In My Hands Today…

The Rape of Nanking – Iris Chang

In December 1937, the Japanese army invaded the ancient city of Nanking, systematically raping, torturing, and murdering more than 300,000 Chinese civilians.

This book tells the story from three perspectives: of the Japanese soldiers who performed it, of the Chinese civilians who endured it, and of a group of Europeans and Americans who refused to abandon the city and were able to create a safety zone that saved many.

Travel Bucket List: India – Uttar Pradesh Part 6

Ayodhya
135 km east of Lucknow lies our next destination, the holy town of Ayodhya, the birthplace of Lord Rama. The city is identified by some with the legendary city of Ayodhya, and the birthplace of Lord Rama and the setting of the epic Ramayana. Modern scholars variously believe that the present-day Ayodhya is same as the legendary Ayodhya, or that the legendary city is a mythical place that came to be identified with the present-day Ayodhya only during the Gupta period around the 4th and 5th centuries. The present-day city is identified as the location of Saketa, an important city of the Kosala mahajanapada in the first millennium BC, and later served as its capital. Early Buddhist and Jain canonical texts mention that the religious leaders Gautama Buddha and Mahavira visited and lived in the city. Jain texts also describe it as the birthplace of five tirthankaras namely, Rishabhanatha, Ajitanatha, Abhinandananatha, Sumatinath and Anantnath, and associate it with the legendary chakravartins. From the Gupta period onwards, several sources mention Ayodhya and Saketa as the name of the same city.

Because it is believed as the birthplace of Lord Rama, Ayodhya has been regarded as one of the seven most important pilgrimage sites or Saptapuri for Hindus. It is believed that the birth spot of Rama was marked by a temple, which is said to have been demolished by the orders of the Mughal emperor Babur and a disputed mosque erected in its place. In 1992, it led to the demolition of the Babri mosque by Hindu mobs with the aim to replace it with a temple of Lord Rama. Ayodhya is a derivation of the Sanskrit verb yudh, which means to fight or to wage a war with yodhya meaning to be fought. The initial A is the negative prefix and so Ayodhya therefore means not to be fought or, more idiomatically in English, Invincible. In the Atharvaveda, it is used to mean the unconquerable city of gods.

Saketa is the older name for the city, attested in Sanskrit, Jain, Sanskrit, Buddhist, Greek and Chinese sources and the word is derived from the Sanskrit words Saha meaning with and Aketen which means houses or buildings. The older name in English was Oudh or Oude, and the princely state it was the capital of until 1856 is still known as Oudh State. Ayodhya was stated to be the capital of the ancient Kosala kingdom in the Ramayana and was also referred to as Kosala.

According to one theory, the legendary Ayodhya is the same as the historical city of Saketa and the present-day Ayodhya. According to another theory, the legendary Ayodhya is a mythical city, and the name Ayodhya came to be used for the Saketa which is present-day Ayodhya only around the fourth century, when a Gupta emperor, probably Skandagupta moved his capital to Saketa, and renamed it to Ayodhya after the legendary city. Alternative, but less likely, theories state that Saketa and Ayodhya were two adjoining cities, or that Ayodhya was a locality within the Saketa city.

In 2003, the Archaeological Survey of India or ASI carried out an excavation at the mosque site to determine if it was built over the ruins of a temple. The excavation uncovered pillar bases indicating a temple had been in existence under the mosque. Besides Hindus, the Buddhist and Jain representatives claimed that their temples existed at the excavated site.

Some South Koreans have identified the Ayuta mentioned in their ancient Samgungnyusa legend with Ayodhya. According to this legend, the ancient Korean princess Heo Hwang-ok came from Ayuta. In the 2000s, the local government of Ayodhya and South Korea acknowledged the connection and held a ceremony to raise a statue of the princess. The cities of Ayutthaya in Thailand, and Yogyakarta in Indonesia, are named after Ayodhya.

Translating to Ram’s Birthplace, the Ram Janmabhoomi is believed to have been the birthplace of Lord Ram. According to the Ramayana, Lord Ram, Lord Vishnu’s seventh manifestation, is said to have grown up along Ayodhya’s river Sarayu. After being a conflicted site for decades, the land was handed over to a trust by the Supreme Court of India to build the Ram Temple. The temple site is where the Babri Masjid once stood. It is believed that the Mughals demolished a Hindu shrine to build the mosque at the birthplace of Lord Ram. In 1992, a group of Hindu nationalists tore down the Babri Masjid which led to a series of violent riots across India. In October 2019, a bench of five judges of the Supreme Court ordered the land to be handed over to a trust to build the Ram Temple with an alternate piece of land of 5 acres given to the Sunni Waqf Board to build a mosque.

Hanuman Garhi is a 10th century temple dedicated to Lord Hanuman and is one of the most important temples in Ayodhya as it is customary to visit the Hanuman Garhi temple before visiting the Ram Temple. It is believed that Lord Hanuman lived at the site of the temple guarding Ayodhya. To reach the hilltop temple one needs to climb a staircase with 76 steps which is located at the entrance. Housed within is a 6-inch-tall idol of Hanuman. The main temple has an interior cave adorned with numerous statues of Lord Hanuman along with his mother, Maa Anjani. The festivals of Rama Navami and Hanuman Jayanti, which celebrate the birth of Lord Ram and Lord Hanuman respectively, attract thousands of devotees to the Hanuman Garhi. The temple is open between 5 am and 11 pm daily.

Established towards the northeastern corner of the Ram Janmabhoomi, Kanak Bhawan was constructed in 1891. Also known as Sone-ka-Ghar, the temple is dedicated to Lord Rama and his wife, Goddess Sita. Kanak Bhawan, which means a Golden Palace, has three golden-crowned idols of the Lord Rama and Goddess Sita under a silver roof in the sanctum sanctorum or the garbha griha. It is believed that this shrine was gifted to Rama and Sita by the former’s stepmother, Kaikeyi. Renovated during King Vikramaditya’s reign, the present site was further entirely revamped by Vrish Bhanu Kunwari. This Bundela-styled temple is currently managed by the Sri Vrishbhan Dharma Setu Trust and is open between 8 and 11 am and then again between 4:30 and 9 pm. Aarti timings in summer are between 8 and 9 am and between 7 and 8 pm and during winters from 8:30 to 9:30 am and 6:30 to 7:30 pm.

Established in the name of the local deity, Lord Nageshwarnath, the Nageshwarnath Temple is located adjacent to Theri Bazaar and is believed to have been set up by Kush or Kusha, Lord Rama’s son. In good condition since 750 AD, the current temple is said to have been reconstructed in 1750 by Safar Jung’s minister, Naval Rai. Legend has it that Kush came across a Shiva devotee called Naga Kanya when he happened to lose his arm ring in the local bath. Upon learning that the latter had fallen in love with him, he raised this Shiva temple for the Naga Kanya. The Nageshwarnath Temple attracts numerous devotees during Mahashivaratri and Trayodashi, also known as Pradosh Vrat. The Shiva Barat or the procession of Lord Shiva is a significant attraction here. The temple is open from 5 am to 8 pm and aartis take place between 5 and 6 am and 8 and 8:30 am.

Source

Situated along the Naya Ghat, the Treta Ke Thakur Temple houses numerous idols including that of Lord Ram, Goddess Sita, Lord Lakshman, Lord Hanuman, Bharat and Sugreev. These statues are said to have been sculpted out of a single black sandstone. The temple is believed to have been constructed 300 years ago by a local king named Kullu and is said is to stand where the famous Ashwamedha Yagna performed by Lord Rama took place. The temple was renovated in the 1700s by the Maratha queen, Ahilyabai Holkar. It is open to the public only once a year on a day marked as Prabodhini Ekadashi which is eleventh lunar day in the bright fornight of the month of Karthika and corresponds to roughly October/November. On this day colourful celebrations with traditional customs are carried out. On this day the temple is open for 24 hours.

Situated on the north-western side of the Ram Janmanhoomi, Sita ki Rasoi is believed to be an ancient kitchen used by Goddess Sita. Built quite close to the Ram Janmabhoomi, this site is now a temple housing some utensils. One among the two kitchens in Goddess Sita’s name, this is a basement kitchen. The other end of the temple has richly clothed and embellished idols of Lord Ram, Lord Lakshman, Bharat and Shatrughana and their wives Goddess Sita, Urmila, Mandavi and Srutakirti. Worshipped as the Goddess of Food, Sita is also known as Goddess Annapurna and so the temple follows this tradition by offering free food to all those who visit. Visitors can also donate any amount of money for charity here. The temple is open between 8 am and 6 pm daily.

Located on the banks of river Sarayu in Ayodhya’s twin city Faizabad, Raja Mandir has been associated with numerous mythological stories time and again. The temple houses stunningly carved idols of many Hindu Gods and Goddess, which are clad in silken fabrics and rich jewellery. Once known for its association with Lord Sri Rama, the shrine is now a regular temple. From the temple, the reflection of the shrine on the water is beautiful. The temple is open between sunrise and sunset.

Located in the heart of the town, Dashrath Bhavan is the residence of King Dashrath, father to Lord Sri Ram. Popularly known as Bada Asthan or Badi Jagah, Dashrath Mahal houses magnificent shrines of King Ram. Believed to have housed Lord Rama’s childhood and King Dasharath’s capital, this palace hosts a decorated and ornamented entrance with beautiful paintings. Within the palace, there are saffron-clad monks chanting mantras, singing and dancing. Although relatively smaller than what one would imagine a palace to be, Dashrath Bhavan is lit up during festivities like the Ram Vivah, Karthik Mela, Diwali, Ram Navami and Shravan Mela. It is open from 8 am to 12 noon and then between 4 to 10 pm.

Mani Parbat is a tiny hillock situated about 65 feet above sea level. Besides being a great viewpoint, the hillock also houses a stupa built by Emperor Ashoka and a Buddhist monastery. Housing a line of religious shrines, Mani Parbat is located quite close to another hilly mound called the Sugriv Parbat. There is also an Islamic mausoleum at the foothills of the hillock. Legend says that Mani Parbat is said to have fallen into Ayodhya when Lord Hanuman pulled out a mountain while searching for the herb Sanjeevani which was used to treat Lakshman’s fatal wound during the Lanka war. It is also said that this was where from which Lord Rama gave his grand speech of Dharma. Mani Parbat is open from sunrise to sunset.

Also known as Valmiki Bhawan or Maniramdas Chawni, Choti Chawni is a magnificent structure completely crafted out of white marble. There are 34 heritage caves here, with 12 to the south which are Buddhist, 17 in the centre are Hindu and 5 in the north are Jain along with the Kailasha Temple in the caves.

Situated on the banks of river Sarayu, also known as Ghaggar, Guptar Ghat is located in Faizabad near Ayodhya. With a flight of steps leading to the river, this ghat was once the neighbour of the colonial Company Gardens, which is now known as the Gupta Ghat Van. This place is said to be where Lord Rama meditated and undertook the Jal Samadhi in the river, after he attained Baikuntha and descended into heaven as an avatar of Lord Vishnu. Among the several temples situated here, the Sita-Ram temple, the Chakrahari shrine and the Narsingh temple are popular. Revamped in the 1800s and constantly improvised by the government, the Guptar Ghat is currently equipped with modern amenities as well.

Located in Faizabad, the Bahu Begum ka Makbara is popularly known as the Taj Mahal of the East. The mausoleum dedicated to the Queen Bride Begum Unmatuzzohra Bano, wife and queen of Nawab Shuja- ud- Daula and is the tallest monument in Faizabad and is famous for its non-Mughal architectural style. An example of Awadhi architecture, the Bahu Begum ka Makbara has three domes, intricately designed interiors and marvellously done walls and ceilings. Built in 1816, in the memory of the queen where she was buried after death, today the premises are a protected site under the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). The gardens in front of the complex have been beautifully done, and has a magnificent bird’s eye view of the entire city from the top of the tomb. It is open from 7 am 4 pm.

Also known as the Garden of Roses, the Gulab Bari is the tomb of the third Nawab of Awadh, Nawab Shuja-ud-Daula and his parents. The 18th century structure is constructed in the Nawab style architecture alongside a vast array of rose species in addition to fountains and lush greenery. Listed under the Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Sites and Remains Act, Gulab Bari is currently preserved as a part of national heritage. The tomb of his wife, Bahu Begum and her house, popularly known as Moti Mahal are some of the remnants. Erected right at the centre of the Charbagh Garden, this two-storied tombstone is bracketed by endless lines of colourful roses. The garden is open between 4 am and 7 pm.

Popularly known as the Pearl Palace, Moti Mahal is located a few km from Ayodhya in Faizabad. Built in 1743, the palace was a residence of the Queen Begum Unmatuzzohra Banu, wife of the then Nawab Shuja-ud- Daulah and is a fine example of Mughal architecture. It is closed on Saturdays and on Mondays to Fridays, it is open between 12 noon to 11 pm and from 5:30 pm to 11 pm on Sundays.

Established in the memory of the 16th century saint-poet Goswami Tulsidas, the Tulsi Smarak Bhawan is believed to have been where Tulsidas composed the Ramcharita. Located on the eastern end of the National Highway at Rajgang near Ayodhya, the Smarak was built in 1969. In addition to the massive library, a storehouse of rich literature, the Smarak also houses a research centre called the Ayodhya Research Sansthan and exhibits Ramayana art and craft and has a daily recitation of the Ramkatha. In 1988, the Ram Katha Sanghralaya was added here which is a museum and a repository of facts, data and antiques related to the life and times of Lord Sri Ram. Besides the regular prayers, devotional songs and sermons, Tulsi Jayanti is celebrated with much pomp and show on every 7th of the Shravan month. The museum is open from 10 am to 9 pm with a Ramleela performance between 6 to 9 pm. The library is open between 10:30 am and 4:30 pm with the office open between 10 am and 5 pm. It is closed on Mondays and the second Sunday of every month and has no entrance fee.

Sravasti
About 100 km north of Ayodhya lies Shravasti, a city of ancient India and one of the six largest cities in India during Gautama Buddha’s lifetime. Located near the west Rapti river and closely associated with the life of Gautama Buddha passed the greater part of his monastic life here and is believed to have spent 24 Chaturmases or 24 monsoon seasons. There are age-old stupas, majestic viharas and several temples near the village of Sahet-Mahet which establish Buddha’s association with Shravasti. It is said that the Vedic period king, Shravasta, founded this town. Shravasti was the capital of the Kosala Kingdom during the 6th century BC to the 6th century AD. This prosperous trading centre was well known for its religious associations. The Sobhanath temple is believed to be the birthplace of the Tirthankara Sambhavanath in Jainism, making Shravasti an important center for Jains as well. According to Nagarjuna, the city had a population of 900,000 in the 5th century BC and it even overshadowed Magadha’s capital, Rajgir. It is also mentioned that a vast fort covered this city in which there were many temples with idols of Devkulikas. Today a great rampart of earth and brick surrounds this city. During excavation in Sahet-Mahet near Shravasti, many ancient idols and inscriptions were found, now kept in museums in Mathura and Lucknow. The Jetavana monastery was a famous monastery close to Shravasti, also known as the main temple of Gautama Buddha.

According to the Mahabharata, Shravasti is named after the legendary king Shrawasta. According to Buddhist tradition, the city was called Savatthi because the sage Savattha lived there. As per the Ramayana, the king of Kosala, Rama, installed his son Lava at Shrawasti and Kusha at Kushavati. The ruins at Saheth and Maheth on the boundaries of the Gonda and Bahraich districts are believed to be the site of ancient Shravasti. Maheth was the city-proper while the Jetavana monastery was at Saheth. Of the ancient Shravasti, the city walls are still standing. Within these, the remains of three ancient buildings can be visited: Angulimala’s stupa, Anathapindika’s stupa, and an old temple dedicated to a Jain Tirthankara Sambhavanatha.

Outside of Shravasti is located the stupa where the Twin Miracle took place. The site of Jetavana monastery is the main pilgrim destination, with meditation and chanting mainly done at the Gandhakuti or the Buddha’s hut and the Anandabodhi tree. Buddhist monasteries from the many countries have been constructed at here including Thailand, South Korea, Sri Lanka, Myanmar, Tibet, and China. Visitors should also plan a visit to Balrampur,at a distance of 17 km from Sravasti which is famous for its shrines and contemporary architectural styles. The Suhaildev Wildlife Sanctuary is spread over an area of 452 sq km and was established in 1988 close to the India-Nepal border. The sanctuary houses the rare Grey Francolin. Another unique feature of the sanctuary is the presence of the Tharu Tribe, who with mongoloid features have been residents of this area for centuries and are wholly dependent on the forest land for their survival and livelihood.

Prayagraj
277 km south of Shravasti and 168 km south of Ayodhya lies the city of Prayagraj. Previously known as Allahabad, Prayagraj is the most populous district in the state and the 13th most populous district in India. The city is the judicial capital of the state with the Allahabad High Court being the highest judicial body in the state. Lying close to the Triveni Sangam, the three-river confluence of the Ganges, Yamuna and Sarasvati rivers, the city plays a central role in Hindu scriptures and finds its earliest reference as one of the world’s oldest known cities in Hindu texts and has been venerated as the holy city of Prayaga in the ancient Vedas.

Prayagraj was also known as Kosambi in the late Vedic period, named by the Kuru rulers of Hastinapur, who developed it as their capital and was one of the greatest cities in India from the late Vedic period until the end of the Maurya Empire, with occupation continuing until the Gupta Empire. Since then, the city has been a political, cultural and administrative centre of the Doab region and was the provincial capital of the Mughal Empire in the early 17th century under the reign of Emperor Jahangir. In 1833 it became the seat of the Ceded and Conquered Provinces region before its capital was moved to Agra in 1835 and became the capital of the North-Western Provinces in 1858 and was even the capital of India for a day. The city was the capital of the United Provinces from 1902 to 1920 and remained at the forefront of national importance during the struggle for Indian independence.

The location at the confluence of Ganges and Yamuna rivers has been known in ancient times as Prayaga, which means a place of a sacrifice in Sanskrit as it was believed that Lord Brahma performed the very first sacrifice or yagna here. The word prayaga has traditionally used to mean a confluence of rivers and here it means the physical meeting point of the rivers Ganges and Yamuna while an ancient tradition has it that a third river, the invisible Sarasvati, also meets there with the two. Today, Triveni Sangam, or simply Sangam is a more frequently used name for the confluence. The city plays host to the one of the largest Hindu gathering on the banks of the Sangam, the Maha Kumbh Mela, which takes place once every 12 years to celebrate a revolution of the planet Jupiter or Brihaspati.

It is said that the Mughal emperor Akbar visited the region in 1575 and was so impressed by the strategic location of the site that he ordered a fort be constructed. The fort was constructed by 1584 and called Ilahabas or the Abode of God, which later changed to Allahabad under Emperor Shah Jahan. Speculations regarding its name however, exist with some believing that it was named by Emperor Jahangir after he failed to destroy the Akshayavat tree. After being called Allahabad for centuries, it was finally renamed Prayagraj in October 2018.

One of the holiest places in north India, the Triveni Sangam is located about 7 km Prayagraj and is the meeting point of three rivers, the Ganga, Yamuna, and the mythical underground river Saraswati, supposed to have dried up more than 4,000 years ago. It is also where the Kumbh Mela is held once every 12 years. According to Hindu mythology, taking a bath in the Triveni Sangam is supposed to remove all sins and free the person from the cycle of rebirth. The brownish Ganga meeting the slightly greenish Yamuna and a boat ride at this point will show the differences in the colours of the rivers. There are makeshift wooden banks which can be used for bathing. Triveni Sangam is mentioned in the sacred texts multiple times and it is said that during the battle between the Gods and the demons, drops of nectar, which can turn one immortal, fell here which makes Prayagraj Tirthraja or The King of Holy Places, which is why the Kumbh Mela is organised here. According to other legends, the Prakrista Yajna was also performed by Lord Brahma here and that Lord Rama visited the city when he was in exile. The confluence offers breath-taking views not only of the merging waters but also of Allahabad Fort constructed by Emperor Akbar, the New Yamuna Bridge and white birds floating on the water.

Colloquially known as the Bade Hanuman Mandir, the Lete Hue Hanuman Temple, the Hanuman Temple just outside Allahabad Fort and near the Triveni Sangam. It is constructed underground, with Lord Hanuman in a leaning posture which is 20-feet long and 8-feet wide, a one-of-a-kind temple. A popular temple in the city, the temple is especially busy on Tuesdays and Saturdays. One part of the temple is always submerged, with rising water levels coming only up to Hanuman’s feet. The temple would typically require a 10-stair pathway to reach the idol beneath ground level. The temple is open between 5 am and 2 pm and then between 5 to 8 pm.

Source

Located at Alopibagh, near the Triveni Sangam, the Alopi Devi Mandir is an unconventional temple which does not have any presiding deity but a wooden chariot called a dolie which is worshipped by the devotees of Lord Shiva. Housing the last of Goddess Sati’s body parts, the Alopi Devi Mandir is a Shakti Peetha with Tuesdays the busiest day and Navratri celebrated with much pomp. There are two famous myths behind the existence of the temple. One says that the temple houses the last part of Goddess Sati’s body that was shattered into pieces by Vishnu’s Sudarshan Chakra. The other story is that of a vanishing bride. It is said that some thieves and dacoits attacked a wedding procession that was passing through the woods. After robbing everyone and killing most of them, the thieves came to the bride’s chariot to take her away, only to see that she was missing which is unsolved till today. The place was thus called the Virgin Goddess Who Disappeared translating to Alopi Devi. The temple is open from 6 am to 8 pm.

Situated on the banks of the river Yamuna, near the Saraswati Ghat, the Mankameshwar Temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva in the form of a shivalinga. The temple is crowded on Mondays as the Shiva Pooja is conducted on that day with the Pradusha Pooja carried out every Saturday. The temple is open from 6 am to 10 pm daily.

Located inside the Allahabad Fort complex in the Patalpuri Temple, the Akshaya Vat or Akshayvat is an ancient fig tree. After 2011, this tree can only be visited after the permission of the Commandant of Allahabad Fort’s Ordnance Depot. Only on a single day during the Kumbh Mela festival is this sacred site open to the public. The legend behind this tree is woven in Hindu mythology and it is believed that Lord Narayana submerged the entire earth for a brief moment when the sage Markandaya asked him to show his divine strength. Upon the flooding, it was only the Akshayavat Tree that stayed afloat and so it is believed to be immortal and holy. Some believe that Lord Rama, Lord Laksmana and Goddess Sita rested under this tree during their exile with another popular local story being that Emperor Akbar tried to burn down the tree during the construction of the fort, but was unsuccessful, which is why the tree is standing inside the fort. For a long time, people also used to commit suicide by jumping from this tree into the water, believing that they will attain salvation by doing this. It is said that the British hid certain parts the tree from the public, for security and so there is an underground temple found inside Allahabad Fort.

Organised every year in Prayagraj, the Magh Mela is the mini version of the famous Kumbh Mela and takes place at the confluence of the three rivers Ganga, Yamuna, and Saraswati at the Triveni Sangam. This festival is held in the Hindu month of Magh which comes in January/February and attracts a large number of tourists and pilgrims at the mela, spread over 45 days starting on Makar Sankranti. The Mela gets its name because it takes place in the Hindu month of Magh, the whole period which is called Kalpvas, and the pilgrims known as Kalpavis.

Built in the late 19th century, the All Saints Cathedral or Patthar Girja is a spectacular Anglican Christian Church and is also known as the Church of Stone. Founded in 1871 by Lady Muir Elizabeth Huntly Wemyss and was consecrated in 1887 and finished in 1891. Constructed in the Gothic style of architecture, the church has carved glass panels and marble-finished sanctuaries and is one of the significant remnants of colonial design in the country. This church also houses the iconic jaali work throughout its arched windows. The light sandalwood tinted walls of the church was built with Sandstone from Chunar. The church is open from 8:30 am to 5:30 pm

Allahabad Fort was built during the reign of the Mughal Emperor Akbar in 1583 and is located on the banks of the confluence of the Rivers Ganga and Yamuna and is the largest fort built by Akbar. However, access to the fort is generally closed to the public and tourists are allowed inside only during the Kumbh Mela, once every 12 years. The fort is managed by the Archaeological Survey of India and is well known for its Akshayavat Tree which can be seen using a small gate as the point of entry. Allahabad Fort is also home to the Patalpuri Temple, which is said to be home all the gates of hell. The best way to explore the fort from the outside on a boat ride in the river either during sunrise or sunset. The fort consists of massive walls, towers, a temple and a large palace. There are three gateways to enter and exit the fort. The interior of the palace has been decorated with Hindu and Muslim influences. The temple inside the fort premise is an underground temple that can be accessed by a small entry in the eastern wall of the fort with the Akshayavat tree near the Patalpuri Temple. There is also a 10-metre-tall Ashoka Pillar that was installed in 232 BC that has the inscription of Emperor Jahangir.

A significant remnant of the Gupta era, the Allahabad Pillar is one of the many pillars set up by the Mauryan emperor, Ashoka. This polished sandstone spire has inscriptions from the Samudragupta and Jahangir era; the 4th century BC and the 17th century respectively. The pillar was shifted from its original spot to Akbar’s Allahabad Fort and because the fort is now property of the Indian army, permission is needed to visit the pillar. Established during Emperor Ashoka’s rule during the 3rd century BC, the Allahabad Pillar is also known as an Ashoka Stambha and some historians saying that the pillar was originally located in Kaushambi, about 50 km from the present site, but some say it was never moved. Divided into three sections, the pillar has messages in stone from the Ashoka, Samudragupta and Jahangir eras with the inscriptions playing a crucial role in decoding the Brahmi Script. The last section of the pillar inscriptions are from the Mughal era and are inscribed by Mir Abdullah Mushkin Qalam.

A stunning remnant of Mughal architecture, Khusro Bagh houses three sandstone tombs of the Emperor Jehangir’s family, his wife Shah Begum, his oldest son, Khusrau Mirza and his daughter, Sultan Nithar Begum. Landscaped amid an elaborately beautiful garden of guava trees and roses, the Bagh has intricate carvings and inscriptions on each of the mausoleums. The elaborately decorated gates give way to beautifully designed balconies and the entire structure contains only two tombs and one empty mausoleum, which is that of the daughter, Nithar’s. Located next to her mother, Sultan Begum’s tomb, Nithar’s is said to be the most gorgeous of all three tombs. Sultan Begum’s tomb is roofed with a chhatri which is a prominent dome-like structure while Nithar’s mausoleum has starry painted ceilings and extensive floral and motif designs and Khuro’s tomb which was the last piece is not much of an architectural stand-out and the walled bracketing are stunning. Entry is free the garden is open from 7 am to 7 pm.

Originally known as the Alfred Park during the British colonial times, the Chandrashekhar Azad Park is better known as the Company Garden and was established in 1870 to mark the arrival of Prince Alfred. It was renamed in 1931 as Chandrashekar Azad Park after he died as a martyr here. The biggest local park, it is a 133-acred green space housing massive statues of King George V and Queen Victoria in the centre of the garden. The park also is host to the Chandrashekar Azad Memorial, the Thornhill Mayne Memorial, the Allahabad Museum, the Madan Mohan Malviya Stadium and the musical training organisation of Prayag Sangeeth Samiti. Built in 1906, the Italian limestone canopy-structure of the Victoria Memorial is also a part of the park which is a canopy used to roof a large idol of Queen Victoria.

Constructed along the banks of the river Yamuna, Minto Park is a lush green park formerly known as Madan Mohan Malviya Park. The four lion sculptures in white stone, established by the Earl of Minto in 1910 is a highlight and the park which is relatively much smaller, hosts lush greenery alongside seating facilities. It was here in 1858 that Earl Canning read out the declaration of Queen Victoria’s Proclamation which resulted in the complete transfer of control over India from The East India Company to the government of Britain. To commemorate the 50th anniversary of the event Earl of Minto installed a proclamation pillar in 1908. The marble pillar was topped with busts of Queen Victoria and Edward VII. In 1910 the park was named as Minto Park and after independence the marble busts atop the pillar were replaced by the Ashokan Lion and the renamed as Madan Mohan Malaviya Park. The park is open from 5 am to 7:30 pm.

Established in 2004, the cable-stayed New Yamuna Bridge over the river Yamuna was built to minimise traffic flow on the Old Naini Bridge. Also known as the Naini Bridge, it runs from northern to southern Allahabad. Over 1510 metres long, the bridge is supported by cables to its deck. For the best views, one must visit the New Yamuna Bridge during dusk when it is lit up and at dawn, one can get sweeping views of the Sangam.

Anand Bhawan is the former residence of the Nehru family which has now been transformed into a museum showcasing various artefacts and articles of the Independence movement. The double-storey mansion was personally designed by Motilal Nehru who designed this house after the old Nehru residence, Swaraj Bhavan was used as an office of the Indian National Congress. The house is beautifully adorned with the wooden furniture imported from China and Europe and various artefacts from all around the world. In 1970, Anand Bhavan was donated to the Indian government by Indira Gandhi, to convert it into a national museum.

Built in 1979 and situated beside Anand Bhavan, the Jawahar Planetarium has a capacity of over 80 people and organises space and celestial shows. It also holds an annual Jawaharlal Nehru Memorial Lecture on November 14th, his birth date. There are shows in both Hindi and English with engaging science models and activities for kids here.

Situated inside the Chandrashekar Azad Park, the Allahabad Museum is a national-level museum which gives an insight into the history, culture, heritage and independence movement of India. The main highlights of the museum are the rock sculptures, the miniature paintings from Rajasthan, terracotta from Kaushambi and literary and artwork from Bengal School of Art. From the Harappan civilisation to the medieval period and the carvings from the Gupta period and Khajuraho, to India’s Independence struggle, the museum is a treasure of Indian history. A new rock gallery was inaugurated which showcases pre-historic rock art as well as a gallery for the Allahabad Museum Green Project. The museum also houses a large collection of Bengal School of Art and Modern Painting of Anagarika Govind, Nicholas and Svetoslav Roerich. The museum was first set up as a public library and a small museum by Sir William Muir and the Maharaja of Vijaynagar in 1878 with the help of the donations from the Province British government. The museum is divided into sixteen galleries, each one displaying a different sect of historic and art collections. Closed on Mondays, the museum is open from 10 am to 5:30 pm on Tuesdays to Sundays. Entry fee is INR 50 for Indians and INR 500 for foreigners while a photography fee of INR 500 is levied for photography enthusiasts.

Located inside the Company Gardens, the Allahabad Public Library was formerly known as the Thornhill Mayne Memorial and is the largest and among the oldest buildings in the state, constructed in 1864. Built in the Indo-Gothic architectural style, the library is designed with typical granite and sandstone turrets and a tall spire and has enclosed green spaces alongside colourful polychromatic structures. The library served as the house of the Legislative Assembly of the United Provinces when Allahabad was the colonial capital. Today, the library has a massive collection of about 125,000 books, 40 types of magazines and 28 newspapers in English, Hindi, Urdu and Bengali as well as 21 Arabic manuscripts. The library is open from 9:30 am to 6:30 pm.

In the next part, the last part of the series, we visit the world’s oldest continously inhabited city, and some historical and religious relevant towns and cities.

2021 Week 34 Update

Today’s quote is such a positive one that I wanted to start this post with it. When it means is that when one is positive and radiates positivity, people are attracted to this positivity and want to be near you. When we think about this, with our family, friends and colleagues, are we not attracted to and want to be with those who smile and are generally sunny people? Nobody wants to be near a moody person, someone who is a grouch and so when we do that, we attract people around us. Why don’t we try this?

BB & GG had exams this week and while GG has finished hers, and this semester, BB has one more to go on Monday, after which he too will start his holidays. Next semester will be the fourth one and GG already received news that she will be on her internship next year. I am hoping she gets an internship where she will learn and grow as a person and this internship will help her in the next stage of her education.

In Singapore, this month there have been so many deaths, especially of the elderly. Almost every week, we hear of deaths of the elderly, especially those who have not yet been vaccinated or not completed the vaccination regimen. 54 deaths have been reported in total as of yesterday, with 14 deaths in this month alone. 79% of the population has been fully vaccinated and we hope that the the critical mass that is needed to open up the country will come soon. We have to live with this virus forever it seems to look like, but there is hope for us. While COVID-19 will stay with us and within us forever, when enough people have gained some immunity through either vaccination or infection, the coronavirus will transition to what epidemiologists call endemic. It won’t be eliminated, but it won’t upend our lives anymore. It may become common like the common cold and influenza, which are part of the same family of viruses and are something we have learnt to live with. We may need to take booster shots at least for some years, just like we do for the flu and when we travel to certain countries, these shots may be mandatory, like we do today, but it will become a part of our lives.

That’s all from me this week. Stay safe and if you are still not vaccinated and don’t have any impediment to get vaccinated, please do that and stay safe and keep your family and loved ones also safe.

In My Hands Today…

Why We Sleep: Unlocking the Power of Sleep and Dreams – Matthew Walker

The first sleep book by a leading scientific expert—Professor Matthew Walker, Director of UC Berkeley’s Sleep and Neuroimaging Lab—reveals his groundbreaking exploration of sleep, explaining how we can harness its transformative power to change our lives for the better.

Sleep is one of the most important but least understood aspects of our life, wellness, and longevity. Until very recently, science had no answer to the question of why we sleep, or what good it served, or why we suffer such devastating health consequences when we don’t sleep. Compared to the other basic drives in life—eating, drinking, and reproducing—the purpose of sleep remained elusive.

An explosion of scientific discoveries in the last twenty years has shed new light on this fundamental aspect of our lives. Now, preeminent neuroscientist and sleep expert Matthew Walker gives us a new understanding of the vital importance of sleep and dreaming. Within the brain, sleep enriches our ability to learn, memorize, and make logical decisions. It recalibrates our emotions, restocks our immune system, fine-tunes our metabolism, and regulates our appetite. Dreaming mollifies painful memories and creates a virtual reality space in which the brain melds past and present knowledge to inspire creativity.

Walker answers important questions about sleep: how do caffeine and alcohol affect sleep? What really happens during REM sleep? Why do our sleep patterns change across a lifetime? How do common sleep aids affect us and can they do long-term damage? Charting cutting-edge scientific breakthroughs, and synthesizing decades of research and clinical practice, Walker explains how we can harness sleep to improve learning, mood, and energy levels; regulate hormones; prevent cancer, Alzheimer’s, and diabetes; slow the effects of aging; increase longevity; enhance the education and lifespan of our children, and boost the efficiency, success, and productivity of our businesses. Clear-eyed, fascinating, and accessible, Why We Sleep is a crucial and illuminating book.

Travel Bucket List: India – Uttar Pradesh Part 5

Kanpur
About 150 km south of Naimisharanya lies the city of Kanpur, also known as the leather city of the world or the Manchester of the East. Known as Cawnpore during the British colonial rule, Kanpur, founded in 1803 was one of the most important commercial and military stations of British India. Nestled on the banks of the Ganges River, Kanpur is the ninth-largest urban economy in India and is famous for its colonial architecture, gardens, parks and fine quality leather products which are exported mainly to the west.

In 1207, Raja Kanh Deo of the Kanhpuria clan established the village of Kanhpur, which later came to be known as Kanpur. Other stories say Kanpur established by king Hindu Singh Chandel of Sachendi, who named it Kanhiyapur because it was said to be founded on the birthday of Lord Krishna. Later it was known as Kanhapur, Caunpoore and Cawnpore and many old texts suggest that it derived its name from the legendary character of Mahabharata, Karna, as it was also called Karnapur. In the 19th century, Cawnpore was an important British garrison with barracks for 7,000 soldiers. During the Indian Rebellion of 1857, 900 British men, women and children were besieged in the fortifications for 22 days by rebels under Nana Sahib Peshwa and surrendered on the agreement that they would get safe passage to the nearby Satti Chaura Ghat whereupon they would board barges and be allowed to go by river to Allahabad. Though there is no clear indication on what exactly happened at the Satti Chaura Ghat, and who fired the first shot, it is known that, soon afterwards, the departing British were shot at by the rebel sepoys and were either killed or captured. Although the East India Company later accused Nana Sahib of betrayal and murder of innocent people, no evidence has ever been found to prove that Nana Sahib had pre-planned or ordered the massacre. Some historians believe that the Satti Chaura Ghat massacre was the result of confusion, and not of any plan implemented by Nana Sahib and his associates. Many were killed and the remaining 200 British women and children were brought back to shore and sent to a building called the Bibighar or the ladies’ home, but were killed three days before the British entered the city. The dismembered bodies were thrown into a nearby deep well. When the British retook the city they committed a series of retaliations against the rebel sepoys and civilians caught in the area, including women, children and old men. The incident was known as the Cawnpore Massacre

Kanpur is a city where one finds a perfect blend of history, architecture, commerce and culture with authentic cuisines, traditional theatrical art and an amalgamation of two eras running parallelly. Having played a significant role in the first Indian war of Independence, Kanpur houses several historical tourists’ spots. Being situated on the banks of Ganges, it serves as a pilgrimage destination too. Apart from this, the IIT-Kanpur is a major educational institute of the region and one of the country’s best.

The JK Temple, also known as the Juggilal Kamplapat temple was constructed by the Singhania family in 1953 with an idol of the Hindu deity Radha Krishna is found at the centre of the temple which is surrounded in lush greenery and small lakes. The temple has beautiful stone carvings on the outside with conical roofs and the marble embellished Shri Radhakrishna Temple towards the eastern side displays the use of contrasting ancient and modern, as well as South Indian and North Indian methods of design. The temple features extensive pavilions called mandapas used for rituals, decorated high ceilings and surrounding ponds and garden areas with lush greenery. The temple consists of five major beautifully designed shrines of the deities Radha and Krishna, Lakshmi and Narayan, Ardhanarishwar, Narmadeshwar and Hanuman. The Radha and Krishna altar is the most prominent shrine with each adorned with colourful decorations and flower garlands, featuring intricate sculptures of the respective deities. The festival of Janmashtami is very popular when the temple remains open all day. The temple is open from 5 am to 12 noon and then from 4 to 10 pm and the aarti takes place at 7 pm daily.

The ISKCON temple dedicated to Lord Krishna is located about 4 km from Kanpur. The deities receive an annual Maha Abhishek, which is the traditional bathing of the holy idols, at the Royal Gold Leaf Shrine. In addition to customary rituals, there are three festivals that mark this significant custom. The avatars of Lord Krishna, Sri Sri Radha Madhav, Sri Sri Nitai Gaursundar and Sri Sri Janakai Janaki Vallabha Laxman Hanuman are decorated and preserved. The best time to visit the temple is in August and September for the Krishna Janmashtami and Radhashtami festivals respectively. The temple is open from 4:30 am to 1:30 pm and then from 4:30 to 8:30 pm.

The Jain Glass Temple or the is made out of glass and honours Lord Mahavira and the remaining 23 Jain Tirthankaras. There are various statues, attractive embellishments and delicate glass murals that highlight important details of Jain history and traditions. The temple also has a beautiful garden with prominent sculptures of Jain deities. The temple is fashioned entirely out of glass and this includes its walls, floors, pillars, panels, doors and ceilings, which showcase intricate carvings and decorative mirror-work. It also features life-size idols and paintings of Lord Mahavira and his disciples along with a seating area for prayer and reading ancient scriptures. The temple is open between 8 am and 12 noon and from 4 to 5 pm daily.

The Ram Janki Mandir is dedicated to Lord Hanuman and is a very sacred temple. The temple derives its name from Lord Ram and Goddess Janaki or Sita. The temple has a spectacular interior architecture with the walls comprising of beautiful stone carvings which wonderfully illustrates various scenes from the Ramayana. The huge idol of Hanuman is set in the middle of the temple around which devotees are allowed to chant the Hanuman Chalisa all day long. The temple is open between 6 am and 8 pm daily.

One of the oldest churches in India, the Kanpur Memorial Church is also known as the All Souls Cathedral Church and is well known for its architecture and historical importance. Established in 1857, the church is a memoir of the lost British troops of the Sepoy Mutiny. Designed by Walter Granville an architect of the East Bengal Railway, the red-bricked church is made in the Lombardic Gothic Style and has a memorial garden on its east corner. Separated from the main building, the garden has an intricately carved gothic screen. The centre of the church has a structure of an angel sculpted by Baron Carlo Marchettiwith crossed arms symbolising peace. The church is open between 9 am and 6 pm.

Source

Moti Jheel is a water reservoir which translates to Pearl Lake. The reservoir also has boating facilities and was constructed during the British colonial rule. Originally constructed as a water supply reserve by the British, it was opened as a public area and today houses a green enclosure and a kids’ park. The reservoir and garden is divided into sections including the Baal Udyan or the Children’s Park, which is a Japanese-styled garden, requiring a small entry fee. The reservoir is open from 5 am to 9 pm and does not have an entry fee.

The Nana Rao Park is a public garden centrally located and famous for its lush greenery, particularly evergreen trees and brightly coloured flower beds. The garden boasts of water-fountains and life-size statues of historical figures from India’s freedom struggle including Tatya Tope, Rani Lakshmi Bai, Lala Lajpat Rai and Ajizan Bai. The park features a historic banyan tree called the Boodha Bargad, symbolising freedom from the English colonisers. There is also a public swimming pool, a fitness facility and a plant nursery. Named after Peshwa Nana Rao, the Nana Rao Park was initially known as the Memorial Well Garden before independence and the present garden was built to replace the Memorial Well Garden with public funds. The park has an entry fee of INR 20 and is open between 5 am and 8 pm daily.

Mahatma Gandhi Park is a lush garden located in the cantonment area and is one of the oldest and parks in the city. The park is open between 9 am and 9 pm daily and has an entry fee of INR 50.

The entrance to the Gautam Buddha Park leads into a white dome supported by four pillars with an idol of Gautam Buddha built in a traditional architectural style. The park also hosts a canal that is the perfect boating spot and the best time to experience the park between October to March. The park which has an entry fee of INR 100 per person is open between 9 am and 6 pm daily.

Phool Bagh is a gorgeous urban park also known as Ganesh Shankar Vidyarthi Udyan. Originally known as the Queen’s Park, the park is not only one of the oldest gardens in Kanpur but it also historical because it used to be the venue for political rallies and public meetings. The park also has the Kanpur Museum, a library and the Cawnpore Union Club on its premises. The park also has numerous statues of prominent freedom fighters including B.R Ambedkar, Mahatma Gandhi and Ganesh Shankar Vidyarthi and has a huge hoisted Indian flag, about 150 feet tall. The KEM hall, also known as the Ganesh Shankar Vidyarthi Udyan is bracketed by Phool Bagh on all four sides. The park is open from 10 am and 10 pm and has an entrance fee of INR 10.

Also known as Allen Forest Zoo, the Kanpur Zoological Park is located approximately 7 km from the city in the man-made Allen Forest and houses a picturesque landscape, lush vegetation, a beautiful lake, and several rare species of plants and animals. The zoo is home to many wildlife species and has prominent life-size models of dinosaurs, state-of-the-art enclosures, an international standard veterinary facility and attractive garden areas. Established in in 1971, the zoo was opened for public access in 1974. The zoo includes a botanical garden with several indigenous species of plants, a beautiful lake belonging to the Allen Forest, an aviary, a night house dedicated to nocturnal animals such as prickly porcupines and toddy cats and an aquarium for which there is an additional entry charge of INR 10. There is also a popular toy train which is a favourite with the little visitors. The zoo is open between 8 am to 5:30 pm and is open on all days except Mondays. Entrance fees for Indian adults is INR 30 and children between 6 and 9 years is INR 15. For foreign adults, it is INR 150 while children between the ages of 6 and 12 pay INR 75. On weekends and public holidays, Indian adults pay INR 40 while children pay INR 20 and foreigners pay the same fees.

Also known as the Luv Kush Barrage, the Ganges Barrage Kanpur is a 621 m bridge and dam across the Ganges. Constructed amidst abundant green surroundings, the bridge built in 1995 is a must-see on the highway.

Also known as the Kanpur Sangrahalay, the Kanpur Museum, the official museum of the city is located on the Pool Bagh grounds and exhibits artefacts and documents from the colonial period to the modern-day Kanpur. Formerly the King Edward Memorial Hall in memory of King Edward VII, it was renamed as the Gandhi Bhawan in 1999 and has an in-house public library. During the colonial rule,, European merchants came up with the idea of a European-styled hall for cultural activities, which was then renamed after King Edward VII after his death in 1910. Initially built as a European style ballroom, the Kanpur Museum comprises of a large hall type structure with the highly decorated ceiling and a clock tower. After being converted to an official museum, specific architectural changes have been made, with the purposes of restoration, preservation and facilitation of the display of artefacts. The Museum is largely comprised of the collections from the British colonial period such as handwritten books of freedom fighters, their poetry, pistols, dresses, shoes etc. Apart from this, the Kanpur Museum has some important documents and literature on trade and industrialisation. One of the most iconic collections of the Kanpur Museum is an old colonial period artillery gun. The museum is closed on Mondays and on other days, it is open from 10:30 am to 4:30 pm and has an entry fee of INR 15. Please note that photography inside the museum is highly prohibited with violations leading to penalties.

The Massacre Ghat is located on the banks of the Ganga near Jajmau and covers the northern part of Kanpur. Officially named as the Nana Rao Ghat, this place is also known as the Sati Chaura Ghat as it was the very site where women used to perform the terrifying ritual of Sati. The ghat was a significant maritime route between Kanpur and Allahabad. With the Satya Ashram Mandir built here in 1966, the Ghat used to facilitate bathing and also has a sandpit nearby. Iti s a local site for wresters and is where an annual wrestling competition held between July and August. The ghat witnessed a mass scale bloodshed on June 27th, 1857. With over 300 British families brutally killed, the then Sati Chaura Ghat came to be known as the Massacre Ghat.

The leather city of Kanpur, Jajmau is a densely populated industrial suburb famous for its leather production. Also known as Jajesmow, it is regarded as one of the oldest inhabited places in the city. Located on the banks of the Ganga, Jajmau is also a popular excavation site and is home to the Siddhnath and Sri Devi temples, the primary reason of its former name, Siddhapuri. A small town of about 30 localities, this region is also mentioned in the stories of Hindu myth. The origin of the name Jajmau is hard to trace, but popular opinion is that the town had significant links to the British colonial era. The 1957-58 excavations conducted by the Archaeological Survey of India unearthed some intriguing utensils and other lifestyle bits from the 600 to 1600 AD. These ancient relics now preserved and exhibited at the Kanpur Sangrahalaya. It was found that the site once housed pre-Mauryan residential sections and pottery remains as well and that the current town of Jajmau had a fort by the banks of the Ganges. Jinnaton ki Masjid is an ancient hilltop mosque which resembles the Taj Mahal. There is a sufi tomb from the 1300s close to Tannery Town belonging to Makhdoom Shah Ala-ul-Haq, a prominent Sufi saint of the time. Other popular tourist attractions include Habiba Masjid, Jajmau Tila, Siddhant Ghat and other mosques and the Lal Bangla is a huge market with stores spread across 6 sq km. Jajmau is home to several prominent leather industries which generate an annual revenue of over 15,000 crores or or more than 2 million USD annually and about 30% of the Indian leather export.

Source

Lucknow
The capital of Uttar Pradesh, Lucknow is our next destination. About 94 km slightly northeast of Kanpur, Lucknow is the 14th most populous city and the 12th most populous urban agglomeration of India. A multicultural city that flourished as a North Indian cultural and artistic hub, and the seat of power of Nawabs in the 18th and 19th centuries, Lucknow sits on the northwestern shore of the Gomti River, Lucknow’s chief geographical feature, which meanders through the city and divides it into the Trans-Gomti and Cis-Gomti regions.

Historically, Lucknow was the capital of the Awadh region, controlled by the Delhi Sultanate and later the Mughal Empire and later transferred to the Nawabs of Awadh. In 1856, the British East India Company abolished local rule and took complete control of the city along with the rest of Awadh and, in 1857, transferred it to the British Raj.

Lucknow is the anglicised spelling of the local pronunciation Lakhnau. According to one legend, the city is named after Lakshman, the brother of Lord Rama from the Ramayana. The legend states that Lakshmana had a palace or an estate in the area, which was called Lakshmanapuri or Lakshmana’s city. The settlement came to be known as Lakhanpur or Lachhmanpur by the 11th century, and later, Lucknow. A similar theory states that the city was known as Lakshmanavati or fortunate after Lakshmana. The name changed to Lakhanavati, then Lakhnauti and finally Lakhnau. Yet another theory states that the city’s name is connected with Lakshmi, the Hindu goddess of wealth. Over time, the name changed to Laksmanauti, Laksmnaut, Lakhsnaut, Lakhsnau and, finally, Lakhnau.

Rumi Darwaza, the Mughal gateway built in the centre of the city divides Lucknow into Old Lucknow which is ancient, and more crowded, and the New Lucknow, which is urban and a planned city. Most of Old Lucknow is well-known for its bustling vibrant streets, authentic, mouth-watering kebab and biriyani outlets, lakhnavi chikan market, and the wholesale jewellery stores. New Lucknow, on the other hand, is structurally planned with wide roads, shopping malls and parks, with the most famous being the Ambedkar Park and the Gomti Riverfront Park.

One of the landmarks of the city, the Bara Imambara is known for its incredible maze, known as the Bhul Bhulaiya, located on the upper floor of the monument. It is said that there are 1024 ways to get inside the maze but only 2 to come out. The Imambra is also known as Asfi Imambara, after the name of the Nawab of Lucknow was instrumental in the construction. It is an important place of worship for muslims who come here every year to celebrate the religious festival of Muharram. Said to be the world’s largest structure that is unsupported by beams, Bara Imambara is considered a marvel of engineering and a fine specimen of Mughal architecture. The Imambara has a unique style of construction with no wood or metal used in its construction. In the centre hall is the grave of Nawab Asaf-Ud-Dowlah and his crown, said to be the largest vaulted chamber in the world. Built by the 4th nawab of Awadh, Nawab Asaf-Ud-Daula, construction for the mosque began in 1784 and took over 14 years to complete and was designed by the architect Hafiz Kifayat Ullah and Shahjahanabadi. During the 18th century, a devastating famine struck the Awadh kingdom. To provide work and food for his starving subjects, the nawab decided construct buildings which would provide them with employment, a food-for-work programme.

The architecture of the Bara Imambara is inspired from the Badshahi Mosque and is one of the last projects not incorporating the use of iron or any European elements. The central hall is said to be the largest arched hall in the world and the mosque has been constructed with no woodwork used in the entire structure, except the galleries. The blocks have been put together with the interlocking system of bricks, and the roof stands upright without any pillars to support it. The Imambara can be accessed through two large gateways, at one end of which lies the grand Asafi Mosque and on the other side is the large baori or well. Beyond the small entrance, to the left of the central hall, lies the intriguing labyrinth leading to the Bhul Bhulaiya which is the major attraction with a network of narrow passageways winding its way inside the upper floor of the monument’s structure, eventually leading to the rooftop. The views from the rooftop are is spectacular.

Visitors are expected to cover their heads and body before entering the Imambara and for those who need them, scarves are available at the main gate. Visitors also need to take off their shoes before entering the shrine and it is advised to carry a torch to explore the baori and the Bhul Bhulaiya. Locals also advise visitors to hire a guide to prevent getting lost in the maze. The Imambara is open from 6 am to 5 pm daily and entrance fees for Indians is INR 25 while foreigners need to pay INR 500, but this is inclusive of tickets to the Bara Imambara, Chota Imambara, Picture Gallery and the Shahi Hamam.

The Chhota Imambara, or the Imambara of Hussainabad, is a beautiful building in the old city west of Bara Imambara. Initially designed as a congregation hall for Shia Muslims built by Muhammad Ali Shah, the 3rd nawab of Awadh, in 1838, the Imambara was to serve as his own mausoleum as well as that of his mother, who is buried beside him. The Imambara consist of two halls and a Shehnasheen or a platform where the Zarih of Imam Husain is kept. The Zarih is the replica of that protective grill or structure which is kept on the grave of Imam Husain at Karbala, Iraq. The large green and white bordered hall of Azakhana is richly decorated with chandeliers and a good number of crystal glass lamp-stands. In fact, it was for this profuse decoration that the Imambara was referred by European visitors and writers as The Palace of Lights. A fusion of the Charbagh, Indo-Islamic and Persian architectural styles, the exterior has Quranic verses written in calligraphy on the walls and the interiors are designed with intricate details. With its baroque carvings and exquisite calligraphy, the Chota Imambara surpasses every other heritage structure in Lucknow. The interiors are decorated with delicate Arabic glass work and calligraphy, an ornately designed gilded golden dome, chandeliers specially brought from Belgium and colourful stuccos and gilt-edged mirrors. The five doorways of the Chhota Imambara emphasize the significance of the Panjetan or the holy five. It houses the tomb of Nawab Muhammad Ali Shah and other members of his family and is a smaller scale copy of the Taj Mahal. The Husainabad Mosque found inside the main monument is constructed on a raised platform with two grand minarets on the edge of the platform and decorated with floral designs and calligraphy. The watchtower, known as the Satkhanda is located just outside. Supposed to be seven storied, it only has four, since construction was abandoned when Ali Shah passed away. Non-Muslim visitors are not allowed inside the mosque located within the monument complex. The Chhota Imambara is open between 6 am and 5 pm and has an entrance fee of INR 25 for Indians and INR 300 for foreigners.

The Lucknow Residency was a residential complex which served as the headquarters for the British East India Company. But after the 1857 uprising, this became a refugee camp. The Residency is in ruins today with a British cemetery nearby that has the graves of those who died during the Lucknow siege and are protected by the Archaeological Survey of India. The Residency also hosts a light and sound show revisiting the 1857 revolt every evening. Built by Nawab Asaf-Ud-Daula in 1775, the British Residency was completed in 1800 by Nawab Saadat Ali Khan. After the revolt of 1857, the Residency was turned into the private residence of Oudh’s English commissioner. The Lucknow Residency has three levels which once housed a billiards room, offices and a library besides a basement. There is a huge cross at the entrance, in memory of Major General Sir John Inglis and his wife. Some of the highlights of the Residency include the Begum Kothi, the Mosque and the Canteen, which are all in ruins now. On one of the walls, there is a marble tablet with names of all soldiers who fought and died during the Indian revolt. The grounds of the residency also have an ancient banquet hall with some impressive carvings on its pillars and walls. Another section, known as the House of Dr Fayer used to be a hospital. The Lucknow Residency is open between 10 am and 5 pm and has an entrance fee of INR 5 per person.

From the 1800s and a remnant of colonial India, the Dilkusha Kothi was a former hunting lodge converted into a summer palace for royals. Initially, the residence of the English general, Major Gore Ouseley, this building was further revamped by Nawab Nasir-Ud-Din-Haider. The baroque-styled building was strongly impacted during the 1857 war of Indian Independence with the present structure a mere ruin with just a few towers and walls stnding today. Dilkudha Kothi is in the vicinity of a well-manicured garden, which makes it a good picnic spot. It is open between 8 am and 7 pm and has an entrance fee of INR 100 for foreigners and INR 5 for Indians.

An intricate fusion of Indian and Islamic architectural styles, the Shahi Baoli was formerly built as a reservoir and was constructed between 1784 and 1795 by Nawab Asif-Ud-Din Daula and designed by Kifayat-Ullah. Housing five storeys, the bottom three stories are regular storage spaces and the top two are occasional reserves. An ornate reservoir with some archways and exquisitely carved doorways, the Shahi Baoli is a sight to see. Open from 8 am to 8 pm, the entrance fee for Indians is INR 25 and that for foreigners, it is INR 300.

Chattar Manzil or popularly known as the Umbrella Palace was built by Nawab Ghazi Uddin Haider and later used by the ruler of Awadh and his wives. Located on the banks of the river Gomti, the building is a beautiful example of Nawabi and European architecture. Chattar Manzil has large underground rooms and a huge chhatri or umbrella adorning its dome on the octagonal towers. Formerly divided into the larger or bari umbrella dome and the smaller or chhoti one, Chattar Manzil has preserved the Bari Chattar Manzil, embellished in gold. The palace has five stories and houses two basement storeys and a terrace that initially had two telescopes during colonial times. First constructed in 1781 by Claude Martin, the French Major General of the time, it was then the location of the Central Drug Research Institute or CDRI. But after the CDRI moved out, there are talks to convert the structure into a museum. Chattar Manzil is open from 8 am to 6 pm and there are no entrance fees.

Built by Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, Safed Baradari is a white marbled palace originally constructed an Imambara or the Nawab’s Palace of Mourning. Located between the Butler Park and Gulab Vatika, Safed Baradari houses marble statues of the Anjuman founders Maharajas Man Singh and Balrampur’s Digvijay Singh. The Twelve Doored Palace has its main entrance on the eastern end which open up to octagonal pillars with stucco artworks and bright wall work. Initially called Qasr-ul-Aza, this structure later came to be used as a British petitionary court. After the siege of 1856, this was turned into a court for hearing petitions. It was then handed over to the Oudh Talaqdars in 1923 and renamed the British India Association of Oudh, which still holds this place. Today, it is used as a convention centre for weddings and other occasions.

Located in Qaiser Bagh, the Tomb of Saadat Ali Khan is a combined mausoleum of both Saadat Ali Khan and his wife Khursheed Zadi. Constructed by their son, this tomb is built in a fusion of Indian and Islamic architectural styles. With a central dome, the tomb gives way into a black and white interior housing the tombs. The tombs of Saadat Ali Khan and his other wives are found towards the southern end of the mausoleum. The mausoleum is in proximity to the famous Begum Hazrat Mahal Park and is open between 5 am and 8 pm every day.

Lucknow’s famous and iconic Rumi Darwaza is a striking gateway standing tall at sixty feet high and lies between the Bara Imambara and the Chota Imambara. The doorway is built in the ancient Awadhi style of architecture by Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula. It is also known as the Turkish Gate because it is modelled after the Sublime Porte or the Bab-i-Humayun door in Istabul, Turkey. Rumi refers to Rûm, the historical name used by the Islamic world to denote the region roughly corresponding to Anatolia, or the dominion of the former Eastern Roman Empire. Therefore, Rumi Darwaza in Hindi literally translates to Turkish Gate in English. Located in the heart of the old city, the gate is like a guardian angel that has seen the city rise and fall many times. The top of the Rumi Darwaza has a small octagonal place called a chhatri or umbrella which looks over both sides of the gate. A staircase leads up to it, which was either used as a sentry post or a place to light the gate with a big lantern at night, which is the more popular theory. The whole structure is decked with ornate patterns of flowers and leaves and other has four minarets at the four corners. It stretches out on both sides taking up almost the shape of a building rather than a gate.

Standing tall adjacent to the Rumi Darwaza, the Husainabad Clock Tower was built in 1881 and is the tallest clock tower in India. It is 67 meters high and displays a Victorian-Gothic style with a 14 feet long pendulum and a dial in the shape of a 12 petalled flower. It is said to have been established in memory of the arrival of Sir George Couper, the second Baronet. In 2010, the manually operated clock was upgraded to an electrical clock which struck for the first time in 27 years in end 2011. The four-faced clock is said to have been replicated based on the Big Ben and is surrounded by a local market. The clock tower is open between 11 am and 1 am daily.

Shaheed Smarak or the Martyrs’ Memorial is a white marbled pillar-like structure standing amidst the lush green lawns at Mukarimnagar, Qaiserbagh. Established in the memory of soldiers who lost their lives during the 1857 War of Independence, this pillar was built in the 1970s. There are also boating facilities in the nearby Gomti river and has stone stairs for seating within the premises. Open 24 hours a day, the best time however to visit is between 8 am and 4 pm.

Also known as the Dr Bhimrao Ambedkar Samajik Parivartan Prateek Sthal, the Ambedkar Memorial Park was built in the name of the architect of the constitution of India, Dr BR Ambedkar. This Park is also dedicated to many other freedom fighters including Jyotiba Phule, Birsa Munda, Kanshi Ram and Sree Narayana Guru. Founded in 1995, the park was renovated in 2002 and revamped in 20he 07 and a full-fledged public space only in 2008. The Ambedkar Park was soon renamed as Bhimrao Ambedkar Memorial in 2012. The red sandstone structure of the memorial houses the Ambedkar Stupa which is situated on a pedestal and is a massive bronze structure of Dr BR Ambedkar sitting on a chair and the base has an engraving which says “My struggle of life is my only message”. The stupa houses four opposite facing doorways with portraits of Dr Ambedkar inside. Spread across 2.5 acres, the museum has with two dome-like structures with each dome holding statues. The Pratibimb Sthal is a 107-acre expanse marking the entrance to the memorial and has sixty odd elephants parallel to each other as well as a huge central musical fountain towards the memorial’s entrance. The The gallery preserves various artefacts and documents relating to Dr Ambedkar about his life and his role in the freedom struggle. There are also several bronze-embellished wall work and other statues as well as a small souvenir shop selling books and other souvenirs. The Drashya Sthal is laid out on an 80 feet tall pyramidical structure with water flowing from its pinnacle. The park is open from 9 am to 7 pm

The Gautam Buddha Park is situated next to Hathi Park and was set up in 1980. A local favourite, the park has many swings and slides amongst lush green lawns and flowers. There is also a paddle boating available at a nominal price which is highly popular. The park is open from 7 am to 9 am and has an entrance fee of INR 5 and paddle boating costs are INR 10 with INR 25 per additional hour while the electric swing costs INR 10.

A very popular local park, Hathi Park has several swings and slides and recreational elephant structures which can be climbed upon. Open from 7 am to 8 pm daily, there is an entrance fee of INR 5 to get into the park.

Janeshwar Mishra Park is a newly constructed park, dedicated to the late Samajwadi Party politician, Janeshwar Mishra and was opened to the public in 2014. One of the biggest parks in Asia, the park has lush greenery dotted with floral gardens and also offers activities like boat rides and a children’s play area. There is an elaborate display of an MIG Aircraft and a few tanks at the park entrance as well as the Indian flag which is hoisted. The park is open from 5 am to 10 pm and has an entrance fee of INR 10.

Spread across 76 acres, the Dr Ram Manohar Lohiya Park is a popular park dedicated to the socialist leader and has four divisions of courtyards and separate entrances. Besides, it has green lawns sprinkled with seasonal flowers and shrubbery and is used for jogging and morning yoga classes. There is also a 100-meter acupressure walking and running track as well as a children’s play area. Alongside a fish and duck pond, the park also has a lake with a backdrop of Dr Lohiya’s statue. This lake also has four fountains spread across as well as an amphitheatre quite close to the clock tower. The park is open between 6 am and 10 pm and has an entrace fee of INR 5 while children below the age of 12 enter free.

Located in Qaiserbagh, the Begum Hazrat Mahal Park is a popular park which has swings and a children’s play area. The park houses a memorial structure of Begum Hazrat Mahal who played a vital role in the 1857 revolt. This marble building was initially commemorated at the Old Victoria Park of Hazratganj in 1962. The park also has a couple of fountains, a floral garden and stone walkways. The park is open from 8 am to 9 pm and has an entrance fee of INR 10.

Sikandar Bagh is an ancient styled mansion and a bracketing garden built in the 1800s and is known to be the last Mughal Garden in India. Built by Nawab Wajid Ali Khan, the last Nawab of Oudh, Sikandar Bagh became a Botanical Garden and home to the National Botanical Research Institute post-1947. The park also acted as a venue in the 1857 Battle of Independence and it was on the grounds of this garden that the ‘ugly blind hole’ was created on one of the brick walls. The collision was caused by the six open fires and 18 other guns. Housing over 2000 soldiers, Sikander Bagh was the site of the mass murder at the hands of the British Commander-in-Chief, Sir Colin Campbell. Sikandar Bagh is open from 9:30 am to 6 pm.

Source

Built by Nawab Saadat Ali Khan, the Moti Mahal Palace is popularly known as the Pearl Palace. Located on the banks of river Gomti, the palace is constructed next to Mubarak Manzil and Shah Manzil. A former residence of the Nawabs of Lucknow, Moti Mahal was initially a part of the Qaisar Bagh complex. Today, the surrounding gardens are used to hold conferences, parties and other such special occasions. Open from 11 am to 11 pm, entrance is free.

Firangi Mahal is a Mughal building built in the 11th century and between the 1550s and 1690s it was turned into an Islamic learning institution. The Alam Hafiz family is said to have been the first recorded resident of the place in 1559. It later became the residence of a French businessman, Mr Neil. The palace also played an important role during the Khilafat movement as it served as accommodation for important leaders of the movement.

Constructed between 1848-1850, under the rule of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, Kaiserbagh Palace is an excellent example of Mughal architecture located when one goes from the eastern end of the Chattar Manzil towards the Tarawali Kothi. It houses a white-marbled central Baradari and is open from 8 am to 8 pm with no entrance fee.

The Shah Najaf Imambara is a dome-shaped 19th century congregration hall housing the graves of Nawab Ghazi-uddin Haider and his three wives. With splendid Mughal architecture amid a beautiful front floral yard, the Imambara is an all-white marble structure housing a large dome. Visitors must remove footwear and cover their heads while entering the mosque. Established in honour of the Caliph, Hazrat Ali, the Shah Najaf Imambara is believed to be a mirrored construction of the Iraqi tomb of Najaf-e-Ashraf. The mosque is open from 8 am to 5 pm.

The Jama Masjid was built by Nawab Mohammad Ali Shah Bahadur in 1423 on an elevated square platform to over shadow the grand Jama Masjid in Delhi. The Hindu-Jain fusion architecture imbibed with Islamic features boasts of a fancy decor with lime plaster, adorned with stucco motifs and has high arched ceilings and sturdy pillars. An active mosque today, non-muslims are not allowed inside. It is open from 5 am and 9 pm daily and photography fees are INR 300.

Situated in the Barabanki district, about 25 kms from Lucknow, Dewa or Dewa Sharif is a small town renowned for the shrine of Haji Waris Ali Shah with a mosque and a khankah within the premises. Born in the 19th century, Haji Waris Ali Shah belonged to the family of Hussaini Syeds with Waris Ali Shah the founder of the Warsi order of Sufism who undertook the pilgrimage to Mecca several times in his lifetime and welcomed followers of all faiths and religions into his commune. After his death, a tomb was set up, visited by devotees from all over the world. The Urs festival at Dewa Sharif is a huge annual affair with celebrations over 10 days in the month of October-November when the shrine is decorated in tinsel and fairy lights. A grand procession is carried out and the entertainment includes an all-India Mushaira or poetry competition and music performances. There is also an elaborate display of fireworks. Unique to the Dewa Shareef shrine is that it celebrates the Hindu festival of Holi with great pomp and show with people playing and colouring each other. The best time to visit the shrine is on a full moon day.

The Chandrika Devi Temple is dedicated to Goddess Chandi. Adorning three heads, Chandrika Devi is a said to be a combined manifestation of the Goddesses Kali, Lakshmi and Saraswati. There is also a pond in the premises that has a huge seated statue of Lord Shiva. Said to be a 12-century shrine, the Chandrika Devi Temple is believed to have been part of the era of the Ramayana. Hindu mythology has it that Goddess Chandi once safeguarded Prince Chandraketu, the older brother of Lord Lakshmana. As he was riding alongside river Gomti with his horse, Ashhwamegh, he decided to halt for the night as it got quite dark. It was then that he prayed to Chandrika Devi to protect him through the night who delivered security through a flood of moonlight. Devotees later constructed a shrine at the same place.

The 1000-year olf Mankameshwar Mandir is situated on the banks of river Yamuna at Saraswati Ghat in Lucknow. A revered Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Shiva this temple is the first to have had a woman priest. Mondays are considered special and hence the busiest. According to myth, the site of the present Mankameshwar Mandir was a holy site visited by Lord Lakshman after leaving Goddess Sita in exile and is the same place that King Navdhanu constructed this temple many years later. The temple was completely ruined during the 1100s by conquerors from Yemen and reconstructed about five centuries ago by the Naga monks. The temple is open between 5 am and 12 noon and then again between 4 to 9 pm.

A monastery dedicated to Sri Ramakrishna Praramahamsa, the Ramakrishna Math has a shrine adjacent to the institute. Built completely of marble, the Math also holds various idols of Ramakrishna, Mother Sarada Devi and Swami Vivekananda. The first Math was established in 1925 with the present temple the new version constructed close to the older site. Established in 1987, the white structure of the new monastery is a combination of Hindu and Islamic architectural features. It also represents adapted designs from the Indian dynasties of the time. In addition to the red-cemented significant relics from Hindu mythology, the current temple of the Ramakrishna Math hosts an elegant marble-finished entryway. Numerous mythical creatures and characters in stone adorn the parallels of the entrance. The sanctum sanctorum of the temple, roofed with nine white domes is secured with an ornately carved gate. However, this part of the temple emits a Rajasthani aura of architecture alongside the typical Mughal style. The prayer hall here hones an elaborately decorated white and brown floor, while siting a splendid chandelier with over 250 lights. The math is open from 8:30 am to 12 noon and then between 4:30 to 7:30 pm.

Named after the Marine Drive in Mumbai, Lucknow’s Marine Drive is a picturesque strip of road adjacent to the River Gomti popular among the young as a hangout place. With benches to sit and relax, it is used a jogging and cycling track.

A colonial landmark the Constantia or La Martiniere School was built in 1845 and houses the tomb of Claude Martin, the French Major-General at the time. The European styled building also has a library, a chapel and a well-preserved and beautiful lobby room. Having separate schools for boys and girls, it is said that the 1857 batch is said to have played an important part in the revolt. With architectural highlights such as carved arches and decorated balconies, this heritage building continues to be one of the top educational institutes in town.

Situated on the banks of the River Gomti, the Indira Gandhi Planetarium is popularly known as the Taramandal Show. The highlights of the planetarium are the science and astronomy shows and 3D models and exhibitions. One can also see models of various Indian satellites and read about about renowned Indian scientists as well as take a virtual trip to space through the 3D space shows. Designed and modelled in the shape of Saturn with five rings around its central body, the building boasts of striking architecture signifying the solar system. A water pool surrounds the building. The planetarium is open from 11 am until 5 pm and has shows at 1 pm, 2:30 pm, 4 pm and 5 pm with an extra show at 6 pm during the summer holidays. On weekends, the first show is in English while the rest are in Hindi. Bookings for the shows can be done between 11 am and 5 pm. Entrance fees for adults is INR 25 and there is no entry fee for children below the age of three. The planetarium is closed on Mondays

Located in Qaiserbagh, the 1857 Memorial Museum is dedicated to the First War of Independence of 1857. Containing relics and antiques, the museum also has visual displays of the war. It also has many photographs, maps, manuscripts and paintings depicting the struggle. There is also an antique collection of war swords, rifles, shields, terracotta items, crockery, canons, medals and even badges from the 1800s. Constructed by the British in 1774, the Lucknow Residency was completed by Nawab Sadat Ali Khan in 1800, but was massively damaged during the 1857 war. Today, the Archaeological Survey of India manages the museum and have organised tours. The museum is open from 10 am to 5 pm and Indian visitors need to pay INR 15 while foreign visitors will pay INR 200.

The Nawab Wajid Ali Shah Zoological Garden, popularly known as the Lucknow Zoo was originally known as The Prince of Wales Zoological Gardens and is home to mammals, birds and reptiles, the most famous ones being the royal Bengal tiger, white Bengal tiger, Himalayan black bear and Asiatic lion. Established in 1921 by Nawab Nasiruddin Haider, this 71.6-acre zoo was established to celebrate the visit of the Prince of Wales to Lucknow. The zoo has a toy train which rides through the zoo. The Uttar Pradesh State Museum is an interesting attraction within the zoo displays Awadh artefacts like sculpture, bronzes, paintings, natural history & anthropological specimens, coins, textiles and decorative arts, along with excavations related to the life of Lord Buddha. There is also an Egyptian mummy and wooden sarcophagus, an inscribed wine jar bearing the name of Aurangzeb Alamgir, a jade Chamakali with the name Jahangir and the date 1036 AD, a 16th-century painting of a scene from the Kalpasutra. A replica from colonial times, a vintage train abandoned in the Laxmipur forest in 1924 is also displayed. Inaugurated in 2018, the Butterfly Park is relatively a newer addition to the zoo. With over 28 species alongside a beautiful park, this park also offers educational information about these colourful creatures. However, the butterfly park would need an extra entry fee. The Nature Interpretation Centre houses informative pieces from the animal mapping system to well-preserved ostrich, emu and macaw eggs. There are also preserved pugmarks of different rare and endangered animals including different tiger species. The Lucknow Zoo is the only one of the only two zoos in India to exhibit an orangutan, with the other being the Kanpur Zoo. Entry tickets for those above 12 are INR 60 and INR 54, if purchased online, which includes an entry ticket as well as tickets to the Aquarium House, Nocturnal House and Nature Interpretation Centre. For a package which includes a train ride and a battery operated vehicle, it is INR 100 or INR 90 if purchased online. For those between 5 and 12, the first entry fee is INR 30 or 27 if purchased online and INR 50 or INR $5 if purchased online for the second option. Entry for those below 5 is free. A video camera of INR 50 and a morning walk pass of INR 100 for a monthly or INR 500 for a yearly option is also available. The Zoo is open between 8:30 to 5:30 pm between February and April, between 8 am to 6 pm between May and July, between 8:30 to 5:30 pm in August, September and October and from 8:30 am to 5 pm between November to January. The zoo is closed on Mondays.

Also known as Shahid Chandra Shekhar Azad Bird Sanctuary, the Nawabganj Bird Sanctuary is located in Unnao near Lucknow. Surrounded by dense forests, this bird sanctuary is home to over 250 species birds and is also a great place to spot other wildlife. The sanctuary also houses a deer park and has an interpretation centre. The sanctuary can be visited around the year; however, the best time is between October to March as there are several species of birds who migrate from colder regions and settle at the bird sanctuary. There are two walking trails that take you through the sanctuary amidst the forest cover and lush greenery. There is a pond in the complex perfect for leisurely strolls or just enjoying some quiet time. The sanctuary is open between 9 am to 5 pm and has an entry fee of INR 30 for Indians and INR 350 for foreigners. There is also a camera fee of INR 500.

In the next part, we will explore some of the most ancient cities in the world as well as some of the holiest.