Tamil Brahmin or Iyer Wedding Rituals

A wedding is the union of two people, and every culture and religion has different rituals which signify this union. The rituals and ceremonies surrounding marriage in most cultures are associated primarily with fecundity and validate the importance of marriage for the continuation of a clan, people, or society. They also assert a familial or communal sanction of the mutual choice and an understanding of the difficulties and sacrifices involved in making what is considered, in most cases, to be a lifelong commitment to and responsibility for the welfare of spouse and children. Marriage ceremonies include symbolic rites, often sanctified by a religious order, which are thought to confer good fortune on the couple. Because economic considerations play an essential role in the success of child-rearing, the offering of gifts, both real and symbolic, to the married couple is a significant part of the marriage ritual.

In India, the variety of communities and religions ensure that weddings are a glitzy affair with Hindu weddings being highly elaborate affairs, involving several prescribed rituals and in most cases, the date of the ceremony is determined by careful astrological calculations. Indian weddings are known for their grandeur and vibrance. Tamil Brahmin weddings, especially hold a special place because of their meaningful rituals and ceremonies that bring two families together. The community I belong to also has traditions and ceremonies that are unique to us and here is a small attempt to demystify them.

Tambram or Tamil Brahmin is a phrase used to refer to the Brahmins who trace their origin to Tamil Nadu. This is separate from the Palakkad Brahmins who trace their origin to the Palakkad district in Kerala and who were the brahmins who fled Tamil Nadu during Muslim invasions and were given refuge by the then King of Palakkad. While the traditional tambram wedding does not have the typical North Indian ceremonies like Mehendi and Sangeet, today’s wedding traditions have incorporated them and the result is a beautiful fusion of wedding traditions.

Tamil Brahmin wedding rituals are based on the four Vedas – Rig, Yajur, Sama and Atharva. The spiritual symbolism of each ritual remains the most important and though the wedding may seem simple without much pomp, it is religious and very personal. A traditional Iyer wedding is an amalgamation of Vaidika ceremonies which are rituals as per the Vedic scriptures and various other rituals. While the core marriage rituals are Vedic, these are accompanied by a lot of other rituals that are loukika in nature, or not prescribed in the Vedas or the Puranas but are in practice due to popular acceptance over time. These loukika rituals may not be uniformly followed by all brahmin Iyers with customs and practices followed by individual families different.

Decades back, the wedding used to be a four or five-day affair and I remember my grandmothers telling me about their weddings when the whole village came together for a week to celebrate it. But today’s weddings are usually a day and a half, with many only having two half-day ceremonies and merging the previous evening’s ceremony with the reception to save time and money. The following ceremonies are followed by most of the brahmins, but some families may omit certain rituals and others have something slightly different.

Before the actual wedding date, there are pre-wedding rituals that are done after which the wedding takes place.

Nischyadaartham: In most Iyer weddings, the matching of the horoscopes of the bride and the groom is an important step. Once the marriage is fixed, the nischayadaartham or engagement ceremony is held on an auspicious day. Following a pooja invoking the blessings of Lord Ganesha to remove all obstacles, an exchange of coconut and thamboola or betel leaves and areca nuts is done in the presence of elderly members of both families. This ritual is also known as vaang nischaya or committing by word. The reading of the lagna patrika giving details about the date, day, time or the muhurtham and place of the wedding along with family details of the bride and the groom, is then signed by representatives of both the families, usually the fathers. This makes the engagement a written and signed contract and is a later addition to the nischyadaartham and has now become a part of this ceremony, over time.

Sumangali Prarthanai: Sumangali Prarthanai is a prayer done by the married women invoking the blessings of female ancestors, who would have passed away as sumangalis, aka who died before their husbands. Sumangalis, who are invited, are supposed to represent the ancestral sumangalis and are worshipped and fed as per the customs and practices prevalent in individual families. Along with the sumangalis, a kanya or a young girl who has still not attained meranche is also worshipped and partakes in the feast. Usually, the sumangali prarthanai in the bride’s family is done before the wedding so that the daughter, who will be getting married, can be a part of the ceremony and receive blessings. In the case of the groom, it is done immediately after the wedding so that the new daughter-in-law can participate as a sumangali in this ritual. This ritual is usually done before any auspicious event in the family and I had done this before BB’s thread ceremony. Also, it can only be done once a year by a family as a whole, so for multiple weddings or other such ceremonies, only the first one will be counted.

Pongi Podal: The bride and the groom are invited by their respective aunts, which will be the mother’s brothers’ wives or maamis and the father’s sisters or athais and treated to a traditional feast including Pongal and other favourite dishes. This feast is prepared by elders of the family to celebrate and bless the bride and the groom, who will then go on to form a family of their own.

Yatra Daanam: The groom and his family travel to the bride’s place of residence or the venue of the wedding after praying to Lord Ganesha and giving daana or alms to Brahmins to ward off evils. It is also considered auspicious to break a coconut before commencing the trip.

Other than these pre-wedding functions, other smaller functions also take place in the homes of the bride and groom which include praying to kula-devatas or family deities, erecting a panda kaal or a bamboo pole with plantain-covered decorations outside their homes after special prayers for the smooth conduct of the wedding and the applying of mehendi or henna for the bride and other ladies of both the families with the groom also applying some henna symbolically.

Now let’s go to the main ceremonies, which are included in the two-day event

Receiving the groom’s party: In country-side weddings in the olden times, the groom’s party used to be welcomed at the boundary of the bride’s village with the nadaswaram being played. I remember a wedding we went to when I was about six where the bride was my father’s maternal cousin and the bride was his paternal cousin. We initially stayed in a smaller town before going to the village where the wedding was to be held. Almost at the village, my grandfather wondered about the same thing, about whether there would a welcome committee at the entrance of the village since we were the groom’s party at that point. Today, the groom’s party is ceremonially received at the entrance of the wedding venue by the bride’s parents and relatives with coconuts, flowers and a thamboola with two decorated conical structures called paruppu thengai kutti which is made out of jaggery, lentils and coconut.

Vratham: This is a Vedic ritual that involves the groom taking permission from his father who is his first Guru to end his Brahmacharya Vratha or bachelor life and get married to lead the life of a Grihastha. Both the bride and the groom are made to perform certain samskaras or philosophies and a sacred string of protection called Kaapu or raksha is tied to the wrists of the bride and the groom after the chanting of Vedic mantras to protect them from all evil spirits.

The Sprinkling of Paligai: This ritual originally involved planting a row of trees by the families of the bride and the groom. Over time, the actual planting of trees has given way to germinated seeds of nine kinds of pre-soaked grains being sowed in five clay pots each for the bride and the groom’s side. These seeds are sowed into these clay pots along with the sprinkling of milk mixed with water by married women from both families with prayers for a long and happy married life for the couple and blessings for their progeny.

Janavasam: This is when the groom is brought to the mandapam or the wedding hall in a grand procession accompanied by nadaswaram and sometimes the bursting of crackers. In the days gone by, this was a chance for the entire village to see the groom and his family and if anyone had any objections to the groom or his family, they had a chance to let the bride’s family know before the wedding. The rituals done during the nischyadaartham are repeated here and the bride’s brother presents clothes and jewellery to the groom and the groom’s sister does likewise to the bride. Both are then taken to a nearby temple to obtain blessings.

Kasi Yatrai: A very unique ritual amongst the brahmins, in this ritual, the groom carries a bamboo fan, an umbrella, a walking stick, and a grantha or a book of learning like the Bhagavad Gita, wears new slippers, and sets out to go to Kashi or Varanasi for further learning. He is stopped by the bride’s father who requests him to stop travelling for learning and offers to give his daughter in marriage to him so that he can return to be a Grihastha. The groom agrees and returns to the marriage hall for further rituals.

Maalai Matral and Oonjal: After the groom agrees to get married, the bride arrives and garlands are exchanged between the bride and the groom amid cheering by family members. The bride and groom exchange garlands under the guidance of their respective maternal uncles, an important figure in the hierarchy of a Hindu Family.  In the Indian tradition, a garland worn by an individual is generally not worn by another. By making an exception to the rule, the unification of two souls and oneness of the couple brought together by matrimony are highlighted. The bride and groom are carried by their uncles and brothers and each group tries to move away from the garland. Finally, the garlands are exchanged thrice and then the groom leads the bride by holding her hand to a decorated oonjal or swing. The swing symbolises the vicissitudes of life that the couple is expected to face and cope with, in perfect harmony. While they are seated on the swing, married ladies from both families symbolically wash the couple’s feet with milk by sprinkling some milk on their feet and wiping that with the edge of their sarees. At this point in the wedding, the bride and groom are the epitomes of Lord Vishu and his consort, Goddess Lakshmi. The women then wave coloured rice balls around them and throw these balls in all four directions to ward off evil and propitiate the planets and gods representing the directions. The bride and the groom are given a mixture of milk with pieces of bananas. Women of both families sing songs for this occasion. The Oonjal is followed by the vara poojai wherein the bride’s father welcomes the groom and washes his feet with water and the groom begins the marriage rituals with a prayer to Lord Ganesha. The Gothras of the bride and the groom are announced loudly by the priest along with their lineage up to three generations.

Kanya Daanam: The bride sits on the lap of her father, who holds a thamboola or betel leaves and areca nut in his palms. She then places her palms holding a coconut on her father’s palms. As the groom receives the bride’s hand from her father, the bride’s mother pours water over her daughter’s hand, which is made to fall on the ground like a dhaara or stream. This ceremony is called dhaarai vaarthu kodukkal in Tamil. The mantras chanted by the bride’s father symbolise the groom as a personification of Lord Vishnu and Gothra or the lineage of the bride is changed to that of the groom. This can be the equivalent of the western tradition of the father giving away his daughter in marriage. In some families, they also change the name of the bride to symbolise a new beginning. While for most people, it is just symbolic, in some families, the bride will henceforth only be called by her new name.

Maanglya Dhaaranam: The groom gives the ‘koorai podavai’ – a traditional nine-yard saree to the bride that she is supposed to wear to begin her life as the missus. The groom’s sister and other ladies of his family take the bride away to help her drape the ‘koorai podavai’ for the ‘maanglya dhaaranam’. The bride’s father then, once again, washes the feet of the groom and gives him a mixture of curd, honey and ghee. The maangalya or the mangalasutra are twin pieces of gold that is one each from the bride and the groom’s side and is placed on a yellow sacred string. Once the bride is ready in the nine-yard saree, she comes back and sits on the lap of her father and is showered with gifts and blessings. This happens before the couple tie the knot where the priest places a yoke denoting harmony and coordination on the head of the bride upon a sacred grass and the gold mangalyam or the wedding chain. Water is poured amidst the chanting of hymns, praying for her happiness and prosperity. The mangalsutra is tied around the bride’s neck in three knots, the first tied by the groom and the other two knots are tied by the groom’s sister. If the groom does not have a sister, a cousin does the honours. This signifies that the bride is welcomed by the groom’s family with the groom’s sister a representative for her family. This ceremony is performed amidst the chanting of mantras and a crescendo of nadaswaram, ketti melam, akshadhai showers of turmeric smeared rice and flower petals by the family members and friends to bless the couple. I was sobbing during this ritual as it finally hit me that I would be leaving my parents and moving out. I remember S trying to wipe my tears and do the rituals at the same time.

Paanigrahanam and Sapta Padhi: The groom holds the hand of the bride amidst chanting of hymns conveying that the Gods have ordained that they live as man and wife without parting and that the groom leads the life of a householder. The Sapta Padhi or seven steps is vital for the completion of the marriage. The groom takes the right foot of the bride and makes her take seven steps with prayers for her happiness, well-being and prosperity. The chants indicate that each step signifies the essentials of a harmonious life including, food, strength, wealth and prosperity, love and affection, progeny, opportune time and lasting friendship. The bride and the groom circle the Agni and on reaching the ammi kal or grinding stone the groom takes the toe of the bride’s right leg and places it on the stone. This signifies that the bride’s mind should be rock-like, unperturbed by the trials and tribulations of life. When they return to sit in front of the fire, the bride’s brother puts two handfuls of puffed rice in her hands, which is then offered to the Agni by the bride and groom with a small quantity of ghee. This entire ritual is repeated thrice.

Arundhati Nakshatra: Another interesting ritual is when the bride and groom are asked to take a look at the two-star constellation of Arundhati and Vasishtha, part of the bigger Saptarishi or Big Dipper constellation. In this special constellation, the two stars, Arundhati and Vasishtha move in tandem while revolving around each other, just like how a married couple should be. Now the funny thing is that brahmin weddings take place in the morning, and this ritual will come around the end of the wedding rituals, so around or before lunchtime. And one cannot see the stars at this time of the day, so all couples just look confusedly when the priest points to where the stars should be and nod their heads when asked if they saw them.

At the time of completion of chanting of mantras, the groom unties the darbha rope tied around the bride. This is followed by blessings showered upon the newly-married couple by all the elders of both families.

The first visit of the bride to the groom’s place and of the groom to the bride’s place is marked with female relatives giving them paalum pazhamum or a mixture of milk with bananas. A nalangu ritual may be held either at the wedding venue or the groom’s residence, wherein the bride and the groom are made to play some fun games that are more of an ice-breaker between the bride and the groom and also between the bride and her new family. This was relevant in the days when the bride used to be very young and was played so she gets used to the groom. It’s a fun ritual, but not relevant in today’s time, which is why I decided not to have it at my wedding.

For some families, this would be the end of the wedding function, while for others, there would be a reception in the evening where friends and colleagues would also be invited.

The bride then leaves for her marital home, where she will be welcomed with an aarti to ward off all evil and asked to kick a small cup of rice before she enters the home. This is to symbolise the prosperity she will bring with her.

I hope through this post, you got a small idea of how a Tamil brahmin or specifically an Iyer wedding takes place. This post will also help me explain to GG & BB their traditions as they grow older and may want to learn more. Writing this also brought back so many memories, and I relived my wedding which was amazing!

In My Hands Today…

Round Ireland with a Fridge – Tony Hawks

Have you ever made a drunken bet? Worse still, have you ever tried to win one?

In attempting to hitchhike round Ireland with a fridge, Tony Hawks did both, and his foolhardiness led him to one of the best experiences of his life.

Joined by his trusty traveling companion-cum-domestic appliance, he made his way from Dublin to Donegal, from Sligo through Mayo, Galway, Clare, Kerry, Cork, Wexford, Wicklow–and back again to Dublin. In their month of madness, Tony and his fridge met a real prince, a bogus king, and the fridge got christened. They surfed together, entered a bachelor festival, and one of them had sex without the other knowing. And unexpectedly, the fridge itself became a momentary focus for the people of Ireland.

Poem: Ode to a Saree

The saree is a timeless traditional Indian garment which is more or less worn across the country. Each region and state has their speciality and that’s what makes this garment unique. Multiple people will be wearing the same thing, but none of them will be the same. I love to wear sarees, but living outside India, I don’t have as many opportunities to wear them as much as I like. So here’s an ode to that six yards of grace and elegance.

Ode to the Saree

Six yards of pure joy and elegance
Graceful and flowing, full of brilliance
A symbol of a garment’s unwavering importance
Encapsulating the true Indian woman’s essence

Unstitched and long flowing, in multitudes of colours and fabrics
There is saree accounting for all tastes and pocket economics
The saree has stayed its course over centuries
Even today, every Indian woman has many of these beauties

There is a saree that represents every state and region that is a masterpiece
Craftsmen have spent years perfecting their skills and expertise
With embroidery, sequins, motifs, gold borders and intricate pallus
Many sarees have stories to tell, but only if you are not too obtuse

From the Kashida of Kashmir to the Muga of Assam
From Gujarat’s Patola to Tamil Nadu’s Kanjivaram
The saree is even today essential in every bride’s trousseau
The outfit guaranteed to bring out that very special glow

Modest and sexy, feminine and demure
It’s all in the drape you see, that special allure
Timeless in fashion, ancient, yet contemporary
No wonder the saree is a style statement always in trend

In My Hands Today…

Assassination Vacation – Sarah Vowell

With Assassination Vacation, she takes us on a road trip like no other—a journey to the pit stops of American political murder and through the myriad ways they have been used for fun and profit, for political and cultural advantage.

From Buffalo to Alaska, Washington to the Dry Tortugas, Vowell visits locations immortalized and influenced by the spilling of politically important blood, reporting as she goes with her trademark blend of wisecracking humor, remarkable honesty, and thought-provoking criticism. We learn about the jinx that was Robert Todd Lincoln (present at the assassinations of Presidents Lincoln, Garfield, and McKinley) and witness the politicking that went into the making of the Lincoln Memorial. The resulting narrative is much more than an entertaining and informative travelogue—it is the disturbing and fascinating story of how American death has been manipulated by popular culture, including literature, architecture, sculpture, and—the author’s favorite— historical tourism. Though the themes of loss and violence are explored and we make detours to see how the Republican Party became the Republican Party, there are all kinds of lighter diversions along the way into the lives of the three presidents and their assassins, including mummies, show tunes, mean-spirited totem poles, and a nineteenth-century biblical sex cult.

Travel Bucket List: India – Arunachal Pradesh Part 4

Khonsa

A hill station in a valley surrounded by the Himalayas, Khonsa was created during the British colonial rule. It borders Myanmar to the east and Assam in the south and is surrounded by panoramic views of thick forests fringed by hills. Located about 300 km east of Itanagar, Khonsa lies in the Tirap Valley at an average elevation of about 1,215 m above sea level with streams, deep gorges, dense forests and snow-clad hills.

The Khonsa Museum was built in 1956 and houses some amazing artefacts representing the diverse culture of the region. Other than swords and other weapons on display here, one can also find handlooms and artefacts that represent the culture of various parts of India as well as various types of cane and bamboo works. The Kheti and Lajo villages are tribal villages, home to the Nocte, a Wancho tribe that makes up the majority of Khonsa’s inhabitants. Human skulls from the times when the tribes headhunted are hung in the village dormitories to reflect their past. The Khonsa waterfall is located in a dense forest, just a few km from Khonsa and has magnificent views of the forest. The way to the waterfall is very difficult and challenging and it can be only reached with the help of a local guide.

Changlang

Due to the presence of crude oil, coal and mineral resources other than tourism and hydropower, Changlang which lies 324 km east of Itanagar has become an important town in the state. Changlang shares an international boundary with Myanmar and is best known for its bio-diversity and scenic beauty and unique culture.

Visible from the Pangsau Pass, 12 km from Nampong, the Lake of No Return has this name due to the many who perished here. The spot was used for a soft landing for fighter planes during times of war after being hit by enemies with many soldiers losing their lives in the process. Depending on the weather, Nampong has been nicknamed the Hell Pass because of the difficult terrain that worsens during the monsoon season. The Indo-Myanmar border is just 12 km from Nampong where the Lake of No Return is visible. Also known as Ledo Road, Stilwell Road is a historic road as it was connected by the Americans during World War II to connect Ledo to Changlang. The route of the entire road is quite circuitous and covers a challenging path. Popularly known as the Jairampur Cemetery, the World War II Cemetery is located some 25 km from the Indo-Myanmar Border and is where soldiers who died during World War II died. Most of the graves are those which belong to the Chinese, Indian, Kachin and British soldiers, but many graves have been destroyed by wild elephants today.

Miao

Situated 165 km east of Khonsa and about 350 km east of Itanagar, Miao is where Tibetian refugees settled down. It is also the gateway to the Namdapha National Park and an ideal spot for hiking, angling and trekking. The Patkai Bum mountain range, which is an Eastern extension of the Himalayas is what Miao is famous for and the main attractions of the town are the mini zoo and museum. There is also a Tibetan refugee settlement which sells lovely woollen carpets and the tea plantations and opium cultivation farms nearby are also popular.

Anini

A small underdeveloped remote town, Anini lies about 583 km northeast of Itanagar. The Idu Mishmi tribal people constitute a majority here. Anini’s name may have come from Inini or Innini with historical maps of Arunachal Pradesh from times before the Lower Dibang Valley district was carved out of the Dibang Valley District and before Roing was established, indicate the capital of the Dibang Valley District being Inini which have come from the Idu word Inni who is the Idu Mishmi’s supreme deity or God.

The native Idu Mishmis and other tribes were said to have migrated from ancient Tibet in the 1st century. Anini’s importance grew during World War II when supplies and troops needed to be sent to China through the Ledo Road in Assam. In 1947, Anini became a part of India, but became part of the disputed territory claimed by both India and China in 1950. Most of Anini is located on a miniature plateau between two tributaries of the Dibang river, the Dri and the Mathun rivers. The town is located on the Eurasian Plate, about 420 miles north of the junction of the Indian and the Eurasian Plates, which makes Anini earthquake-prone. The Mehao Wildlife Sanctuary nearby is a must-visit while in Anini. Anini is an important stop of the Arunachal Helicopter Service. The service connects the town to the rest of the state as well as to the Dibrugarh airport in Assam. The town is a major stop in both the Eurocopter Dauphin and the MI-172 helicopters’ schedules.

Pasighat

Situated at the eastern foothills of the Himalayas at 155 m above sea level, Pasighat is Arunachal Pradesh’s oldest town. Also known as the Gateway to Arunachal Pradesh, Pasighat is located about 265 km northeast of the capital of Itanagar, the town is also an Advance Landing Ground or ALG of the Indian Air Force.

Pasighat was founded in 1911 by the British colonial government as a gateway to the administrative convenience of the greater Abor Hills and the north area in general and settlements of Adi tribesmen still live in the villages in and around Pasighat. The town is home to the River Brahmaputra which flows down from Tibet and is a photographer’s delight.

A hanging bridge on the Siang River attracts a lot of tourists around the year. Spread over an area of 190 sq km, the Daying Ering Wildlife Sanctuary is covered by alluvial grasslands which form the major area and wooded areas constitute about 15% while the remaining area or about 25% is covered with water bodies and hence attracts many migratory birds from Mongolia and Siberia. The sanctuary itself is surrounded by the Siang or the Brahmaputra River and is home to many endangered bird species.

Around 60 km from Pasighat is where the green water of River Siang meets the blue water of River Siyom and presents a marvellous sight. This is Pangin where one can find many rare plants and herbs of medicinal importance. Kekar Monying is a mountain cliff near Rottung and an important historical place. In 1911, it was here that the Adi tribesmen put up a strong fight against the British. The war was a part of a punitive expedition undertaken by the British for murdering Noel Williamson, a political officer in the previous year by Matmur Jamoh, a native of Yagrung village. Komsing, a village on the left bank of the Siang is the place of Williamson’s murder. A stone epitaph bearing the name of Noel Williamson still lies near the Siang. Komlighat used to be a river port and the ghat marks the area of the colonial town of Pasighat which has been submerged into the Siang river following a flood and the river changing its course. Today, it is a popular evening spot providing a wonderful view of the river and the hills surrounding the Pasighat plains.

The Pasighat Buddhist Temple is located opposite the airstrip and serves as the only Buddhist worship place in Pasighat. The East Siang District Museum also located nearby is the district museum. Pasighat also houses the headquarters of the Adi Baane Kebang, which acts as the de facto cultural parliament governing the cultural, linguistic and traditional aspects of the Adi people.

Aalo

Formerly known as Along, the town of Aalo lies about 365 km northeast of Itanagar and about 220 km from Likabali, at the border of Assam and Arunachal Pradesh. It is also an Advance Landing Ground or ALG of the Indian Air Force. Lying close to several tiny villages, this small town is situated at the congregation of the two rivers, the Sipu and the Yomgo. With blooming orchards of oranges and pleasant cum cool weather, Aalo is best visited in the winter season. River Rafting is a major activity in Along on the Sipu and Yomgo or Siyom Rivers which flow within Aalo. The Kamaki Hydropower Dam should also be visited to take in the gorgeous views from the dam. The Ramakrishna Mission runs a beautiful missionary school in Aalo which is exceedingly pretty and well kept. The Darka Village is a major attraction, especially during the famous Mopin Festival. The village has three rivers running through it making it beautiful.  

Daporijo

Daporijo is a small town on the way from Ziro to Aalo and lies about 270 km northeast of Itanagar and about 165 km northeast of Ziro and about 160 km southwest of Aalo. A small scenic town, Daporijo is situated 600 meters above sea level with the beautiful Subansiri River, a tributary of the Brahmaputra River, flowing through the town. The town is known for its varied ethnic cultures like the Tagin, the Galo the Hilmiri and the Mishmi who are believed to have existed since ancient times. Originally Dapo referred to the protection or a barrier against the epidemic or evil spirits while Rijo stood for the valley, so Daporijo means the valley which stops diseases or evil spirits.

The Meghna cave Temple is dedicated to Lord Lakulisha who was the 28th embodiment of Lord Shiva and the temple is especially crowded during the Maha Shivaratri festival. The temple has some Sanskrit scriptures inside and is well known for the spectacular views surrounding the cave. With beautiful green surroundings and wild animals wandering around, the Kamala Forest Reserve is a protected forest area near Daporijo and is a favourite spot for bird lovers. The Daporijo Good Shepherd Church is a beautiful catholic church under the Itanagar diocese, controlled by tribal bishops. The Subansiri River offers visitors to do rafting which should not be missed.

Anjaw

Located 450 km northeast of Itanagar, Anjaw borders China in the north. India’s easternmost district, Anjaw is also the second least populous district in the country. During the 1962 war, parts of Anjaw were briefly occupied by China and being part of a disputed border region, the area always has an Indian military presence. The Mishmi, and the Zakhring or the Meyor as they were formerly known are the main tribes here. The area is rich in wildlife with some rare mammals and birds found in the region. The small offbeat town is rich in greenery with gleaming waterfalls, beautiful river streams and pine forests.

Kibithoo is located about 100 km northeast of Anjaw about 1305 meters above sea level on the right bank of the River Lohit. Inhabited by the two main tribes of the Zedkring and the Mishmi, the town is surrounded by rivers, waterfalls, and dense forests of pine and berries and makes for a relaxing getaway. Hawai and Hayuliang are two small towns close to Anjaw. Hawai in the Mishmi language means pond and is located 1296 meters above sea level. Hayuliang means a place of my liquor in the Mishmi language and is located 750 meters above sea level and is blessed with gorgeous views of the convergence of the Dalai and the Lohit Rivers.

Walong in the Mishmi dialect means a place full of bamboo and is situated 1094 meters above sea level on the west bank of the Lohit River. Walong holds great historical importance because many Indian soldiers lost their lives here during the 1962 war. Just 20 km from the Indo-Sino border, the town has had a massive Chinese influence. The Namti Valley has a memorial built to commemorate the fallen soldiers of the 1962 war. About 7 km from Walong lies Dong on the left bank of the Lohit River and experiences the earliest sunrise in the country. Numerous pine trees surround this town which is enriched with lush greenery. Situated on the left bank of the Dalai River, 1258 meters above sea level, Chaglogam is a great place for different adventure sports like trekking, angling, rafting and mountain climbing.

Tezu

Arunachal Pradesh’s fifth-largest town and one of its most developed, Tezu lies about 346 km northeast of Itanagar. The recently constructed airport at Tezu will be the first civilian airport in the state. Tezu also has a sizeable population of Tibetan community of about 1500 mostly residing in a settlement known as locally as Lama Camp which is located in Tindolong about 6 km from Tezu. Tezu’s beauty is in full bloom during the festival of Makar Sankranti in January as there is a grand celebration organised by the Mishmi tribe called the Tamladu Festival. People also take a dip in the holy water of the Parshuram Kund in the belief that all their sins get washed away. According to legend, when Parshuram was ordered by his father to kill his mother he threw the axe with a great fury that lead to the formation of this pond and the crack in the earth eventually became the source of the Lohit River

And so we come to the end of a very intriguing and special state, one that I am hopeful I can make a trip to visit and experience.