Travel Bucket List: India – Haryana Part 3

Hisar
About 66 km northwest of Meham lies Hisar, known for its steel industry. Hisar was ruled by several major powers, including the Mauryas in the third century BC, the Tughlaqs in the 14th century, the Mughals in the 16th century, and the British in the 19th century. After India’s independence, it became part of the Punjab state and when Punjab was divided in 1966, Hisar became part of Haryana.

Hisar comes from Hisar-e-Firoza, which was given to the town in 1354 by Firoz Shah Tughlaq, the Sultan of Delhi from 1351 to 1388. The word Hisar means fort or castle in Persian with Hisar-e-Frioza meaning the fort of Firoze. Timur invaded the city in 1398 AD and his soldiers set fire to the fort.

The Ghaggar and Drishadvati Rivers once flowed through the city, but they have now changed their course. Archaeological excavations at the nearby locations of Rakhigarhi (7000 BC), Siswal (4000 BC), and Lohari Ragho suggest the presence of human habitation from the pre-Harappan period. Later, the Aryan people settled around the Drsadvati River. The Jain literature Uttaradhayana Sutra from about 468 BC mentions a town Isukara, believed to be the earlier name of Hisar. The kingdom of Hisar, with its capital at Agroha, possibly assisted Chandragupta Maurya in his war against the Greeks. The kingdom was then included in the Mauryan Empire, as evidenced by the discovery of Ashokan pillars in the vicinity of the city and later came under the Kushan and Gupta Empires. The city later came under the rule of Sayyid dynasty and Lodi dynasties before Babur defeated Ibrahim Lodi in the first battle of Panipat and remained under the rule of the Mughals until 1760.

The region came under the rule of the British East India Company in 1803 and remained so until the Indian Rebellion of 1857 when Muhammad Azim and Rao Tula Ram conquered it away for a short period. Between 1803 and 1879, the British constructed a 4,000-km-long Great Hedge of India, for the levy of customs duty on salt and sugar, that ran through Hisar and Hansi. The city remained as a major centre of the Indian independence movement from the rebellion of 1857 until independence.

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Signs of pre-Harappan settlements have been found at Siswal, Lohari Ragho and Mingni Khera near Hisar. The Rakhigarhi settlement covers 2180 hectares, making it the largest Harappan site in India and the second-biggest overall after Mohenjodaro. Agroha, located about 24 km from the city was once the capital of king Agrasena, believed to have lived during the last stages of the Dvapara Yuga during the time of the Mahabharata era. Remains of his capital have been excavated, known as Agroha Mound or locally as Ther, and belong to around 3000 BC. The city was also a major centre during the Mauryan period as Buddhist and Jain temples have also been revealed in the excavations.

The now lost ancient Drishadvati river, a tributary of ancient Sarasvati River used to flow through Hisar. Today it flows as a remnant via the Ghaggar-Hakra River. The historic Agroha Mound and Agroha Dham is located on the outskirts of the city about 22 km away. A local deity Banbhori is worshipped by the locals who believe in her power.

The oldest park located in the city is the Krantiman Park, located across the historic St. Thomas Church. The park was built in the 19th century and was then known as Company Bagh. Other parks include Madhuban Park, Town Park, and O. P. Jindal Knowledge Center, which includes a museum, library, park and houses a 25-storied steel tower, one of the tallest structures in the town and modelled on the Space Needle Centre in Seattle. The Haryana Rural Antique Museum exhibits the evolution of agriculture and vanishing antiques. The Jahaj Kothi Museum, named after George Thomas, is located inside the Firoz Shah Palace Complex while the Rakhigarhi Indus Valley Civilisation Museum is located at Rakhigarhi, an Indus Valley Civilisation site 60 km away.

Blue Bird Lake is an artificial lake and tourist complex maintained by the Haryana Tourism Department and offers boating and watersport facilities, bird watching and options to picnic. The deer park and Shatavar Vatika Herbal Park are located on the outskirts of the city and was established in 1971. Endangered species such as blackbucks, chitals, sambars, and nilgais can be found here.

Hisar Fort was built with four gates, the Delhi Gate and Mori Gate to the east, the Nagori Gate to the south, and the Talaqi Gate to the west and was completed in 256. In the middle of the fort stood the Firoz Shah Palace, built of red sandstone consisted of a mosque, a Diwan-e-Aam, a palace for the shah’s wife, underground apartments and a granary. The artwork in the fort synthesizes Islamic and Indian architecture while the mosque is an example of Seljuk architecture. The Shahi Darwaza entrance to the palace faces east and is still standing. Shahi Darwaza which in Persian means royal gate was reserved for the royal family. The Talagi gate faces west, with access to the ancient Agroha Mound and Sirsa, and still stands across from the main bus station of Hisar. The Nagauri gate, now demolished, led south to Nagaur and on to Jodhpur in Rajasthan. The Mori gate faced east with a water channel, entering the fort complex through a hole to supply water. Both the gate and the water hole no longer exist. The Delhi gate also no longer exists today. The royal palace is a rectangular three-storied building of stone masonry with two floors above ground and one underground. On the far north and west sides of the royal palace complex, a watchtower with three stories above ground and one underground doubled as a staircase, connecting all floors of the palace and serving as a corner passage between the north and west sides of the building and was the tallest structure in the complex. The central courtyard which served as an open-air private audience hall was known as the Diwan-e-Khas. Immediately to the right of the royal gate is the Diwan-e-Aam, or audience chamber. The Lat ki Masjid to the east is within its courtyard, and the Ashoka pillar or lat is in the middle of the courtyard. An L-shaped ablution pool lies in the south corner of the courtyard. In the northwest corner is a raised Takht-i-shahi or Muluk-khana platform on four smaller red stone pillars, where the throne of the king used to be. The throne can be reached by five red sandstone steps. Under the platform is a dried-up well. The most visible part of what now remains of the palace is the Baradari on the upper level, so named for the twelve doorways, three on each side. It was used for social gatherings. Four pillars inside the chamber support the roof.

Jahaj Kothi Museum, a later era building that was originally a Jain temple which was later used as a residence by George Thomas, is located inside Firoz Shah Palace Complex and maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India. The Haryana Rural Antique Museum in Hisar aims to preserve the vanishing antiques of rural Haryana and was extended in 2010. The museum houses the collection of antiquities showcasing the development of agriculture and rural society in the state with the collection including clothes, agricultural and farm tools and implements, rural tools and equipment, rural music instruments, Haryanvi folk dresses for men and women and farm vehicles.

The Bir Bara Ban Wildlife Sanctuary is located about 69 km east of Hisar and is spread over an area of 4.2 sq km. The sanctuary has several species of birds, animals and mammals and was notified as a sanctuary on 11 October 2007.

Panipat
A historic city, Panipat lies about 95 km north of Delhi and 169 km south of Chandigarh. The city is well known by every Indian child for the three major battles fought in 1526, 1556 and 1761 that took place near the city. The city is famous in India as the City of Weavers and Textile City and is also known as the cast-off capital due to being the global centre for recycling textiles. Panipat was one of the five cities or prasthas founded by the Pandava brothers.

Panipat was the scene of three pivotal battles in Indian history. The First Battle of Panipat was fought on 21 April 1526 between Ibrahim Lodhi, the Afghan Sultan of Delhi, and the Turko-Mongol warlord Babur, who later established Mughal rule over the Northern Indian subcontinent. Babur’s force defeated Ibrahim’s much larger force and marked the beginning of Mughal rule in India. The Second Battle of Panipat was fought on 5 November 1556 between the forces of Akbar and Hem Chandra Vikramaditya, the last Hindu emperor of Delhi. The place of martyrdom of Raja Hemu is now a famous shrine in Panipat. The Third Battle of Panipat was fought on 14 January 1761 between the Maratha Empire and the Afghan and Baloch invaders. The Maratha Empire forces were led by Sadashivrao Bhau and the Afghans were led by Ahmad Shah Abdali. On 14 January, over 100,000 soldiers died resulting in the victory for the Afghans. However, after the victory, the Afghans facing a hostile North India, retreated to Afghanistan to avoid casualties. This battle served as a precursor for the East India Company to establish Company rule in India as most of North and Northwest Indian princely states were weakened.

The term Panipat Syndrome, coined by Air Commodore Jasjit Singh has entered the lexicon as the lack of strategic thinking, preparedness and decisive action by Indian leaders thus allowing an invading army to enter well inside their territory. This is based on the fact that in the three battles fought here, the defending armies were decisively defeated each time.

King Hemu’s Samadhi Sthal or the place where he was beheaded by Emperor Akbar’s general Bairam Khan at Shodapur on Jind Road. Hemu’s head was sent to Kabul where it was hung outside the Delhi Darwaza while his body was placed in a gibbet outside Purana Quila in Delhi to terrorise his supporters, who were mainly his subjects, both the Muslims and Hindus.

It was one of Sher Shah Suri’s dying regrets that he could never fulfil his intention of erecting a tomb to the fallen monarch Ibrahim Lodhi. The tomb is a simple rectangular structure on a high platform approached by a flight of steps. Much later, in 1866, the British relocated the tomb which was just a simple grave during construction of the Grand Trunk Road and added a platform to it with an inscription highlighting Ibrahim Lodhi’s death in the Battle of Panipat.

The garden of Kabuli Bagh along with the Kabuli Bagh Mosque and a tank were built by the Mughal emperor Babur after the First Battle of Panipat to commemorate his victory over Ibrahim Lodhi. Some years later when Humayun defeated Sher Shah Suri near Panipat, he added a masonry platform to it and called it Chabutra Fateh Mubarak, bearing the inscription 934 Hijri which corresponds to 1557. These buildings and the garden still exist under the name of Kabuli Bagh called so after Babur’s wife, Mussammat Kabuli begum.

According to tradition, the Kala Amb Memorial lies about 8 km from Panipat and is where Sadashiv Rao Bhau commanded his Maratha forces during the Third Battle of Panipat and was marked by a black Mango Tree or Kala Amb which has since disappeared. The dark colour of its foliage was probably the origin of the name. If legends are to be believed, the war ground, as well as the other plantations in the vicinity, turned black due to the uncontrolled bloodshed that took place and the mango tree situated in the centre of the ground started to bear back fruits, and thus the name Kala Amb.

The site has a brick Pillar with a red obelisk which marks the spot where the Maratha commander Sadashiv Rao Bhau passed away and is surrounded by an iron fence. The site is being developed and beautified by a society presided over by the Governor of Haryana. The Kala Amb Smarak is a popular spot of interest at the Kala Amb. Built in the shape of a pillar that looks like a small tower, with one rod on the top jammed vertically into the pillar, it is made up of red coloured bricks, and its circumference decreases as the height increases, which means that from the bottom, it is much wider than at the top.

On the banks of a large tank lies the Devi Temple, dedicated to a local deity. Besides this, there is a Shiva temple which is believed to have been built by a Maratha named Mangal Raghunath who had remained in Panipat after the third battle and defeat of the Maratha forces. Dedicated to Lord Rama, the Shri Ram Sharanam is a prayer hall inaugurated by Swami Satya Nandji in 1960. Currently, it is headed by his disciples of Maa Shakuntala Devi and Maa Darshi Devi.

Standing for over seven hundred years, the tomb of Bu-Ali Shah Kalandar, a Sufi saint born in 1190, is also known as the Dargah of Shah Kalandar Khizar Khan, the son of Allau-din Khilji. Enclosed at Qalandar chowk, this tomb’s architecture matches the likes of the Ajmer Dargah in Ajmer and the Hazrat Nizamuddin Dargah in Delhi. The mausoleum was during the Mughal era by Emperor Jahangir’s general, Mahabat Khan in the memory of Hazrat Shareefuddin Bu Ali Shah Qalandar.

Set up by the Battle of Panipat Memorial Society, the Panipat Museum has been specially established for disseminating information about archaeology, history, art and crafts of Haryana with special emphasis on the Battles of Panipat which marked the turning point in Indian history. The museum displays antiquities, inscriptions, sculptures, arms and armours, Pottery, old and valuable documents, jewellery and art and craft objects aided by modern maps, write-ups photographs and slides. Enlarged photographs of a large number of important miniatures, mostly from Babur-Nama and Akbar-Nama, relating to these battles and personalities have been obtained from the National Museum of New Delhi, the British Library and the Victoria and Albert Museum of London. A Large number of contemporary weapons, armoury, guns, etc. have been acquired through a loan from the Archaeological Survey of India.

Karnal
36 km north of Panipat, and nestled on the banks of the Yamuna River, Karnal is popularly called the Rice Bowl of India for its vast rice fields. The Battle of Karnal between Nader Shah of Persia and the Mughal Empire took place in this city in 1739 and the town was used by the East India Company army as a refuge during the Indian Rebellion of 1857.

The city associates itself with the warrior from the Mahabharat, Karna and has recently set up a large statue of the great donor and a powerful warrior. A tank in the city also bears the name Karna Tal and a town gate is called Karna gate. At the end of the 6th century, the area was under the rule of the Vardhanas of Thanesar while the 7th century was a period of eclecticism in religion with the decline of Buddhism and the resurgence of Hinduism in the Indo-Gangetic plains. The region was under Kanauj rule under the Pala Emperor of Bengal with the authority of Mihira Bhoja, the Pratihara ruler of Kanauj penetrating as far as Pehowa, including Karnal.

The Sikhs appeared on the scene in the 18th century when the importance of Karnal grew during the rule of Raja Gajpat Singh of Jind State who after its capture in 1763 built the boundary wall and a fort and under whose rule the town increased considerably in size. On 14 January 1764, Sikh Chiefs defeated and killed Zain Khan Sirhindi, the Durrani Governor, and took possession of the whole of Sirhind province as far south as Panipat including Karnal.

A popular tourist attraction, Karna Lake is also called the Karna Tal. Known for its spectacular sunsets, Karna Lake is named after the warrior Karna from the Mahabharata and is man-made with the beautifully landscaped Karna Lake Tourist Complex adjacent to it. Boating is a local favourite and the complex has swings and other rides for children. It is said that it was here that Karna decided to give away his protective armour to Lord Indra. The period from October to March is the best time to visit the lake when weather conditions are extremely pleasant and offer an ideal atmosphere for a picnic by the lake.

Atal Park is spread over an area of 55 acres, including a lake spread over 4 acres. It has an open-air gym, a lily pond, a few fountains which are illuminated with lights in the evening and a children’s playground. There is a modest Sarawati Temple inside the park and other nearby attractions include the Cantonment Church Tower, Karna Lake, Karneshwar Mahadev Temple and the Durga Bhawani Mandir. The park is open from 4 am to 10 pm and there is no entry fee.

The Durga Bhavani temple houses the powerful embodiment of female cosmic power or Shakti. The Navratri festival in the temple is especially popular and Dusshera is marked by large processions of the deity on the road and tall statues of the goddess. Don’t forget to shop for handicrafts and local delicacies in the nearby markets with metal jewellery and other trinkets especially favourite buys. The Sita Mai temple is the only temple dedicated to Goddess Sita in India and is built in an intricate Nepali architectural style with elaborate carvings on the bricks. Local lore has it that the temple marks the exact spot where Mother Earth is said to have taken Lady Sita into herself when she was asked to prove her chastity to Lord Ram.

Built-in 1528 by the Mughal emperor Babur to commemorate his victory over Ibrahim Lodhi, Babur’s Masjid is a must-visit. The walled mosque was home to a stunning garden too and at its peak, the mosque boasted of three octagonal towers and domes in addition to the central dome, but only one remains now. The resident well is still replenished by cold water, although the outer structure is in ruins. The magnificent Kalander Shah’s Tomb houses fountains, gardens and a serene tomb. Built by Ghiyas-ud-din, the Emperor of Delhi, the Dargah holds the memory of the Sufi sage Bo-Ali-Qalandar Shah who is famous for conjuring up a cow that ate a tiger. Emperor Alamgir also added to the construction and the Persian and Mughal influences are obvious in the architecture, adding to the charm. A mosque is also built in the vicinity that one can visit.

Miran Sahib’s tomb celebrates the mystic saint Miran. Syed Mohammed or Miran Sahib was a mystic saint who was hailed for his unique compositions and philanthropy and who rejected all the norms of caste and religious discrimination and took up the cause of the poor and downtrodden. When a King took a local Brahmin girl hostage, Miran Sahib is said to have paid an enormous sum of money to retrieve her. Interestingly, only his head is believed to have been buried at Karnal. After he was killed in battle, his body was buried at Muzaffarnagar in neighbouring Uttar Pradesh, while his head was brought to Karnal. The stunning mosque within the tomb complex is worth a visit too.

The Gurudwara Manji Sahib is associated with the first Sikh guru, Guru Nanak Dev Ji. It is famous for its celebrations during all Sikh festivals. The first Guru, Guru Nanak Dev Ji is believed to have visited Karnal during his travels in 1515 and stayed in a garden, where he sat and recited several hymns in praise of the Lord. Guru Harkrishan Sahib Ji, the Sixth Guru, is also said to have visited Karnal.

The Karnal Cantonment Church Tower is built in a Roman style. Formerly a part of St James Church, the major part of the area was dismantled as the cantonment was shifted before independence. The four-storeyed tower can be seen from km away and holds a spectacular ornamental cross on the top. Towering at the height of thirty-five metres, the Karnal Cantonment Church Tower is one of the most prominent landmarks of the region.

In My Hands Today…

Eats, Shoots & Leaves: The Zero Tolerance Approach to Punctuation – Lynne Truss

In Eats, Shoots & Leaves, former editor Lynne Truss, gravely concerned about our current grammatical state, boldly defends proper punctuation.

She proclaims, in her delightfully urbane, witty, and very English way, that it is time to look at our commas and semicolons and see them as the wonderful and necessary things they are. Using examples from literature, history, neighborhood signage, and her own imagination, Truss shows how meaning is shaped by commas and apostrophes, and the hilarious consequences of punctuation gone awry.

Featuring a foreword by Frank McCourt, and interspersed with a lively history of punctuation from the invention of the question mark in the time of Charlemagne to George Orwell shunning the semicolon, Eats, Shoots & Leaves makes a powerful case for the preservation of proper punctuation.

Travel Bucket List: India – Haryana Part 2

Faridabad
Haryana’s most populous city, Faridabad is a part of the Delhi NCR region, located about 41 km south of the capital and is one of the capital’s major satellite cities. The river Yamuna forms the eastern boundary with Uttar Pradesh and the city is one of India’s fastest-growing cities. Faridabad is the state’s major industrial hub with 50% of income tax collected in Haryana from Faridabad and Gurgaon. The city is famous for henna production from the agricultural sector, while tractors, motorcycles, switch gears, refrigerators, shoes, tyres and garments constitute its primary industrial products.

The city was founded in 1607 by Sheikh Farīd, treasurer to the Mughal emperor Jahangir, to protect the Grand Trunk Road between Delhi and Agra, and lies in the cultural region of Braj. A project for Pakistani refugee resettlement and light industrial development was initiated in the city in 1950. After India’s independence, Faridabad was initially a part of the Gurgaon district and later made an independent district. Close to Faridabad lies Tilpat, then known as Tilprastha, one of the five villages demanded by Pandavas to avert a disastrous war in the epic, the Mahabharata.

A lake fringed by the Aravalli hills, Badkhal Lake was a man-made embankment which has now dried up. Located in Badkhal village, the lake complex, spread over 40 acres, was constructed in 1969 and revived in 2015. CITM Lake is a beautiful water body formed by rainwater collected in the stone mines and a local favourite picnic spot. The tranquil location, the scenic natural landscape surrounding the body and the sparkling blue waters of the lake are a treat to nature lovers and photographers. Swimming is not advisable as the lake runs deep and has rugged stone underwater topography. Dhauj Lake is a naturally formed water body situated amidst the scenic Aravalli Hills and is famous for being one of the best sites for adventure sports in the region.

Surajkund is a 10th-century water reservoir believed to have been built by the Tomar King Surajpal. It is well known for its annual fair, the Surajkund International Crafts Mela which attracts millions of visitors, both domestically and internationally. The lake is surrounded by rock-cut steps and the embankment is constructed in a semi-circular fashion and doubles up as a picnic spot. The pond is surrounded by the ruins of an ancient sun temple, coupled with a beautiful garden and pool called the Siddha Kund. Historians also claim that King Surajpal, son of Anang Pal I, built the lake in 686 A.D. for his daughter, and it is probably after his name that the lake is called so. Another theory about the name of the reservoir is that the kund or lake is named after the Sun Temple that existed on the eastern side of the lake. During the rule of Feroz Shah Tughlaq, who belonged to the Tughlaq Dynasty, the reservoir was renovated, and the steps and terraces were rebuilt with stones in lime mortar. A cave-like structure was also built on the western side of the reservoir, close to the Sun Temple. Rainfall was captured here to create a repository, which was a hunting forest resort in the past, and now proves to be a great spectacle. Even though the reservoir dries up in the scorching summer heat before the onset of the monsoon rains, it gets filled up during monsoons and abounds in dancing peacocks.

The Anagpur Dam is located close to Anagpur village, also called Arangpur, about 2 km from Surajkund. This unique hydraulic engineering structure was built during the reign of King Anangpal of the Tomar dynasty in the 8th century. It is approachable by road from Delhi by the Delhi – Mathura road. The ruins of the fortifications found in Anangpur village establish by an inference that it was built by Anangpal as part of the Lal Kot that was developed as the first city of Delhi in the 8th century.

Also known as the Ballabgarh Fort, the Raja Nahar Singh Fort is located on the main road as one enters the main market of Ballabgarh. It was built by Raja Nahar Singh’s ancestor Raja Rao Balram who ascended the throne in 1739 and died in the war of Independence of 1857. The palace is known to have been constructed in parts until 1850 and today has been renovated into a beautiful palace having air-conditioned rooms, restaurants, bars and lounges, courtyards and gardens. The famous Kartik Cultural Fest here as well as weddings, musical nights and exhibitions are organised here regularly.

It is believed that Faridabad is named after Baba Farid, a popular Sufi saint and his tomb is a popular pilgrimage attraction with pilgrims coming from different regions here.

The Sri Shirdi Sai Baba Temple is dedicated to the saint, Sai baba and is spread over 3 acres of land. There is also a deity of Lord Sai Ram which is 5 feet tall made of pure white marble. The temple also houses the idols of Dwaraka Mayee and Dhuni

Also known as the Maharishi Parashar Tapo Bhumi, the Parson Temple is an ancient shrine dedicated to Maharishi Parashar. It is situated in the beautiful Aravalli Hills and is believed to be the location where the Maharishi performed penance and meditated. Located away from the bustling city, the temple has a tranquil vibe to help calm troubled souls.

Nuh
Located 40 km south of Gurgaon, Nuh lies on the National Highway 248 or NH 48. According to the epic, Mahabharata, the area was gifted by the eldest Pandava King Yudhishthira to their teacher Dronacharya and passed from the hands of the Maurya empire to invaders such as Parthian and Kushan, and later Yaudheya, after they expelled the Kushanas from the area between the Yamuna and Satluj. In 1156, it was conquered by King Visaladeva Chauhan of the Chauhan Dynasty and after the defeat of Prithviraj Chauhan in 1192, the area came under Qutb al-Din Aibak of the Delhi Sultanate who defeated and killed Prithviraj’s son Hemraj, who had invaded Mewat from Alwar. At the time of the invasion of Timur in 1398, Bahadur Nahar, formerly known as Sonpar Pal, was the prominent king of the area, who constructed the Kotla Bahadur Nahar fort near Kotla lake at the Kotla village of Nuh. Sonpar Pal converted to Islam in 1355 and was given a new name of Raja Nahar Khan by Sultan Firuz Shah Tughlaq and became the founder of the Khanzada Rajputs. After the fall of Tughlaq dynasty in 1398, Nahar Khan reconciled with Timur and in 1420, during the era of Nahar Khan’s grandson, Khanzada Feroz Khan, Mewat was attacked by Sultan Khizr Khan of Delhi Sayyid dynasty. In 1425, the great-grandsons of Bahadur Nahar, revolted against Dehli Sultanate but were defeated by Sultan Mubarak Shah

The Mughal emperor Aurangzeb tried to crush the revolting Khanzada chief and after the death of Aurangzeb, Bahadurgarh and Farrukhnagar in the north were under the Baloch Nawab. During the Maratha Empire, the area was conquered by French generals in the late 18th century and Nuh remained under the Bharatpur Jat Kings and their vassal relatives, one of whom was Nahar Singh. The town assumed importance at the time of Bahadur Singh of Ghasera because of the salt trade manufactured in neighbouring villages. To the west of the town is a masonry tank of red sandstone featuring a chhatri adorned with floral designs. The tomb of Sheikh Musa combines Muslim and Rajput forms of architecture and is about 2.5 km from the town. In 2018, five monuments were noted as state-protected monuments, including the Ghasera fort, the Chuhi Mal Ka Taalab, the Old Tehsil building in Nuh, the Kotla mosque, and a group of monuments at Meoli.

The ruined Ghasera Fort, a state-protected monument, lies at Ghasera village 14 km from Nuh city on the Nun-Sohna road. The Nalhar Pandava Reservoir and the Nalhshwar Mahadev Temple or the Nalhar Shiv temple are located 2 km from Nuh city within the U-shaped Nalhar valley surrounded by several picturesque peaks near Nalhar village in the foothills of Nalhar hills of the Aravalli range. It can be reached through a large ceremonial Hindu religious gate a short distance from the temple. There is also a natural reservoir at the base of a Kadamb tree higher up in the Nalhar hill, which can be reached by climbing 250 paved and iron stairsteps behind the Nalhar Shiva Temple. According to the popular oral tradition, the Pandavas stayed here, prayed to Lord Shiva and drank water from this reservoir during a visit in their 14 years long exile. The Nalhar hill also has amazing views. The temple was restored by Swami Gyan Giri and installed a natural lingam here which has the images of Aum, Shiva, Ganesha, Ganges, Janau and Naga.

The Kotla Fort and Tomb of Raja Nahar Khan in the Kotla Mosque is 6.5 km from Nuh city in the Kotla village. The square-shaped Kotla mosque, which dates to 1392-1400 rests on a plinth, with grey quartzite tomb and red carved sandstone jalis and has inscriptions on the ruined gateway. The tomb was notified as a state-protected monument in 2018.

The Nuh System of Lakes is a collection of several lakes lying in each other’s vicinity, and includes the permanent swamp of Khalilpur lake which gets flooded during rains and lies north-west of Nuh around the Khalilpur and Indari villages, the Chandaini lake which lies 10 km west of Khalilpur village, the Sangil-Ujina lake which is not a clearly defined basin of the lake as it carried only the overflow water in the rainy season from Khalilpur lake and other lakes, and the Kotla Dahar lake at the foothills of Aravalli Range which is the largest lake which is 5 km broad and 4 km long and lies across Nuh and Ferozpur Jhirka. With floral carvings and chattris or cenotaphs in redstone, the ancient tank of Chui Mai in Nallad is a natural reservoir and a sight to behold.

A fine blend of Muslim and Rajput style of architecture, Sheikh Musa is famous for its shaking minarets of the Tomb of Sheikh Musa. This man-made marvel is also known for its brilliant engineering techniques such as – if a person shakes one pyramid, the other person can feel the vibrations in the next one.Despite its ruined conditions due to lack of maintenance, these pyramids attract many visitors.

Close to Sheikh Musa is the Temple of Hathor which is believed to be of the Third dynasty of Tuthmosis of Egypt. Several Greek and demotic papyri were found by archaeologists in the temple complex.

Murthal
Murthal is located about 45 km from the national capital New Delhi, and 202 km southwest of Chandigarh, the state capital and is most well known for its parathas or Indian flatbreads. Situated on National Highway 1 connecting Delhi to Amritsar, Murthal is a large village that started life as a pit stop for truck drivers. Soon, its dhabas, or roadside restaurants gained popularity. Murthal has more than 50 dhabas and restaurants each famous for their special types of Parathas. Usually a year-round getaway, Murthal is most often visited during the evenings during summers. In the winter months, people visit early in the morning for parathas and tea.

Rohtak
Rohtak lies 70 km northwest of New Delhi and 250 km south of the state capital of Chandigarh on NH 9 and forms a part of the National Capital Region (NCR). Rohtak is the sixth most populous city in Haryana as per the 2011 census.

Clay mounds of coins discovered at Khokhrakot have thrown light on the process of casting coins in ancient India. The coin moulds of the later Yaudheyas of the 3rd or 4th century have been discovered in large numbers here, along with several clay seals of the same and subsequent dates. A Gupta terracotta plaque and head of later date have also been discovered. The town continued to flourish till the 10th century, as coins of King Samanta Deva of the Hindu Shahi dynasty of Kabul have been found here.

A centuries-old fort in present-day Qilla Mohallah was built by the Sheikhs of Yemen under Qazi Sultan Muhammad Surkh Zulqarni during the Ghauri Dynasty kings. The fort of Rohtak was besieged by Syed Khizer Khan in 1410 which could only succeed after a long seizure lasting six months. There have been many rumours regarding the name of the city and its origins with evidence suggesting that the old town is as old as the Indus Valley Civilization.

Asthal Bohar is a well-known Math located 7 kms from Rohtak in the eastern outskirt of the city and serves as a shelter to the followers of Guru Gorakh Nath, a fervent devotee of Lord Shiva and home to ancient discoveries, books and relics. The Durga Bhawan Mandir is a major religious shrine in Rohtak. The temple is grandly decorated during Navratri with lights and lamps. Gurudwara Bangla Sahib is dedicated to the Sikh Guru Teg Bahadur, the ninth Sikh Guru. The Gurudwara comes alive during Guru Teg Bahadur’s birth anniversary. The All Saints Church was constructed by the British in 1867. There are some tombstones, with dated inscriptions in the graveyard near the mini secretariat building of Rohtak. Previously it was said to be surrounded by a garden, but today only has a narrow strip of land. There are 180-year-old historic tombstones, here which is today in a deserted condition with a thick thorny vegetation growth covering the tombstones.

Rohtak has some of the most beautiful lakes like the Bhindawas Lake and the Tilyar Lake. Bhindawas lake is a man-made lake that has transformed itself into a bird sanctuary and is a favourite bird watching venue. Tilyar Lake is spread over 20 acres surrounded by water shrubs and forest. The lake attracts a vast array of birds along which attracts visitors. The Tilyar Lake complex houses a zoo in its vast compound which also includes a restaurant, mini train, a park for kids and retail shops. Visitors enjoy boating, angling and Kayaking while the zoo is the favourite part of the complex for children. The angling permit in the lake costs INR 200, and one can fish between 7 am and 6 pm during the summer months and between 8 am and 5 pm during the winter months. The entry fee to the zoo is INR 10 for adults and INR 5 for children and is open between 7 am and 6 pm during summer and between 8 am and 5 pm during winters.The Khaparwas Bird Sanctuary lies about 49 km south of Rohtak and about 60 km west of Gurgaon. The reserve covers 0.8 sq km and is an important part of the ecological corridor along the route of the Sahibi River which traverses from the Aravalli hills in Rajasthan to the Yamuna. It was declared a wildlife sanctuary on 30 January 1987. The Bhindawas Wildlife Sanctuary lies about 1.5 km from this sanctuary.

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Meham
Also spelt as Maham, Meham, is a small town about 33 km west of Rohtak well known for its archaeological sites and is one of the few sites that have preserved the existence of the Indus Valley Civilization which are in the form of large dunes about five km away on the city’s western fringe. In ancient times, the area’s name was Mahahattam and had about two big ponds and a dozen smaller ones that were were created by the Indus Valley Civilisation to trap runoff rainwater, which could last for a full year until the next rainfall replenished the supply. Archaeological excavations in the region have yielded well-documented finds, which have shed light on the pre-Harappan settlements, particularly at Madina and Farmana Khas. Maham suffered a setback during the invasion of the Ghaznavids under the command of Sultan Mahmud and later when his son Mas’ud I sacked the town. A few centuries later, during the reign of the Turkic Muslim ruler Firuz Shah Tughlaq, the town was resettled, and agricultural operations resumed.

During the Mughal rule, a garrison commander was posted at Maham who built a small fort known as Maham Fort which is now in complete ruins except for its ramparts. Colloquially known as Choro ki Baoli or the thieves’ stepwell and Jyani Chor ki Surang or Jayani the thief’s tunnel, Shahjahan ki Baoli was in 1559 by the Mughal courtier Saidu Kalal during the reign of Shah Jahan. It is an old baoli or stepwell made of lakhori bricks with 101 steps. Several rooms in the subterranean pavilion flank both sides of the well’s steps. Today, it lies in partial ruins and faces neglect. The structure itself contains three separate chambers to hold increasing amounts of water. As rainwater was collected, one level at a time would be filled.

Two mosques, the Jama Masjid and the Pirzada Masjid were built during the Mughal rule and are currently in ruins. Parts of them have been demolished by the villagers and used for the making, drying and storing of hand-made dried cow dung cakes or as fuel for cooking. The tombs of Shah Muhammad Ramzan Mahami and Shah Ghulam Hussain Mahami lie partially ruined today though the latter, that of a Muslim saint has been partially restored by locals and religious structures erected near it.

There is also a temple named Sheetalpuri Mandir, which is about 500 years old, in the centre of Maham. In Bharan, a village near Maham, an annual religious festival celebrating Goga Navmi is held in the Goga Ji temple with wrestling tournaments organised nearby. Five km from Maham, a large village named Behlba contains an old temple named Baba Khali Nath Temple.

In My Hands Today…

The Selfish Gene – Richard Dawkins

Inheriting the mantle of revolutionary biologist from Darwin, Watson, and Crick, Richard Dawkins forced an enormous change in the way we see ourselves and the world with the publication of The Selfish Gene. Suppose, instead of thinking about organisms using genes to reproduce themselves, as we had since Mendel’s work was rediscovered, we turn it around and imagine that “our” genes build and maintain us in order to make more genes. That simple reversal seems to answer many puzzlers which had stumped scientists for years, and we haven’t thought of evolution in the same way since.

Why are there miles and miles of “unused” DNA within each of our bodies? Why should a bee give up its own chance to reproduce to help raise her sisters and brothers? With a prophet’s clarity, Dawkins told us the answers from the perspective of molecules competing for limited space and resources to produce more of their own kind. Drawing fascinating examples from every field of biology, he paved the way for a serious re-evaluation of evolution. He also introduced the concept of self-reproducing ideas, or memes, which (seemingly) use humans exclusively for their propagation. If we are puppets, he says, at least we can try to understand our strings.

World Poetry Day

What comes to your mind when the word poetry is uttered? Boring, maybe? Or profound or even life-changing perhaps? It is that and much more. Poetry is literature that evokes a concentrated imaginative awareness of experience or a specific emotional response through language chosen and arranged for its meaning, sound, and rhythm. Poetry is probably as old as language and history, present wherever religion is present, possibly the primal and primary form of languages. Poetry is the other way of using language.

To celebrate one of celebrates one of humanity’s most treasured forms of cultural and linguistic expression and identity, World Poetry Day is celebrated annually on 21 March. Practised throughout history, in every culture and on every continent, poetry speaks to our common humanity and our shared values, transforming the simplest of poems into a powerful catalyst for dialogue and peace.

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21 March was adopted as World Poetry Day in 1999, in Paris, to support linguistic diversity through poetic expression and increase the opportunity for endangered languages to be heard. World Poetry Day is the occasion to honour poets, revive oral traditions of poetry recitals, promote the reading, writing and teaching of poetry, foster the convergence between poetry and other arts such as theatre, dance, music and painting, and raise the visibility of poetry in the media as well as give fresh recognition and impetus to national, regional and international poetry movements. It also supports linguistic diversity through poetic expression and offers endangered languages the opportunity to be heard within their communities.

It was generally celebrated in October, but in the latter part of the 20th century, the world community celebrated it on 15th October, the birthday of Virgil, the Roman epic poet and poet laureate under Augustus. The tradition to keep an October date for national or international poetry day celebrations still holds in many countries. In the United Kingdom, the day is celebrated on the first Thursday in October, but elsewhere a different October, or even sometimes a November date, is celebrated.

World Poetry Day is celebrated around the world in readings and ceremonies honouring poets of high achievement as well as in teaching the craft to aspiring writers. A day dedicated to poetry: an art form that has persisted for millennia and continues to enrich our understanding of the human condition to this day. With the rise of technology and smartphones, some might believe that poetry might be a dying art. However, this very day aims to get rid of these misconceptions. In many educational institutions, poetry competitions are held to encourage young students to write. With the help of other mediums such as theatre, poetry is promoted in different parts of the world. As poetry continues to bring people together across continents, let’s join in by reading some classic poetry in English and other languages and diving into the beauty of the language and word-play.