Older Sister. Not Necessarily Related: A Memoir – Jenny Heijun Wills
Jenny Heijun Wills was born in Korea and adopted as an infant into a white family in small-town Canada. In her late twenties, she reconnected with her first family and returned to Seoul where she spent four months getting to know other adoptees, as well as her Korean mother, father, siblings, and extended family. At the guesthouse for transnational adoptees where she lived, alliances were troubled by violence and fraught with the trauma of separation and of cultural illiteracy. Unsurprisingly, heartbreakingly, Wills found that her nascent relationships with her family were similarly fraught.
Ten years later, Wills sustains close ties with her Korean family. Her Korean parents and her younger sister attended her wedding in Montreal, and that same sister now lives in Canada. Remarkably, meeting Jenny caused her birth parents to reunite after having been estranged since her adoption. Little by little, Jenny Heijun Wills is learning and relearning her stories and those of her biological kin, piecing together a fragmented life into something resembling a whole.
Delving into gender, class, racial, and ethnic complexities, as well as into the complex relationships between Korean women—sisters, mothers and daughters, grandmothers and grandchildren, aunts and nieces—Older Sister. Not Necessarily Related. describes in visceral, lyrical prose the painful ripple effects that follow a child’s removal from a family, and the rewards that can flow from both struggle and forgiveness.
Kurnool The judicial capital of Andhra Pradesh, Kurnool is the state’s 5th largest city and is also known as the Gateway of Rayalaseema. Although the area has been inhabited for thousands of years, modern Kurnool was founded in the 16th century with the construction of the Konda Reddy Fort. Derived from the names Kandanavōlu or Kandanōlu, Kurnool used to be a crossing on the Tungabhadra River, where the bullock cart caravans are believed to have greased their wheels with kandana being a reference to grease. The Belum Caves have historical importance in the city as well as the Ketavaram rock paintings which are dated back to the Paleolithic era.
Yaganti, is famous for its temple of Sri Yagantiswamy, dedicated to Lord Shiva and is also known as the Uma Maheshwara temple. This ancient temple dates back to the 5th and 6th centuries and houses the idol of Shiva and Parvathi fused together, called Ardhanareeswara carved out of a single stone. The temple is not only of religious significance but also because it has many striking and unusual features. To begin with, Yaganti is perhaps the only temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, where he is worshipped in the form of an idol, instead of the Shiva Linga. The temple also has the Agastya Pushkarni, where water flows from the bottom of the hill, throughout the year. Worshippers take a dip in the holy water as a form of worship to the deity. There are different stories revolving around the origins of the temple. According to one story, the sage Agastya wanted to build a temple for Lord Venkateswara here but for some reason, the statue of the Lord could not be installed be here, and the sage then penanced for Lord Shiva. When Lord Shiva appeared, the sage realised that the place suited him better and then requested Lord Shiva to appear in the Ardhanareeswara form, to which he obliged, and which is present form worshipped here. According to a second story, when a devotee of Lord Shiva, known by the name of Chitteppa, was worshipping the Lord, the latter appeared to him in the form of a tiger. Chitteppa recognised that it was Lord Shiva in the tiger form, and he exclaimed Neganti Shivanu ne kanti, which means I saw Shiva. . The festival of Maha Shiv Ratri which falls around October or November each year is celebrated with great pomp and show at the temple. The numerous natural caves in the hills around the temple were home to several saints throughout the ages, prominent caves include the Agastya cave, which is believed to be the place where saint Agastya performed penance to get Lord Shiva’s blessings; the Veera Brahmam cave, the site where Potuluri Veera Brahmam, who is known as India’s Nostradamus, wrote some chapters of his prophecies in the Kala Gnanam and the Venkateswara Cave. All these caves are open for worship from dusk to dawn. A fantastic feature of the temple is its Pushkarini, a water stream with very pure water with no one being able to figure out the exact reason of how the water flows into Pushkarini in all the seasons and a bath in the holy Pushkarini before visiting Shiva is considered to be highly beneficial. Also according to legend, crows do not fly in Yaganti because when sage Agastya was meditating here, Kakasura, the king of crows had disturbed him from his meditation. The sage, in turn, cursed the crows not to enter the premises and since the crow is considered the vehicle of Lord Shani, he cannot enter the temple. Perhaps the most famous legend associated with the temple, is the growing Nandi. Not just a belief, by documented by the Archaeological Survey of India which says that it is because the rock has a growing nature associated with it.
Konda Reddy Fort, also known as the Kurnool Fort or Kondareddy Buruju, is located 2 km from Kurnool railway station. In ruins today, the structure was built by the rulers of the Vijayanagar Empire. The modest looking structure, once housed a tunnel that passed from under the Tungabhadra river and still holds a majestic watch tower, looking over to the city that grew around it.
The Adoni Fort is a 15th century monument built during the reign of the Vijayanagara dynasty and served as a military base with its walls stretching over 50 km making it the largest fort in the country. After the downfall of the Vijayanagara empire, the fort was in the possession of the Bijapur Sultanate and later, after the defeat of Tipu Sultan, came under the British rule.
The Belum Caves are black limestone caves which are the largest and longest cave system in India famed for their unique formations such as stalactite and stalagmite formations and formed over many million years. A centrally protected monument of national importance, the Belum Caves has numerous pathways with intricate patterns of water streams on limestone. One of the most striking features of the cave is the stunning rock formations called Saptasvarala Guha (the chamber of seven notes). Here, you can hear the musical sound when struck with the wood, bamboos or knuckles. Simhadwaram, which means doorway for gods is a breathtaking archway giving an illusion of a lion’s head. The Kotilingalu Chamber contains thousands of naturally made lingams. The lingams are formed of stalactites. Voodalamari is another stalactite formation resembling a banyan tree. Thousand hoods, yet another stalactite formation is shaped in the hood of thousands of cobras. Dhyan Mandir is an interesting rock limestone formation shaped as a bed with pillow, local legend suggests this place was used as the meditation centre by all saints. Today more than three and a half km of the cave has been successfully explored of which only a kilometer and half is accessible to tourists. In some places, the depth of the caves goes as deep as 46 m, this point is known as Pataalaganga. An underground stream flows all year at this point, gliding over the rocks and hiding beneath the surface again. The cave consists of various long passages, galleries, large cavities with fresh water and water tunnels and three spectacular sinkholes. A major structure of the caves is dedicated to the period when it was invaded by the Jain and Buddhist monks. Evidence of the Jain and Buddhist remains have been found in the caves. A meditation den, saint’s bed, and several relics were discovered from the cave. Few relics found inside the caves could be dated back to 4500 BC. An enormous forty feet high statue of Lord Buddha was installed outside the caves to commemorate the roles of monks in the caves. The base of the statue consists of a lotus which also has a huge room within but does not have such a good condition. The caves are open from 10 am to 5 pm with Indians paying INR 50 and foreigners INR 300 as entry fees.
A scenic village, Mahanandi is surrounded by dense forestation with the Nallamala Hills located to its west. The village has one of the nine shrines dedicated to Lord Nandi, also called Nava Nandulu and famous for a 10th century ancient temple, the Mahanandiswara Swami temple which draws pilgrims every year on the occasion of Mahashivratri.
Dedicated to Lord Narasimha Swami, the Ahobilam or the Nava Narsimha temple is the only temple where all the nine forms of the deity are worshipped. Ahobilam is believed to be the middle of Adishesha who expands all over the Nalmalla Hills. The temple was built according to the Vijayanagara style of architecture and houses idols of all the nine forms of Lord Narasimha Swami. The temples are are distributed all over the hill and have idols of the deity in their respective forms made of stone and most devotees cover all the temples in one trip to the region.
The Sai Baba Temple located on the banks of the river Tungabhadra is a beautiful star-shaped structure with a traditional Shikhara in the centre on the top. The sanctum sanctorum has an idol of Sai Baba made of pristine white marble. The complex also houses a meditation hall that can accommodate about 800 people.
The Sri Mahayogi Laxmamma Avva Temple is dedicated to Lakshmamma, also known as Avva. She was born in a poor Dalit family, had nothing to live off of and was considered insane because she was always found muttering to herself. Some believed in her powers and offered her food and clothing till she was alive. According to a legend, Avva’s limbs were mutilated but the next day she was seen doing her regular chores and after many such miracles she has been considered an avadhoot.
The Sri Ranganayaka Swamy temple is an 18th century temple built by Krishnadvaraya of the Vijayanagara dynasty who wanted to build a temple similar to the one he visited in Srirangam. He later dreamt of Lord Vishnu telling him that an eagle will direct him to the location where the temple must be built and the beautiful Vijayanagara structure is an architectural treat.
An important pilgrim centre dedicated to Goddess Saraswati, at the Kolanu Bharathi Saraswathi temple the century-old tradition of Aksharabhyasam is performed at this ancient temple. It is also considered to be the abode of Goddess Sri Bharati. The temple complex also has a Shivalinga, known as the Sapta Linga Kshetram, and a statue of Kaala Bhairav who protects the region.
A 19th century shrine dedicated to Lord Satyanarayana, the Satyanarayana Swamy temple is famous for its splendid architecture with a magnificent entrance and beautiful bas-relief and sculpture work on the gopuram.
On the banks of River Handri is a 17th century structure known as the Tomb of Abdul Wahab. A monument with elaborate workmanship, two majestic domes, verandahs, arches and more, the tomb was built after the death of Abdul Wahab Khan, the first Nawab of Kurnool. The tomb located near Osmania college and also known as Gol Gummaz as it slightly resembles Gol Gumbaz of Bijapur was recently renovated and is now in a much better condition.
The Jumma Masjid in Kurnool is a 17th century mosque built by Madu Qadiri who was a governor under Adil Shah. The splendid architecture of the mosque includes beautiful minarets, magnificent domes and spacious prayer halls making it a tourist attraction as well.
The Nallamala Forest is over a vast region of the Eastern Ghats and is home to a wide variety of flora and fauna including antelopes, neelgais, chinkaras and leopards. The forest area also includes the Nagarjunasagar – Srisailam Tiger Reserve. The natural landscape, the dense forestation with several stupendous waterfalls and other water bodies, make the attraction perfect for nature lovers.
A park with igneous rock formations, the Oravakallu Rock Garden has a restaurant, small ponds, boating facilities and a cave museum.
Ranamandala Konda is a religiously important attraction in the region as it is believed, this was the place where, during their exile, Lord Rama shot an arrow and it formed a lake to provide water to Goddess Sita. This is also where Lord Hanuman is believed to have fought demons while Rama was sleeping to ensure he doesn’t get disturbed. The attraction also has the famous Ranamandala Anjaneya Swamy temple which is a shrine with no roof.
A wildlife sanctuary spread across an area of 614sq kms, the Rollapadu Wildlife Sanctuary offers its visitors a journey into the wild, close to nature, amidst a number of diverse species of flora and fauna. Established in 1988, Rollapadu is especially known for being the home to the endangered species of the Great Indian Bustard and Lesser Florican. The wildlife sanctuary, spread across the huge area is the home to many birds and reptiles. With the Rollapadu village nearby, a man-made water reservoir, preserved for the consumption of wildlife, another reservoir for the collection of rainwater, Rollapadu Wildlife Sanctuary also sets a very good example of the mutual coexistence of mankind and nature. The sanctuary is open from 7 am to 6 pm.
Mantralayam A holy town, Mantralayam is located 74 km from Kurnool on the banks of the Tungabhadra river near the border with Karnataka. The town is known for Sri Guru Raghavendra Swami, a follower of the Vrindavant cult of Lord Krishna and a saint who entered into a samadhi alive in front of his disciples in the 17th century, a Madhwa saint who is considered to be a reincarnation of Prahlada who was a daitya king saved by Lord Vishnu’s Narasimha avatar. The temple and the Mutt complex are the main attractions here. The temple elephants and chariots carrying the deity around the temple on special occasions are spectacular as is the Tungabhadra river. The temple is open from 6 to 8:30 am, 9:30 am to 2 pm and between 4 to 9:30 pm though the best time to visit is during the evening aarti at 7 pm. Other sites worth visiting in the vicinity of the complex are the Panchmukhi Anjaneya Temple, the Lakshmi Venkateshwara Temple & the Vedic Pathshala or school.
Gandikota Known as the Grand Canyon of India, Gandikota is a small village near Kadapa flanked by the Pennar river on the right. The village is popular for the spectacular gorges formed by the river cutting through the Erramala hills. The narrow valleys with streams running between them and the steep rocky walls to give them company remind one of the Grand Canyon and requires a walk of almost a km from the main gate to reach the boulder from where you can observe the mesmerising view from the viewpoint near the fort. Located 1.5 hours away from the Belum Caves, the ruins of the Gandikota Fort built in the 13th century and flanked by the Pennar gorges on both sides and protected by a majestic 5-mile wall is spectacular. Built in red sandstone, the fort boasts of beautiful, intricate carvings in the interior. It also offers sweeping views of the hills and valleys below. In addition to a granary, jail and ruins of some temples, there are several structures within the fort that one can visit. The Raghunathaswamy temple is a unique temple inside the Gandikota Fort housing no idols but has airy corridors, complex hallways and is flanked by an array of towering pillars. The Madhavaraya temple on the other hand, has several idols and is a living masterpiece of ancient architecture. Boasting of several sculptures, the temple is a local favourite. The beautiful Jumma Masjid mosque situated within the premises called the Jamia Mosque, has a beautiful architecture, similar to that of the Charminar mosque in Hyderabad and is a popular camping spot because of the green cover in the vicinity.
Tadipatri An ancient temple town, Tadipatri was built during the golden years of the Vijaynagar empire. The Chintala Venkataramana temple is home to numerous, yet rare imagery of gods and their sculptures. Walking inside will reveal to an image of Lord Vishnu with multiple arms. This image of the deity is supposed to take on the forms of many other gods, such as one set of hands showing Lord Ram with a bow and arrow, while another set of arms shows Lord Krishna with a flute he. Built-in the shape of a chariot, the Chintala Venkataramana temple’s shrine dedicated to Garuda is made out of granite and carved with great detail. And it is similar to the Vittala Temple at Hampi which holds the Garuda mandapa. A protected heritage site from the 16th century, it is believed that the Bugga Ramalingeswara temple had been constructed between the years of 1490 and 1509 and is without any doubt, a must-visit for everyone. As one enters the temples, they are greeted with skilfully carved sculptures, towering gopurams and musical stone pillars. Sunsets are amazing with the temple as a backdrop. The temple is very distinct because of the occurrence of a natural underground spring, from where water creeps into the Garbha Griha. The water automatically drops onto the place where the Lingam is installed. It is believed that Saint Parasurama lived here and did extensive meditation here. The entire Shiv Purana is written on the temple walls. A beautiful village and mandal located within the heart of Bathalapalli, Anantasagram is a destination for nature lovers because of the huge amount of greenery and water from the riverbanks.
Anantapur A town in transition, Anantapur is at the confluence of the past and the future and reverberates with flashes of India’s glorious history and the true ethnic traditions and values. Anantapur also receives the second-lowest rainfall in India. It is said that the place has derived its name from Anaatasagaram, a big tank, which translates into endless ocean. Chikkavodeya, the minister of the Vijayanagar King, Bukka-I constructed the town of Anaatasagaram and Bukkarayasamudram.
Like all other ISKCON temples, the one at Anantapur, located at Somaladoodi village on the outskirts of Anantpur, is just as beautiful. The temple is in the shape of a horse-drawn chariot, with statues of four huge horses at the entrance. This temple is known as the Radha Parthasarathi Temple and was inaugurated in February 2008 and has a restaurant attached to it. The beautiful temple looks even more scintillating at night when lights illuminate its walls. The most cherished festival is Janmashtami, the birthday of Lord Krishna. The temple is open daily from 4 am to 12 noon and from 4:30 to 8:30 pm.
A recent addition, the Hanuman statue at Mounagiri is built several feet high and can be seen from several km afar as well as a temple, for those who wish to pray. The 37 feet tall Hanuman statue is made up of a single stone and was completed in the year 2010.
The Penukonda fort is located at a distance of nearly 70 km from Anantapur. Previously known as Ghanagiri, the name of the fort is derived from the word Penukonda, which literally means big hill. This historic fort was once the second capital of the Vijayanagar empire. According to archaeologists, the fort was built by Vira Virupanna Udaiyar’s rule, the son of King-Bukka I of Vijayanagar. A huge idol of Lord Hanuman is placed inside the fort. The 11-feet tall Penukonda Fort houses multiple mosques inside among which the Sher Khan Mosque is the most important. The Gagan Mahal, a palace inside the fort, was built back in the 16th century. Another palace, the Babayya Darga was constructed to symbolise harmony between Hindus and Muslims.
Situated 300 meters above sea level, the Gooty fort is one of the oldest hill forts in the state and the country. The name Gooty is derived from the town’s previous original name, Gowthampuri. Having been designated as a monument of national importance, the fort has been the stronghold of the Chalukyas, Mughals, Marathas, East India Company as well as the Vijayanagara empire before the Qutb Shahi dynasty took over. It is mentioned as the King of Forts according to various historical inscriptions found here. The mammoth Gooty Hill covers a vast area is surrounded by the town on three sides and the westernmost point housing the citadel of the fort. The ruins of the fort are dotted by numerous different buildings and spaces such as granaries, bastions, gunpowder magazine, ramparts, storerooms and temples. The fort is open daily from 9 am to 6 pm and there is no entry fee.
The Anantapur Clock Tower is the landmark in the town innagurated in 1947 and stands 71 m tall in the middle of the town and is well maintained.
Thimmamma Marrimanu is a huge banyan tree located at about 70 Km from Horsely Hills. This historical Marrimanu tree is has been preserved since ancient times with the word marri meaning banyan and manu meaning tree in the Telugu language.
Puttaparthi The holy abode of the Sathya Sai Baba, Puttaparthi is a town which takes you back to the days of ashrams. A tiny town, Puttaparthi has gained global fame as a religious centre offering modern approaches to religion, for being a unique village with urban facilities. Though Puttaparthi does not have many natural marvels or traditional tourist attractions, its richness and substance lie in its spiritual significance.
The main attraction here is the Sathya Sai Ashram known as Prashanti Nilayam, literally translates into the abode of peace. In the ashram one finds sprawling and beautiful educational institutions, stadiums, museums, hospitals and all the modern facilities capable of accommodating thousands of devotees at a time. The most discernible part of this ashram is the assembly hall where Sathya Sai Baba used to give his darshan. Inside the ashram is a banyan tree which was planted by by Sai Baba himself and is a silent zone for meditation in the ashram and is known as the Meditation Tree. A thick metal plate placed at the root of the tree is said to be joined by Sathya Sai Baba to boost the spirits amongt those who meditate here. The area is divided into separate parts for men and women. However, women are not allowed to visit before sunrise and after sunset for safety reasons. It is also believed that banyan trees have the power to purify the air all around, making the environment of the ashram all the more pristine. There is also an old tamarind tree in the ashram known as the Wish Fulfilling Tree. It is believed, that as a kid Sai Baba would take his friends up to this tree and ask them to think and wish for any fruit that they want to have, and the tree would give theme the same. The tree is located on the slope of a hill shadowing the Chitravathi river below.
The Shiva temple stands today where birthplace of Sathya Sai Baba is believed to be. One of the significant religious centre of the town, the Anjaneya Swamy Temple, dedicated to Lord Hanuman, houses a Siva Linga, believed to be brought by Sathya Sai Baba from Kasim, and a beautiful deity, which too shares a legend with Sathya Sai Baba. It is believed that as he was about to carry out the ritual of walking around the diety to worship and pay respects, the diety stopped him by saying that it is it, who should pay respect to him instead. At the foot of this deity one finds a pool of water which devotees believe to depict Lord Hanuman’s tears as his devotion to Lord Rama. The only temple in India dedicated to Sathyabhama, a lover and consort of Lord Krishna is here in Puttaparthi. The beautiful temple finds its origin to a dream that Sai Baba’s grandfather had where Sathyabhama appeared and asked him for an abode. The temple is adorned with various images of Lord Krishna. The Gopuram is a large and decorative gate devoted to Ganesh the elephant god. Built in 1975 as a birthday commemoration to Sai Baba, the gate is adorned with many multi-colored idols and stands over the entrance to his Ashram. Close to the Gopuram, is the Samadhi shrine, a cenotaph dedicated to Sai Baba’s parents. Morning prayers are carried here between 9:30 am and 11:30 am and the evening prayers are carried out between 4:30 and 6:30 pm. The area is also the site of an annual festival observed on Easwaramma Day, that is the death anniversary of Sai Baba’s mother. The festival is carried out with bhajans and special prayers and distributing food.
One of the most beautiful structures in Ashram, is the Chaitanya Jyoti Museum, which houses all stories and incidents of the life of Sai Baba, all the way from his early childhood. Visitors are introduced to the godliness and divinity of Sai Baba through multimedia presentations and more. The structure too, is a specimen of fine architecture and design which combines Chinese roofs, Moorish Spires, Gothic arches and Japanese and Thai styles. The museum was designed by a NASA scientist, Art-ong Jum Sai.
Inside the Ashram, one also finds a fascinating Planetarium known as the Sri Sathya Sai Space Theatre which on every Thursday conducts a show on space and astronomy with the idea to educate and create more awareness amongst the masses about the disciplines of Physics, Astronomy and Mathematics. There is a Spitz Space System which is used to get some amazing views of the night sky. The theatre can hold a maximum of 200 people at a time and tickets for the shows are given on a first come first basis. The show is available in both English and the Hindi, with the English show taking place between 10 and 10:45 am and the Hindi one between 11 and 11:45 am.
Close to the University in the ashram is the Spiritual Museum which showcases the foundation of one of Sai Baba’s main teachings, that is the unity of religions. The museum is constructed in a Shikhara style of architecture and the design also derives inspiration from North India’s Jain temples. The museum holds replicas, idols, artifacts and other instances of religions from all over the world. It also depicts and displays teachings of a number of saints and major religious convictions.
In our next part, which is the last one, we see Lepakshi, the hill station of Horsley Hills, the town of Chittoor which is a blend of old and new and the temple towns of Srikalahasthi and the world famous town of Tirupati
I can’t believe that it’s the end of January! Even though I logically know that it’s the elasticity of time at work, it just feels like yesterday we started 2021 and tomorrow we will tear off the page of the calendar that is January.
To start, here’s today’s positivity quote:
I have been more or less consistent with my resolutions for the year. I figured that if I stayed on the course for one month, it would mean the resolutions have become some sort of a habit and will be easily kept for the rest of the year. As a back story, I used to slack on some of these items (which I already did in previous years), especially during weekends, but this time I have been quite diligent in following through each day, including weekends. I do have hopes for this year. I am also keeping a very strict eye on my blood sugar levels and have an ideal number to reach by the end of the year, but this is something that will take time, so wish me luck there.
I’m really proud of keeping up my target steps for the month every single day of the month (and I will walk today too to finish the month on a high) and so yesterday I thought I should track how much further I have walked this year. The driving distance between Singapore and Mumbai according to Google maps is 6,747 km and though I know I won’t to that distance in a year, I thought I should track where I will be if I do this virtually. So this month, I have walked enough to cross the border into Malaysia from my home and then walk across the state of Johor and reached the state of Malacca! I
Last year, and in January, I was not able to read as much as I wished, though I am still on track for my reading goals for the year. I am looking forward to reading more in February, especially non-fiction since that is something I want to read more this year. Let’s see how this pans out. Yesterday I attended some wonderful Zoom lectures organised by the Singapore National Library Board about reading and my key takeaway from one of the lectures was today because of so much digital distractions, we are not reading deeply and only skimming. This really struck hard because I am currently really struggling with reading. So I am going to really force myself to sit with a physical book each day and read with concentration for at least 20-30 minutes each day. This is such a far cry from a decade or two back when I could sit with a book and binge read for a couple of hours at the very minimum.
If you notice, I haven’t yet spoken about COVID. The world had its one hundred millionth case this week and we are at 102 million cases with the US at 26 million cases, India at 10.7 million cases and Brazil at 9.11 cases. Earlier in the week, we were told that its very possible that the panademic will continue for the next three to four years and masking, safe distancing and good hygiene habits will be a norm rather than something we are expected to do.
Leader: 50 Insights from Mythology – Devdutt Pattanaik
What does the Biblical story of Nathan and David say about effective communication skills? How do you identify the Raja Bhoj, the Gangu Teli and the Shekchilli in your office? What is the corporate equivalent of an Ashwamedha yajna?
Drawing from sources as diverse as the Mahabharata and the Bible, the Vikram-Betal stories, the Iliad and the Odyssey, Islamic tenets, the tales of rishis and kings, and fables from around the world, Devdutt Pattanaik, India’s leading mythologist, provides a fascinating account of what leadership entails. How to choose the right leader, effectively communicate with a boss, maintain the right balance between discipline and leniency? In these and other workplace situations, Pattanaik shows what leaders of today can learn about the art of leadership from stories written thousands of years ago, things no management course can teach.
Leader: 50 Insights from Mythology uses myths and legends to arrive at wisdom that is both time-worn and refreshingly new, on what makes a good leader.
Guntur Known as the Land of Chillies, Guntur is famous for its massive chilli market yard. It is the 24th most densely populated city in the world, 11th most in India and third most populous town in Andhra Pradesh located at a distance of 30kms from the newly coined capital Amaravathi and forms a part of the new AP Capital Region. The earliest reference to the present name of the city can be dated back to the period of Ammaraja I who ruled between 922 and 929 AD, the Vengi Eastern Chalukyan king. In Sanskrit, Guntur was referred to as Garthapuri, which translates to a place surrounded by water ponds. The earliest recorded reference of Guntur comes from the Idern plates of Ammaraja I. The inscriptions stones in the Agastyeshwara temple in the Naga Lipi, an ancient script, dates back to about 1100 AD in old Guntur and is considered one of the its famous temples. The region has been historically known for Buddhism and the first Kalachakra ceremony performed by Gautama Buddha himself. With the arrival of the Europeans in the late sixteenth century the city attained national and international significance when the French shifted their headquarters from Kondavid Fort to Guntur in 1752. The Nizams of Hyderabad and Hyder Ali also ruled the city until it came under British rule in 1788. With a busy industrial scenario, Guntur forms part of the prominent Vishakhapatnam-Guntur Industrial corridor and is renowned as a textile and transport hub in India.
Kondaveedu lies about 17 miles from Guntur and houses an ancient fort belonging to the 13th century built by the Reddy kings comprising of 21 magnificent structures. Situated on the top of the hill, the views from the fort are amazing. The place also offers an ideal trail for trekking. A group of several temple located at the base of the hillock provides a captivating sight with Kathulabave and Gopunatha Temple being two of the many temples in the area. The best time to visit the fort is between October and March and the fort is open all days and has no entry fees.
Bhattiprolu is a small village mainly known for its Buddhist stupa that is a centrally protected monument of national importance. Originally known as Pratipalapura, Bhattiprolu was ancient Buddhist town that used to flourish during the rule of the Sala dynasty. As per records, King Kuberaka used to rule this town around 230 BC and the stupa is known to have been built around the 2nd and 3rd centuries BC. The stuapa was found during excavations between 1870 and 1892. Boasting of a diameter of 40 m, and an additional basement of 2.4 m, the great stupa is also called the Mahachaitya. The Mahachaitya also has a large halls with several pillars, some ruined votive stupas which have several stupas of Lord Buddha. Besides this, there were also some stone receptacles found- which contained a copper vessel, silver casket and golden casket, with enclosed beads of bone and crystal etc. During exavations in Bhattiprolu, examples of the Brahmi script were found written on an olden urn with the relics of Buddha. This script has been named as the Bhattiprolu Alphabet and experts believe that the Telugu and Kannada script was inspired by the same.
Originally known as Kondakavuru, Kotappakonda Trikutaparvattam is famously known as Kotappakonda or Trikutaparvattam meaning a three-peaked hill which actually lies nearby. Located nearly 25 miles from Guntur, it offers a panoramic view of majestic hills from any direction. The popular three peaks derive their names from Hindu mythology namely Vishnu, Brahma and Maheswara. Another place worth visiting is Guthikonda Cave as well as the Someswara Swamy temple is another popular place to visit. Kotappakonda Trikutaparvattam is open daily from 6 am to 12:30 pm and then again between 3 to 8 pm.
A place to admire a large number of endangered species of Birds, the Uppalapadu Bird Sanctuary is situated in the southern side of the city. The water tanks in the region are a perfect place to enjoy a beautiful spectacle of birds like the spot-billed pelicans and painted storks. The number of bird species has, however, has reduced in the recent time from 12,000 to 7000. There is an entry fee of INR 30 per person.
Chirala Also known as Ksheerapuri, which translates as the town of milk, the peaceful town of Chirala was founded by Minchala Paleti Papayya and Minchala Paleti Perayya. Over time, the name changed to Chirala, where Chira means a sari. The town and the surrounding areas are known for their high-quality hand-loom industry and is known as Mini Bombay or Chenna Bombay. Chirala is famous for its quiet beaches, splendid panoramic view and extremely hospitable people. The beaches of Chirala are untouched by human malice and over-population. The two prime beaches of the town include the Ramapuram Beach and the Vodarevu Beach which are famous for their silent and peaceful nature, where one can hear the waves roaring and chirping of birds with unparalled sunrises and sunsets. Chirala is an abode of magnificent temples, churches and glittering local market. Some of the noteworthy places include the St. Mark’s Lutheran Church, the Veera Raghavaswamy temple, the Padmanabhuni Swami Temple, the Sai Baba Temple, the St. Luke Church and the Pooleramma temple.
Nagarjunakonda An island today, Nagarjunakonda is a historical town, located near Nagarjuna Sagar, near the state border with Telangana. The ruins of several Mahayana Buddhist and Hindu shrines are located at Nagarjunakonda which is one of India’s richest Buddhist sites, and today lies almost entirely under the Nagarjunasagar Dam. The town is named after Nagarjuna, a southern Indian master of Mahayana Buddhism who lived in the 2nd century, who is believed to have been responsible for the Buddhist activity in the area. The site was once the location of many Buddhist universities and monasteries, attracting students from as far as China, Gandhara, Bengal and Sri Lanka. 3rd and 4th century inscriptions discovered there make it clear that it was known as Vijayapuri in that period with the name Nagarjunakonda dating to the medieval period. The Ikshavaku inscriptions invariably associate their capital Vijayapuri with the Sriparvata hill, mentioning it as Siriparvate Vijayapure.
Situated at the top of the hill, the Nagarjunakonda Caves depict the life of the Buddhist civilisation that existed here. From the beautifully carved sculptures, the inscriptions on the cave walls to the life sized statues and relics of the Buddha, this cave offers a visual treat. Apart from this, there is another cave situated underground and is horizontal and is said to be the second largest cave in the Indian sub-continent. The museum in the premises offers a collection of excavated artifacts belonging to the era. Open daily from 7:30 am to 7:30 pm, there is no entry fee to access the caves.
The chief abbot of Nalanda University, Acharya Nagarjuna established a University and meditation centre known as Dhamma Nagajjuna and many people from far and near came to learn the Dhamma and helped in spreading it all over Southeast Asia. Today this is known as Nagarjuna Sagar and is a Vipasna meditation centre that teaches the Buddhism way of living. The basic course is of a 10 day meditation programme, free of cost and involves living there with minimal belongings and attaining oneness with nature and oneself. The course is conducted in Hindi, Telugu and English. Though the course is free, prior reservations need to be made.
The world’s largest masonry dam protected with 26 gates measuring 14m in height and 13m in width, the Nagarjunasagar Dam is built across the Krishna river. The dam has a storage capacity of nearly 11,472 million cubic meters with an irrigation capacity for 10 acres of land. The dam is 150 m tall and is 16 kms in length while also being a major tourist attraction. It is among the first irrigation projects started by the Indian government as an element of the green revolution. Today, apart from offering not only irrigation facility, but it is also a source of hydroelectricity and attracts a large number of tourists owing to its great magnificence as well as the cover of dense green surrounding it offering a captivating view. The best time to visit the dam is between October to February and it has an entry fee of INR 20 for adults and INR 15 for children. Boating in the dam can be done daily except on Fridays at 9 am, 11:30 am and 1:30 pm.
Srisailam A hill town, Srisailam is famous for the Mallikarjuna Jyotirlinga Temple and is one of the 18 holy Shaktipeethas or pilgrimage sites for the Saivism and Shaktism sects of Hinduism. The town is classified as both a Jyotirlinga and a Shakti Peetha. Situated on the banks of river Krishna, Srisailam is identified with a wildlife sanctuary and a dam.
On the southern bank of the Krishna river is a temple the town Srisailam is known for. The Mallikarjuna Swamy Temple, is the most celebrated temple of the town and finds it roots in the sixth century, when it was built by King Harihara Raya of Vijayanagar. According to legend, Goddess Parvati cursed sage Bringi to stand, as he only worshipped Lord Shiva. Lord Shiva, after consoling the goddess, gave him a third leg, so that he could stand more comfortably. Visitors can find the idol of sage Bringi standing on three legs here as well as idols of Nandi, Sahasralinga and Nataraja. The walls and pillars of the temples are also adorned by beautiful carvings and sculptures. One of the most beautiful temples of the town, this is the one sacred structure, located on the Nallamala hills, that should not be missed.
At the highest point of Srisailam, referred to as Sikharam, one finds a temple dedicated to the Sikhareswara Swamy, watching over the landscape and a pristine Krishna river flowing below. Sikhareswara Swamy is one of the forms of Lord Shiva and is believed to possess the power to free his devotees from their sins. Here, at this abode of the Lord of Sikharam, you can find some of the most beautiful views in the area with another temple dedicated to Lord Ganesha.
A recent addition to the temples of Srisailam is the Hemareddy Mallamma temple located close to the Mallikarjuna Swamy temple. The temple has an ashram next to it.
Located amidst beautiful surroundings, the Sakshi Ganapati temple is a small little shrine dedicated to Lord Ganesha. Devotees believe that Lord Ganesha knows who visits the Mallikarjuna Jyotirlinga and keeps a record and shows it to Lord Shiva. Hence, devotees visit this temple first to register their visit before visiting any other temple in Srisailam. There is a modest climb of 10 steps to reach the sanctum of this temple which is nestled amongst dense woods.
A modest temple, housing a Shiva Linga, the Hathakesvara temple tends to be one of the most frequently visited temples, by locals. The temple is said to at the same place as where Sri Adi Sankaracharya, created one of his philosophical texts.
Situated at a distance of 20 km from Srisailam, the Ista Kameswari temple is dedicated to an avatar of Goddess Parvati, Goddess Istakameswari. Dating back to somewhere between the 8th and 10th centuries, the temple is based in the middle of a lush green forest and boasts of stunning landscape. Known to have a striking architecture and beautiful designs, the temple is located inside the folds of a cave that makes it all the more interesting and unique. Other than the surroundings, the highlight of the temple is the idol of Goddess Kameswari which is said to have a super soft texture although it is made in hard steel. It is believed that the Devi can grant any wish to the devotees if they visit it even once.
Srisalam is known for its devotion towards Lord Shiva, and a rocky bank of this river has in each of its rocks, believed to be an image of Lord Shiva. The belief also grants the bank its name, Lingala Gattu.
The setting of Akkamahadevi caves around 10 kilometres away from Srisailam in Telangana is a natural wonder. Located right across the Krishna river, the caves are a natural formation that has been in existence for more than a million years amidst the Eastern Ghats. With its naturally formed arch at the entrance which stands without any support of any kind, the main attraction is the deep-lying Shivalinga inside the extensive maze of pathways. The lingam is a popular religious shrine, dedicated to Lord Shiva and has attracted tourists and pilgrims for centuries. The hills of the Nallamala range across the ghat section offer serene, picturesque views of the vista around, en route the Akkamahadevi Caves. The Krishna river is the sole route available to access the caves, and the small but scenic journey is said to be well worth the effort. Private and public boat operators undertake these short trips from the small piece of habited land, close to Srisailam. Bordered by the towering Nallamala hills on all sides, ride may last up to an hour or so. The caves are named after the Kannada poetess, saint and philosopher of the 12th century, Akka Mahadevi. She is said to have performed penance and offered prayers inside the caves to the naturally existing Shivalingam deep inside the cave formation.
As the river Krishna turns down hill, it is called Patala Ganga or the underground Ganges with a certain spirituality in the air. One can also try the enjoyable ropeway car ride and look down at the majestic river and lush green beauty all around. The starting point of the ropeway is near the Srisailam Mallikarjuna temple. The ropeway is open from 6 am to 5:30 pm while you can enjoy boating from 9 am to 5 pm daily. Cost of the both the ropeway and the boating is INR 50 for adults and INR 35 for children.
One of the main centres of attraction for the town, the Srisailam dam is also one of the 12th largest hydroelectric projects in India. A blend of uninterrupted natural beauty and engineering genius, the Srisailam dam emerges out of the verdant greenery of the Nallamala Hills to mark its presence and is built across the verve of the Krishna river and nestled in a deep canyon, surrounded by forests and sceneries, finding a home in the sound of gushing and falling water. The road up to the dam is a scenic beauty too, and the view of the Srisailam Dam is a sight to behold. The foundation of the dam was laid down in 1960 and was completed in 1981 with the second phase undertaken in 1987 to convert the site into a multipurpose project with a capacity to generate additional 770mw of power.The imposing structure of the dam is perched at a massive height of 300 metres and the edifice itself is 145 metres in height and 512 metres in length. One of the best things to do around the Srisailam dam is to spend some quality time as one looks over to the gurgling waters of the Krishna. The view from the top of the dam is an astonishing sight, especially when the water is released and one can see the might of its flow. Visitors can also explore the dam using the ropeway and taking a boat ride on the Krishna river. The dam is open from 6 am to 5 pm daily and entry is free.
Octopus View Point is a view point is located 5 km before Domalpenta and offers amazing views of the adjoining forests, enchanting gorges and the mesmerising backwaters of the Krishna river. It is so named because of Krishna river down below looks like an octopus spread between the hillocks. It provides a spectacular bird’s eye view of the entire valley below. In addition to that, there is a regular safari tour conducted by the reserve that is the major highlight of the place.
Paladhara Panchadara is a beautiful scenic spot that is located around 4 km from Srisailam and can be reached by a flight of stairs that leads to an infusion of several streams. The gurgling of streams along with the beauteous natural environment surrounding the place makes it the perfect spot to reflect and unwind. It also holds significant religious importance as the name of the central stream Paladhara Panchadara is derived from the Hindu God Lord Shiva. It is believed that the stream was named after the one originating from Lord Shiva’s forehead with pala meaning forehead and dhara meaning stream. It is believed that Sri Adi Shankaracharya stayed here in the 8th century while he was meditating. He created his renowned masterpiece Sivanandalahari right here as well as the Bhramaramba Ashtaka where he praises Goddess Bhramaramba. Paladhara Panchadara is open between 9 am and 5 pm daily.
Find yourself fascinated as you witness instances of the livelihoods and cultures of the tribes of Andhra Pradesh at the Chenchu Lakshmi Museum. Also, honey collected by the tribes and packaged by the state government is also available at the museum for sale and is a true specialty to take back home.
The Srisailam Tiger Reserve occupies a total area of 3,568 acres, making it one of the largest tiger reserves in India. The Srisailam Dam and Nagarjunasagar Dam are also located in the reserve area. Apart from tigers, one can spot other animals like the leopard, sloth bear, dhol, Indian pangolin, chital, sambar deer, chevrotain, blackbuck, chinkara, and chowsingha. There are other reptiles and amphibians also found in this area including crocodile, Indian python, king cobra and Indian peafowl. One also finds a number of crocodiles in the down waters of Srisailam Dam, where a breeding programme, supported by the local government is being carried out.
Cumbum Cumbum town is widely popular for the age-old man-made lake here. Also called Gundlakamma Lake, it is built on the rivulet of the same name upon Nallamalai Hills. The lake is 7km long and has a width of 3.5km. Cumbum Lake is touted as one of the oldest man-made lakes in Asia. It has its roots in history as it was built by Gajapati rulers of Odisha back in 15th century and was later modified and its anicut was built by Varadharajamma, Vijayanagar princess and wife of King Krishnadevaraya back in the 17th century. Details provided from the Imperial Gazette of India shows that in those days, the lake supplied its water to 10,300 acres of land for the purpose of irrigation which is why it earned the reputation of being the second-largest irrigation tank in Asia. That Cumbum had been under the reign of Mughal rulers are proven by the inscriptions here in the town. There are two, particularly, which belong to the early 18th century. One refers to the death of Sheriff Khaja Muhammad, who was the Qiladar of the Cumbum fort during the reign of Aurangzeb and the other refers to Muhammad Sahib, the governor of Cumbum during the reign of Muhammad Shah. Since the lake is located in the lap of Nallamala forest, one can visit the nearby temples and waterfalls too. The Srisailam temple is nearby as well as the Bhairavakona waterfalls which includes the monolith Bhairavakons temple dedicated to Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati as well as eight smaller temples carved out from the hills.
Nellore Nellore is a beautiful city lying on the banks of the river Penna and was known as Vikrama Simhapuri in ancient times. There are various theories linked to the origin of its name. A mythological story from the Sthala Purana depicts a lingam in the form of a stone under a nelli tree. The place gradually became Nelli-ooru with Nelli standing for the emblica tree and ooru generally means place to the present day Nellore. Another explanation is that the town got its name from the extensive cultivation of paddy in and around it with Nell meaning paddy and ur meaning town. The Gazetteer of the Nellore District considers the latter the more plausible etymology. Nellore had been under the rule of Mauryas, Satavahanas, Cholas, Pallavas, Pandyas, Kharavela of Chedi dynasty, Kakatiyas, Eastern Gangas of Kalinga Empire, Vijayanagara Empire, Arcot Nawabs and other dynasties. The town was under the rule of Ashoka of the Mauryan dynasty in the 3rd century BC and then conquered by the rulers of the Pallava dynasty and was under their rule till the 6th century AD, subsequently the Chola rulers ruled Nellore for a long period of time. The Telugu Cholas met their decline in the 13th century. Tamil inscriptions indicate that it formed part of Chola kingdom till their decline in the 13th century and later became a part of Kakatiyas, Vijayanagara Empire, Sultanate of Golconda, Mughal Empire and Arcot Nawabdom. In the 18th century, Nellore was taken over by the British from the Arcot Nawabs and was part of the Madras Presidency. The city had an important role in the emergence of the Telugu language and the formation of the state of Andhra Pradesh. Potti Sriramulu, who fasted until death for the formation of Andhra Pradesh, hailed from Nellore. The town is known for its rich agriculture and has been an exporter of rice, sugarcane and cane based products, prawns, shrimps and a varied set of crops. It is the 6th most populous city in Andhra Pradesh.
Also known as Ramathirdham, the Ramalingeswara temple is located 30 km from Nellore city with the presiding deities being Lord Shiva and Goddess Kamakshamma. Devotees also visit temple to worship Lord Vigneswara and Subhramanya. An ancient temple, it serves as a magnificent architectural grandeur and is easily accessible from Vellore via a state highway.
Dedicated to Lord Vishnu, the Narasimhaswamy temple lies about 13 km from the centre of the town with Lord Vishnu being worshipped in this temple in his fourth incarnation. Also referred to as Sri Vedagiri Lakshmi Narasimha Swamy temple, the place holds several myths. The Santhana Vriksha located within the temple premises is said to bless the childless devotees while the Kondi Kasuli Hundi is considered to rid the sufferers from venomous snake and scorpion bites. A much smaller place of worship dedicated to Adi Lakshmi is also can be spotted above the main temple. The temple is open daily from 4:30 am to 12:30 pm and then again from 3 to 7:30 pm.
Lying on the banks of Pennar river, the Ranganatha temple is one of the most revered temples of Nellore. The temple is great religious significance and is considered to be the oldest temples of the area. The temple is also known for its beautiful architecture and exquisite carving and houses seven gold pots adorned with huge mirrors within the temple premises. The Addala Mandapam or minor hall situated within the complex is famous for its intricate inlay work. It is also a major part of the temple being the place where the idol of the presiding deity of the temple, Lord Sri Ranganathswamy is enshrined. The temple is open daily from 6 am to 12 noon and then from 2 to 9 pm.
Barah Shaheed Dargah is a mausoleum located very close to the sea in Sulurpet. The place was established in the honor of 12 martyrs and there is a common belief that those who visit here to pay their respects, have all their wishes fulfilled. The dargah is a sight to behold during the time of Moharram when a festival called Rottela Panduga is held for three days.
Mypadu Beach is a mesmerising beach with pristine seawater and golden brown sand and is located about 25 km from Nellore on the coast of the Bay of Bengal. One can take a long peaceful stroll across the beach or sit in the sand, contemplate about life or just absorb the beauty of the location. Open from 5 am to 6 pm and managed by the Andhra Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation, this beautiful beach serves as an ideal place to relax and connect with nature.
Renowned for being one of the most significant pelican habitats in southeast Asia, the Nelapattu Bird Sanctuary is every bird watcher’s dream location. This sanctuary is located just near the village of Nelapattu and is spread over a total area of about 459 hectares. The sanctuary is also a crucial breeding site for the spot-billed pelicans and is also home to significant plant areas like the Barringtonia swamp forests and the southern dry evergreen scrub. Other than the spot-billed pelican, the sanctuary is an important breeding ground for other birds as well, such as white ibis, openbill stork, night heron and little cormorant. In all, 189 different species of birds can be found here, of which 50 species are migratory. These migratory birds include the common teal, shoveler, spot-bill duck, grey heron, black-winged stilt, and garganey gadwall. It was declared as a sanctuary in 1997 and is open daily from 9 am to 5 pm. Entry fee for adults is INR 2 and for children, is INR 1 while foreigners pay INR 400/ If heavy vehicles need to enter, it will cost INR 100 and INR 50 for jeep and cars while it is INR 10 for two or three wheelers. If visitors plan on taking photographs, the camera fww is INR 50.
Patu Ru is a small village lying about 10 km from Nellore and is a perfect place to stock up on handicrafts and handloom sarees for which the village is renowned for. The village is settles between the triangle formed by Kovuru, Damarmadugu and Kovuru.
Our next part will see us exploring Andhra Pradesh’s judicial capital Kurnool, Gandikota, Tadipatri, Anantapur and the temple town of Puttaparthi
