Old Chanderi is also known as Buddhi Chanderi. It has a lot of historical and Vedic significance attached to it and finds a position in the epics and pages of history. The village of Old Chanderi is famous as an important centre of Jain culture, mainly the Parwar Jain community. It has several Jain temples belonging to the 9th and 10th century and is considered as a pilgrimage centre by the Jain people. The architecture of the sculptures and structures present in Old Chanderi reveal a rich style of construction that is impressive to watch.
Let’s continue by moving on to Shivpuri, located about 140 km north of Chanderi and on the way to Gwalior.
Situated at an altitude of 1,515 feet above sea level, Shivpuri is a tourist destination in the monsoon season as it has a number of waterfalls as well as many lakes and the city is known for its greenery, forests and also as the former summer capital of the ruling Scindia family of Gwalior. A leader and general of the Indian Rebellion of 1857, Tatya Tope was hanged in Shivpuri in 1859.
The first historical mention of Sipri, which is the od name of Shivpuri was of Emperor Akbar hunting elephants there in 1564. In the 16th Century, Shivpuri, like all of Gwalior, was part the Maratha Empire. The empire weakened at the end of the century, and during the Gardi-ka-wakt, or ‘period of unrest’, the Rajputs of Narwar secured the town and district. The Scindias, under Daulat Scindia, captured the town and district from the ruler of Narwar in 1804, and made the town their summer capital. The place enjoys pleasant weather for the better part of a year, but the best time to visit is between October and March.
Madhav Vilas Palace: Locally known as the “Palace”, the Madhav Vilas Palace has beautiful turrets, numerous terraces and immaculate marble floors make the palace truly resplendent even by today’s standards. The exterior of the palace has a dusty-rose colour that sets the palace apart from its surrounding. During it’s heyday, the palace was the summer palace of the Scindias. The palace is today the training centre for the Intelligence Bureau of the Government of India.
Narwar Fort: Located just east of the river Kali Sindh, the Narwar Fort is a remnant of the resplendent past of India. 43 km northwest of Shivpuri, the fort is of historical significance and was known as Nalapura till the 12th century. Raja Nala, after whom the town and fort was named, finds mention in the Epic Mahabharata in relation to Damayanti and their love saga. The Narwar Fort sits atop a hill at an elevation of 500 ft above sea level and spread over 8 sq km. The Rajput influence in the architecture of the fort is evident in the flat ceilings and the fluted columns.
Mahua Shiva Temple: A small nondescript village in Shivpuri where the temple is based, Mahua has treasures from the 6th and 7th century hidden in plain sight. Mahua village is a part of the ancient area known as Madhumati in the Ranod inscription and inscriptions suggest the importance of the area amidst Shaiva Saiddhantika believers. There are a few temples that have survived the sands of time to stand resplendently today as a stark reminder of a long lost history. The Shiva Mandapika is one of the few monuments that can be assigned to the latter half of the 7th century. The temple as it stands today may point to an incomplete construction or an incomplete restoration. The Shiva temple in Mahua is an exemplary temple from the 7th century dedicated to Lord Shiva. The temple reflects the Nagara style of architecture and has carvings depicting the river Goddesses Ganga and Yamuna on either side of the doorway that leads to the sanctum sanctorum.
A tourist village with a natural spring, Bhadaiya Kund is a scenic area within the municipality of Shivpuri. spring is not very far from Shivpuri. The natural spring at Bhadaiya Kund is known to have a high mineral content and is believed to have therapeutic properties. The monsoon season is the best time to visit, when the waters are especially full and a soothing sight to city weary eyes.
Madhav National Park: Famous as hunting grounds all the way from Akbar’s reign to the British colonial rule, the Madhav National Park is spread over a total area of 354 sq km with rolling hills and flat grasslands around the lake. Akbar is rumored to have captured an entire herd of elephants for his stables from the forest. The bio-diversity here is second to none, offering glimpses into wildlife relatively unadulterated by human interference. George Castle is a beautiful retreat built by the Scindia King Jivaji Rao Scindia within the national park. The colonial architecture makes for a charming structure from the pre-independence period. The sunset views from the castle are rumoured to be stunning and is not to be missed. The Sakhya Sagar boat club gives adventurous tourists a chance to get up close to the crocodiles living in the lake.
Karera Bird Sanctuary: Considered to be the holy grail for avid bird watchers and avian photo enthusiasts, the Karera Bird Sanctuary is a protected park with the wildlife within the park largely untouched allowing them to flourish. A visit to the sanctuary is not only an opportunity to witness birds but also numerous wild animals in their natural habitat. The sanctuary is home to many endangered species of birds and also to migratory birds. The Indian bustard is a celebrity resident of the bird sanctuary. A rapidly endangered species, the Karera Bird Sanctuary is one of the few places where birds live in their natural habitat. With over 245 recorded species of birds living in the sanctuary, it is no surprise that bird watchers come in from across the world to witness the unique avian world. The best time to visit the sanctuary when the avian tourists are in residence is between November and March.
About 110 km north of Shivpuri lies the town of Orchha, which is our next destination
A historical town located on the banks of river Betwa, Orchha is known for its grand palaces, and intricately carved temples. Famously known as the city of palaces, it is world-renowned for the classic mural paintings, frescos and Chhatris or cenotaphs that were constructed to commemorate the Bundela rulers. Orchha’s old-world charm casts a spell on tourists from all around the world. Founded in 1501 by Bundela Rajput Chief, Orchha literally means ‘a hidden place’. It was the capital of one of the most powerful dynasties to ever rule in India- the Bundelas. The major attractions in Orchha include Ram Raja Temple, the only place where Lord Ram is worshipped both as a God and a king, the Laxmi Narayan Temple which is known for its unique architecture which is a melange of a fort and a temple, and the Jahangir Mahal, built in hour of the Mughal emperor Jahangir. The medieval architecture of Orchha’s palaces and temples is a visual delight for photographers.
Our next destination is the world famous UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Khajurao group of mounuments, which lie about 175 km east of Orchha.
Located nearly 400 km east of the capital of Bhopal, the Khajuraho Group of Monuments is a group of Hindu and Jain temples in the Chhatarpur district. A UNESCO World Heritage site, the temples are famous for their nagara-style architectural symbolism and their erotic sculptures. Most Khajuraho temples were built between 950 AD and 1050 AD by the Chandela dynasty. Historical records note that the Khajuraho temple site had 85 temples by the 12th century, spread over 20 square kilometers. Of these, only about 25 temples have survived, spread over six sq kms. Of the surviving temples, the Kandariya Mahadeva Temple is decorated with a profusion of sculptures with intricate details, symbolism and expressiveness of ancient Indian art. The Khajuraho group of temples were built together but were dedicated to two religions, Hinduism and Jainism, suggesting a tradition of acceptance and respect for diverse religious views among Hindus and Jains in the region.
The Khajuraho temples were in active use through the end of the 12th century. This changed in the 13th century; after the army of Delhi Sultanate attacked and seized the Chandela kingdom. The central Indian region, where the Khajuraho temples are, was controlled by various Muslim dynasties from the 13th century through the 18th century. In this period, some temples were desecrated, followed by a long period when they were left in neglect. The remoteness and isolation of Khajuraho protected the Hindu and Jain temples from continued destruction by Muslims. Over the centuries, vegetation and forests overgrew the temples. In the 1830s, local Hindus guided a British surveyor, T.S. Burt, to the temples and they were thus rediscovered by the global audience.
The name Khajuraho, or Kharjuravahaka, is derived from ancient Sanskrit, kharjura, which means date palm and vahaka meaning “one who carries” or bearer. Local legends state that the temples had two golden date-palm trees as their gate which were missing when they were rediscovered. Hisotians also state that Kharjuravahaka also means scorpion bearer, which is another symbolic name for the deity Lord Shiva, who wears snakes and scorpion garlands in his fierce form.
An ancient local legend held that Hindu deity Shiva and other gods enjoyed visiting the dramatic hill formation in Kalinjar area and the temple complex reflects the ancient Hindu tradition of building temples where gods love to pray. The temples are clustered near water, another typical feature of Hindu temples. All temples, except one, which is the Chaturbhuja face the sunrise. The artwork symbolically highlight the four goals of life considered necessary and proper in Hinduism – dharma, kama, artha and moksha. Of the surviving temples, six are dedicated to Shiva, eight to Vishnu and his affinities, one to Ganesha, one to the Sun god and three to Jain Tirthankars. The temples have a rich display of intricately carved statues. While they are famous for their erotic sculpture, sexual themes cover less than 10% of the temple sculpture. Of all temples, the Matangeshvara temple remains an active site of worship. It is another square grid temple, with a large 8.2 feet high and 3.6 feet diameter lingam, placed on a 25 feet diameter platform. The most visited temple, the Kandariya Mahadev, has an area of about 6,500 sq ft and a shikhara or spire that rises 116 feet. The Jain temples are located on the east-southeast region of the Khajuraho monuments. The Chausath Yogini temple features 64 yogini, while Ghantai temple features bells sculptured on its pillars.
Built in the year 1130 the Dulhadev Temple enshrines a beautiful shivalingam and striking sculptures of Apsaras and other ornamented figures. The temple also has a stunning sculpture of Lord Shiva with his wife Parvati, the intricate details of the carvings adding to the charm of the overall architecture.
Built around 1025-1050 AD, the Kandariya Mahadev Temple is one of the most stunning of the Khajurao sites with its artistically engraved shrine with over 800 images of women, most of which are more than 3 feet high. The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and has a shivalingam at the centre of Garba Griha. Made of a typical sandstone structure, the artisitic representation of eroticism on the walls of this temple are bound to give a new perspective on India’s cultural heritage.
The oldest and most aesthetically pleasing temples among the Western group of Temples, the Lakshman temple is named after the ruler of that time. The trinity of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva is depicted in the horizontal beam over the entrance of the temple.
The Parsvanath Temple is the largest among the Eastern group of temples and has intricately detailed carvings on its walls. The most intriguing side of the architecture of this temple is the aesthetic blend of Hindu, muslim and Buddhist styles. The highlights of the temple are the sculptures on the northern outer walls.
Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the Vishwanath Temple is one among the western group of temples. It has a beautiful marble shivalinga as the main deity. An imposing image of Brahma is also housed in this temple. A massive sculpture of Nandi the Bull is also enshrined alongside the Shivalingam.
Dedicated to Goddess Lakshmi, the Hindu deity of wealth, the Lakshmi Temple houses some moderate shrines and is comparatively smaller than the other temples in Khajuraho.
Initially built as a Vishnu temple, the Devi Jagdamba temple has beautifully carved erotic figures. The Garba Griha houses a stunning sculpture of the Goddess of the Universe. The temple also houses a beautiful image of Goddess Parvati, with the image of Mithuna.
The Adinath Temple is a Jain temple dedicated to the Jain Tirthankars. With exquisite sculpted figures, including yakshis this is one of the most beautiful jain temples in Madhya Pradesh.
The Chaturbhuj Temple is situated in the Jatakari village of Khajuraho and is also known as Jatakari Temple. Enshrined by Lord Vishnu, the temple is free of any erotic carvings or sculptures and hence is considered a unique temple in the region. Rectangular in shape, the shrine built on a raised platform.
The Varaha Temple is built in the Western Group of Temple Complex in Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh and is enshrine by a massive idol of Varaha – the incarnation of Lord Vishnu in the form of a boar. Made in sandstone, the sculpture has numerous carvings all over its body and depict Goddess Saraswati at one certain place on the body.
Built among the Western Group of Temple Complex, the Matangeshwar Temple is a rather plainly designed temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. Made of sandstone, the temple houses a large shivalinga which has Nagari and Persian inscriptions carved on it and a popular site among Shiva devotees.
The Vamana Temple is dedicated to Vamana, the fifth incarnation of Lord Vishnu. The exterior walls of the shrine have erotic carvings of nymphs and celestial bodies and different women in several different postures.
The Chitragupta Temple’s main deity is the Sun God, Surya and dates back to the 11th century. The presiding deity is shown as riding a chariot with seven horses. The exterior walls of the shrine have carvings of several gods and erotic couples.
The Shantinatha Temple is a Jain temple presided by the Lord Shantinatha; however, it has idols of other Jain tirthankaras as well, including a colossal statue of Adinatha. The temple has been renovated but still bears inscriptions from the bygone era.
The oldest temple in the complex, the Chausath Yogini Temple is a late 9th century Devi temple which though now is in ruins, but the shrine cells and other remnants remain at the site. There are no sculptures found here. A monument of national importance, remnants of this temple have been found in other places around the region. The Khajuraho museum hosts three ancient statues of goddesses Brahmani, Maheshvari, and Hingalaja that were found in this temple. It is believed that this temple was the home-ground for a cult of Yoginis.
State Museum of Tribal and Folk Art is housed within the Chandela Cultural Complex and is a well maintained tiny repository of old scriptures of tribal art and culture in the form of masks, terracotta sculptures, folk- paintings, bamboo articles and other collectibles. The museum also has a beautiful garden surrounding it. The museum is closed on Mondays and open from 12 noon to 8 pm on other days. Entry fee are INR 10 for Indians and INR 250 for foreigners.
The Archaeological Museum is located near the Western Group of Temples and was originally known as the Jardine Museum. Housing over 2000 items, the museum has relics from the 10th and 12th century temples of Hinduism and Jainism. The museum is closed on Fridays and open from 8 am to 5 pm on other days. Entry fee are INR 10 for Indians and INR 250 for foreigners.
Also known as Maharaja Chhatrasal Museum, the Dhubela Museum is located in Dhubela, 62 kms from Khajuraho. Boasting of a serene setting on the banks of Dhubela lake and housed in the premises of Maharaja Chhatrasal Palace, the museum displays an extensive collection of sculptures, arms, armoury, miniature paintings etc., spread over 8 galleries. The museum is closed on Mondays and open from 10 am to 5 pm on other days. Entry fee are INR 10 for Indians and INR 100 for foreigners. Cameras taken inside will need a entry fee of INR 50. Located in the Jain Temples Complex, Jain Museum is a circular building housing huge statues and sculptures of Jain tirthankaras and yakshis. The entrance gate is flanked by the mythical creatures – Makara Torana. Closed on Sundays, the museum is open from 8 am to 5 pm and entry fees for Indians is INR 10 and foreigners need to pay INR 250.
Our next destination lies about 310 km northwest of Khajurao which is the city of Gwalior.
The residents of Dove Pond, North Carolina, know three things: they have the finest bar-b-que this side of Atlanta, their Apple Festival is the best that ever was, and the town has phenomenal good luck whenever the Dove family has seven daughters. Fortunately, that time is now, because Dove Pond desperately needs a miracle.
The seventh daughter, Sarah Dove, believes in all things magical. Books have whispered their secrets to her since she was a child. Now the town librarian, she makes sure every book finds the reader who most needs it. But recently the books have been whispering something different—that change is about to come to Dove Pond. Sarah is soon convinced that the legendary Dove Pond good luck has arrived in the form of new resident, Grace Wheeler.
After the tragic death of her sister, Grace has moved to Dove Pond with her grieving young niece and ailing foster mother hoping to retrench financially and emotionally before returning to her fast-paced city life. But she soon learns that life in a not-so-sleepy town isn’t as quiet as she’d hoped. Despite her best efforts to focus on her family, she can’t avoid the townspeople, especially her next-door neighbors, the quirky and talkative Sarah Dove and cynical veteran Travis Parker. Grace’s situation grows more complicated when she assumes her duties as town clerk and discovers that Dove Pond is on the verge of financial ruin.
Already overburdened by her own cares, Grace tries to stay aloof from the town’s issues, but she’s never been good at resisting a challenge. With Sarah’s encouragement, and inspired by the wise words of a special book, Grace decides to save her new town. And in her quest, she discovers the rich comfort of being a part of a loving community, the tantalizing promise of new love, the deep strength that comes from having a true friend, and the heartfelt power of finding just the right book.
Our next Madhya Pradesh destination is the town of Maheshwar. Indian women would easily recognise the name which is eponymous with its famed Maheshwari sarees. Located about 100 kms south of Indore and on the north bank of the river Narmada, Maheshwar was the kingdom of Chaktavartin Samrat Sahastraarjun, a Heheya king and the capital of the Malwas during the Maratha Holkar reign till 6 January 1818, when the capital was shifted to Indore by Malhar Rao Holkar III. The word Maheshwar in Hindi means Great God, an epithet of Lord Shiva and many writers have identified Maheshwar to be the ancient town of Mahishmati.
Maheshwar is believed to be built on the site of the ancient city of Somvanshya Shastrarjun Kshatriya, and was the capital of king Kartavirya Arjuna or Shree Shastrarjun, who is mentioned in the Sanskrit epics Ramayana and Mahabharata. According to a popular legend, one day the King Sahasrarjun and his 500 wives went to the river for a picnic. When the wives wanted a vast play area, the King stopped the mighty river Narmada with his 1000 arms. While they were all enjoying themselves, Ravana flew by in his Pushpak Vimana. Downstream, when he saw the dry river bed, he thought it was an ideal place to pray to Lord Shiva. He made a Shivalinga out of the sand and began to pray. When Sahasrajuna’s wives were done playing and they stepped out of the river bed, he let the waters flow. The voluminous river flowed down sweeping Ravana’s Shivalinga along, messing up his prayers. Furious, Ravana tracked Sahasrajuna and challenged him. Armed to the hilt the mighty Ravana was in for a huge surprise. The mighty Sahasrarjuna with the 1000 arms pinned Ravana to the ground. Then he placed 10 lamps on his heads and one on his hand. After tying up Ravana, Sahasrarjuna dragged him home and tied him up to the cradle pole of his son. A humiliated Ravana stayed prisoner until his release was secured. Jamadagni rishi, Renuka Devi and Lord Parashurama with whom Kartavirya Arjuna’s story is closely associated also lived nearby.
In the Mahabharata, there is a narration of an unusual tradition wherein marriage as a civil institution was not universal in Mahishmati unlike in rest of Aryavarta, which is also narrated in the Telugu-language Andhra Mahabharata in ‘Sabha parva’. As per the legend, there was a Nishada king named Nila who ruled over Mahishmati. King Nila had a daughter who was exceedingly beautiful. So much so that Agni, the Lord of fire fell in love with her which was reciprocated. The princess always used to stay near the sacred fire of her father, causing it to blaze up with vigour. And king Nila’s sacred fire, even if fanned, would not blaze until agitated by the gentle breath of her lips. Agni, assuming the form of a Brahman starts courting the princess. But, one day the couple was discovered by the king, who became furious. Nila thereupon ordered the Brahman to be punished according to law. At this the illustrious deity flamed up in wrath and beholding the terrible flame, the king felt terrified and bent his head low on the ground. The king bowed down to Lord Agni and says he cannot punish a God who was responsible for the origin of Vedas, source of all knowledge and virtue. Pacified Agni then grants a boon to Nishada, and the King requests for the protection of his kingdom from any invasions. Agni swears to protect his kingdom on the condition that the king should sanctify pleasure out of pure love a legitimate action in his kingdom. Liberated from the orthodoxy of marriage as a prelude, women of Mahishmati enjoyed freedom that was then unheard of elsewhere in ancient India. Years later, after the epic Kurukshetra war the victorious Yudhishthira plans on conducting a Yagna by winning over everyone else on earth. Sahadeva, the youngest of Pandavas knowing that Lord Agni was protecting the Nishada kingdom, prays to Lord Agni successfully and moves to the Saurashtra kingdom. Even today, the Sahasrarjun temple at Maheshwar lights 11 lamps in honour of Lord Agni blessing the Kingdom. Alternatively, this tradition is attributed to Sahasrarjun queens humiliating captive ten-headed Ravana by lighting up candles on his foreheads.
In the late eighteenth century, Maheshwar served as the capital of the great Maratha queen Rajmata Ahilya Devi Holkar. She embellished the city with many buildings and public works, and it is home to her palace, as well as numerous temples, a fort, and riverfront ghats which are broad stone steps which step down to the river.
Maheshwar has been a centre of handloom weaving since the 5th century and is home of one of India’s finest handloom fabric traditions. It is noted as a centre for the colourful Maheshwari sarees which rose to popularity under the rule of Queen Devi Ahilya Bai Holkar. Ahilya Bai wanted royal gifts for the royal guest and hence weavers from Mandu and Surat were hired and the Maheswari saree and turban were woven. It is said that Ahilya Bai herself designed first saree and these sarees were worn by the female members of the royal court and gifted to royal guests. The inspiration for the saree designs can easily be seen in local architecture which are woven with distinctive designs involving stripes, checks, and floral borders.
Holkar Fort: A prime example of Maratha architecture, as its name suggests, the Holkar Fort was the palace of Rani Ahilyabai Holkar which is why it is also known as the Queen’s fort. Perched on the edge of a cliff overlooking the river Narmada, the fort is also known as Ahilya Fort and is over 250 years old and was the capital of Queen Ahilyabai Holkar between 1766 and 1795 though currently it has been converted into a hotel, managed by the son of the last Maharaja of Indore. Among the most highlights of the fort are its magnificent chhatris, protruding balconies, well-groomed gardens and the royal seat. In addition to this, there are a number of temples dedicated to Lord Shiva and his incarnations within the fort premises itself. Besides the striking Maratha architecture and the age old charm, the fort also offers magnificent views of the quaint Maheshwar town and its gorgeous ghats. There is also a weaver’s cooperative society in its premises. Visitors can also enjoy boating here at sundown.
Rajwada: Legend has it that this splendid architectural wonder was constructed under the rule of Rani Ahilyabai Holkar. Not only does the palace showcase Maratha architectural styles, but also boasts of designs inspired from Mughal and French architectural styles. One of the major attractions here is the statue of Rani Ahilyabai standing tall right at the entrance.
Ahilyeshwar Temple: Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the Ahilyeshwar Temple is also testament to the splendid architectural skills of the Maratha workmen. The temple comprises of intricate designs and artwork in honour of the deity. Apart from being the shrine of Lord Shiva, this temple also has a shrine of Lord Rama. The temples are open 7 am to 6:30 pm with aartis fixed at 8 am and 6 pm.
Rajarajeshwara Temple: Located close to the Ahilyeshwar temple, the Rajaraheshwara Temple is also another temple dedicated to Lord Shiva and boasts of a very rich and intricate architecture. The shrine is regarded as the temple of the 11 Akhand Jyoti Deepak or the eternal flame lamps. One of the major offerings at the temple is the ghee that is used to enlighten the lamps.
Jaleshwar Temple: Like the other Maheshwar temples, the Jaleshwar Temple is also dedicated to the third God in the Hindu triumvirate, Lord Shiva. He has many benevolent and fearsome forms. At the highest level Shiva is limitless, unstoppable, unchanging and invincible. To honour this, the Jaleshwar Temple was constructed.
Pandrinath Temple: Unlike other temples in Maheshwar, the Padrinath Temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu, the protector of the whole universe and not Lord Shiva. Legend has it that at the end of the Dwapara Yuga, Lord Krishna incarnated on the eighth day of the dark fortnight in the holy month of Shravana. Due to this, Lord Krishna is also called Pandrinath. This temple like the other temples of Maheshwar is also an architectural marvel. The doors of the temple best reflect this.
Mandleshwar: A town of temples situated on the bank of the Narmada River, Mandleshwar has been mentioned in the Hindu epics of Ramayana and Mahabharata as a splendid city also known as Mahishmati. It was the capital of southern Avanti during the rule of King Kartavirya Arjun. This town which is situated in quiet beauty is well-known for its temples, fort complex and bathing ghats. Located in the Khargone district of Madhya Pradesh, the sarees of this town are famous for their floral designs throughout the country. The temples and fort of Mandleshwar have a remarkable charm to it due to the grandeur of its wonderful architecture.
Mandleshwar was the name given to the city which means the home of Lord Shiva. Earlier, the city was known as Mahishmati which was later changed to Mandleshwar. Tourism and religion have a lot of importance in and around Mandleshwar due to the presence of ancient temples known as Bawangaja, Shiv Jyotirlinga Mandleshwar and Mandav. A lot of Bollywood, as well as Tamil movies including Ashoka and Tulsi too, have been shot here thereby making the city famous amongst tourists. It is an amazing place to be visited by a lot of foreign nationals as well having interest in the art and spiritual values of India. Mandleshwar is a must-visit for all the tourists out there if you are a planning a trip to Madhya Pradesh due to its history and tourist places.
From Maheshwar, let’s travel about 65 km east to another holy town, the town of Omkareshwar.
Located on the island of Mandhata, next to the banks of Narmada River, Omkareshwar is a famous pilgrimage centre that that includes one of the 12 idolised Jyotirlinga shrines of Shiva. The name Omkareshwar means ‘Lord of Omkaara’, which is one of the Dwadasa Jyotirlinga shrines or the 12 shrines dedicated to lord Shiva in the form of a Jyotirlingam. It’s a sacred island which is shaped like the Hindu symbols ‘OM’, drawing millions of travellers from all across the globe. It has two ancient shrines including Omkareshwar and Amarkareshwar. This holy place is located on the meeting point of Narmada and Kaveri River, making a must-visit pilgrimage destination for Lord Shiva devotees and leisure travellers alike. Set in the Khandwa district of Madhya Pradesh, Omkareshwar is forged by the sacred Narmada River. Built in the Nagara style, the Omkareshwar temple is featured by an eminent Shikhara.
As per the myth, when Narad, the great prophet visited to the god of Vindhya Mountains, he was quite raging after knowing that there was no dwelling for Lord Shiva and so, the god of these mountains referred himself to very strict nonindulgences. Lord Shiva was very delighted when the deity of the mountain said that he would make Omkareshwar one of his homes and that’s why the place is dedicated to Lord Shiva. Over and above, the entire area of this holy place is bordered by mountains, making an enchanting view for travellers. If you’re here you must take a Parikrama around the island as it is considered to be very religious.
Shri Omkareshwar Jyotirlinga Temple: Reckoned among the holiest shrines of India, Omkareshwar Jyotirlinga is one of the 12 treasured jyotirlingas in the country. The temple is perched on an enticing island of Mandhata which falls on the confluence point of Kaveri and Narmada rivers. Mandhata island has its shape resembling the sacred symbol of “OM” which makes this land even more divine. The temple boasts Nagara style architecture with its detailed and intricate carvings. The beautiful balconies and column carvings of varied shapes add to the visual appeal of the temple. The Jyotirlinga which is installed on the base floor of the temple remains immersed in water. You may also find 20 shrines which are devoted to several deities including Ganesh, Krishna, Narmada, and Shani. The temple remains open from 5 am to 10 pm.
Mamleshwar Temple: The actual name of the Mamleshwar Temple is the Amreshwar Temple. It is a protected monument which exhibits the extraordinary architectural style of ancient India. The Mamleshwar temple is spread over a smaller area which covers a hall and a sanctum. 22 brahmins perform the Lingarchan rituals on a daily basis in this temple since the reign of Maharani Ahilyabai. However, now the number of Brahmins have been brought down to just 5. Around 1000 Shivalingas are planted on a wooden board to perform the daily rituals. The temple walls are adorned with the Mahimna Strotam inscriptions. The temple remains open from 5:30 am to 9 pm.
Kedareshwar Temple: Built as a tribute to Lord Kedar, the Kedareshwar Temple is known for its intricate architecture. The temple is just 4 Km away from Omkareshwar Temple and is from the 11th century, cradled on the banks of the river Narmada. Kedareshwar Temple also bears an uncanny resemblance with the Kedarnath temple, which is why it is a very popular temple in Omkareshwar. The Kedareshwar temple remains open from 5 am to 9:35 pm.
Omkar Mandhata Temple: The exquisite Omkar Mandhata Temple stands on the beautiful Mandhata island and draws millions of pilgrims every year. The Omkar Mandhata Temple was constructed on the soft stone which highlights its intricate artwork. The upper side of the temple displays popular frieze figures and its shrine exhibits finely carved stones. The temple remains open from 5 am to 10 pm.
Siddhanath Temple: Located on a small plateau on Mandhata Island, the Siddhanath Temple was attacked by Mahmud of Ghazni but it still stands tall symbolising its strength. The detailed carvings on the pillars and walls of the temple represent its spiritual value, as well as, rich architecture. One can visit this temple between 6 am to 8 pm.
Gauri Somnath Temple: Holding a striking resemblance to the Khajuraho Temples in its design and artwork, the Gauri Somnath Temple comprises a huge 6-feet linga which is made up of black stone. The linga is said to possess some predictive quality which adds to the fame of this Shiva temple. One can also get to see Goddess Parvati idol and Shiva consort behind this linga. To get a glimpse of this star-shaped architectural beauty, one needs to climb around 200 stairs. The temple is open to visitors from 5 am to6 pm every day.
Peshawar Ghat: Peaks bifurcated by gorges, transparent flow of streams, and majestic mountain ranges, the Peshawar Ghat is one of those places in Omkareshwar which offer a blend of beauty and religion. This scenic spot falls which falls in the centre of the town, is the point where the Narmada and Kaveri rivers merge.
Sri Govinda Bhagavatpada Cave: It is said that this is the very cave where Adi Shankaracharya learned his lessons from Govinda Bhagavatpada Granth. Adi Shankaracharya is said to have walked thousands of miles crossing the dense forests, valleys, and majestic mountains to reach Govinda Bhagavatpada who had his cave on the banks of pristine Narmada. These caves are near where the Narmada and Kaveri rivers merge and are open between 9 am to 6 pm daily.
After Omkareshwar, let’s head about 100 km westwards to the town of Mandu.
Mandu or Mandavgad is an ancient city in the present-day Mandav area. In the 11th century, Mandu was the sub division of the Tarangagadh or Taranga kingdom and this fortress town on a rocky outcrop about 100 km southwest of Indore is celebrated for its architecture.
An inscription discovered from Talanpur, which lies around 100km from Mandu states that a merchant named Chandra Simha installed a statue in a temple of Parshvanatha located in the Mandapa Durg. While “Durg” means “Fort”, the word “Mandu” is a Prakrit corruption of “mandapa”, meaning hall or temple. The inscription is dated around 555, which indicates that Mandu was a flourishing town in 6th century. Mandu gained prominence in 10th and 11th century under the Paramaras. In 1305, the Muslim Sultan of Delhi Alauddin Khalji captured Malwa, the Paramara territory. With the help of a spy, Multani’s forces found a way to enter the fort secretly and Mahalakadeva was killed while attempting to flee, on 24 November 1305. When Timur captured Delhi in 1401, the Afghan Dilawar Khan, governor of Malwa, set up his own little kingdom and the Ghuri dynasty was established and his son, Hoshang Shah, shifted the capital from Dhar to Mandu and raised it to its greatest splendour. His grandson and third and last ruler of the Ghuri dynasty, Mohammed, ruled for just one year till his poisoning by the militaristic Mohammed Khalji who established the Khalji dynasty of Malwa and went on to rule for the next 33 years. He was succeeded by his son Ghiyas-ud-din, who had a large harem and built the Jahaz Mahal for housing the women, numbering thousands. Mughal forces led by Adham Khan entered the fort of Baz Bahadur of Malwa in 1561 and in 1526, Mahmud II the sixth Khalji ruler made no resistance against the invading Bahadur Shah of Gujarat who conquered Mandu. In 1534 Mandu came under Humayun’s rule and he ordered large scale massacre of prisoners there. Humayun lost the kingdom to Mallu Khan, an officer of the Khalji dynasty. Ten more years of feuds and invasions followed and in the end Baz Bahadur emerged on top. After Akbar added Mandu to the Mughal empire, it kept a considerable degree of independence, until it was taken by the Marathas in 1732 by Peshwa Baji Rao I. The capital of Malwa was then shifted back to Dhar by Marathas under Maharaja Pawar, re-establishing Hindu rule.
Jahaz Mahal: The splendid architecture of Jahaz Mahal was built during the reign of Mandu Sultan Ghiyas-ud-din Khilji, who is believed to have as many as 15,000 women as his consorts. To accommodate the women belonging to the royal harem, Jahaz Mahal was built in second half of the 15th century. Jahaz Mahal best captures the medieval history of Mundu. Here ‘Jahaz’ refers to a ship and ‘Mahal’ refers to a palace, which is a reflection of the edifice itself. Surrounded by pond water, it seems to be floating gently above the surface of the water. The architecture and structure of Jahaaz Mahal are both awe-inspiring and marvellous in terms of its engineering. Emulating the appearance of a mighty ship, the palace is an amalgam of Afghan, Mughal, Hindu and Mesopotamian architecture styles and was built with a meticulous precision that followed acoustic water supply patterns, subtly reflecting the pond that lies overlooking the palace. The balconies are constructed in a way that amplifies sound such that reverberates through the entire body of Jahaz Mahal. Jahaz Mahal is open from 6 am to 7 pm and Indians need to pay IN5 while foreigners need to pay INR 100 as entrance fees. To take a video camera inside, you will need to pay INR 25 per camera.
Rani Rupmati’s Pavilion: If history is to be believed, this structure stands as testimony to the legendary tragic love story of Baz Bahadur, the mid-16th century Sultan of Mandu, a great musician, and his queen, Rani Roopmati, a singer of repute. The original design, without pavilions, was built as an observation post for the royal army as a low, large hall with a pair of rooms on each side and a heavy sloping base. A symbol of their undying love, it was later transformed into the abode of Roopmati with a western side extension along the plinth. It was extended so as to enable the queen, who fervently worshipped the Narmada, to see the river and perform religious rites without stepping out of the fort. Make sure you are here during sunset to see a dazzling display of nature at her best at the pavilion’s top with lush forests, plateaus, valleys and vast stretches of far away hills stretch before you.
Baz Bahadur’s Palace: Lying on the hill-slope to the east of Rewa Kund and is set in the midst of picturesque setting, Baz Bahadur’s Palace was was designed and built in 1508 by Nasir-ud-Din, the sultan of Malwa, which then underwent repairs and renovation during the reign of Baz Bahadur. Big courtyards and high terraces are distinct aspects of the palace that is an aesthetic blend of Mughal and Rajput architectural styles. Halls and rooms with arched gates skirt the huge courtyard which is adorned by a stunning cistern with crystal clear water in the centre. The palace terrace is further adorned with a couple of chhatris or elevated domed pavilions. One of the big rooms, that even today has astounding natural acoustics, served as the music and dance hall of the palace.
Jami Masjid: The giant red-stone Jami Masjid mosque is visible even from a few kilometers away, thanks to the dominating architectural techniques used by Hoshang Shah who took inspiration from Omayyed Mosque in Damascus, Syria. Unfortunately, Hoshang Shah could not see the monument before its completion as construction took a whopping 49 years and was completed under Mohammed Khilji. Despite its simplicity, it is considered to be the finest and largest examples of Afghan architecture in India.
Hindola Mahal: A palace which means Swinging Palace, Hindola Mahal is today a T-shaped building which is being used as an audience hall or an open-air theatre. Believed to have been constructed in 1425 during the reign of Hoshang Shah, it was modified to what it is today under the reign of Ghiyasuddin Khilji in the 15th century. It perfectly portrays the Malwa-Sultanate architecture and the simplicity of its architecture is what separated it from other monuments. The Mahal was constructed from sandstone with exquisitely carved columns with the provision of hot and cold water connected with the rooms situated underground. Munj Talao which is a collection of ruined monument covers the Hindola Mahal in the north and provides a fantastic tour to people who are interested in archives.
Champa Baoli and Hammam: An extensively constructed step well inspired from the styles of the Turkish baths, this well and bath was named Champa Baoli because it is believed that the aroma of the waters resemble that of the Champa flower. The vaulted rooms known as Taikhanas were so well connected with the baoli that even during atrociously hot temperatures, these rooms were constantly kept cool.
Jain Temple: Amidst other architectural marvels inspired by Islamic methods, the Jain Temple stands totally different. It is a modern day architectural structure boasting of silver, gold and marble statues of Jain Tirthankaras.It also has a theme park-esque Jain museum which is inspired by Shatrunjaya, the hilltop temple complex at Palitana in Gujarat.
Hoshang’s Tomb: Largely regarded as the oldest marble edifice in India, this architectural wonder has been said to have influenced Shah Jahan. It is also said that Shah Jahan had sent his workmen and Ustad Hamid to inspect the structural site and draw inspiration from it to build his lasting legacy, the Taj Mahal. The crescent that is crowned on the top of the tomb is considered to have been imported from Mesopotamia or Persia.
From Mandu, let’s travel 260 km southeast to the town of Burhanpur
A historical town based on the banks of the Tapti River in Madhya Pradesh, the most interesting piece of trivia in Burhanpur would be that Mumtaz Begum, the wife of Emperor Jahangir and the reason why the Taj Mahal was built, died in Burhanpur while giving birth to her fourteenth child. The city was also known as the entry point into south India as a result of its strategically poised position. The Queen who immortalized love was buried here, waiting for the completion of her famed tomb in Agra. Burhanpur is also blessed with an amazing water supply system that was developed during the Mughal rule. Burhanpur also served as the capital of the mighty Mughal Kingdom and is a city that is famous for its fascinating heritage.
After Burhanpur, we will go to the town of Chanderi which is about 550 km north and for which w will need to go through the capital of Bhopal.
Another month has passed by and we are in the fag end of 2020! This year has been strange for everyone and I for one will be glad to see the end of this year. Maybe 2021 will bring the world a beacon of hope and joy?
Singapore has been seeing single digit COVD cases for the past few weeks with none to a couple of cases in the community and dormitories. The bulk of the cases are imported and are coming from travellers entering Singapore, either as visitors or as residents returning home. So there is some hope there.
On the other hand, Europe has been seeing a new wave and I am now worried that India will experience one soon. Last week, someone in S’ extended family had a wedding in India which was streamed live for those unable to make it. We were surprised to see that firstly people are having weddings at this time when things are so unsettled. Secondly, most people were not maintaining social distancing and not wearing masks while inside the hall. To give them credit where due, there were not too many people in the wedding hall, maybe around 50-60 maximum, and those that were there may be close family to the bride and groom. But I saw so many in the audience not wearing masks and sitting so close to each other that I was wondering if they were not worried about getting sick. There’s another wedding coming up in the new year, this time in Singapore and we can’t avoid this one because not only is it within the close family, but also because it is here and we can make it. But I am hoping that because the situation in Singapore is better and the protocols more strictly followed, not only will we mandated to wear masks, but we also will be sitting in a socially distanced manner.
Ah well, we can only hope that people get sensible soon and things can get back to normal. If not, then governments should start fining them if that’s what it will take. I read recently that in Mumbai, people who don’t wear masks will be fined Rs 200 and if they don’t have the money to pay or can’t pay, they will have to sweep the streets for a specified amount of time. I really like this idea and hope its not a flash in the pan and people realise that they can make a difference just by being safe and wearing a mask and staying socially distant when outside.
Memories and Such 