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Travel Bucket List: India – Meghalaya Part 4

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Jowai

The headquarters of the West Jaintia Hills, Jowai is located about 65 km east of Shillong and about 50 km from the Indo-Bangladesh border and is home to the Pnar, a sub-tribe of the Khasi people and a matrilineal society. It is located on a plateau surrounded on three sides by the Myntdu river bordering Bangladesh to the south. Jowai is famous for its bucolic setting and breathtaking views, boasting of lakes, vast open valleys and waterfalls.

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Festivals such as Behdeinkhlam, Chad Sukra and Laho Dance attract many tourists each year. Behdeinkhlam, a major festival of the Pnars, is a 4-day event that takes place during July. Behdienkhlam means to drive away evils and plague and is celebrated in all parts of the Jaintia Hills. Dancing takes place in the street to the accompaniment of drums and pipe playing. Although women do not participate in dancing, they have an important role to play at home by offering sacrificial food to the spirits of the ancestors. Each locality prepares a decorative tower-like pillar structure called a rath, carried by 30 to 40 people to a small lake at Aitnar for immersion. The festival culminates when the khnong or the sacred tree is brought to the centre of each locality. In the afternoon, Datlawakor, a form of soccer with a wooden ball, is played between two teams from the upper and lower valleys of the Myntdu River. Those in the team who wins are believed to be blessed with a good harvest. Other festivals include Laho Dance and Chad Sukra.

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The Tryshi Falls are often compared to the Elephant falls of Shillong and is located about 8 km from the heart of Jowai. A bridge connects the waterfall’s surroundings with an expanse of green paddy fields. A breathtaking panoramic view of the Pynthor Nein is visible from the bridge. A trek to the bottom of the falls is amazing too. The Krang Suri Falls are located in Amlarem and have chiselled and gravelled footpaths and view points to enable visitors to better appreciate the beauty of the waterfall and its surroundings.

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Located at Mukhla, about 20 km from Jowai, the Thadlaskein Lake is a beautiful lake with anthropological importance. A popular tourist spot, the lake is crystal clear and reflects the sky. Unharmed and untouched by man the lake has been turned into a popular picnic spot. A small hotel managed by Meghalaya Tourism is just across the road which offers clean and good service. The lake was constructed by Sajar Nangli, a follower of the former Jaintia King. Surrounded by Pitcher Plants, the Jarain Pitcher Plant Lake, spread over 50,000 sq m, has boat rides which allow one to navigate the plants and is a unique sight. A fountain shaped like a pitcher plant has been installed in the middle of the lake which sits amid gravelled footpaths, arch bridges, a pitcher plant garden and a greenhouse interpretation centre.

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Famous for its sacred groves and the beautiful Pynthorwah Valley, the Lalong Park has become popular in recent times. A water eco-park with a view of the Pynthor Wah valley and the Myntdu river is also taking shape to change Lalong into a major tourism hub. 

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An ancient and famous temple, the Durga temple which is more than five centuries old is located near the remnants of the Summer Palace. In ancient times, human heads were offered to the goddess at the temple as human sacrifice. During British colonial rule, this practice was abandoned. The oldest church in Jaintia Hills, the Jowai Presbyterian Church was built by the Welsh Presbyterian Mission in the latter part of the 19th century and is one of the few structures in town that retain British architectural influence.

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Monoliths exist throughout the length and breadth of the Khasi and Jaintia Hills. However, the largest collection of monoliths are the Nartiang Monoliths. Here also lie the remnants of the Summer Palace with the archway of the site made using red bricks.

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The Umlawan Caves are the subcontinent’s deepest and largest caves. These caves are interconnected with the Kot Sati and Umskor Caves and have many stalagmites and stalactites. The caves are 100 m deep and 21km long. Meaning the flower of gold, Syntu Ksair is located on the banks of the Myntdu River and is the centre of the freedom struggle led by Kiang Nanbagh. A memorial has also been set up here in honour of him. Also known as Madan Madiah or Uncle’s Ground, Syntu Ksiar is a valley well irrigated by the Myntdu River. Today, the ground has a monument of U Kiang Nangbah, a fighter of the Khasi people. The Stone Bridge is an old historic stone bridge used by the Jaintia Rajas to cross while travelling from their Summer Capital in Nartiang to their Winter Capital in Jaintiapur, now in Bangladesh. The structure was broken once when an elephant tried crossing it.

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Mawlynnong

A small village located close to the India-Bangladesh border in the East Khasi Hills about 75 km south of Shillong, Mawlynnong has been declared Asia’s Cleanest Village in 2003 by Discovery India. Also known as God’s own Garden, Mawlynnong is a community-based eco-tourism initiative where the entire community made collective efforts in making and maintaining the cleanliness of the village. Mawlynnong offers a picturesque natural beauty with lush green valleys, crystal clear water in the river, an abundance of flowering orchids hanging from the trees and extremely clean roads which makes this small village worth visiting. Mawlynnong also offers pleasant weather throughout the year and especially during monsoon.

Mawlynnong also follows the tradition of a matrilineal society and as per the tradition of the Kasi people, property and wealth are passed from the mother to the youngest of her daughters, who also keeps the mother’s surname. Mawlynnong is known for its cleanliness. The waste is collected in the dustbins made of bamboo, directed to a pit and then used as manure. A community initiative mandates that all residents should participate in cleaning up the village. Smoking and use of polythene are banned while rainwater harvesting is encouraged. The reputation as Asia’s cleanest village boosted local tourism and in 2017 it was reported that, according to the village headman, incomes had increased by 60 per cent due to the increase in eco-tourism.

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The Dawki River, which is known to be very clean and crystal clear is located about 35 km east of Mawlynnong. Between Mawlynnong and Dawki, one comes across the Bophill Falls. The water falls at a very incredible force to form a river in the Sylhet border area of Bangladesh, making the water appears milky white. Known as the Sky View or Sky Walk, this is a popular attraction at Mawlynnong which is made up of cane and bamboo that offers a complete view of the Indo-Bangladesh border along with the village. To get to this 85 feet tower, one will be charged INR 10 per person. There is another mid-size waterfall within the village which is considered an amazing picnic spot is known as the Mawlynnong Waterfall. The Riwai Village is located 2 km east and is well known for the beautiful trekking it has through rainforests. However, the most popular tourist destination in the village is the small living root bridge made up of the aerial roots of rubber fig trees.

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Dawki

96 km southeast of Shillong, Dawki is a border town in the West Jaintia Hills and the gateway to Bangladesh. The town offers scenic views of some of the tallest mountain ranges in Meghalaya and the Bangladesh borderlands. The Dawki Integrated Check Post or the Dawki border crossing on Dawki-Tamabil is one of the few road border crossings between India and Bangladesh. It is used mainly for coal transportation to Bangladesh with some 500 trucks crossing the border every day during peak season.

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The Umngot River, also known as the Dawki River and Wah Umngot, is a river which flows through Dawki. The Umngot, a beautiful river with crystal clear waters is arguably one of India’s cleanest rivers and an important fishing spot for local fishermen. The river sits on the India-Bangladesh border, and a white portion of the river, caused by a rise in the current, marks the unofficial boundary between the two countries. A suspension bridge, the Dawki Bridge, hangs over the Umngot River that was constructed in 1932 and is a place of interest. Dawki is popular as a day trip from Shillong with many visitors coming here for the colourful annual boat race during spring on the Umngot River. Boating at the Umngot river is a must at Dawki. The water is so clean and clear that the boats seem to be floating on the river bed, a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The boating charges are around INR 600 for a 40-minute ride. Also known as Dawki Falls, the Umgrem Falls is another waterfall situated very close to the road that marks the border between India and Bangladesh and is highly popular among visitors.

In April 2021, the Meghalaya government decided to construct a dam on the river, because of an electricity shortage. The project was the proposed 210 MW Umngot Hydroelectric Project, which received loads of backlash and opposition from the local villagers, who feared that its construction would disrupt tourism and the project was eventually scrapped.

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Balpakram National Park

Located at an altitude of about 910 m or 3,000 ft close to the international border with Bangladesh, the Balpakram National Park was inaugurated in December 1987 and is home to wide species of plants and animals. Located in the southern Garo Hills in Meghalaya, about 167 km from Tura, and about 195 km from Shillong, the park’s vegetation consists of subtropical, grassland, bamboo forest, tropical deciduous trees, and carnivorous plants like the pitcher plant and Drosera. In the southern part of the Garo Hills, species in the national park include the Indian elephant, chital deer, wild water buffalo, red panda, Bengal tiger, and marbled cat. The rivers and lakes in the wildlife reserve are home to various species of birds. A variety of very rare medicinal herbs, which are locally known as dikges, also grow abundantly in Balpakram. The Central government of India has nominated the Garo Hills Conservation Area (GHCA), straddling the South and West Garo Hills, for a World Heritage Site, which includes Balpakram National Park and this has been listed in the UNESCO World Heritage tentative list.

The word Balpakram means the land of perpetual winds, and the national park is blessed with charming grace and breathtaking scenes. The Balpakram National Park is home to many endangered and endemic species of plants and animals. The area is full of sprawling vegetation of deciduous and subtropical trees. The region is also famous for the pitcher plant and other plants of crucial medicinal value that eee commonly found here.

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One can find a deep gorge in Balpakram, which is popularly compared to the Grand Canyon of the United States of America. The gorge is referred to as the land of the spirits since it is believed that the spirits of the dead live here temporarily before finally embarking on the journey towards their final abode. Numerous mysterious phenomenon takes place at the Balpakram National Park, for which modern science cannot give any reason, logic, or account. It is widely believed that the ghosts of the dead inhabit the gorge at the national park. There is also a thick schimawallichi tree in the national park, which has a depression on its trunk which seems to be the outcome of the constant tethering of animals and the work of harsh weather. Whenever a tree falls due to the strong winds, another tree situated close by gets affected with the same symptoms. One can also find a massive magnetic rock in the national park. This stone has a hollow space on its surface, which has a powerful magnetic force. Any animal or bird that wanders close to the rock is magnetically drawn towards the hallow, and they are never able to escape from there. Consequently, the animals die. Interestingly, this magnetic force does not affect humans. The steep rock cliffs that can be found in the canyon are supposed to be the natural habitats of the gonchos or evil spirits. These gonchos are believed to carry away people and lead them over steep precipices and inaccessible rock cliffs. They, however, do not cause any harm to their victims.

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The Balpakram National Park is also quite famous for its caves, which are complete with beautiful limestone formations of stalagmite and stalactite. The Siju-Dobkhakol Cave is situated on the bank of the Simsang River, just below the village of Siju, around 30 km to the north of Baghmara. This cave is 4772 m long and is renowned for being the third longest cave in India. It contains some of the most beautiful river passages that can be found all across the globe. The Tetengkol-Balwakol Cave, or the Cave of Dwarfs with inverted feet, is situated in Nengkhong village and is the second longest cave in India. Other prominent caves that can be found here include the Dobhakol Chibe Nala and Bok Bak Dobhakol.

The best time to come to Balpakram National Park is from late October to March when the weather is pleasant with little to no rainfall. One can enjoy watching animals during these months when they come to drink water in the rivers and lakes in the national park. There are no entry fees to the park which is open between 7 am to 6 pm daily. Balpakram National Park is a protected place, and prior permission has to be taken from the wildlife authorities before entering the area. One can easily obtain a permit to visit the National park from the DFO office in Baghmara free of cost.

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Williamnagar

Formerly known as Simsanggre, Williamnagar is the headquarters of the East Garo Hills and is named after Captain Williamson A. Sangma, the founding Chief Minister of the State of Meghalaya. The township was planned around the erstwhile village of Simsanggre, on the vast plainlands along the banks of the Simsang River, in 1976 after the Garo Hills district of yesteryear was reorganised to carve out a new district called East Garo Hills District.

Where Williamnagar is located has historical importance as it was here that the Garos made their last major resistance to the British intrusion into Garo Hills in 1837. The legendary Garo leader Pa Togan Nengminja Sangma was felled by the British, in a skirmish, at Chisobibra, on the outskirts of Williamnagar, on 12 December 1837. Located about km west of the state capital, Shillong, Williamnagar is a very remote area known for its abundance of natural beauty, being flanked by the mountains and has a rich composition of both water and vegetation.

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The Chamera Lake and the Simsang River are must-visit places while at Williamnagar because of their beauty. The conifers carpeting the banks and the clean air make this an unforgettable place. One should make sure they go for a boat ride and soak in the vast expanse of natural beauty. The breathtaking, magnificent and vibrant Domre Falls is a wonderful place to chill and let go of worries. Mrik Wari is close to the Simsang River famous for its rock formations. Some of the formations depict the shape of a baby elephant and its mother. According to legends, the elephants turned into stones after drinking the water from the river at daybreak. There are also several other formations in addition to the scenic view of the river and its beautiful surroundings. 120 km from Williamnagar, is Naka Chikong, a big rock with deep hollows, in the middle of the Ildek river in Badaka village. This big rock is mythologically believed to be swarming with fish, and there is a belief that if anyone inadvertently touches the big rock under whose hole the fish are, all the fish immediately disappear from the river. Home to many rare and protected birds along with other animals, the Siju Sanctuary is also known as Siju Bird Sanctuary. The Simsang Festival is a cultural event held in December which calls upon the best artists of the state with many smaller events taking place.

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Baghmara

Located very close to the border with Bangladesh, Baghmara is the headquarters of the South Garo Hills district, about 286 km west of Shillong. The name Baghmara is derived from the fight that took place between Bong Lasker and a wild Bengal tiger where he killed the tiger by crushing its jaws. Therefore the name Baghmara where bagh means a tiger and mara means to kill or die. To honour Bong Lasker, a tomb was built in the heart of the town which was previously known as Barokar, which means 12 streams with baro meaning 12 and kar meaning a stream in Bengali.

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Baghmara is not only rich in flora and fauna but also boasts many small lakes, rivers, and rolling hills. Flanked by the South Garo hills and fed by the Simsang river, this town is host to hordes of tourists every year. The Balphakram National Park lies around 66 km away and being a major trade hub with Bangladesh, Baghmara is known for its fish delicacies. The Someshwari River, also known as the Simsang in the Garo language, flows through the town. The famous Siju Cave is about 45 km away and to get to Siju one needs to go through Baghmara. The famous Balphakram National Park is 66 km away and one needs to pass through this town to get there. The town is home to the carnivorous pitcher plant and has the Pitcher plant sanctuary located at Dilsa Hill colony. The town viewpoint is also located on the same spot inside the tourist lodge with a breathtaking view of Baghmara. 4 km from the town of Baghmara lies the Baghmara Reserve Forest, inhabited by elephants, birds, and langurs. There is a provision for elephant rides in the reserve forest. The Baghmara Tyisam Fest is a 3-day fest that kicks off in December with lots of activities from drumming to beach football to fancy dress competitions.

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Tura

One of the largest towns in Meghalaya, Tura is located in the foothills of the Tura range of the Garo Hills. Located about 311 west of Shillong, Tura was known as Dura before the Britishers came to the Garo Hills and the name was corrupted to Tura as Tura was easier to pronounce. The climate in Tura is moderate throughout the year and their God Duma is believed to reside in the hills. Filled with small rivulets and green valleys all around, the principal languages spoken in Tura are Garo and English. Tura is relatively deeply rooted in its native Garo roots and boasts of rich undisturbed biodiversity and natural attractions.

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The main attraction of the town is the Nokrek National Park which is 12 km from the town where various animals such as the leopard, golden cat, wild buffalo, pheasant, and many more reside. The Nokrek National Park is located close to the National Citrus Gene Sanctuary-cum-Biosphere and this region comprises mainly deciduous and evergreen forests filled with different varieties of trees including the Tura peak which lends its name to the place, insectivorous plants, ferns, rare orchids, and medicinal varieties. In May 2009, Nokrek National Park was added by UNESCO to its list of Biosphere Reserves. The forests also have many fruit trees like plums, peaches, pears, and oranges as well as spices such as ginger, turmeric, and cinnamon. One may also visit the Rongbang Dar Falls, while a trip to this area, without visiting the Siju caves, would remain somewhat incomplete.

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Tura Peak, part of a reserve forest is an excellent destination for treks and sightseeing, as it allows panoramic views of the valley from the observatory accompanying it. About 7 km away from Tura, Pelga Falls is famous for angling and is also an excellent picnic spot. It is relatively free from crowds most of the time, making it ideal for those who want some quiet time. The best time to visit the falls is during the monsoon season when the flow is at its peak. Another popular tourist site, situated nearby, is the traditionally constructed Garo Bamboo Bridge, built over the Ganol River. The Rongbang Dar Waterfalls, also known as the Rongbang Dare, are located close to the Chinabat Village, about 39 km west of Tura. At a height of over 120 ft, this waterfall has fantastic visual appeal, especially during the monsoon season when the flow is large and speedy. Located close to the Siju Wildlife Sanctuary, Naphak Lake is a pristine location, excellent for bird watching and fishing. Many of the birds who reside or migrate to the Siju Wildlife Sanctuary can also be spotted here. It is located around 112 km from Tura and can easily be driven to. Tura Peak lies about 872m above sea level and there is a reserve forest at this mountain peak along with a tourist bungalow, a cinchona plantation, and an observatory. The massive yellow plains of Bangladesh welcome you at the peak which is an unforgettable sight. It is also possible to trek to the top of the peak.

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The next part, which will be the last part in this series will showcase the various hill ranges that are a part of Meghalaya’s landscape

In My Hands Today…

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The Foundling – Paul Joseph Fronczak and Alex Tresniowski

The Foundling tells the incredible and inspiring true story of Paul Fronczak, a man who recently discovered via a DNA test that he was not who he thought he was—and set out to solve two fifty-year-old mysteries at once. Along the way he upturned the genealogy industry, unearthed his family’s deepest secrets, and broke open the second longest cold-case in US history, all in a desperate bid to find out who he really is.

In 1964, a woman pretending to be a nurse kidnapped an infant boy named Paul Fronczak from a Chicago hospital.

Two years later, police found a boy abandoned outside a variety store in New Jersey. The FBI tracked down Dora Fronczak, the kidnapped infant’s mother, and she identified the abandoned boy as her son. The family spent the next fifty years believing they were whole again—but Paul was always unsure about his true identity.

Then, five years ago—spurred on by the birth of his first child, Emma Faith—Paul took a DNA test. The test revealed definitively that he was not Paul Fronczak. From that moment on, Paul has been on a tireless mission to find the man whose life he’s been living—and to discover who abandoned him, and why.

This is the story of Paul’s heart-wrenching and tortuous journey to solve both mysteries and finally learn the truth about his identity.

Travel Bucket List: India – Meghalaya Part 3

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Mawphlang

A beautiful village about 25 km southwest of Shillong, Mawphlang is home to Meghalaya’s Sacred Forest. The village lies in the East Khasi Hills and is named Mawphlang as it is one of the several monoliths in the Khasi Hills. The name Mawphlang means Grassy Stone where maw means stone and maw phlang means a grassy stone, and is one of many settlements in the Khasi hills named after monoliths.

Mawphlang was the centre of Presbyterian Church of Wales missionary and medical activity in the Khasi Hills during the 1890s. A dispensary and then a clinic were established in 1878 by Dr Griffith Griffiths who died at Mawphlang in 1892.

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Mawphlang is the site of one of the Khasi Hills’ sacred groves. Located on an area of 78 hectares, the sacred forest is of immense spiritual importance to the Khasis and is home to a variety of flora and fauna and is perfect for nature walks or trekking. Locals believe that the sacred forest of Mawphlang is protected by their deity, Labasa. Members of the Lyngdoh clan are ardent followers of the goddess and the protectors of the forest. According to a legend, the forest was first protected by the Blah Clan, who handed it over to the Lyngdohs when they couldn’t defend it anymore. It began with a condition from a Lyngdoh woman who has a son. She stated she would plant five saplings and if the seedling grew and became trees, her son would become a protector of the forest. People believe that nothing can be taken from the forest. Any disrespect towards the sacred forest is believed to upset the deity who then punishes the offenders. People are said to have fallen sick or even died when they disrespected the forest. The sacrifices to please the deity also have a strict procedure. Believers state that if the deity is happy with the sacrifice, she sends a leopard while if she’s not, she sends a snake.

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Located opposite the Sacred Forest, the Khasi Heritage Village has been created to showcase the traditional lifestyle of the Khasi tribes that include the Myliem, the Jirang, the Shella, the Wahadarship, the Nongkhhlaw, the Mawphalang and Nongstin, among others. The village has houses built in the conventional Khasi style with bedrooms, kitchens, storehouses etc. It also has a section for archery with the traditional bows and arrows displayed for visitors. There is also an amphitheatre that is often used to screen documentaries and serves as a stage for artists during the Monolith Festival.

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Usually held in March, the Monolith Festival is celebrated to re-unite the Khasi Himas through workshops, shows/ performances, art, culture, sports and competitions. The festival is also perfect to get a taste of the traditional Khasi cuisine and spirits. The monolith festival serves as an ideal platform for musicians and singers from Meghalaya. There are also kiosks selling fresh produce at affordable. A museum is also kept to display artefacts, tools, and weapons, traditional daily and occasional items that were extensively used by the Khasis.

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Named after David Scott, a British officer, the David Scott Trail is an old trail and one of the most popular trekking routes in Meghalaya. It is a 16 kilometres long trek that stretches from Mawphlang to Lad Mawphlang, both villages known for their history, culture and folklore. A centerstage of Khasi culture, Mawphlang is one of the settlements in the Khasi hills named after monoliths and having sacred groves. The trail was laid down to connect Assam and Bangladesh during the 19th century. The trek can be done from either side, but it is commonly attempted from the Mawphlang side since it makes it a less ascending trail. The trail is not well marked, but is a storehouse of wonderful landscapes that one experiences as one goes through. Rivers, woods, massive rock formations, cascading waters, streams gushing down from mountains, expansive meadows, forest groves and bridges connecting villages, the trek has it all. The 16 km trek is easy to moderate involving ascent and descent with a gradual descent for an hour, a flat walk of 2 to 3 hours and then a gradual ascent for the last 1 hour. The best time to take up this trail is during the winter months, however, it is not recommended during the rainy season because the trail becomes slippery and the river flows at a high force and crossing the river can be difficult then. The trail also gets infested with leeches during the monsoons and so should be avoided then.

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Cherrapunji

Located about 54 km southwest of Shillong, Cherrapunji is also known as Sohra which is connected to Shillong by a 50 km scenic road. It is the traditional capital of the Ka Hima Sohra or the Khasi tribal kingdom and the town is known for its double-decker living root bridge. Cherrapunji used to be the wettest place on the planet, but today this distinction has been taken over by Mawsynram which lies close by. However, Cherrapunji still holds the record for the most rainfall in a calendar month and a year. It received 9,300 mm in July 1861 and 26,461 mm between 1 August 1860 and 31 July 1861.  This sub-divisional town is famous for its rich flora and natural attractions. Other natural attractions include cave formations such as the Mawsmai Caves and Krem Phyllut. Asia’s cleanest village, Mawylyngnong is another famous tourist spot here, where visitors can live and experience the food and culture of the village. The misty valleys and the waterfalls in the region make a long drive through Cherrapunji ideal for those who love road trips. The breathtaking panoramic views of the valley and waterfalls such as the Nohkalikai Waterfalls are wonderful experiences to be had.

The original name for Cherrapunji was Sohra which was pronounced Cherra by the British. This name eventually evolved into a temporary name, Cherrapunji, meaning the land of oranges, which was first used by tourists from other parts of India. It has again been renamed to its original Sohra. The history of the Khasi people, the native inhabitants of Cherrapunji may be traced to the early part of the 16th century. Between the 16th and 18th centuries, they were ruled by the tribal Syiems or chiefs of Khyriem’ in the Khasi Hills. The Khasi hills came under British authority in 1883 with the submission of the last of the important Syiem, Tirot Sing Syiem. The superstructure of Khasi society rests in its matrilineal system. Despite abundant rainfall, Sohra faces an acute water shortage and the inhabitants often have to trek very long distances to obtain potable water. Irrigation is hampered due to excessive rain washing away the topsoil as a result of human encroachment into the forests. Recent developments in rain-water harvesting techniques in the area have greatly helped the town and its neighbouring villages.

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The Jingkieng Nongriat Double Decker Living Root Bridge is hidden deep in the lush, green forests of Cherrapunjee. Also known as the Umshiang Double Decker Living Root Bridge, this area is famous for root bridges made of Indian rubber trees, but the Double Decker Bridge is the most famous due to its large size. It is 3 km long at a height of 2400 feet with the Umshiang River flowing beneath it. Because it is a double-decker bridge, the bridge has two decks or tiers, created due to the entanglement of the roots. The upper bridge is 20 meters long and is difficult to reach if one is not physically fit enough to climb to the top. These bridges are crafted by hand, as done by the Khasi people for centuries, intertwining and weaving together the aerial roots of banyan trees on opposite sides of a stream-filled gorge. These bridges are made from the Indian rubber tree which has strong roots and only grows in the Northeastern part of India. The roots are trained to be shaped into a bridge by pulling the roots and twisting them or braiding them in the required direction. But, the bridges cannot be used immediately after shaping. The roots require at least 15 years to grow strong enough to withstand the weight of people walking across. The Jingkieng Nongriat Double Decker Bridge is said to be over 200 years old and only 50 people can use the bridge at the same time. The bridge starts at the village of Tyrna and crosses the Umshiang river during its journey. Getting to the actual bridge is a bit of a trek. The hike down to the bridge has about 3500 to 3600 steps each way to the bridge and back from the base village of Tyrna, which is 20 km from the main town of Cherrapunjee. On the way to the bridge, one can find several other smaller bridges, some of which are not naturally held up. At the site of the bridge, there is also a guest house where tourists can stay for a very low price. It is advised to not visit the bridge during the monsoons, between May and September, because the trek is slippery. The trek takes around 4 to 6 hours depending on the trekker’s speed.

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Known as the tallest plunge waterfall in the country, the Nohkalikai Falls are the fourth highest waterfall in the world which plunges 340 meters from a verdant cliff. Tucked in between the evergreen rainforest of Khasi Hills the falls plunge into a plunge pool with an unusual shade of green. The falls are fed by the rainwater collected on the summit of a comparatively small plateau and decrease in power during the dry season, from December to February.

According to local legend, in a village called Rangjyrteh, upstream from Nohkalikai Falls, there lived a woman named Likai who found she had no choice but to remarry following the death of her husband because she was left with an infant daughter and scant means of earning a living, so to sustain herself and feed her child she took on the arduous job of a porter. Her work required her to leave the child unattended for long periods and what little time she could spend at home was devoted almost entirely to caring for her baby. Realising that raising a child required both parents, Ka Likai married a second time for the sake of her daughter. However, as the mother to an infant, she was obliged to give her daughter constant attention, at the expense of giving her second husband the love he thought he deserved. Consumed with jealous rage and a hatred for his stepdaughter, he killed the infant in cold blood and cooked her flesh, after first throwing away her severed head and bones to hide all traces of the murder. When Likai returned, she found the house empty, although someone had prepared a meal. She wanted to go and look for her daughter but was so famished from her labours that she fell upon the dish of cooked meat, devouring it until she could eat no more. Ka Likai usually chewed a betel quid after her meal but was horrified to discover a severed finger near the place where she usually prepared her betel nuts and betel leaves. Realising what had happened in her absence she went mad with anger and grief and began to run in a frenzy, all the while swinging a hatchet in her hand. She finally ran right off the edge of the plateau, plunging to her death, unable to bear any longer the thought that she had unknowingly eaten her murdered daughter. The waterfall from which she leapt was named Nohkalikai Falls as a grim reminder of the tragedy that had befallen the unfortunate Ka Likai.

The best time to explore the falls is between October to December and from March to May as these are the clearest months in Cherrapunjee. However, even then, one cannot guarantee a good sight of the falls due to imminent cloud cover. In winters the lagoon below the falls is largely dried up, while it brims with water in the summers. Angling, trekking, landscape photography, bird watching and swimming are some of the activities that can be enjoyed at the falls. The falls are open from 8 am to 5 pm and have an entry fee of INR 10 per person.

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The Wakaba Falls are another scenic falls located in the area as are the Dainthlen Waterfalls which is one of the popular falls in Cherrapunji. Legend has it that in the caves near the falls an evil snake was once killed with the snake representing greed and evil. There are carving on the rocks and caves nearby. The Dainthlen Falls are about 5 km from Cherrapunji. The Mawkdok Dympep Valley View is a viewpoint developed by the state government that lies at the beginning of the Sohra tourism circuit.

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Meghalaya is home to some amazing and mysterious cave systems and the Mawsmai Cave is by far the most popular of the lot. Located just 6 km away from the heart of Cherrapunji, the Mawsmai Cave is a breathtaking maze of caves in the East Khasi Hills. The well-lit caves are a view to behold when the glistening light meets with the limestone to create countless hues and patterns of light. There is plenty of flora and fauna within the cave which is 150 m in length and is not as long compared to the other caves in the region but it provides one a glimpse of life underground. One should carry a torch in case they wish to explore the darker corners of the cave system at Mawsmai. The cave is open between 9:30 am to 5:30 pm and has an entry fee of INR 10 per person with a camera fee of INR 15 per person.

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Located south of Cherrapunji, the Krem Phyllut is a major tourist attraction owing to the caves. There are three different entrances to the caves and two separate river passages within and it is always crowded with locals and tourists.

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The Eco Park is another local favourite because the Shillong Agri-Horticulture has given this park many beautiful orchids that are housed in the Eco Park’s greenhouse. The Eco park’s biggest USP is the viewpoint from where one can enjoy views of the massive, yet exotic Sylhet Plains of Bangladesh.

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The Khasi Monoliths are located close to the Mawsmai Falls. These are amazing underground mazes and passages of age-old caves and are stones standing as memoirs of various ancestors.

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Nongpoh

Nongpoh is the administrative centre of the Ri-Bhoi district and is located about 52 km north of the state capital of Shillong and about halfway between Shillong and Guwahati. A small town north of the East Khasi Hills, Nongpoh is situated very close to the gorgeous Brahmaputra plains and is used as a stopover between Shillong and Guwahati. The town is filled with beautiful rivers, plush green trees and serene climatic conditions. The Lum Nehru Park is a one-hour drive from Nongpoh and is a lush garden. Full of scenic beauty with lush green lawns and gardens, aviaries and wonderful orchids, this garden is a local favourite and when one visits the park, one can see why. Mythologically significant, the Lum Sohpetbneng is located about 40 km from Nongpoh. Popularly known as the Navel of Heaven, it is a pilgrimage site for the local Khasi population. At a height of 1343 metres, the Lum Sohpetbneng is enveloped in verdant greenery and surrounded by majestic peaks creating a viewpoint for the visiting tourists, serving as a perfect place for nature photography. The peak of Sohpetbneng symbolises the deep-rooted spiritual belief of the Hynniewtrep or the Seven Huts people predominating the West Khasi Hills, East Khasi Hills, Ri-Bhoi and Jaintia Hills.  It is believed that it was on this spot that a golden ladder connected Heaven and Earth, creating a direct connection between man and God. The connection was later severed according to a divine decree and every year in February, the Khasi people gather at Lum Sohpetbneng to conduct their rites and rituals. The beautiful Church of Christ is just at a stone’s throw away from the famous Lemawlong Market.

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Mawsynram

Reportedly the wettest place on Earth, Mawsynram is a town in the East Khasi Hills, about 61 km southwest of Shillong. With an average annual rainfall of 11,872 mm or 467.4 inches, Mawsynram received 26,000 millimetres (1,000 in) of rainfall in 1985 according to the Guinness Book of World Records. On June 17th 2022, Mawsynram set a new record by receiving 1003.6 mm in 24 hours which has now become its highest single-day record for June and for its all-time single-day record beating its former record of 944.7 mm on June 7th 1966.

The Maw in Mawsynram is a Khasi word meaning stone and symbolises the unique megaliths unearthed in the Khasi Hill area. The village is well known for its huge formation of a stalagmite, which takes the shape of a Shivaling. The rains are so powerful in Mawsynram that the locals make use of thick grass to soundproof their homes from the thunderous rain. About 25 km away from Mawsynram, Mawlyngbna is known for rich fossils and a natural geyser.

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The Mawjymbuin Cave is located in Mawjymbuin village and is a religiously significant site. Made of calcareous sandstones and having numerous stalagmites which are formed as a result of calcium carbonate depositions, weathering and the dripping of mineral-enriched liquids, the 209-metre-high cave is of special interest to geologists who conduct special research here. Inside this cave is a pair of notable speleothems that are stalactites shaped like a cow’s udder over a large stalagmite. The Mawjymbuin Cave is also thronged by naturalists, photographers, pilgrims and tourists alike. A rock-shaped structure arising from the earth, shaped like a shiva linga is the primary attraction of the cave and is highly revered by Hindus. It also has a thin stream flowing towards the eastern end of the cave. There are many rift entrances and passages to the cave, some of which are tough to enter through. The Mawsmai caves are an ideal location for cave exploration and cave diving.

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The Nohsngithiang Falls is also known as the Mawsmai Falls because it is situated in the Mawsmai Village. One of India’s tallest waterfalls and a major tourist attraction, the Nohsngithiang Falls falls from a height of about 1033 feet, segmented into seven different sections, giving it the epithet of Seven Sister Waterfalls. The waterfall is seasonal and plunges over limestone-covered hills only during the rainy season. The falls are symbolic of the seven sister states of Northeast India namely Assam, Arunachal Pradesh, Manipur, Nagaland, Tripura, Mizoram and Meghalaya. The mesmerising waterfall cannot be entered into but creates a spectacular viewpoint to view the surrounding beauty of Mawsmai. The beauty of Nohsngithiang Falls is indescribable during sunset when the rays of the sun fall on it creating a perennial rainbow, which is also one of the major highlights of the place. The falls are open between 9 am to 5 pm daily.

The next part will continue to showcase some well known and little known places in Meghalaya.

2022 Week 35 Update

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This week’s quote is a very simple one which comes to us from Jim Thompson, the American businessman who helped revitalise the Thai silk industry in the 1950s and 1960s. Thompson disappeared in March 1967 from Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands. His disappearance generated one of the largest land searches in Southeast Asian history and is one of the most famous mysteries in the region. What this means is that when we positively look at everything around us, be it something small or large wins, it means that our lives will start to become more positive and just as like attracts like, when we exude positivity, positivity flows back into our lives.

This month, I am still in the state of Bihar, but very close to the state’s borders with India’s largest state, Uttar Pradesh. I have been slacking a bit, but have decided to give it my all in the last four months of the year.

I have been reading more this month too and because some of the books were so interesting, it was very easy to read them. I have read seven books this month and am currently on the way to finishing the eighth one very soon.

GG & BB are busy with their lives and are having fun on their break. BB will start going back to school in less than two weeks to start work on his final year project, while GG still has another month of holidays before her final semester.

And that’s all the news from my side, have a wonderful week people!

In My Hands Today…

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The Viceroy’s Daughters: The Lives of the Curzon Sisters – Anne de Courcy

For many years Lord Curzon, Viceroy of India (1898-1905), controlled all aspects of his daughters’ lives. Irene, born in 1896, Cynthia, born in 1898, and Alexandra, born in 1905, eventually revolted against their father’s control.

Irene had many affairs but never married. Cynthia married the up-and-coming Oswald Mosely, and Alexandra married the Prince of Wales’ best friend, Fruity Metcalfe. Throughout the 1920s, the sisters were at the centre of a fast and glittering world.

This biography provides insight into their lives, public and private, and gives a different view of German, Italian and British fascism. Based on unpublished letters and diaries, this book provides new revelations about Oswald Mosely, the Cliveden set, Lord Halifax, and the Duke and Duchess of Windsor.