Travel Bucket List: India – Uttar Pradesh Part 5

Posted on August 27, 2021 by memoriesandsuch

Kanpur
About 150 km south of Naimisharanya lies the city of Kanpur, also known as the leather city of the world or the Manchester of the East. Known as Cawnpore during the British colonial rule, Kanpur, founded in 1803 was one of the most important commercial and military stations of British India. Nestled on the banks of the Ganges River, Kanpur is the ninth-largest urban economy in India and is famous for its colonial architecture, gardens, parks and fine quality leather products which are exported mainly to the west.

In 1207, Raja Kanh Deo of the Kanhpuria clan established the village of Kanhpur, which later came to be known as Kanpur. Other stories say Kanpur established by king Hindu Singh Chandel of Sachendi, who named it Kanhiyapur because it was said to be founded on the birthday of Lord Krishna. Later it was known as Kanhapur, Caunpoore and Cawnpore and many old texts suggest that it derived its name from the legendary character of Mahabharata, Karna, as it was also called Karnapur. In the 19th century, Cawnpore was an important British garrison with barracks for 7,000 soldiers. During the Indian Rebellion of 1857, 900 British men, women and children were besieged in the fortifications for 22 days by rebels under Nana Sahib Peshwa and surrendered on the agreement that they would get safe passage to the nearby Satti Chaura Ghat whereupon they would board barges and be allowed to go by river to Allahabad. Though there is no clear indication on what exactly happened at the Satti Chaura Ghat, and who fired the first shot, it is known that, soon afterwards, the departing British were shot at by the rebel sepoys and were either killed or captured. Although the East India Company later accused Nana Sahib of betrayal and murder of innocent people, no evidence has ever been found to prove that Nana Sahib had pre-planned or ordered the massacre. Some historians believe that the Satti Chaura Ghat massacre was the result of confusion, and not of any plan implemented by Nana Sahib and his associates. Many were killed and the remaining 200 British women and children were brought back to shore and sent to a building called the Bibighar or the ladies’ home, but were killed three days before the British entered the city. The dismembered bodies were thrown into a nearby deep well. When the British retook the city they committed a series of retaliations against the rebel sepoys and civilians caught in the area, including women, children and old men. The incident was known as the Cawnpore Massacre

Kanpur is a city where one finds a perfect blend of history, architecture, commerce and culture with authentic cuisines, traditional theatrical art and an amalgamation of two eras running parallelly. Having played a significant role in the first Indian war of Independence, Kanpur houses several historical tourists’ spots. Being situated on the banks of Ganges, it serves as a pilgrimage destination too. Apart from this, the IIT-Kanpur is a major educational institute of the region and one of the country’s best.

The JK Temple, also known as the Juggilal Kamplapat temple was constructed by the Singhania family in 1953 with an idol of the Hindu deity Radha Krishna is found at the centre of the temple which is surrounded in lush greenery and small lakes. The temple has beautiful stone carvings on the outside with conical roofs and the marble embellished Shri Radhakrishna Temple towards the eastern side displays the use of contrasting ancient and modern, as well as South Indian and North Indian methods of design. The temple features extensive pavilions called mandapas used for rituals, decorated high ceilings and surrounding ponds and garden areas with lush greenery. The temple consists of five major beautifully designed shrines of the deities Radha and Krishna, Lakshmi and Narayan, Ardhanarishwar, Narmadeshwar and Hanuman. The Radha and Krishna altar is the most prominent shrine with each adorned with colourful decorations and flower garlands, featuring intricate sculptures of the respective deities. The festival of Janmashtami is very popular when the temple remains open all day. The temple is open from 5 am to 12 noon and then from 4 to 10 pm and the aarti takes place at 7 pm daily.

The ISKCON temple dedicated to Lord Krishna is located about 4 km from Kanpur. The deities receive an annual Maha Abhishek, which is the traditional bathing of the holy idols, at the Royal Gold Leaf Shrine. In addition to customary rituals, there are three festivals that mark this significant custom. The avatars of Lord Krishna, Sri Sri Radha Madhav, Sri Sri Nitai Gaursundar and Sri Sri Janakai Janaki Vallabha Laxman Hanuman are decorated and preserved. The best time to visit the temple is in August and September for the Krishna Janmashtami and Radhashtami festivals respectively. The temple is open from 4:30 am to 1:30 pm and then from 4:30 to 8:30 pm.

The Jain Glass Temple or the is made out of glass and honours Lord Mahavira and the remaining 23 Jain Tirthankaras. There are various statues, attractive embellishments and delicate glass murals that highlight important details of Jain history and traditions. The temple also has a beautiful garden with prominent sculptures of Jain deities. The temple is fashioned entirely out of glass and this includes its walls, floors, pillars, panels, doors and ceilings, which showcase intricate carvings and decorative mirror-work. It also features life-size idols and paintings of Lord Mahavira and his disciples along with a seating area for prayer and reading ancient scriptures. The temple is open between 8 am and 12 noon and from 4 to 5 pm daily.

The Ram Janki Mandir is dedicated to Lord Hanuman and is a very sacred temple. The temple derives its name from Lord Ram and Goddess Janaki or Sita. The temple has a spectacular interior architecture with the walls comprising of beautiful stone carvings which wonderfully illustrates various scenes from the Ramayana. The huge idol of Hanuman is set in the middle of the temple around which devotees are allowed to chant the Hanuman Chalisa all day long. The temple is open between 6 am and 8 pm daily.

One of the oldest churches in India, the Kanpur Memorial Church is also known as the All Souls Cathedral Church and is well known for its architecture and historical importance. Established in 1857, the church is a memoir of the lost British troops of the Sepoy Mutiny. Designed by Walter Granville an architect of the East Bengal Railway, the red-bricked church is made in the Lombardic Gothic Style and has a memorial garden on its east corner. Separated from the main building, the garden has an intricately carved gothic screen. The centre of the church has a structure of an angel sculpted by Baron Carlo Marchettiwith crossed arms symbolising peace. The church is open between 9 am and 6 pm.

Moti Jheel is a water reservoir which translates to Pearl Lake. The reservoir also has boating facilities and was constructed during the British colonial rule. Originally constructed as a water supply reserve by the British, it was opened as a public area and today houses a green enclosure and a kids’ park. The reservoir and garden is divided into sections including the Baal Udyan or the Children’s Park, which is a Japanese-styled garden, requiring a small entry fee. The reservoir is open from 5 am to 9 pm and does not have an entry fee.

The Nana Rao Park is a public garden centrally located and famous for its lush greenery, particularly evergreen trees and brightly coloured flower beds. The garden boasts of water-fountains and life-size statues of historical figures from India’s freedom struggle including Tatya Tope, Rani Lakshmi Bai, Lala Lajpat Rai and Ajizan Bai. The park features a historic banyan tree called the Boodha Bargad, symbolising freedom from the English colonisers. There is also a public swimming pool, a fitness facility and a plant nursery. Named after Peshwa Nana Rao, the Nana Rao Park was initially known as the Memorial Well Garden before independence and the present garden was built to replace the Memorial Well Garden with public funds. The park has an entry fee of INR 20 and is open between 5 am and 8 pm daily.

Mahatma Gandhi Park is a lush garden located in the cantonment area and is one of the oldest and parks in the city. The park is open between 9 am and 9 pm daily and has an entry fee of INR 50.

The entrance to the Gautam Buddha Park leads into a white dome supported by four pillars with an idol of Gautam Buddha built in a traditional architectural style. The park also hosts a canal that is the perfect boating spot and the best time to experience the park between October to March. The park which has an entry fee of INR 100 per person is open between 9 am and 6 pm daily.

Phool Bagh is a gorgeous urban park also known as Ganesh Shankar Vidyarthi Udyan. Originally known as the Queen’s Park, the park is not only one of the oldest gardens in Kanpur but it also historical because it used to be the venue for political rallies and public meetings. The park also has the Kanpur Museum, a library and the Cawnpore Union Club on its premises. The park also has numerous statues of prominent freedom fighters including B.R Ambedkar, Mahatma Gandhi and Ganesh Shankar Vidyarthi and has a huge hoisted Indian flag, about 150 feet tall. The KEM hall, also known as the Ganesh Shankar Vidyarthi Udyan is bracketed by Phool Bagh on all four sides. The park is open from 10 am and 10 pm and has an entrance fee of INR 10.

Also known as Allen Forest Zoo, the Kanpur Zoological Park is located approximately 7 km from the city in the man-made Allen Forest and houses a picturesque landscape, lush vegetation, a beautiful lake, and several rare species of plants and animals. The zoo is home to many wildlife species and has prominent life-size models of dinosaurs, state-of-the-art enclosures, an international standard veterinary facility and attractive garden areas. Established in in 1971, the zoo was opened for public access in 1974. The zoo includes a botanical garden with several indigenous species of plants, a beautiful lake belonging to the Allen Forest, an aviary, a night house dedicated to nocturnal animals such as prickly porcupines and toddy cats and an aquarium for which there is an additional entry charge of INR 10. There is also a popular toy train which is a favourite with the little visitors. The zoo is open between 8 am to 5:30 pm and is open on all days except Mondays. Entrance fees for Indian adults is INR 30 and children between 6 and 9 years is INR 15. For foreign adults, it is INR 150 while children between the ages of 6 and 12 pay INR 75. On weekends and public holidays, Indian adults pay INR 40 while children pay INR 20 and foreigners pay the same fees.

Also known as the Luv Kush Barrage, the Ganges Barrage Kanpur is a 621 m bridge and dam across the Ganges. Constructed amidst abundant green surroundings, the bridge built in 1995 is a must-see on the highway.

Also known as the Kanpur Sangrahalay, the Kanpur Museum, the official museum of the city is located on the Pool Bagh grounds and exhibits artefacts and documents from the colonial period to the modern-day Kanpur. Formerly the King Edward Memorial Hall in memory of King Edward VII, it was renamed as the Gandhi Bhawan in 1999 and has an in-house public library. During the colonial rule,, European merchants came up with the idea of a European-styled hall for cultural activities, which was then renamed after King Edward VII after his death in 1910. Initially built as a European style ballroom, the Kanpur Museum comprises of a large hall type structure with the highly decorated ceiling and a clock tower. After being converted to an official museum, specific architectural changes have been made, with the purposes of restoration, preservation and facilitation of the display of artefacts. The Museum is largely comprised of the collections from the British colonial period such as handwritten books of freedom fighters, their poetry, pistols, dresses, shoes etc. Apart from this, the Kanpur Museum has some important documents and literature on trade and industrialisation. One of the most iconic collections of the Kanpur Museum is an old colonial period artillery gun. The museum is closed on Mondays and on other days, it is open from 10:30 am to 4:30 pm and has an entry fee of INR 15. Please note that photography inside the museum is highly prohibited with violations leading to penalties.

The Massacre Ghat is located on the banks of the Ganga near Jajmau and covers the northern part of Kanpur. Officially named as the Nana Rao Ghat, this place is also known as the Sati Chaura Ghat as it was the very site where women used to perform the terrifying ritual of Sati. The ghat was a significant maritime route between Kanpur and Allahabad. With the Satya Ashram Mandir built here in 1966, the Ghat used to facilitate bathing and also has a sandpit nearby. Iti s a local site for wresters and is where an annual wrestling competition held between July and August. The ghat witnessed a mass scale bloodshed on June 27th, 1857. With over 300 British families brutally killed, the then Sati Chaura Ghat came to be known as the Massacre Ghat.

The leather city of Kanpur, Jajmau is a densely populated industrial suburb famous for its leather production. Also known as Jajesmow, it is regarded as one of the oldest inhabited places in the city. Located on the banks of the Ganga, Jajmau is also a popular excavation site and is home to the Siddhnath and Sri Devi temples, the primary reason of its former name, Siddhapuri. A small town of about 30 localities, this region is also mentioned in the stories of Hindu myth. The origin of the name Jajmau is hard to trace, but popular opinion is that the town had significant links to the British colonial era. The 1957-58 excavations conducted by the Archaeological Survey of India unearthed some intriguing utensils and other lifestyle bits from the 600 to 1600 AD. These ancient relics now preserved and exhibited at the Kanpur Sangrahalaya. It was found that the site once housed pre-Mauryan residential sections and pottery remains as well and that the current town of Jajmau had a fort by the banks of the Ganges. Jinnaton ki Masjid is an ancient hilltop mosque which resembles the Taj Mahal. There is a sufi tomb from the 1300s close to Tannery Town belonging to Makhdoom Shah Ala-ul-Haq, a prominent Sufi saint of the time. Other popular tourist attractions include Habiba Masjid, Jajmau Tila, Siddhant Ghat and other mosques and the Lal Bangla is a huge market with stores spread across 6 sq km. Jajmau is home to several prominent leather industries which generate an annual revenue of over 15,000 crores or or more than 2 million USD annually and about 30% of the Indian leather export.

Lucknow
The capital of Uttar Pradesh, Lucknow is our next destination. About 94 km slightly northeast of Kanpur, Lucknow is the 14th most populous city and the 12th most populous urban agglomeration of India. A multicultural city that flourished as a North Indian cultural and artistic hub, and the seat of power of Nawabs in the 18th and 19th centuries, Lucknow sits on the northwestern shore of the Gomti River, Lucknow’s chief geographical feature, which meanders through the city and divides it into the Trans-Gomti and Cis-Gomti regions.

Historically, Lucknow was the capital of the Awadh region, controlled by the Delhi Sultanate and later the Mughal Empire and later transferred to the Nawabs of Awadh. In 1856, the British East India Company abolished local rule and took complete control of the city along with the rest of Awadh and, in 1857, transferred it to the British Raj.

Lucknow is the anglicised spelling of the local pronunciation Lakhnau. According to one legend, the city is named after Lakshman, the brother of Lord Rama from the Ramayana. The legend states that Lakshmana had a palace or an estate in the area, which was called Lakshmanapuri or Lakshmana’s city. The settlement came to be known as Lakhanpur or Lachhmanpur by the 11th century, and later, Lucknow. A similar theory states that the city was known as Lakshmanavati or fortunate after Lakshmana. The name changed to Lakhanavati, then Lakhnauti and finally Lakhnau. Yet another theory states that the city’s name is connected with Lakshmi, the Hindu goddess of wealth. Over time, the name changed to Laksmanauti, Laksmnaut, Lakhsnaut, Lakhsnau and, finally, Lakhnau.

Rumi Darwaza, the Mughal gateway built in the centre of the city divides Lucknow into Old Lucknow which is ancient, and more crowded, and the New Lucknow, which is urban and a planned city. Most of Old Lucknow is well-known for its bustling vibrant streets, authentic, mouth-watering kebab and biriyani outlets, lakhnavi chikan market, and the wholesale jewellery stores. New Lucknow, on the other hand, is structurally planned with wide roads, shopping malls and parks, with the most famous being the Ambedkar Park and the Gomti Riverfront Park.

One of the landmarks of the city, the Bara Imambara is known for its incredible maze, known as the Bhul Bhulaiya, located on the upper floor of the monument. It is said that there are 1024 ways to get inside the maze but only 2 to come out. The Imambra is also known as Asfi Imambara, after the name of the Nawab of Lucknow was instrumental in the construction. It is an important place of worship for muslims who come here every year to celebrate the religious festival of Muharram. Said to be the world’s largest structure that is unsupported by beams, Bara Imambara is considered a marvel of engineering and a fine specimen of Mughal architecture. The Imambara has a unique style of construction with no wood or metal used in its construction. In the centre hall is the grave of Nawab Asaf-Ud-Dowlah and his crown, said to be the largest vaulted chamber in the world. Built by the 4th nawab of Awadh, Nawab Asaf-Ud-Daula, construction for the mosque began in 1784 and took over 14 years to complete and was designed by the architect Hafiz Kifayat Ullah and Shahjahanabadi. During the 18th century, a devastating famine struck the Awadh kingdom. To provide work and food for his starving subjects, the nawab decided construct buildings which would provide them with employment, a food-for-work programme.

The architecture of the Bara Imambara is inspired from the Badshahi Mosque and is one of the last projects not incorporating the use of iron or any European elements. The central hall is said to be the largest arched hall in the world and the mosque has been constructed with no woodwork used in the entire structure, except the galleries. The blocks have been put together with the interlocking system of bricks, and the roof stands upright without any pillars to support it. The Imambara can be accessed through two large gateways, at one end of which lies the grand Asafi Mosque and on the other side is the large baori or well. Beyond the small entrance, to the left of the central hall, lies the intriguing labyrinth leading to the Bhul Bhulaiya which is the major attraction with a network of narrow passageways winding its way inside the upper floor of the monument’s structure, eventually leading to the rooftop. The views from the rooftop are is spectacular.

Visitors are expected to cover their heads and body before entering the Imambara and for those who need them, scarves are available at the main gate. Visitors also need to take off their shoes before entering the shrine and it is advised to carry a torch to explore the baori and the Bhul Bhulaiya. Locals also advise visitors to hire a guide to prevent getting lost in the maze. The Imambara is open from 6 am to 5 pm daily and entrance fees for Indians is INR 25 while foreigners need to pay INR 500, but this is inclusive of tickets to the Bara Imambara, Chota Imambara, Picture Gallery and the Shahi Hamam.

The Chhota Imambara, or the Imambara of Hussainabad, is a beautiful building in the old city west of Bara Imambara. Initially designed as a congregation hall for Shia Muslims built by Muhammad Ali Shah, the 3rd nawab of Awadh, in 1838, the Imambara was to serve as his own mausoleum as well as that of his mother, who is buried beside him. The Imambara consist of two halls and a Shehnasheen or a platform where the Zarih of Imam Husain is kept. The Zarih is the replica of that protective grill or structure which is kept on the grave of Imam Husain at Karbala, Iraq. The large green and white bordered hall of Azakhana is richly decorated with chandeliers and a good number of crystal glass lamp-stands. In fact, it was for this profuse decoration that the Imambara was referred by European visitors and writers as The Palace of Lights. A fusion of the Charbagh, Indo-Islamic and Persian architectural styles, the exterior has Quranic verses written in calligraphy on the walls and the interiors are designed with intricate details. With its baroque carvings and exquisite calligraphy, the Chota Imambara surpasses every other heritage structure in Lucknow. The interiors are decorated with delicate Arabic glass work and calligraphy, an ornately designed gilded golden dome, chandeliers specially brought from Belgium and colourful stuccos and gilt-edged mirrors. The five doorways of the Chhota Imambara emphasize the significance of the Panjetan or the holy five. It houses the tomb of Nawab Muhammad Ali Shah and other members of his family and is a smaller scale copy of the Taj Mahal. The Husainabad Mosque found inside the main monument is constructed on a raised platform with two grand minarets on the edge of the platform and decorated with floral designs and calligraphy. The watchtower, known as the Satkhanda is located just outside. Supposed to be seven storied, it only has four, since construction was abandoned when Ali Shah passed away. Non-Muslim visitors are not allowed inside the mosque located within the monument complex. The Chhota Imambara is open between 6 am and 5 pm and has an entrance fee of INR 25 for Indians and INR 300 for foreigners.

The Lucknow Residency was a residential complex which served as the headquarters for the British East India Company. But after the 1857 uprising, this became a refugee camp. The Residency is in ruins today with a British cemetery nearby that has the graves of those who died during the Lucknow siege and are protected by the Archaeological Survey of India. The Residency also hosts a light and sound show revisiting the 1857 revolt every evening. Built by Nawab Asaf-Ud-Daula in 1775, the British Residency was completed in 1800 by Nawab Saadat Ali Khan. After the revolt of 1857, the Residency was turned into the private residence of Oudh’s English commissioner. The Lucknow Residency has three levels which once housed a billiards room, offices and a library besides a basement. There is a huge cross at the entrance, in memory of Major General Sir John Inglis and his wife. Some of the highlights of the Residency include the Begum Kothi, the Mosque and the Canteen, which are all in ruins now. On one of the walls, there is a marble tablet with names of all soldiers who fought and died during the Indian revolt. The grounds of the residency also have an ancient banquet hall with some impressive carvings on its pillars and walls. Another section, known as the House of Dr Fayer used to be a hospital. The Lucknow Residency is open between 10 am and 5 pm and has an entrance fee of INR 5 per person.

From the 1800s and a remnant of colonial India, the Dilkusha Kothi was a former hunting lodge converted into a summer palace for royals. Initially, the residence of the English general, Major Gore Ouseley, this building was further revamped by Nawab Nasir-Ud-Din-Haider. The baroque-styled building was strongly impacted during the 1857 war of Indian Independence with the present structure a mere ruin with just a few towers and walls stnding today. Dilkudha Kothi is in the vicinity of a well-manicured garden, which makes it a good picnic spot. It is open between 8 am and 7 pm and has an entrance fee of INR 100 for foreigners and INR 5 for Indians.

An intricate fusion of Indian and Islamic architectural styles, the Shahi Baoli was formerly built as a reservoir and was constructed between 1784 and 1795 by Nawab Asif-Ud-Din Daula and designed by Kifayat-Ullah. Housing five storeys, the bottom three stories are regular storage spaces and the top two are occasional reserves. An ornate reservoir with some archways and exquisitely carved doorways, the Shahi Baoli is a sight to see. Open from 8 am to 8 pm, the entrance fee for Indians is INR 25 and that for foreigners, it is INR 300.

Chattar Manzil or popularly known as the Umbrella Palace was built by Nawab Ghazi Uddin Haider and later used by the ruler of Awadh and his wives. Located on the banks of the river Gomti, the building is a beautiful example of Nawabi and European architecture. Chattar Manzil has large underground rooms and a huge chhatri or umbrella adorning its dome on the octagonal towers. Formerly divided into the larger or bari umbrella dome and the smaller or chhoti one, Chattar Manzil has preserved the Bari Chattar Manzil, embellished in gold. The palace has five stories and houses two basement storeys and a terrace that initially had two telescopes during colonial times. First constructed in 1781 by Claude Martin, the French Major General of the time, it was then the location of the Central Drug Research Institute or CDRI. But after the CDRI moved out, there are talks to convert the structure into a museum. Chattar Manzil is open from 8 am to 6 pm and there are no entrance fees.

Built by Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, Safed Baradari is a white marbled palace originally constructed an Imambara or the Nawab’s Palace of Mourning. Located between the Butler Park and Gulab Vatika, Safed Baradari houses marble statues of the Anjuman founders Maharajas Man Singh and Balrampur’s Digvijay Singh. The Twelve Doored Palace has its main entrance on the eastern end which open up to octagonal pillars with stucco artworks and bright wall work. Initially called Qasr-ul-Aza, this structure later came to be used as a British petitionary court. After the siege of 1856, this was turned into a court for hearing petitions. It was then handed over to the Oudh Talaqdars in 1923 and renamed the British India Association of Oudh, which still holds this place. Today, it is used as a convention centre for weddings and other occasions.

Located in Qaiser Bagh, the Tomb of Saadat Ali Khan is a combined mausoleum of both Saadat Ali Khan and his wife Khursheed Zadi. Constructed by their son, this tomb is built in a fusion of Indian and Islamic architectural styles. With a central dome, the tomb gives way into a black and white interior housing the tombs. The tombs of Saadat Ali Khan and his other wives are found towards the southern end of the mausoleum. The mausoleum is in proximity to the famous Begum Hazrat Mahal Park and is open between 5 am and 8 pm every day.

Lucknow’s famous and iconic Rumi Darwaza is a striking gateway standing tall at sixty feet high and lies between the Bara Imambara and the Chota Imambara. The doorway is built in the ancient Awadhi style of architecture by Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula. It is also known as the Turkish Gate because it is modelled after the Sublime Porte or the Bab-i-Humayun door in Istabul, Turkey. Rumi refers to Rûm, the historical name used by the Islamic world to denote the region roughly corresponding to Anatolia, or the dominion of the former Eastern Roman Empire. Therefore, Rumi Darwaza in Hindi literally translates to Turkish Gate in English. Located in the heart of the old city, the gate is like a guardian angel that has seen the city rise and fall many times. The top of the Rumi Darwaza has a small octagonal place called a chhatri or umbrella which looks over both sides of the gate. A staircase leads up to it, which was either used as a sentry post or a place to light the gate with a big lantern at night, which is the more popular theory. The whole structure is decked with ornate patterns of flowers and leaves and other has four minarets at the four corners. It stretches out on both sides taking up almost the shape of a building rather than a gate.

Standing tall adjacent to the Rumi Darwaza, the Husainabad Clock Tower was built in 1881 and is the tallest clock tower in India. It is 67 meters high and displays a Victorian-Gothic style with a 14 feet long pendulum and a dial in the shape of a 12 petalled flower. It is said to have been established in memory of the arrival of Sir George Couper, the second Baronet. In 2010, the manually operated clock was upgraded to an electrical clock which struck for the first time in 27 years in end 2011. The four-faced clock is said to have been replicated based on the Big Ben and is surrounded by a local market. The clock tower is open between 11 am and 1 am daily.

Shaheed Smarak or the Martyrs’ Memorial is a white marbled pillar-like structure standing amidst the lush green lawns at Mukarimnagar, Qaiserbagh. Established in the memory of soldiers who lost their lives during the 1857 War of Independence, this pillar was built in the 1970s. There are also boating facilities in the nearby Gomti river and has stone stairs for seating within the premises. Open 24 hours a day, the best time however to visit is between 8 am and 4 pm.

Also known as the Dr Bhimrao Ambedkar Samajik Parivartan Prateek Sthal, the Ambedkar Memorial Park was built in the name of the architect of the constitution of India, Dr BR Ambedkar. This Park is also dedicated to many other freedom fighters including Jyotiba Phule, Birsa Munda, Kanshi Ram and Sree Narayana Guru. Founded in 1995, the park was renovated in 2002 and revamped in 20he 07 and a full-fledged public space only in 2008. The Ambedkar Park was soon renamed as Bhimrao Ambedkar Memorial in 2012. The red sandstone structure of the memorial houses the Ambedkar Stupa which is situated on a pedestal and is a massive bronze structure of Dr BR Ambedkar sitting on a chair and the base has an engraving which says “My struggle of life is my only message”. The stupa houses four opposite facing doorways with portraits of Dr Ambedkar inside. Spread across 2.5 acres, the museum has with two dome-like structures with each dome holding statues. The Pratibimb Sthal is a 107-acre expanse marking the entrance to the memorial and has sixty odd elephants parallel to each other as well as a huge central musical fountain towards the memorial’s entrance. The The gallery preserves various artefacts and documents relating to Dr Ambedkar about his life and his role in the freedom struggle. There are also several bronze-embellished wall work and other statues as well as a small souvenir shop selling books and other souvenirs. The Drashya Sthal is laid out on an 80 feet tall pyramidical structure with water flowing from its pinnacle. The park is open from 9 am to 7 pm

The Gautam Buddha Park is situated next to Hathi Park and was set up in 1980. A local favourite, the park has many swings and slides amongst lush green lawns and flowers. There is also a paddle boating available at a nominal price which is highly popular. The park is open from 7 am to 9 am and has an entrance fee of INR 5 and paddle boating costs are INR 10 with INR 25 per additional hour while the electric swing costs INR 10.

A very popular local park, Hathi Park has several swings and slides and recreational elephant structures which can be climbed upon. Open from 7 am to 8 pm daily, there is an entrance fee of INR 5 to get into the park.

Janeshwar Mishra Park is a newly constructed park, dedicated to the late Samajwadi Party politician, Janeshwar Mishra and was opened to the public in 2014. One of the biggest parks in Asia, the park has lush greenery dotted with floral gardens and also offers activities like boat rides and a children’s play area. There is an elaborate display of an MIG Aircraft and a few tanks at the park entrance as well as the Indian flag which is hoisted. The park is open from 5 am to 10 pm and has an entrance fee of INR 10.

Spread across 76 acres, the Dr Ram Manohar Lohiya Park is a popular park dedicated to the socialist leader and has four divisions of courtyards and separate entrances. Besides, it has green lawns sprinkled with seasonal flowers and shrubbery and is used for jogging and morning yoga classes. There is also a 100-meter acupressure walking and running track as well as a children’s play area. Alongside a fish and duck pond, the park also has a lake with a backdrop of Dr Lohiya’s statue. This lake also has four fountains spread across as well as an amphitheatre quite close to the clock tower. The park is open between 6 am and 10 pm and has an entrace fee of INR 5 while children below the age of 12 enter free.

Located in Qaiserbagh, the Begum Hazrat Mahal Park is a popular park which has swings and a children’s play area. The park houses a memorial structure of Begum Hazrat Mahal who played a vital role in the 1857 revolt. This marble building was initially commemorated at the Old Victoria Park of Hazratganj in 1962. The park also has a couple of fountains, a floral garden and stone walkways. The park is open from 8 am to 9 pm and has an entrance fee of INR 10.

Sikandar Bagh is an ancient styled mansion and a bracketing garden built in the 1800s and is known to be the last Mughal Garden in India. Built by Nawab Wajid Ali Khan, the last Nawab of Oudh, Sikandar Bagh became a Botanical Garden and home to the National Botanical Research Institute post-1947. The park also acted as a venue in the 1857 Battle of Independence and it was on the grounds of this garden that the ‘ugly blind hole’ was created on one of the brick walls. The collision was caused by the six open fires and 18 other guns. Housing over 2000 soldiers, Sikander Bagh was the site of the mass murder at the hands of the British Commander-in-Chief, Sir Colin Campbell. Sikandar Bagh is open from 9:30 am to 6 pm.

Built by Nawab Saadat Ali Khan, the Moti Mahal Palace is popularly known as the Pearl Palace. Located on the banks of river Gomti, the palace is constructed next to Mubarak Manzil and Shah Manzil. A former residence of the Nawabs of Lucknow, Moti Mahal was initially a part of the Qaisar Bagh complex. Today, the surrounding gardens are used to hold conferences, parties and other such special occasions. Open from 11 am to 11 pm, entrance is free.

Firangi Mahal is a Mughal building built in the 11th century and between the 1550s and 1690s it was turned into an Islamic learning institution. The Alam Hafiz family is said to have been the first recorded resident of the place in 1559. It later became the residence of a French businessman, Mr Neil. The palace also played an important role during the Khilafat movement as it served as accommodation for important leaders of the movement.

Constructed between 1848-1850, under the rule of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, Kaiserbagh Palace is an excellent example of Mughal architecture located when one goes from the eastern end of the Chattar Manzil towards the Tarawali Kothi. It houses a white-marbled central Baradari and is open from 8 am to 8 pm with no entrance fee.

The Shah Najaf Imambara is a dome-shaped 19th century congregration hall housing the graves of Nawab Ghazi-uddin Haider and his three wives. With splendid Mughal architecture amid a beautiful front floral yard, the Imambara is an all-white marble structure housing a large dome. Visitors must remove footwear and cover their heads while entering the mosque. Established in honour of the Caliph, Hazrat Ali, the Shah Najaf Imambara is believed to be a mirrored construction of the Iraqi tomb of Najaf-e-Ashraf. The mosque is open from 8 am to 5 pm.

The Jama Masjid was built by Nawab Mohammad Ali Shah Bahadur in 1423 on an elevated square platform to over shadow the grand Jama Masjid in Delhi. The Hindu-Jain fusion architecture imbibed with Islamic features boasts of a fancy decor with lime plaster, adorned with stucco motifs and has high arched ceilings and sturdy pillars. An active mosque today, non-muslims are not allowed inside. It is open from 5 am and 9 pm daily and photography fees are INR 300.

Situated in the Barabanki district, about 25 kms from Lucknow, Dewa or Dewa Sharif is a small town renowned for the shrine of Haji Waris Ali Shah with a mosque and a khankah within the premises. Born in the 19th century, Haji Waris Ali Shah belonged to the family of Hussaini Syeds with Waris Ali Shah the founder of the Warsi order of Sufism who undertook the pilgrimage to Mecca several times in his lifetime and welcomed followers of all faiths and religions into his commune. After his death, a tomb was set up, visited by devotees from all over the world. The Urs festival at Dewa Sharif is a huge annual affair with celebrations over 10 days in the month of October-November when the shrine is decorated in tinsel and fairy lights. A grand procession is carried out and the entertainment includes an all-India Mushaira or poetry competition and music performances. There is also an elaborate display of fireworks. Unique to the Dewa Shareef shrine is that it celebrates the Hindu festival of Holi with great pomp and show with people playing and colouring each other. The best time to visit the shrine is on a full moon day.

The Chandrika Devi Temple is dedicated to Goddess Chandi. Adorning three heads, Chandrika Devi is a said to be a combined manifestation of the Goddesses Kali, Lakshmi and Saraswati. There is also a pond in the premises that has a huge seated statue of Lord Shiva. Said to be a 12-century shrine, the Chandrika Devi Temple is believed to have been part of the era of the Ramayana. Hindu mythology has it that Goddess Chandi once safeguarded Prince Chandraketu, the older brother of Lord Lakshmana. As he was riding alongside river Gomti with his horse, Ashhwamegh, he decided to halt for the night as it got quite dark. It was then that he prayed to Chandrika Devi to protect him through the night who delivered security through a flood of moonlight. Devotees later constructed a shrine at the same place.

The 1000-year olf Mankameshwar Mandir is situated on the banks of river Yamuna at Saraswati Ghat in Lucknow. A revered Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Shiva this temple is the first to have had a woman priest. Mondays are considered special and hence the busiest. According to myth, the site of the present Mankameshwar Mandir was a holy site visited by Lord Lakshman after leaving Goddess Sita in exile and is the same place that King Navdhanu constructed this temple many years later. The temple was completely ruined during the 1100s by conquerors from Yemen and reconstructed about five centuries ago by the Naga monks. The temple is open between 5 am and 12 noon and then again between 4 to 9 pm.

A monastery dedicated to Sri Ramakrishna Praramahamsa, the Ramakrishna Math has a shrine adjacent to the institute. Built completely of marble, the Math also holds various idols of Ramakrishna, Mother Sarada Devi and Swami Vivekananda. The first Math was established in 1925 with the present temple the new version constructed close to the older site. Established in 1987, the white structure of the new monastery is a combination of Hindu and Islamic architectural features. It also represents adapted designs from the Indian dynasties of the time. In addition to the red-cemented significant relics from Hindu mythology, the current temple of the Ramakrishna Math hosts an elegant marble-finished entryway. Numerous mythical creatures and characters in stone adorn the parallels of the entrance. The sanctum sanctorum of the temple, roofed with nine white domes is secured with an ornately carved gate. However, this part of the temple emits a Rajasthani aura of architecture alongside the typical Mughal style. The prayer hall here hones an elaborately decorated white and brown floor, while siting a splendid chandelier with over 250 lights. The math is open from 8:30 am to 12 noon and then between 4:30 to 7:30 pm.

Named after the Marine Drive in Mumbai, Lucknow’s Marine Drive is a picturesque strip of road adjacent to the River Gomti popular among the young as a hangout place. With benches to sit and relax, it is used a jogging and cycling track.

A colonial landmark the Constantia or La Martiniere School was built in 1845 and houses the tomb of Claude Martin, the French Major-General at the time. The European styled building also has a library, a chapel and a well-preserved and beautiful lobby room. Having separate schools for boys and girls, it is said that the 1857 batch is said to have played an important part in the revolt. With architectural highlights such as carved arches and decorated balconies, this heritage building continues to be one of the top educational institutes in town.

Situated on the banks of the River Gomti, the Indira Gandhi Planetarium is popularly known as the Taramandal Show. The highlights of the planetarium are the science and astronomy shows and 3D models and exhibitions. One can also see models of various Indian satellites and read about about renowned Indian scientists as well as take a virtual trip to space through the 3D space shows. Designed and modelled in the shape of Saturn with five rings around its central body, the building boasts of striking architecture signifying the solar system. A water pool surrounds the building. The planetarium is open from 11 am until 5 pm and has shows at 1 pm, 2:30 pm, 4 pm and 5 pm with an extra show at 6 pm during the summer holidays. On weekends, the first show is in English while the rest are in Hindi. Bookings for the shows can be done between 11 am and 5 pm. Entrance fees for adults is INR 25 and there is no entry fee for children below the age of three. The planetarium is closed on Mondays

Located in Qaiserbagh, the 1857 Memorial Museum is dedicated to the First War of Independence of 1857. Containing relics and antiques, the museum also has visual displays of the war. It also has many photographs, maps, manuscripts and paintings depicting the struggle. There is also an antique collection of war swords, rifles, shields, terracotta items, crockery, canons, medals and even badges from the 1800s. Constructed by the British in 1774, the Lucknow Residency was completed by Nawab Sadat Ali Khan in 1800, but was massively damaged during the 1857 war. Today, the Archaeological Survey of India manages the museum and have organised tours. The museum is open from 10 am to 5 pm and Indian visitors need to pay INR 15 while foreign visitors will pay INR 200.

The Nawab Wajid Ali Shah Zoological Garden, popularly known as the Lucknow Zoo was originally known as The Prince of Wales Zoological Gardens and is home to mammals, birds and reptiles, the most famous ones being the royal Bengal tiger, white Bengal tiger, Himalayan black bear and Asiatic lion. Established in 1921 by Nawab Nasiruddin Haider, this 71.6-acre zoo was established to celebrate the visit of the Prince of Wales to Lucknow. The zoo has a toy train which rides through the zoo. The Uttar Pradesh State Museum is an interesting attraction within the zoo displays Awadh artefacts like sculpture, bronzes, paintings, natural history & anthropological specimens, coins, textiles and decorative arts, along with excavations related to the life of Lord Buddha. There is also an Egyptian mummy and wooden sarcophagus, an inscribed wine jar bearing the name of Aurangzeb Alamgir, a jade Chamakali with the name Jahangir and the date 1036 AD, a 16th-century painting of a scene from the Kalpasutra. A replica from colonial times, a vintage train abandoned in the Laxmipur forest in 1924 is also displayed. Inaugurated in 2018, the Butterfly Park is relatively a newer addition to the zoo. With over 28 species alongside a beautiful park, this park also offers educational information about these colourful creatures. However, the butterfly park would need an extra entry fee. The Nature Interpretation Centre houses informative pieces from the animal mapping system to well-preserved ostrich, emu and macaw eggs. There are also preserved pugmarks of different rare and endangered animals including different tiger species. The Lucknow Zoo is the only one of the only two zoos in India to exhibit an orangutan, with the other being the Kanpur Zoo. Entry tickets for those above 12 are INR 60 and INR 54, if purchased online, which includes an entry ticket as well as tickets to the Aquarium House, Nocturnal House and Nature Interpretation Centre. For a package which includes a train ride and a battery operated vehicle, it is INR 100 or INR 90 if purchased online. For those between 5 and 12, the first entry fee is INR 30 or 27 if purchased online and INR 50 or INR $5 if purchased online for the second option. Entry for those below 5 is free. A video camera of INR 50 and a morning walk pass of INR 100 for a monthly or INR 500 for a yearly option is also available. The Zoo is open between 8:30 to 5:30 pm between February and April, between 8 am to 6 pm between May and July, between 8:30 to 5:30 pm in August, September and October and from 8:30 am to 5 pm between November to January. The zoo is closed on Mondays.

Also known as Shahid Chandra Shekhar Azad Bird Sanctuary, the Nawabganj Bird Sanctuary is located in Unnao near Lucknow. Surrounded by dense forests, this bird sanctuary is home to over 250 species birds and is also a great place to spot other wildlife. The sanctuary also houses a deer park and has an interpretation centre. The sanctuary can be visited around the year; however, the best time is between October to March as there are several species of birds who migrate from colder regions and settle at the bird sanctuary. There are two walking trails that take you through the sanctuary amidst the forest cover and lush greenery. There is a pond in the complex perfect for leisurely strolls or just enjoying some quiet time. The sanctuary is open between 9 am to 5 pm and has an entry fee of INR 30 for Indians and INR 350 for foreigners. There is also a camera fee of INR 500.

In the next part, we will explore some of the most ancient cities in the world as well as some of the holiest.

In My Hands Today…

Posted on August 26, 2021 by memoriesandsuch

Goodbye, Sweet Girl: A Story of Domestic Violence and Survival – Kelly Sundberg

In this brave and beautiful memoir, written with the raw honesty and devastating openness of The Glass Castle and The Liar’s Club, a woman chronicles how her marriage devolved from a love story into a shocking tale of abuse—examining the tenderness and violence entwined in the relationship, why she endured years of physical and emotional pain, and how she eventually broke free.

“You made me hit you in the face,” he said mournfully. “Now everyone is going to know.” “I know,” I said. “I’m sorry.”

Kelly Sundberg’s husband, Caleb, was a funny, warm, supportive man and a wonderful father to their little boy Reed. He was also vengeful and violent. But Sundberg did not know that when she fell in love, and for years told herself he would get better. It took a decade for her to ultimately accept that the partnership she desired could not work with such a broken man. In her remarkable book, she offers an intimate record of the joys and terrors that accompanied her long, difficult awakening, and presents a haunting, heartbreaking glimpse into why women remain too long in dangerous relationships.

To understand herself and her violent marriage, Sundberg looks to her childhood in Salmon, a small, isolated mountain community known as the most redneck town in Idaho. Like her marriage, Salmon is a place of deep contradictions, where Mormon ranchers and hippie back-to-landers live side-by-side; a place of magical beauty riven by secret brutality; a place that takes pride in its individualism and rugged self-sufficiency, yet is beholden to church and communal standards at all costs.

Travel Bucket List: India – Uttar Pradesh Part 4

Posted on August 25, 2021 by memoriesandsuch

Aligarh
Moving on from Garhmukteshwar, we travel 114 km south to Aligarh, famous for its educational institutions. Formerly known as Allygurh and Kol, Aligarh is the 53rd most populous city in India. The recorded history of Aligarh begins with the establishment of the Aligarh Fort in the 16th century. Before the 18th century, Aligarh was known as Kol and the history of the town up until the 12th century is obscure. It is said to have been founded by the Dor Rajputs in 372 AD. Sometime before the Muslim conquest, Kol was held by the Dor Rajputs. Statues of Buddha and other Buddhist remains have been found in excavations where the citadel of Kol stood, indicating a Buddhist influence. Hindu remains indicate that the citadel probably had a Hindu temple after the Buddhist temple. Aligarh Fort, also called Aligarh Qila, as it stands today, was built by French engineers under the control of French officers Benoît de Boigne and Perron. The Battle of Aligarh was fought on 1 September 1803 during the Second Anglo-Maratha War which took place between 1803 to 1805 at Aligarh Fort. Aligarh is famous as an educational hub, especially for the Aligarh Muslim University, which was founded here as Muhammadan Anglo-Oriental College in 1875 by Sir Syed Ahmad Khan, initiating the Aligarh Movement. The Maulana Azad Library, one of the largest libraries in India, is also housed in Aligarh. Other notable spots are the Kheereshwar Temple, Teerthdham Mangalaayatan, Sir Syed Academy Museum, Chacha Nehru Gyan Pushp, Hakim Karam Hussain Museum, Baba Barchi Bahadur Dargah and the Shekha Lake that one must visit if in Aligarh.

The Jama Masjid is the oldest historical monument at the highest point of the town. Described as Asia’s highest gold mosque, its dome and minarets are made of pure gold and is the first mosque in India housing tombs of the martyrs, also known as Ganj-e-Shaheedan or Martyrs’ colony. The founder of Aligarh Muslim University, Sir Syed Ahmed Khan, started building the Jama Masjid within the foreground of the university in 1879 and the masjid commemorated in January 1915. The mosque has a capacity fo 5000 people and is known for its Islamic architecture with three domes flanked with minarets on either of their sides with its architectural style borrowed from Shah Jahan’s Jama Masjid in Delhi. The Iwan or a gateway covered on three sides with one side open for entrance is ornamented with white marbles having psalms from the Quran engraved upon it. The many doors have colourful glasses decorating them, reflecting the light of the sun during the day. The Mezzo Quinto arch provides an entry into the doorway with intricate wooden work. The ceilings are a contrast of dark and light colour combination with latticed windows. Many locals attend the first namaz or prayer at 5 am. At night, the exterior of the mosque is beautiful with lights. There are inscribed psalms from the Quran on marble in calligraphy and gold floral patterns decorating the walls. The mosque is open from 5 am to 8 pm daily.

The Khereshwar Temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and is known its tiny Shivalinga, which is so small that it is popularly known as the Invisible Shivalinga. Other highlights of the temple include metallic mural engraved ceiling and brass idols of other Hindu deities. Believed to be over thousands of years old, the Khereshwar Temple witnesses numerous devotees visiting, especially on the occasion of Maha Shivratri. There is no clear evidence about the origins of the temple, with some believing the temple was erected during the Mughal era by Swami Haridas, the guru of Tansen. Another popular belief holds that the temple was built by Raja Sati Prasad in memory of his wife and some temple priests claim the Khereshwar temple to have existed since the Dvapara Yuga and that there is a mention of the temple in the Vedas as well. The temple is open from 5 am to 11:45 pm daily.

Also known as Aligarh Qila, Aligarh Fort is one of India’s strongest forts. Popularly called as Bonay Chor ka Kila or the Dwarf Thief’s Fort, it represents historic Islamic influences through its exquisite architecture and intricate symbolic carvings, though most of it is in ruins now. The fort features distinguishing minarets, bastions, terraces, and a grand arched entrance. There is a garden, supervised by the Botanical Department of the Aligarh Muslim University, and houses a diverse variety of vibrant flowers, trees and animal species such as delicate koel birds, beautiful peacocks and ferrets among others. Aligarh Fort was established by Muhammad, son of the Governor of Kol during the Lodi Dynasty in 1524. The fort was consequently redeveloped and renovated on multiple occasions such as by French officers under the guidance of Boigne and Perron, as well as by Sabit Khan during his reign as governor. The fort gained great significance when Madhavrao I Scindia claimed it as a spot for organising his army in 1759. Lord Gerard, the commander of the British army then took control of the fort during the Battle of Ally Ghur. Situated on a steep hillock, the polygon shaped structure of the fort is supported by angled bastain and surrounded by deep trenches. Aligarh Fort also features distinct minarets, beautiful gardens, extensive terraces, and a concealed basement, all of which are characteristic of fascinating Islamic architectural influence. The fort is open from 8 am to 6 pm daily.

Naqvi Park is a popular park also known as Rajkeey Udhhan Jawahar Park and is well-known for its lush green surroundings and fountains. It also houses walking paths and playgrounds as well as a plant nursery open for sale. The park is open from 5:15 to 10 am and then between 2 to 6:15 pm and has an entry fee of INR 5 for a single visit and INR 60 for a monthly pass.

The Sir Syed House Museum, located in the Aligarh Muslim University, is a well-known art gallery. Previously the home of Sir Syed Ahmed Khan, the art gallery was formed to increase awareness about Sir Syed’s contribution to educational and social betterment. The Sir Syed House Museum exhibits the his personal life through his belongings along with showcasing the history of AMU through pictures and written records. The museum is divided into three galleries. The first part displays the life of Sir Syed and his comrades, the second gallery showcases detailed stages of development of Aligarh Muslim University and the third gallery presents the pictures of AMU’s campus, and it’s Vice Chancellors. The gallery also exhibits the photos of the university’s events and achievements which took place over the years. The museum is open from 8 am to 5 pm and does not have any entrance fees.

Firozabad
Our next destination is Firozabad, a city about 112 km southeast of Aligarh and about 47 km east of Agra. It is the centre of India’s glassmaking industry and is known for the quality of the bangles and also glasswares produced there. Situated in the northern end of the Deccaan plateau, the Yamuna river covers its southern border.

The city is named after Firoz Shah Mansab Dar, a general in Emperor Akbar’s army who was sent to make the city a cantonment to collect taxes and whose tomb is still present today. More than half of the workforce is engaged in manufacturing activities. The city lies in the cultural region of Braj and was a part of the Surasena Mahajanapada during the Vedic Age and subsequently ruled by the bigger kingdoms including the Mauryas, Guptas, Scythians, Kushans, Indo-greeks, Harsha before falling into the hands of local Rajput and Jat rulers. The modern city of Firozabad was founded in 1566, when Raja Todar Mal was returning from a pilgrimage to Gaya and stopped at the village of Asafabad, southeast of modern Firozabad. The villagers insulted him, and when the emperor Akbar heard of this, he sent the eunuch Firoz Khwaja to demolish the town and build a new one. The city was built on lands belonging to several neighbouring villages and was named Firozabad. Firoz Khwaja’s tomb, built of white marble, lies on the road to Agra. Firozabad was bestowed to Nawab Sadulla Khan as fiefdom in the regime of Emperor Shahjahan, followed by the Jats who ruled for 30 years and in the end of the 18th century, it was ruled by Himmat Bahadur with co-operation from the Marathas, before being taken over by the British.

Also known as the Shri Digambar Jain Atishaya Kshetra Marsalganj, the Marsalganj Jain Temple is a beautifully decorated place of worship for followers of the Jain religion. This temple, established by the revered Baba Rishabhdas, is dedicated to Bhagwan Rishabhdeo, a Jain deity. A major Jain temple built by Seth Chhadamilal, the Lord Bahubali Jain Temple is well-renowned for its life-like sculpture of Lord Bahubali, which is 45 feet tall and fashioned entirely out of granite. The Kalan Mosque was constructed by Khan-i-Jahan Junan Shah, the prime minister of Firuz Tughlaq between 1368 and 1387 and is also referred to as Kali Masjid. The mosque served as a haven for the people of the city during times of attack on the city. The Kotla Fort features grand palaces, mosques, enchanting gardens, and madrasas. This fort was constructed to solve water issues in the region, by Sultan Feroz Shah Tughlaq. With its grand Mughal-influenced architecture, the structure showcases the rule of the powerful Tughlaqabad dynasty.

Jhansi
280 km south of Firozabad lies the historic town of Jhansi which lies in in the Bundelkhand region on the banks of the Pahuj and Pahunch rivers, in the extreme south of Uttar Pradesh, close to its border with Madhya Pradesh and is called the Gateway to Bundelkhand. The town is famous for the Indian freedom fighter queen, Rani Laxi Bai who is also known as Jhansi ki Rani. During ancient times, Jhansi was a stronghold of the Chandela Rajput kings and was known as Balwant Nagar. However, it lost importance in the 11th century after the decline of the Chandela dynasty, but rose in prominence in the 17th century when Raja Bir Singh Deo of Orchha State constructed the Jhansi Fort in 1613. Jhansi came under the Maratha Empire in 1729 when Maharaja Chattrasal offered Jhansi and some other parts of his state to the Maratha Peshwa Baji Rao I as a mark of gratitude for having helped him in defeating the Nawab of Farrukhabad, Muhammad Khan Bangash who had attacked Maharaja Chattrasal’s kingdom. In the 18th century, the town of Jhansi served as the capital of a Maratha province and later the Princely State of Jhansi from 1804 till 1858, when the territory became a part of British India. A famous story related to the origin of Jhansi says that the Raja of Orchha and Jaitpur were two friends sitting on a hilltop. The Raja of Orchha asked his friend whether he could recognise the new fort on Bangara Hill. While answering the question, the Jaitpur Raja said that he could see it Jhainsi, meaning indistinctly which then became corrupted to Jhansi.

The Rani Mahal or the Queen’s Palace, is the former residence of Rani Lakshmi Bai. Built in the 18th century, a large part was destroyed during the Indian Rebellion, but was later renovated into a museum. The ancient palace is built with a quadrangular courtyard with a little well on one side and on a decorative fountain the other. It is a two-storey building with a flat roof, and six beautiful halls, each of it accompanied by a parallel corridor. The arches on the aisle have a peacock and floral patterns and is filled with artefacts from the 9th century and Rani Laxi Bai’s life, including the famous Darbar Hall. On the ground floor, there are several stone sculptures from the early medieval period and the most popular halls are the Darbar Hall on the second floor with beautiful wall paintings and artistic carvings. The palace was built by Raghunath II of the Nawalkar family in the 18th century. Photography is strictly prohibited inside the palace which is open from 7 am to 5:30 pm and has an entry fee of INR 25.

Jhansi Fort is located at the top of Bagira, and is a 17th century architectural monument that has undergone royal construction followed by massive destruction in the first War of Independence against the British East India Company. Within the four-walls lie monuments like Baradari, the Kal Kothari or dungeon, Ganesha and Shiva temples and a museum that showcases remnants of the Chandela dynasty including weaponry, clothes and paintings. There is also a war memorial paying tribute to martyrs, and the Rani Lakshmibai Park built in the memory of her role in the freedom struggle. The fort stands on 15 acres of land and is 312 m long and 225 meters wide with granite walls that are 16 to 20 feet thick and has ten entrances.

Baradari pays homage to Raja Gangadhar Rao’s brother Raghunath Rao with the roof built with stucco in such a way that it forms a pond with water sprinkles over it. The Execution Tower was used to execute prisoners, and the Jumping Spot is where Rani Laxmibai jumped over the wall to climb on her horse Badal to escape. The Kadak Bijli cannon that was used by the queen in the revolt of 1857 and decorates the entrance. The state government organises the Jhansi Mahotsav in February or March, a week-long festival with dance recitals, singing and drama. There are many attractions around the fort including the Panchkuian temple which is dedicated to Goddess Lakshmi, the Goddess of Wealth, the City Church, Rani Mahal and the Government Museum. The fort is open between 8 am and 6 pm and entrance fees are INR 5 for Indians while foreigners need to pay INR 200.

Located about 16 km southeast of Jhansi across the border in Madhya Pradesh is the town of Orchha with a historical complex known as the Orchha Fort Complex. Built in 1501 by Raja Rudra Pratap Singh of the Bundela dynasty, it is built in a fusion of Rajput and Mughal architecture, decorated with latticed windows, projected platforms and balconies and mirrors on ceilings. The Orchha Fort complex houses several monuments such as the Raja Mahal, Sheesh Mahal, Rai Praveen Mahal and also gardens such as the Phool Bagh. The Sheesh Mahal has been converted into a hotel and the Phool Bagh is elegantly decorated with flowers and a line of fountains with an archaic cooling system to retreat to in summers. Guides are available, but there are no audio guides. The King’s Palace, Raja Mahal or Raja Mandir was where the royal families resided till 1783. While the exterior adheres to simplicity, the interior is filled with paintings and murals with religious themes, mythological creatures, high ceilings and ceilings and walls with interspersed mirrors. A section of the fort was converted into a Rama Raja temple and is the only temple where Raja Rama, even though deified to being a God, is worshipped as a king. The The four-storied Jahangir Mahal was completed in 1605 and built as a gesture of gratitude towards the Mughal Emperor Jahangir upon his visit to Orchha in a Mogul and Rajput fusion style. The symmetrically square shape is ornamented with eight domes, latticed windows, projected balconies and a steep stairway that provides a magnificent view of the Betwa River flowing by. The entrance is mounted with turquoise tiles and has an artistic gateway decorated in a traditional style. The palace has a small archaeological museum housing artefacts from the 16th century. The Rai Praveen Mahal was built in 1618 by Raja Indrajeet for his escort, Rai Praveen, a poet, musician and a beautiful woman. Sheesh Mahal lies between Jahangir Mahal and Raja Mahal and is a hotel today. Entrane fee is INR 10 for Indians and INR 250 for foreigners and camera charges is INR 25 for a camera and INR 200 for video camera. The entrance fee for Jahangir Mahal is INR 10 for Indians and INR 30 for foreign citizens. There is a light and sound show which in the summer is between 7:45 to 8:30 pm in English and 8:45 to 9:45 pm in Hindi. In winters, the show is between 6:30 to 7:30 pm in English and from 7:45 to 8:45 pm in Hindi. The entry fee is INR 100 for adults and INR 50 for children. The fort is open from 9 am to to 6 pm every day.

The Cenotaph of Raja Gangadhar Rao, the Raja of Jhansi, was built after his death by his queen, Rani Lakshmibai in 1853. The Raja Gangadhar Rao ki Chhatri is located near Mahalakshmi temple beside the Lakshmi Lake and is surrounded by a lush green garden, an adjacent pond and rich architectural designs. Legend has it that Maharani Lakshmibai used to visit the Lakshmi temple every day. The structure stands in the middle with high walls carved hollow on all four sides with 18th-century architectural designs. The Chhatri is open between 9 am and 6 pm and has an entrance fee of INR 200.

Panchatantra Park is an animal-themed park for children based on the Panchatantra book by Vishnu Sharma. Apart from several animal-themed slides for the children, this park also has a jogging track for adults. The park was developed by the Jhansi Development Authority on a vast stretch of a green patch for children with exciting Panchatantra themed animal statues. Over the years, this has not only been an exciting spot for children but also for adults for morning and evening walks. One of the major attractions of the park is the animal-themed toy train and the park also provides a boating service that take tourists around via the lake situated in the middle of the park. The park is open from 6 am to 8 pm and has an entry fee of INR 20.

The Rani Lakshmi Bai Park is set in the foothills of the Jhansi Fort and is connected to the Maithili Sharan Gupta Park. At the centre of the park there is a magnificent bronze statue of Rani Lakshmi Bai riding her horse, her sword raised and her adopted son Anand Rao, sitting behind her. The park is adorned with lush green trees, jogging tracks, slides, and swings for children and is blessed with a scenic view in all directions. The park is open between 5 am and 9 pm and there is no entry fee.

The Mahalakshmi Temple is situated on the banks of Lakshmi Tal lake and built in honour of Goddess Lakshmi, the goddess of good fortune, wealth and prosperity. The temple is ancient and known as one of the oldest temples in Jhansi, dating to the 18th century. It was built by Raghunath Rao II Newalkar, and served as a place of worship for both the Hindu rulers and the public. The best time to visit the temple is during the festival of Diwali. The temple is open between 6 am and 6 pm.

The Karguvanji Jain temple is a 700-year-old temple and an important pilgrimage for Digambar Jains, a sect that believes in renouncing all material things to attain salvation, including clothes. The full name of the temple is Shri Digamber Jain Atishaya Kshetra Sanvaliya Parasnath Karguvanji, with Atishay Kshetra meaning a place of miracles. The biggest idol installed is of Parshvanatha, the 23rd Tirthankara whose symbol is a snake. Situated on Jhansi-Kanpur highway, the temple has an interesting history during the Peshwas when a man named Singhai Nanheju dream led to the discovery of the idols hidden underground. The temple is open between 7 am and 6 pm.

The St. Jude’s Shrine is a Roman Catholic Latin Rite shrine and is devoted to St. Jude Thaddeus built by Francis Xavier Fenech in the Cantonment area. Daily mass is conducted daily and on the 28th of October, devotees gather to celebrate the Feast of St. Jude. St. Jude Thaddaeus, also called as Jude the Apostle lived during the times of 1st century AD. One of Jesus’s twelve apostles, he travelled to many countries to preach and the St. Jude’s Shrine is the first church in Asia dedicated to him. In summer, the Sunday mass is at 6:30 and 8 am and at 6 pm while in winter, it happens at 7 and 8:30 am and then again at 5 pm. Daily mass during summers take place at 6 am and at 6:30 am during winters.

Parichha Dam, a human-made reservoir is built on the Jhansi-Kanpur Highway in Parichha. The dam is built on the Betwa River and its reservoir, which is a placid stretch of water and runs to Notghat Bridge. It is popular amongst the locals for water sports facilities and boating. Constructed by the British between 1881 to 1886, and is the primary source of water for drinking and agricultural purposes for the town as well as has a thermal plant. Boating in the Betwa River is a soothing experience. The dam stretches over a length of 1176 meters and a height of 77 meters and is open between 9 am and 6 pm. There is no entry fee, but a boating fee of INR 50 is charged.

The Orchha Wildlife Sanctuary is located 19.2 km from Jhansi was established in 1994 and is home to endangered species like tigers and leopards as well as is home to over 200 species of Indian as well as migratory birds. The sanctuary has many activities throughout the year like river rafting, trekking, canoeing, fishing, camping and trekking. The fauna in the sanctuary consists of animals like spotted deer, blue bull, peacock, wild pig, monkey, Jackal, Nilgai, Sloth Bear, tigers and leopards. The birds that can be observed in the sanctuary are peafowls, peacocks, swans, black swan, Jungle Bush Quail, minivet, stork, kingfisher, owls, woodpeckers, geese and collared scop owls. The forest has thick plantations of Dhava, kardhai, teak, palaash and khair trees. The sanctuary was previously an open jungle where many endangered species lived as well a hotspot for thousands of birds. The best time to visit the sanctuary is between November and June. The rainy season should be avoided as the animals seek shelter during heavy rains and cannot be spotted easily and the forest is closed during the rainy season due to the flooding of the river Betwa. The sanctuary is open between 9 am and 5:30 pm and has an entrance fee of INR 40 for Indians and INR 350 for foreigners.

The Jhansi Government Museum was constructed around the late 19th century and is known to have artefacts from the 4th century BC along with exquisite artworks of pre-modern India. Dedicated to Rani Lakshmi Bai, this museum also throws light on the Bundelkhand region. Located within the Jhansi fort, the museum also throws light on the reign of the Chandelas and the Guptas and has a number of galleries with separate galleries for the Bundelas and Chandelas. Artefacts at the museum include the weapons of Rani Lakshmi Bai, an art gallery dedicated to the Guptas, an art gallery dedicated to the Chandelas, weapons used in the Sepoy Mutiny, terracotta and bronze structures, ancient manuscripts, pota and silver and bronze coins. The museum is open between 10 am and 5 pm and is closed on Mondays and every second Saturday of the month. Entrance fees for Indians is INR 5, for foreigners, it is INR 25 and there is a camera charge of INR 20. Photography is prohibited in certain galleries

Barua Sagar is a modest town belonging to the Bundelkhand region. Apart from the lake, Barua Sagar is home to several ruins of forts and temples. Named after Barua Sagar Tal, the town is of great historical significance with breathtaking views from the vantage point of its hilly platforms. The Barua Sagar Lake is a human-made lake that enhances the beautiful scenery of Barua Sagar. The Barua Sagar Fort was built by Raja Udit Singh and is located on the banks of the Barua Sagar Lake and offers magnificent views of the town. The fort allows visitors throughout the week from 9 am to pm. Built by the Pratiharas in 860 AD, and renovated in the 17th century, the Jarai Ka Math is an ancient temple with intricate patterns and carvings of various manifestations of Goddess Durga. Ruins of two major Chandela temples, namely Ghughua Math and Gandai Temple are structures made entirely out of granite that are dedicated to Lord Ganesh and Goddess Durga respectively. Barua Sagar is also the site of the battle between the Bundelas and the Marathas in 1744.

Pilibhit
Moving eastwards, our next destination is Pilibhit, about 451 km northeast of Jhansi, not too far from the Uttar Pradesh and Uttarakhand and the India-Nepal border. Situated in the Rohilkhand region of the sub-Himalayan Plateau belt next to foothills of Sivalik Range on the boundary of Nepal, known for the origin of river Gomati and one of the most forest-rich areas in North India. Pilibhit was also known as Bansuri Nagari or the land of flutes, for the making and exporting roughly 95% of India’s flutes. Though separated only by a short distance from the outer ranges of the Himalayas, Pilibhit consists entirely of a level plain, containing depressions but no hills and is intersected by several streams and is a forest-rich area. The area has diverse features, and topographically may be divided into several distinct tracts with more than ten small to medium-sized rivers and nine small to medium-sized water bodies. The origin of river Gomti, a tributary of the Ganges River, is from a small lake, Gomat Taal, in Madhotanda.

The Chattvi Padshahi Gurudwara, situated in the Pakrdiya is four centuries old, dedicated to the sixth sikh guru, Guru Sri Har Govindji. This white marbled Gurudwara was constructed under the supervision of Guru Govind Singhji who while travelling to Nanakmatta fell in the beauty and tranquility the place offered. The Jaisantri Devi Temple is located about 5 km from Pilibit. The 150 years old temple was destroyed in the 2008 floods, but is is wonderfully constructed. Even though the flood which took place in 2008 has destroyed some of its façade, it remains an architectural marvel. The temple comes alive during the Navratri festivities. Situated on the banks of river Devha and Khakra, the 250-year-old Gauri Shankar Temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and his wife Goddess Parvati. The legend goes that the idols placed in the temple were found by some sages who built the temple to pray to the idols. The Rajaji Temple is dedicated to two members of the Pilibhit royal family, Raja Lalta Prasad and Sahau Har Prasad. The Dargah-e-Shahji Miyan was built to commemorate two great saints, Alaa Hazrat and Shahji Miyan. The shrine is visited by hundreds of people every year and it is believed that offering a chaddar or blanket in the shrine will make wishes come true. The splendid while marbled Jama Masjid was built in 1769 by Hafiz Rahmat Khan in an attempt to replicate the Jama Masjid of Delhi. The Mughal style architecture is juxtaposed with a Bengali styled roof. The Friday prayers is very popular and every Tuesday a small market springs up in the mosque. At a distance of 7 km from Pilibhit lies a small reservoir named Gomaat Taal which is the source of the river Gomti which after flowing 800 km across Uttar Pradesh merges into the Ganges. Devha-Ghagra Sangam is where the Devha and the Ghagra rivers merge. Devotees consider this point holy and take a bath here to purify themselves. Raja Venu ka Tila is located a km from the town and is in ruins today. The dilapidated palace is historical because because Raja Venu was considered to be a friend of Lord Krishna and is even mentioned in the Mahabharata.

Located in the Pilibhit region and part of the Terai-Duar Savanna and grasslands ecosystem, the Pilibhit Tiger Reserve is home to over 127 animals, 556 birds and 2100 flowering plants. The reserve lies along the India-Nepal border with the northeastern boundary of the reserve the Sharda River which defines the Indo-Nepal border, while the southwest boundary is marked by the River Sharda and the River Ghaghara. The reserve has a core zone area of 602.79 sq km and a buffer zone area of 127.45 sq km with elevation ranges from 168 to 175 meters above mean sea level. Contrary to what the name suggests, this reserve is replete with not only a variety of tigers, but also a plethora of rare and threatened species like the Indian leopard, swamp deer, hispid hare and Bengal floricans. The Bengal Tiger and Dudhwa tiger are most prominent species that breed here and the reserve is one of India’s 50 Project Tiger tiger reserves. The forestes of Pilbhit are home to the striped cats, tigers, bears and many species of birds.

Located close to the Indo-Nepal border, the Dudhwa National Park is the perfect weekend getaway. Spread across 811 sq km across the Indo-Gangetic plains, the park was first established in 1985 as a sanctuary for swamp deer and renamed a national park in 1977 and became a part of Project Tiger in 1987 and was declared as a tiger reserve, and along with the Kishanpur Wildlife Sanctuary and the Katarniaghat Wildlife Sanctuary, it is called as the Dudhwa Tiger Reserve. The place has a plethora of rare and endangered species and one of the few where one can witness herds of the Barasingha on the grassy wetlands. Dudhwa National Park is the only national park in North India with a unique terai-bhabar terrain and plays a pivotal role in maintaining an ecological balance in the region. The Tharu Tribal Village is a small village located in the park which allows visitors to meet the Tharu tribe who are mostly farmers and shepherds. The national park does not have their own arrangements for a safari, but visitors can hire jeeps or mini buses from outside to explore it and an elephant ride is another option where elephant mahouts also act as a tour guide. The park is open from 15 November to 15 June each year, however, it is best to visit between November and April, as May and June can get extremely hot. The park has daily jeep safaris in open 4WD safari vehicles, and it is usually arranged in 4×4 customized jeeps with a maximum of 6 people in one jeep with a guide and an equipped forest official accompanying each vehicle. There are also elephant safaris available, where mahouts accompany as guides. The safari timings are between 7 to 10 am and 1 to 5 pm daily and entry fee to the park is INR 50 per person while the vehicle entry fee is INR 100. For safaris, personal vehicles are not allowed and only registered vehicles are permitted.

Bithoor
We travel back 260 km south to Bithoor, our next destination. 24 km north of Kanpur, Bithoor is situated on the right bank of the River Ganges, and is a centre of Hindu pilgrimage. According to Hindu scriptures, Bithoor is the birthplace of Rama’s sons Lava and Kusha. It is also rumoured to be the place where Lord Bramha stayed while performing a yajna and the name of the town is said to be derived from Brahmavarta or the location where Lord Bramha stayed. It was also the centre for the war of Independence of 1857 due to it being the home of many of the rebellion’s most prominent participants including the Rani of Jhansi, Lakshmi Bai and Nana Saheb. The last of the Peshwas, Baji Rao II, was banished to Bithoor and his adopted son, Nana Sahib, made the town his headquarters.

Some of the most significant moments of Hindu religion and mythology are said to be created at the Valmiki Ashram, being the place of the forest-rendezvous of Sita after Lord Rama left her, the birthplace of Lav and Kush and the site where the Ramayana was written. The complex is a memorial of sorts established by the Peshwa ruler Nana Rao Peshwa II. The Lav Kush Janmasthal is supposed to be the exact spot where the princes Lav and Kush were born. Lav and Kush also received their education at Valmiki Ashram from Sage Valmiki and there is a a small chamber within the premises called Sita Rasoi which was the kitchen that Sita used when she settled down there after her separation from Lord Ram. Sita never returned back to Lord Ram and asked mother earth to take her in as whole, this also occurred at the Valmiki Ashram and the spot is named Sita Patal Pravesh. There is also a chamber where Lord Hanuman was rumoured to to stay when he was sent to find out the whereabouts of Sita, Lav and Kush by Lord Ram.

The Brahmavart Ghat is the holiest of the holy ghats in Bithoor where the devotees of Lord Brahma pray at the altar of the Wooden Slippers after a ritual bath. A nail of the horse shoe embedded in the steps of the ghat is an object of special reverence for devotees, as it is considered to be from the shoe of Lord Brahma’s horse, while going for Ashwamedha Yajna. This is also known as the place from where Lord Brahma started mankind, Manu and Shatarupa, according to Hindu mythology and after the completion of the yajna, the forests of Utpalaranya became known as Brahmavarta, from which the popular name, Bithoor is derived. The ghat has a small temple, one of the few shrines in the country devoted to Lord Bramha. The temple houses a Shivaling referred to as the Brahmeshwar Mahadeva, established by Lord Bramha after the completion of Yajna. The temple has wooden slippers to commemorate the sacred footsteps of Lord Bramha. There is also a knot in the ground of the temple which is believed to be the centre of the entire earth. There are also small boats available for boat rides in the Ganges.

The striking red stone Patthar Ghat’s foundation stone on the banks of the Ganges was laid by Tikait Rai, a minister of the Avadh kingdom. The red standstone is from where the ghat got its name, with Patthar meaning stone in Hindi. The ghat also has a small temple devoted to Lord Shiva with a shivaling installed in the temple made of Philosopher’s Stone or Kasauti, as it is known locally.

About two km from Bithoor is where a child named Dhruv, the prince of the kingdom of Utpalaranya and the son of king Uttanpad, meditated on one foot to appease Lord Bramha. Pleased with his devotion, Lord Bramha appeared before him and granted him a boon to be immortalised as a star named Dhruv which is the equivalent to the Pole Star. The place where Prince Dhruva did his penance is known as Dhruva Teela.

The Siddhidham Ashram, also known as the Sudhanshuji Maharaj Ashram, falls under the Vishva Shanti Mission, an organisation run by Sudhanshuji Maharaj on Bithoor road, about 4 km from the town. The ashram has a big campus as well as a Radha Krishna temple and an artificial Kailash Mountain. It also houses a miniature aquarium with tiger sharks and catfish, in addition to this there is a small encounter which contains a few varieties of exotic birds like Macaws and Cockatoos.

The Bithoor Fort is spread over 20 acres and played an integral part in the revolt of 1857. Nana Saheb, the adopted son of the Peshwa ruler Baji Rao II, made the fort his headquarters during his tenure in Bithoor, which was then part of the Cawnpore district, which is today’s Kanpur. The fort was where the leaders of the 1857 revolt planned the attack on the British regiment, in response to which the British bombed the fort due to which the fort lies in ruins today.

The Nana Saheb Rao Park was established by the state government within the museum complex previously known as Company Bagh. Before independence, it was called Memorial Well as a memorial to mourn the lives of British women and children who died in the 1857 massacre. Post independence, the memorial was shifted elsewhere and statues of freedom fighters were constructed in the Nana Saheb Rao park, named after the key player in the revolt of 1857. The park has a decades old enormous Banyan tree which is said to be where the British ordered the mass hangings of several Indian soldiers. There is also a museum with an independent gallery which has historical relics from the colonial period including royal orders, coins, stamps and other antiques. The park has a well paved walkway and a public pool, which is famous among the locals. There is also a small nursery within the park premises, host to a wide array of plant varieties. The park also sees a fair variety of local bird species.

The Deepa Malika Stambh is a high tower near the Sita Rasoi with 48 stairs in seven rounds laid out in a spiral fashion that take one to the top of the tower. The tower is decked up in glimmering diyas or earthen oil lamps during Diwali and looks stunning.

Naimisharanya
Also known as Neemsar, Nimsar or Nimkhar, Naimisaranyam is a Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu located about 91 km north of the state capital of Lucknow, on the left bank of the river Gomati. There are shrines dedicated to Chakranarayana, Ganesh, Rama, Lakshman.[6][7]One of the Divya Desam, the 108 temples of Lord Vishnu revered in the Nalayira Divya Prabandham by the 12 poet saints, or Alwars. The temple is believed to be of significant antiquity with contributions at different times from the ruling kings and is counted as one of the eight temples of Vishnu that self-manifested and is classified as Swayamvyaktha Kshetra. The holy tank Chankra Kunda is associated with the temple and it is a pilgrimage centre where people take a holy dip during festive occasions. The tank is believed to have sprung the Sudarshan Chakra, the weapon associated with Lord Vishnu and this it is said this place is so holy that just by visiting this place, a person can rid himself of his sins and attain moksha or liberation.

Legend says that the Sage Narada is believed to have searched for the best theertha or water body in the three worlds. He went to Kailasa, the abode of Lord Shiva, then to Parkadal or Kshir Sagar, the abode of Lord Vishnu and finally landed in the water body in the Naimisha Forest which was declared the best water body or theertal in all the three worlds. Another story says it was the King of the Gods, Lord Indra who brought together the waters from all the holy rivers to Naimisaranya so the sage Dadhichi could bathe in it before giving up his life so his bones could be made into a weapon to destroy the demon Vritra and regain his place in heaven. According to a third legend, when sages were planning to perform a penance, Lord Brahma’s ring, made from the grass of the dharba, a tropical grass considered a sacred material in Vedic scriptures and is said to purify the offerings during such rituals fell down at Naimisaranya. Lord Brahma then asked the sages to do the penance here and accepted their offerings at the end of the penance. It is believed that the forest still has Lord Vishnu and all sages as trees. The central deity is said to have presided over the forest and hence the puja or rituals are done to the forest, which was worshipped by even the celestial beings. Every new moon day, a large number of people purify themselves with a dip in the holy tank and it is believed that if the new moon falls on a Monday, a holy bath in the tank and offerings to the presiding deity Goddess Lalitha will wash away all the sins committed in the lifetime. The temple is open till 6 pm daily.

Moving further east, our next destinations are Kanpur and the state capital of Lucknow.

In My Hands Today…

Posted on August 24, 2021 by memoriesandsuch

Difficult Women: A History of Feminism in 11 Fights – Helen Lewis

Well-behaved women don’t make history: difficult women do.

Feminism’s success is down to complicated, contradictory, imperfect women, who fought each other as well as fighting for equal rights. Helen Lewis argues that too many of these pioneers have been whitewashed or forgotten in our modern search for feel-good, inspirational heroines. It’s time to reclaim the history of feminism as a history of difficult women.

In this book, you’ll meet the working-class suffragettes who advocated bombings and arson; the princess who discovered why so many women were having bad sex; the pioneer of the refuge movement who became a men’s rights activist; the ‘striker in a sari’ who terrified Margaret Thatcher; the wronged Victorian wife who definitely wasn’t sleeping with the prime minister; and the lesbian politician who outraged the country. Taking the story up to the present with the twenty-first-century campaign for abortion services, Helen Lewis reveals the unvarnished – and unfinished – history of women’s rights.

Drawing on archival research and interviews, Difficult Women is a funny, fearless and sometimes shocking narrative history, which shows why the feminist movement has succeeded – and what it should do next. The battle is difficult, and we must be difficult too.

Travel Bucket List: India – Uttar Pradesh Part 3

Posted on August 23, 2021 by memoriesandsuch

Fatehpur Sikri

Located close to Agra and about 65 km south of Mathura, Fatehpur Sikri was founded as the capital of the Mughal Empire in 1571 by Emperor Akbar, until 1585 when Akbar abandoned it because of a campaign in Punjab and was later completely abandoned in 1610. The name of the city is derived from the village called Sikri which occupied the spot before. An Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) excavation from 1999 to 2000 indicated that there was a habitation, temples and commercial centres here before Akbar built his capital. The region was settled by Sungas following their expansion and was briefly controlled by the Sikarwar Rajputs in the 12^th century. Akbar’s son Jahangir was born at the village of Sikri in 1569 and the same year, Akbar began construction of a religious compound to commemorate the Sheikh who had predicted the birth. After Jahangir’s second birthday, he began the construction of a walled city and imperial palace here. The city came to be known as Fatehpur Sikri, or the City of Victory, after Akbar’s victorious Gujarat campaign in 1573. After occupying Agra in 1803, the English established an administrative centre here and it remained so until 1850 and in 1815, the Marquess of Hastings ordered repair of the monuments at Sikri. Archaeological evidence points to settlement of the region since the Painted Grey Ware period. Today, Fatehpur Sikri is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The town sits on rocky ridge, 3 km in length and 1 km wide is surrounded by a 6 km wall on three sides with the fourth bordered by a lake falls roughly into the shape of a rhombus. The dynastic architecture of Fatehpur Sikri was modelled on Timurid forms and styles and was built massively and preferably with red sandstone. Gujarati influences are also seen in its architecture and in the decor of the palaces with the architecture reflecting both Hindu and Muslim form of domestic architecture popular at the time. The town is accessed through gates along the 8 km long fort wall, namely, the Delhi Gate, the Lal Gate, the Agra Gate and Birbal’s Gate, Chandanpal Gate, the Gwalior Gate, the Tehra Gate, the Chor Gate, and the Ajmeri Gate and contains the summer and winter palaces for Queen Jodha.

Set into the south wall of the congregational mosque, Buland Darwaza or the Gate of Magnificence is 180 ft high, gradually making a transition to a human scale in the inside. The gate was added around five years after the completion of the mosque, in 1576-1577 as a victory arch to commemorate Emperor Akbar’s successful Gujarat campaign. Made up of red sandstone and decorated with white and black marbles, the gate carries two inscriptions in the archway. The central portico comprises three arched entrances, with the largest one, in the centre, is known locally as the Horseshoe Gate, after the custom of nailing horseshoes to its large wooden doors for luck. Outside the giant steps of the Buland Darwaza to the left is a deep well.

Jama Masjid was It was a congregational mosque and was one of the first buildings erected in the town. Built-in the 17th century, it mosque is a UNESCO World Heritage Site today and is also known as the Friday Mosque. It was built in the manner of Indian mosques, with iwans around a central courtyard. A distinguishing feature is the row of chhatri over the sanctuary. There are three mihrabs in each of the seven bays, while the large central mihrab is covered by a dome, it is decorated with white marble inlay, in geometric patterns. It is constructed in a transition style in a mixture of Islamic architecture and Persian styles. The interiors are embellished with watercolor paintings with corbelled pendentives supporting the dome in comparison to squinches which support the domes usually.

A white marble encased tomb of the Sufi saint, Salim Chisti within the Jama Masjid’s sahn or courtyard. The single-storey structure is built around a central square chamber, within which is the grave of the saint, under an ornate wooden canopy encrusted with mother-of-pearl mosaic. Surrounding it is a covered passageway for circumambulation, with carved Jalis, stone pierced screens all around with intricate geometric design and an entrance to the south. The tomb is influenced by earlier mausolea of the early 15th century Gujarat Sultanate period. Other striking features of the tomb are white marble serpentine brackets, which support sloping eaves around the parapet. On the left of the tomb, to the east, stands a red sandstone tomb of Islam Khan I, son of Shaikh Badruddin Chishti and grandson of Shaikh Salim Chishti, who became a general in the Mughal army during the reign of Jahangir. The tomb is topped by a dome and thirty-six small domed chattris and contains a number of graves, some unnamed, all male descendants of Shaikh Salim Chishti. The tomb is known for blessing childless couples and devotes come from all over the country to pray for children with devotees tying threads over the marble screens as a reminder of their prayers to Salim Chisti.

The Diwan-i-Khas or Hall of Private Audience, is a plain square building with four chhatris on the roof. However it is famous for its central pillar, which has a square base and an octagonal shaft, both carved with bands of geometric and floral designs, further its thirty-six serpentine brackets support a circular platform for Akbar, which is connected to each corner of the building on the first floor, by four stone walkways. It is here that Akbar had representatives of different religions discuss their faiths and gave private audience.

The Diwan-i-Aam or Hall of Public Audience, is a building typology found in many cities where the ruler meets the general public. In this case, it is a pavilion-like multi-bayed rectangular structure fronting a large open space. Standing on 49 pillars, the Diwan-i-Aam consists of a Jharokha type chamber which is also known as Takht-i-Murassa. This place has beautiful decorations all over its pillars and walls. Made of Marble is the Bethak where the ministers were to sit. Two gateways and three aisles divide the hall. South west of the Diwan-i-Am and next to the Turkic Sultana’s House stand Turkic Baths.

Constructed in 1575, the Ibadat Khana or the House of Worship was a meeting house where Akbar had laid the foundations of Din-e-Ilahi. Here spiritual leaders of different religions gathered to conduct discussions of the teachings of their respective faiths.

Anup Talao was built by Raja Anup Singh Sikarwar and is an ornamental pool with a central platform and four bridges leading up to it. Some of the important buildings of the royal enclave are surround by it including the Khwabgah or the House of Dreams, Akbar’s residence, Panch Mahal, a five-storey palace, the Diwan-i-Khas or the Hall of Private Audience, Ankh Michauli and the Astrologer’s Seat, in the south-west corner of the Pachisi Court. It is also said to be the residence of Akbar’s muslim wife, although this is disputed due to its small size.

Also known as Harkabai or Jodhabai, Mariam-uz-Zamani was the wife of Emperor Akbar. The building of Akbar’s Rajput wives, including Mariam-uz-Zamani, is built in a fusion of Rajput and Mughal architecture with Gujarati influence and is built around a courtyard, with special care being taken to ensure privacy. It was on the eastern side of the court.

Also known as the Naqqar Khana or drum house, Naubat Khana is where musicians used drums to announce the arrival of the emperor. It is situated ahead of the Hathi Pol Gate or the Elephant Gate, the south entrance to the complex, suggesting that it was the imperial entrance. There are rich carvings on the sandstone walls.

Panch Mahal is a five-storied palatial structure, with the tiers gradually diminishing in size, till the final one, which is a single large-domed chhatri. Originally pierced stone screens faced the facade and probably sub-divided the interior as well, suggesting it was built for the ladies of the court. The floors are supported by intricately carved columns on each level, totalling to 176 columns in all. With design elements of a Buddhist temple, the pavilion gives a splendid view of the fort. Panch Mahal has a pool, the Anoop Talab in front of it which once was a setting for musical concerts.

Akbar’s favorite, Birbal was a Hindu minister in his court. His palace finds its place near the northwest corner of Jodhabai’s Palace. It contains four rooms interconnected with open doorways. Two oblong porches are also there. These have a pyramidical roof with a triangular roof. The interiors are full of single bordered designs, Arabesque geometrical designs, and floral designs. The first floor has beautifully decorated Jharokas and Chajjas. The domes have carvings of inverted lotus and Kalash designs and tile work. The building also has horizontal sloping sunshades or chajjas and the brackets which support them.

The Hiran Minar, or Elephant Tower, is a circular tower covered with stone projections in the form of elephant tusks. Traditionally it was thought to have been erected as a memorial to the Emperor Akbar’s favourite elephant. However, it was probably a used as a starting point for subsequent mileposts.

A precursor to modern-day offices, the Daftar Khana was Akbar’s record room. It was a place given to the important files and documents associated with his reign. Built on a high platform, the building has facades on all four sides. There is a room inside which has three doorways on its north and beautifully carved tracery work on red sandstones on its south.

The Pachisi or Chaupar Court is a square marked out as a large board game, the precursor to modern day Ludo game where people served as the playing pieces. Built by Kabar in 1572, the emperor and his court played the game of Pachisi, similar to that of modern-day ludo and chess. The game instead of being played with original tokens were played with human beings with servants dressed as tokens of the game and the players instructing the pieces to make the moves.

One of the most beautiful complexes in Fatehpur Sikri, Khwabgah acted as the Emperor’s personal place. It had space for the Emperor to hold meetings, a Kitab Khana or library, a small bathroom, and a bedroom. The bedroom had covered connections with the Panch Mahal and the imperial harem. Where the ground floor is quite simple, the first floor, which was the emperor’s personal space was decorated with geometrical and floral carvings with mural and paintings on the walls depicting court scenes along with Persian inscriptions which are today faded.

Beside Queen Jodha’s palace and opposite Birbal’s palace lies the Lower Haramsara. The reason behind its construction is ambiguous as for some historians it was a stable and for others was a place of servants. The entire structure consists of floral paintings both inside out. The columns here are a mix of Indian and Islamic designs.

Other buildings in Fatehpur Sikri include the Taksal or royal mint, the Karkhana or royal workshops, the Khazana or treasury, the Hammam or Turkish baths, the Darogha’s or security quarters , stables, caravanserai, Hakim’s or doctors quarters.

Agra

Moving on, lying about 36 km east of Fatehpur Sikri is the city with the monument which speaks of eternal love, the city without visiting for which many, their trip to India is incomplete, Agra, on the banks of the Yamuna and home to the Taj Mahal. With a population of roughly 1.6 million, Agra is the fourth-most populous city in Uttar Pradesh and twenty-third most populous city in India.

During the rule of the Mughals, Agra began it’s golden age and was the foremost city of the Indian subcontinent and the capital of the Mughal Empire under the Mughal emperors Babur, Humayun, Akbar, Jahangir and Shah Jahan. Under Mughal rule, Agra became a centre for learning, arts, commerce, and religion, and saw the construction of the Agra Fort, Sikandra and Agra’s most prized monument, the Taj Mahal, built by Shah Jahan as a mausoleum for his favourite empress.

The name Agra is explained by three different derivations. The most accepted one is that it had its origin from the Hindi word agar meaning salt-pan, a name which was given to it because the soil in the region is brackish and salt used to be made here once by evaporation. Others derive it from Hindu mythology claiming that the Sanskrit word agra which means the first of the many groves and little forests where Krishna frolicked with the gopis of Vrindavan. Another version is that when Sikandar Lodi was sailing down the Yamuna in his royal yacht he asked his steersman to point out a site that was fit for a building a city. Out of the many mounds all around, the steersman pointed to the one directly ahead, supposedly using the Sanskrit word agra or front to express what he meant.

Agra has two histories: one of the ancient city on the east, or left, bank of the river Yamuna, going back so far as to be lost in the legends of Krishna and Mahabharata and reestablished by Sikandar Lodhi in 1504-1505; the other of the modern city, founded by emperor Akbar in 1558, on the right bank of the river which is associated with the Mughals, and known throughout the world as the city of the Taj. Of ancient Agra little now remains except a few traces of the foundations. It was a place of importance under various Hindu dynasties previous to the Muslim invasions of India, but its history is unclear, and possess little historical interest. Akbar built the modern city of Agra on the right bank of Yamuna, where the majority of its part still lies. He converted the city into a great centre of political, cultural and economic importance, connecting it with the various parts of his vast empire. Before his death, Agra had become probably one of the biggest cities in the east, with huge amounts of trade and commerce happening through its bazaars. Shah Jahan later shifted the capital to Shahjahanabad, now known as Delhi in 1648, followed by his son Aurangzeb moving the entire court to Delhi in 1658. With this Agra began rapidly declining, but it continued to be referred to as the second capital of the empire.

In the late 18^th century the control of the city fell successively to the Jats, the Marathas, the Mughals, the ruler of Gwalior, and finally the British East India Company. After the decline of the Mughal Empire, the city came under the influence of another post-Mughal Empire power, the Marathas, before falling into the hands of the British East India Company in 1803. Between 1834 and 1836, Agra was the capital of the short-lived Presidency of Agra and then the capital of the North-Western Province from 1836 to 1868 and once of the centres of the Indian rebellion of 1857.

Post India’s independence, Agra has gradually developed into an industrial city, with a significant contribution to the state’s economy. The city is now a popular tourist destination with the Taj Mahal and the Agra Fort UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Today, the Taj Mahal is a symbol of India and Agra has developed into an industrial town, with a booming tourism industry, along with footwear, leather and other manufacturing.

One of the new seven wonders of the world, the Taj Mahal is located on the southern or right bank of the Yamuna river, on the easten part of Agra, about 1.6 km east of Agra Fort. Built by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan as a memorial for his third wife, Mumtaz Mahal, it also houses the tomb of Shah Jahan himself. Constructed entirely out of white marble from Makrana in Rajasthan in the 17th century, the Taj Mahal is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Covering an area of approximately 42 acres, the construction of the Taj Mahal began in 1631 with upwards of twenty thousand workers from India, Persia, the Ottoman Empire, and Europe and took 22 years before completion. It is distinguished as the finest example of Mughal architecture, a blend of Indian, Persian and Islamic styles. Designed as a unified entity according to the principles of Mughal architecture, the five principal elements of the complex were the main gateway, garden, mosque, jawab literally meaning an answer, a building mirroring the mosque and the mausoleum, with its four minarets.

The Taj Mahal can be be observed from Agra Fort from where Emperor Shah Jahan gazed at it for the last eight years of his life, a prisoner of his son Aurangzeb. Verses of the Quran are inscribed on it and at the top of the gate are 22 small domes, signifying the number of years the monument took to build. The Taj Mahal was built on a marble platform that stands above a sandstone one with it’s back to the Yamuna river. Each corner of the platform is graced with 40m high white minarets. The most elegant and largest dome of the Taj Mahal with a diameter of 60 feet and a height of 80 feet is where the tomb of Mumtaz Mahal lies directly below. Shah Jahan’s tomb was erected next to hers by his son Aurangzeb. These tombs are false tombs as the real tombs of Mumtaz Mahal and Shah Jahan lies in a locked room below the main chamber. The four indistinguishable faces of the Taj Mahal are in perfect symmetry, featuring impressive vaulted arches containing pietra dura inlay work, incorporating semi-precious stones and quotations from the Quran. The whole structure is topped off by four small domes.

The Taj Mahal can be accessed through east, west and south gates with tour groups entering through the east and west gates and independent travellers through the south gate. Inside the grounds, the ornamental gardens are set on the classic Mughal charbagh or in the formal Persian garden style. The garden begins at the entryway and spreads across to the base of the mausoleum. Unique to the construction of this garden is the usage of the number four and its multiples as four is considered as the holiest number in Islam. The garden is divided into four parts, with two marble canals studded with the fountains occupying the centre. Each quarter portion of the garden has 16 flowerbeds each of which was planted with 400 plants.

The best time to visit Taj Mahal is during sunrise when it looks the most majestic and the most comfortable time because of fewer crowds. Another magical time to visit the Taj at sunset. One can also visit it for five nights including a full moon night and two nights before and after the full moon. The dates and timings are decided by the Archaeological Survey of India and night viewings take place between 8:30 pm and 12:30 am in eight batches of about 50 people each for 30 minutes each time with only 400 visitors allowed on a single night. The entry tickets for this time is limited though, and it must be bought a day in advance from the Archaeological Survey of India office.

Other attractions in the complex include the twin mosque buildings placed symmetrically on either side of the mausoleum, gardens, and a museum. However, air pollution caused by emissions from foundries and other nearby factories and exhaust from motor vehicles has damaged the Taj Mahal, notably its marble facade. A number of measures have been taken to reduce the threat to the monument, among them the closing of some foundries and the installation of pollution-control equipment at others, the creation of a parkland buffer zone around the complex, and the banning of nearby vehicular traffic, and more recently, use of a mud pack therapy. Most importantly, the 10,400 sq km Taj Trapezium Zone has been created around the Taj Mahal and other nearby monuments where strict pollution restrictions are in place on industries, following a 1996 Supreme Court of India ruling.

The Taj Mahal opens 30 minutes before sunrise and closes 30 minutes after sunset and is closed on Fridays when it is accessible to practising muslims to attend the prayers in the afternoon. Entry fees for Indian is INR 45, for SAARC and BIMSTEC citizens, it is INR 535 and for other foreigners, it is INR 1050 with children below the age of 15 having free entry. For all visitors, including children, there is an additional fee of INR 200 to see the main mausoleum. The ticket price include a 500 ml bottle of water and shoe covers. Visitors can also pick up an audio guide for INR 118 from the ticket counter.

The Agra Fort is a large 16^th century fortress of red sandstone first established by the Emperor Akbar and served as the seat of royal government when Agra was the capital of the Mughal empire in addition to being a military base and a royal residence. Built on the site of an earlier fortifications by Islam Shah Suri, the son of Sher Shah Suri. Agra Fort lies on the right bank of the Yamuna river and is connected to the Taj Mahal which lies downstream, around a bend in the Yamuna, by a stretch of parkland. The fort was commissioned by Akbar in 1565, taking around eight years to build. Though much of the structure of the fort was founded by Akbar, both the interior and exterior underwent considerable changes under his son Jahangir and grandson Shah Jahan, who added many new structures, often of marble. The red sandstone walls of the roughly semi-circular structure have a perimeter of about 2.5 km, rise 21 metres high, and are surrounded by a moat. There are two entrances in the walls, the Delhi Gate facing west, the original entrance, situated nearly opposite to the Agra Fort railway station and Jama Masjid, and decorated with intricate marble inlays; and the Amar Singh Gate, also known as Hathi Pol or Elephant Gate facing south, presently the only means in or out of the fort complex. The complex of buildings in the fort is reminiscent of Persian and Timurid architecture with great inspiration from Jain and Hindu architecture and forms a city within a city. Today Agra Fort is the second UNESCO World Heritage Site in Agra, after the Taj Mahal.

Among the major attractions in the fort is Jahangiri Mahal, the largest residence in the complex, built by Akbar as a private palace for his son Jahangir. This was adjacent to Queen Jodha’s palace and is built in stone and simple in its design with Persian verses carved out in a large stone bowl used for storing rose water. In the Diwan-i-Am or the Hall of Public Audience where the emperor would listen to public petitions and meet state officials. The Diwan-i-Khas or the Hall of Private Audience was used for receiving distinguished visitors. The famous Peacock Throne was once kept there, before Aurangzeb took it to Delhi. This hall was intricately decorated with marble pillars studded with floral patterns of semi-precious stones. Adjacent to the Diwan-i-Khas stands the Musamman Burj, an octagonal Tower which was the residence of Shah Jahan’s favourite empress, Mumtaz Maḥal. The Moti Masjid or the Pearl Mosque, constructed by Shah Jahan, is a structure made entirely of white marble. The emperor’s private residence was the Khas Mahal, whose marble walls were once adorned with flowers depicted by precious gems with classical Persian and Islamic influences with a touch of Hindu motifs in its construction. Located to its northeast is the Sheesh Mahal or Palace of Mirrors with its walls and ceilings inlaid with thousands of small mirrors and employs the most sophisticated water engineering designs. Mammam-E-Shahi or the Shah Burj was used as the summer retreat, while the Nagina Masjid was built by emperor Shah Jahan as a private mosque for the ladies of the court while the Mina Masjid was the private shrine of Emperor Shah Jahan. Today some parts of the Agra Fort is used by the Indian Army and is off-limit to public access. The fort also served as a prison for Shah Jahan when Aurangzeb, his son and successor as emperor, had him confined there from 1658 until his death in 1666. The fort is open between sunrise and sunset and entry fees for Indians is INR 40 while foreigners pay INR 550. Children below the age of 15 enter free and entry into the fort is only allowed through the Amar Singh gate.

Often referred to as the Baby Taj Mahal, the tomb of Itimad-ud-Daulah is a Mughal mausoleum and is the first tomb in India made entirely of marble. The tomb was commissioned by Nur Jahan, the wife of Jahangir, for her father Mir Gheyas Beg, later known as Itimad-ud-daulah, A minister in the court of Jahangir. The tomb marks the transition from the first phase of the Mughal architecture to the second. This was the first structure to make use of pietra dura and the first to be built on the banks of the Yamuna River and consists of Indo-Islamic architecture, with the use of arched entrances and octagonal shaped towers. A bird’s eye of Itimad-ud-daulah Tomb shows it looks like a jewel box set in a garden. Located on the left bank of the Yamuna river, the mausoleum is set in a large cruciform garden, criss-crossed by water courses and walkways. On each corner are hexagonal towers, about thirteen metres tall. The walls are white marble from Rajasthan encrusted with semi-precious stone decorations made of cornelian, jasper, lapis lazuli, onyx, and topaz in images of cypress trees and wine bottles, or more elaborate decorations like cut fruit or vases containing bouquets. Light penetrates to the interior through delicate Jali screens of intricately carved white marble. The tomb is made of white marble and placed on a large red sandstone platform, which can be accessed by four monumental gateways. The inner space of the tomb is divided among 9 Chambers, with the central chamber being the largest of all and accessible only from the southern side. There are cypress tree and other floral decorations on the wall, that give off an essence of the Persian architecture. The origin of lattice jali is from Gujarat and has been used extensively during the Mughal reign. The Eastern gate is the main entrance, the Western gate, a waterfront pavilion and the Southern and Northern gates are to just maintain symmetry. These gates are made with red sandstone and have geometric designs and chine khana designs on white marbles. The square-shaped tomb has four turrets which are adorned with small domed kiosks known as Chattris. These Chattris, one on each corner rise from an octagonal base. There are jali works from the arched entrance of the tomb to the centre of the mausoleum. The garden around the tomb is square in shape and divided into 4 quadrants, with the tomb in between. The garden includes walkways and water channels. The garden is also symmetrically maintained and each of its quadrants represents each sea of paradise. The garden also comprises of 4 rectangular pools with fountains, which enhances the beauty of the overall area. The tomb remains open from dawn to dusk and one can visit anytime during the day. However, to catch the monument at its best, it is recommended to visit during sunrise or sunset.

The final resting place of the Mughal Emperor Akbar, is situated in Sikandra on the outskirts of Agra, about 13 km from the Agra Fort and spreads over an area of 119 acres. Built entirely out of sandstone and white marble between 1605 and 1618., the four-storied tomb combines both marble and sandstone in its exterior. The construction of Sikandra was commenced in Akbar’s reign, and was completed by his heir and son Jahangir in 1613. The tomb, built in a mixture of Hindu Rajputana design and gothic Mughal style is set amidst a large garden, and is enclosed by four battlemented walls, each with a large gateway. The shape of the tomb is pyramidal and has four storeys and a marble pavilion, which contains the false tomb with the true tomb in the basement. The 99 names of Allah have been inscribed on the tomb. The tomb has seen some damage to its minarets and other aspects, which was inflicted by the Jats of Bharatpur. The vast gardens around Sikandra are inhabited by several Blackbucks, which are in the process of being shifted to the Etawah Safari Park. The ground floor is surrounded by walkways all around except at the centre of the southern side, which is the way that leads in from the main gate. These arcades are divided by huge arches and piers that divided the walkways into many bays. The next three storeys are square with arcades and clusters of kiosks on each side. In the second storey, some of the kiosks have marble roofs in pyramidal shapes. The rest of the kiosks are crowned by cupolas. Every end of the third storey has a small square shaped room. The top storey that is, the pavilion is made entirely of white marble. It has an open-to-the-sky square court. Slender arches and piers have enclosed the central courtyard, dividing it into many bays. A square platform lies at the centre of the courtyard over which the false tomb is laid out, made of marble. The tomb had floral patterns and arabesque beautifully carved on to it. Unlike other muslim kings, Akbar’s Tomb faces towards the rising sun instead of Mecca. The tomb is open from sunrise to sunset every day except Fridays when it is closed. Entrance fees includes a development authority fee of INR 5 for Indians, with citizens of SAARC and BIMSTEC countries paying INR 25 as well as a toll tax from the Agra Development Authority of INR 10. Other foreigners pay INT 110 and children under the age of 15 enter free. Foreigners who purchase the Agra Development Authority toll ticket of INR 500 for Taj Mahal, do not need to purchase any other toll ticket if they visit Akbar’s Tomb on the same day.

Chini ka Rauza is the tomb of Allama Afzal Khan Mullah, the Prime Minister of the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan. Also known as China Tomb, it was built between 1628 and 1639 and has a marvellous fusion of the Indo-Persian style. It is the first monument of its kind to be decorated by glazed tile work, known as chini. The tomb is located 1 km north of Itimad-ud-Daulah’s tomb, on the banks of the river Yamuna and is is built facing Mecca. The tiles for the mausoleum are known to have been imported from China. The rectangular building has striking features, the most alluring of which are the turquoise, orange, yellow and green coloured tiles also known as kashi or chini. It’s dome has been elevated to give a two-storeyed effect to the building. The chief chamber is octagonal in shape, has eight arched clefts and is connected to the four side halls. Built-in the Afghan style of architecture, Chini ka Rauza is believed to be the only building in India with Persian architectural designs. The interiors of the shrine are adorned with intricate paintings and inscriptions from the Quran.

One of the last Mughal gardens in Agra, Mehtab Bagh is a charbagh or four garden complex located just north to the Taj Mahal and overlooking the Agra Fort on one side and the Yamuna river on the other. Perfectly aligned with the gardens of Taj Mahal, Mehtab Bagh provides a picture-perfect view of the Taj from the fountain at the front of the entrance gate and is a popular sunset photography spot. The garden has four sandstone towers, one each at the corner with a huge octagonal tank right in the centre. It is believed that Shah Jahan got the bagh designed so he could admire the beauty of Taj Mahal. On the moonlit nights, the clear reflection of the wondrous Taj Mahal in the waters of the park is a sight worth seeing. The Bagh has scores of vibrantly blooming floral plants and medicinal herbs, besides fruit trees. Originally built in 1530 by the Mughal Emperor Babur, the garden fell into disrepair until Shah Jahan renovated it into a moonlit pleasure garden in the Persian style layout with plastered pavilions elevated walkways, ornamental fountains and pretty pools. In 1994, excavations carried out by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI unearthed an octagonal tank, 25 water fountains and a four-complex divided compartment. The garden compound is constructed with red sandstone, brick and lime plaster. There is a stepped waterfall present in the north that feeds the octagonal pond on the southern end. this pond. Of the four towers, only one tower stands today, towards the south-east side and a large water tank on the east, with many water channels. The garden also houses two ruined structures which are presumed to be the garden pavilions that did not survive the passage of time and an aqueduct in the north that waters the garden. Mehtab Bagh is open between 6 am to 6 pm and Indians and SAARC nation visitors pay INR 30 as entrance fees while other foreigners pay INR 200.

Built by emperor Shah Jahan in 1637 as his personal leisure garden, Anguri Bagh is a sprawling charbagh or four compartment styled garden complex, on the premises of the Khas Mahal in Agra Fort. Originally popular for the thick creepers of grapes, the garden came to be called as Anguri Bagh or the Garden of Grapes. The structure in the garden is made of fine white marble which was painted and gilded in gold and adorned with beautiful paintings. The main part of this structure consisted of a hall with a recess and rooms in a surrounding semicircular pattern and a huge courtyard in the front with tanks, fountains and hammams overlooking the garden. Anguri Bagh is open between sunrise and sunset and the entry fee for Indians is INR 40 while foreigners need to pay INR 510.

The Aram Bagh, commonly known as Ram Bagh today, is one of the oldest Mughal garden in India, and was built by the Mughal emperor Babur in 1528 on the bank of the Yamuna. It lies about 2.3 km (1 mi) north of the Taj Mahal. The original name of the gardens was Aram Bagh, or ‘Garden of Relaxation’, and this was where Babur used to spend his leisure time.

Also known as the Friday Mosque, the Jama Masjid is a seventeenth-century structure and one of the largest mosques built by the Mughals in India. Constructed under the reign of Shah Jahan in 1648, the Jama Masjid is dedicated to his favourite daughter Jahan Ara Begum. This splendid monument is visible from the Agra Fort with the Agra Fort Railway station right between the two structures. Built mainly of red sandstone and white marble , the mosque has a fountain at the centre and is supported by four kiosks in the courtyard. The interior walls have scriptures in the Persian style praising Shah Jahan and Jahan Ara and the inlaid panels are similar to that of Taj Mahal. Every Friday, special prayers are conducted and the Tomb of Salim Chisti is a part of the mosque compound. The Jama Masjid has many domes, out of which the prayer dome is the largest. The Buland Darwaza is forty meters high and is built of red sandstone and is semi-octagonal in pattern and contains three massive domes at the top. These domes are followed by three smaller domes and twelve tiny domes at lower levels. The impressive arches at the courtyard are supported by pillars covered in red sandstone. The domes are decorated by an inverted lotus and are ornamented by a Kalash at the top. The designs on top of these domes are made of alternating stripes of marble and red sandstone. Entry to the Jama Mosque is possible through five entrances with the gateway embellished with small layers of sandstone. The Iwan or the rectangular hall walled on three sides has a central arch with several geometric patterns. Jama Masjid is open from 7 am to 12 noon and then from 1:30 to 6:30 pm. While entry is free, photography charges are INR 30. Feet are expected to be covered and women are expected to cover their heads while inside the mosque.

Located inside the Taj Mahal complex, the Taj Museum was established in 1982 on the western end of the Taj Gardens. The tiny but terrific depository is a double-storeyed building with a quadrangle projection outside. Situated a little left on the main gate of the mausoleum inside the Jal Mahal, the museum provides the wonderful opportunity to have a close look at the blueprints, art and artefacts used in the construction of the monument. Spread over two floors, the museum boasts of three galleries in addition to the main hall. The main attraction is the 17th-century ivory portraits of the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan and his beloved queen Mumtaz Mahal. Other than that, there are a dozen paintings, frescoes and sketches of the planning and designing of the Taj Mahal, in addition to umpteen antiques, miniature paintings, manuscripts, government decrees, arms, utensils, specimens of inlay works etc. The first gallery is a depiction of the brainstorming involved behind the construction of Taj, site plans, and various letters sent to and fro between Shah Jahan and Raja Jai Singh of Jaipur ensuring the smooth supply of makrana marble. The second gallery showcases some jade and porcelain objects including a jade Quran stand, beautifully ornamented vase of the same material, nifty celadon ware utensils, arms and specimens of other semi-precious stones etc. The third gallery is a display of documents, farmans, famous calligraphy works and the paintings of the monument post completion. The museum also houses many original Mughal miniature paintings. As well as some Caledon plates which are said to split into pieces or change colour if the food served on them contains poison. The museum is open between 10 am and 7 pm and is closed on Fridays. Entrance charges are INR 20 for Indians and INR 750 for foreigners.

Established in 1995, Wildlife SOS is a non-profit organisation that rescues and rehabilitates wild animals and forests. Its Agra Bear Rescue Facility is the largest sloth bear rescue facility in the world housing 130 sloth bears. The Elephant Care and Conservation Centre, located halfway between Agra and Mathura, rescues and rehabilitates abused and captive elephants. To visit any of the conservation facility of Wildlife SOS, one must email or phone in advance to book a time slot. There are 3-4 slots available per day with the package facilitating a guided tour of the area and the presentation of a well-informed documentary showcasing the rescue of dancing bears and their recovery. Wildlife SOS is open between 9 am and 1 pm and then between 2 to 6 pm with the entry fee for one being INR 6500, for two INR 5600, for three people INR 5500 and for 4 or more people it is INR 5300 per person.

The Keetham Lake Bird Sanctuary also known as the Sur Sarovar Bird Sanctuary is situated within the Surdas Reserved Forest and has nearly two dozen varieties of migratory and resident birds.

103 km south of Agra lies the National Chambal Wildlife Sanctuary, home to the Gharial, red crowned turtles, Gangetic Dolphins and Indian skimmers, among others. Surrounded by the Chambal river, the cleanest river in the country, the sanctuary provides visitors with an unpolluted habitat, abundant wildlife, amazing landscapes, medieval temples and magnificent ancient ruins. Tourists usually rent a motorised boat to go up and down the river as it flows through the ravines which provides visitors an up close and personal view of the birds and animals. Walks around the river and ravines are also organised and alongside the normal jeep safari, this national park offers visitors with a river safari, bicycle rides, camel safaris and horse safaris. The Chambal River Safari is the highlight of the sanctuary, almost 3 hours long and the best way to enjoy the view of the sanctuary. The Chambal river is the lifeline of the forest and meanders its way across the states of Madhya Pradesh, Rajasthan and Uttar Pradesh. Boats with a seating capacity of few more than a dozen people are arranged by the Chambal Safari Lodge which carry visitors through the river and also have guides. The endangered Gharial and the Ganges River Dolphin are the major attractions of the sanctuary with other inhabitants including Muggar crocodiles, Bengal Foxes, Indian Grey Mongoose, Smooth-coated Otters, Striped Hyaena and the Indian Wolf. Chambal is also home to 8 out of 26 rare turtle species found in India and a haven for many migratory birds.

Garhmukteshwar

Moving on from Agra, we now travel 265 km north to Garmukteshwar, a popular pilgrim spot situated on the banks of the River Ganges. A popular day trip from Delhi, it is the closest where one can take a dip in the Ganges during the Ganga Mela held here on the full moon nights in the month of Kartika during October and November when devotees bathe in the waters of the Ganges to cleanse themselves of sins. The Ganges river in Garhmukteshwar is also known for its sightings of the Ganges River Dolphins. Garhmukteshwar is an ancient place that is mentioned in the Bhagavata Purana and the Mahabharata. There are claims that it was a part of ancient Hastinapur, the capital of the Pandavas. An ancient fort, repaired by the Maratha leader Mir Bhawan, became, under the British, the headquarters of the tehsil. The name of the town is derived from the temple of Mukteshwar Mahadeva, dedicated to the Goddess Ganga who is worshipped there in four temples. The town has 80 sati pillars, marking the spots where Hindu widows are said to have become Sati-Mata. The town also has a mosque, built by Gays-ud-din Balban, that bears an inscription in Arabic dating to 682 Hijri or 1283 AD.

In the next part, we will explore some ancient and historic towns in Uttar Pradesh.

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