Travel Bucket List – India: Gujarat Part 3

Central Gujarat is the Gujarati heartland. All the districts in this area share a common culture with no variations in dialect. Important cities in this area include Gujarat’s commercial capital of Ahmedabad, Vadodara, it’s milk capital of Anand, Chhota Udaipur, Dahod, Kheda, Mahisagar, Panchmahal, Nadiad and Mehsana. Let’s start with Ahmedabad, the biggest city in Gujarat.

Ahmedabad
The largest city and former capital of the state, Ahmedabad was previously part of the Bombay Presidency. This city is the fifth most populous city in India and the encompassing urban agglomeration is the seventh-most populous in India. Ahmedabad is located on the banks of the Sabarmati River, 23 km from the state capital Gandhinagar, which is its twin city, but Gandhinagar does not fall under central Gujarat, instead it is counted as a north Gujarat city. Ahmedabad is the second-largest producer of cotton in India, and its stock exchange is the country’s second oldest.

The area around Ahmedabad has been inhabited since the 11th century, when it was known as Ashaval. Ahmedabad is named after the grandson of Muzzafar Shah I, Sultan Ahmed Shah who founded the Muzzaffarid dynasty in early 15th century. Ahmed Shah I laid the foundation of the city on 26 February 1411 and chose it as the new capital on 4 March 1411. During the period of Maratha Empire governance, the city became the centre of a conflict between the Peshwa of Poona and the Gaekwad of Baroda but the the British East India Company took over the city in 1818 during the Third Anglo-Maratha War. A military cantonment was established in 1824 and a municipal government in 1858 and this city which became one of the most important cities in the Gujarat region became a part of the Bombay Presidency. In 1864, a railway link between Ahmedabad and Bombay was established by the Bombay, Baroda, and Central India Railway or BB&CI, enabling traffic and trade between northern and southern India via the city. Over time, the city established itself as the home of a developing textile industry, which earned it the nickname “Manchester of the East”.

The Indian independence movement developed roots in the city when Mahatma Gandhi established two ashrams – the Kochrab Ashram near Paldi in 1915 and the Satyagraha Ashram which is now called the Sabarmati Ashram on the banks of the Sabarmati in 1917 – which would become centres of nationalist activities. In 1930, Gandhi initiated the Salt Satyagraha from Ahmedabad by embarking from his ashram on the Dandi Salt March. Following independence and the partition of India in 1947, the city was scarred by the intense communal violence that broke out between Hindus and Muslims. In 1947, Ahmedabad was the focus for settlement by Hindu migrants from Pakistan, who expanded the city’s population and transformed its demographics and economy.

Early in Ahmedabad’s history, under Ahmed Shah, builders fused Hindu craftsmanship with Persian architecture which gave rise to the Indo-Saracenic style seen in many of the heritage structures in the city.

Ahmedabad is synonymous with the Father of the Nation, Mahatma Gandhi and no visit to Ahmedabad can be complete without a visit to Sabarmati Ashram. Once the residence of Gandhiji and his wife Kasturba, this ashram is located on a tranquil and serene stretch of Sabarmati river. It is commonly believed that Mahatma Gandhi chose this site for it is located between a prison and a cemetery and a Satyagrahi is likely to end up in one of these. In gratitude of the substantial impact Dandi march had on the Indian independence movement, the Indian government has recognised the Sabarmati Ashram as a national monument. While visiting the Ashram, don’t forget to stop by the Upasana Mandir, Magan Niwas, Hriday Kunj, Udyog Mandir and Nandini. The Ashram Museum, Gandhi Smarak Sangrahalaya, includes an art gallery, a library, and the archives, tells you a lot about Gandhi, his family, his ways, revolutionary movements as well as some of Gandhi’s personal letters and photographs which are on display. The ashram is open daily from 8:30 am to 6:30 pm and entry is free.

Ahmedabad is also well known for its temples and mosques. The Swaminarayan temple is a shrine dedicated to Narayan Dev built in 1822 on the instructions of Swaminarayan, who was the founder of the Swaminarayan sect of Hinduism. Embellished with vivid colours and intricate carvings, the temple is a marvellous example of the architecture of the nineteenth century. Beautifully carved out of Burma teak wood, the intricate detailing in the carvings of this temple makes it an engineering masterpiece. The temple is open from 6 am to 7 pm, seven days of the week and entry is free.

Established in 1848, the Hutheesing Jain Temple is is dedicated to Dharmanath, the 15th Tirthankara of Jains, and is among the finest Jain temples in Gujarat. This two-storied elegant white marble structure is home to 11 deity sculptures. The courtyard, is bordered by a row of pergolas that has 52 shrines where each shrine exhibits remarkable designs and intricate carvings. The temple was christened after Sri Hathee Singh and it was made in the same architectural patterns of the Dilwara Jain Temples of Rajasthan.

Popularly known as Sidi Saiyyed Ni Jaali, the Sidi Saiyyed Mosque was built in the year 1573 and is among the last few mosques that were built under the Gujarat Sultanate and was completed in the last year of their reign before the Mughals invaded Gujarat and defeated them. The construction of this fantastic mosque is credited to Sidi Saiyyed in the retinue of Bilal Jhajar Khan, the general in the army of the last Sultan, Shams-Ud-Din Muzaffar Shah III, of the Gujarat Sultanate. The mosque is especially famous for its beautiful ten stone latticework windows, also known as Jalis, on the side and rear arches. The stone slabs are carved in the designs of intertwined trees and foliage with a palm motif. The mosque is now under the care of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). The mosque is open from 7 am to 6 pm and there is no entry fee.

The Jama Masjid in Ahmedabad is one of the largest mosques in India built in around 1424. A beautiful blend of Hindu and Muslim architecture styles, it was constructed with the purpose of serving as a private shrine to the Sultans and took about 13 years to finish. The mosque was built out of stones and rubble rescued from demolished Hindu and Jain temples. The Jama Masjid also houses the tombs of Ahmed Shah I, his son and his grandson followed by the graves of the queens of the king. The facade of Jama Masjid has a huge archway that welcomes you into the main complex. Made out of intricate stonework, the mosque opens into a splendid courtyard with an abulution pool right in the centre. The most striking feature of the construction is its unique meshwork in the main prayer hall, which allows enough illumination into the room without any direct sunlight. The mosque is open all days of the week between 6 am to 8 am and entry is free. Do note that during times of prayers, the doors are closed to visitors.

The Sarkhej Roza is a tomb and mosque complex is an attractive architectural complex which depicts the Islamic style during the Mughal period. This complex is also known as Ahmedabad’s Acropolis as the famous architect Le Corbusier’s compared this mosque’s design to the Acropolis of Athens. Don’t miss the Persian designs of the toms, Ganj Baksh’s Tomb and Sarkhej Lake when you are there. The tomb is open from 9 am to 6 pm with entry being free.

Also known as the Arak Fort, the 44 acre-Bhadra fort comprises of intricate carvings, latticework and frescos alongside arches and inscriptions at the entrance. Built in 1411 by Ahmed Shah I, the walls are said to have been established to protect the Gujarat Sultanate. The fort’s name is said to have come from the Bhadrakali temple installed by the Marathas. This red stone-fort located along the Sabarmati river was revamped by the Ahmedabad Municipal Corporation and the Archaeological Survey of India in 2014. The fort comprises of a majestic palace, a lush green courtyard, and the Bhadrakali temple. Popular belief says that Goddess Lakshmi once stepped into the Bhadra Fort and blessed the Sultan that his city was to always remain wealthy and affluent. Even today it is believed that there are statshes of hidden wealth buried deep within the fort. Don’t miss the Royal Square, the Azam Khan Sarai, Clock Tower, Nagina Baugh, Maidan-e-Shah and the gardens within the fort. The fort is open from 9 am to 5 pm, all days of the week and entry to the fort is free.

Located at the eastern end of the Bhadra Fort, the Teen Darwaza holds historical significance as it used to bracket the Maidan Shahi palace. The gateway essentially opened into the fort’s Royal Square which organised games, processions and events. Besides being the city’s longest and oldest gateway, the Teen Darwaza is also featured on the emblem of the Ahmedabad Municipal Corporation. An architectural marvel in every sense, the Teen Darwaza is made of stunning arched gates and was established in 141 A.D. by the founder of Ahmedabad city Sultan Ahmed Shah. The arch is open 24 hours of the day, seven days of the week and you don’t have to pay anything to view this magnificent structure.

Kankaria Lake is the second largest lake in Ahmedabad and was formerly known as Hauz-e-Qutub. Bulit in the 15th century, this pristine lakefront is popular among locals for an evening stroll because of the multi-coloured lights glowing all around its periphery. The lake also has a balloon safari, zoo, toy trains and an amusement park. The Kankaria carnival is usually celebrated as a week-long festival during the last week of December and is filled with many cultural, art and social activities. The lake is open from 9 am to 10 pm every day and you need to pay INR 10 for an adult and INR 5 for a child to enter the premises.

A lush green and well maintained garden, the Law Garden is frequented by locals and tourists alike. The garden is famous for its night market where one can find intricate traditional work and is a great place to buy traditional Gujarati apparel, accessories, ornaments and handicraft with traditional handiwork on them. This place is also well known for its street food and foodies will be spoilt for choice here.

The Sabarmati Riverfront is a waterfront developed on the banks of river Sabarmati. It was initiated with the objective for sustainable development and environmental improvement, but this riverfront has now become a major tourist attraction owing to its lush green promenades, beautiful parks and plazas and an all-around soothing ambience.

Also known as the Bai Harir Stepwell, the Dada Harir Vav is among the two famous stepwells in this region. The stepwell was built in 1485 by Dhai Harir, a household lady of Mahmud Begada according to the Persian inscription in the stepwell who was the superintendent of the royal harem. This octagonal stepwell designed in sandstone is a remanence of the Solanki style of architecture with intricate carvings and the stunning architecture of a bygone era. The stepwell has seven levels and is a great source of water conservation. Located right behind the grave of Dhai Harir, this unique construction showcases three stairways to the bottom of the well from the first storey. The whole structure of the Dada Harir Wav is a masterpiece of Gujarati design and intricate artistry in stone. The well bears two inscriptions, one in Sanskrit on the south, and one in Arabic on the north wall, of the first gallery. The Vav is open from 9 am to 5 pm and is free to visitors.

The Jhulta Minar or shaking minarets are among one of the most intriguing architectural wonders you can see. Originally part of the Sidi Bashir Mosque, only the central gateway and two minarets survive. The minarets are the tallest in Ahmedabad and though much damaged, especially near the foot, the stairs inside the minarets may still be used. The minarets are three stories tall with carved balconies. A gentle shaking of either minaret results in the other minaret vibrating after a few seconds, though the connecting passage between them remains free of vibration. The mechanism of this is not known, although the layered construction is thought to be a factor. The minarets are also able to withstand fast-moving trains passing close by. The minar is open from 5:30 am to 9 pm, with no entry fee, though entry was prohibited following an 1981 incident at the Qutub Minar in Delhi, when a stampede resulted in the deaths of many children. There is also damage to the upper sections.

Abbreviated as L.D Museum, the Lalbhai Dalpatbhai Museum, established in 1984 has Indian sculptures, bronzes, manuscripts, paintings, drawings, miniature paintings, woodwork, beadwork and ancient and contemporary coins. An outcome of the visions of Muni Punyavijayaji, an erudite monk scholar and Sheth Kasturbhai Lalbhai, the well-known industrialist of Ahmedabad, the museum is located on the premises of the L.D. Institute of Indology. All the major regional styles of the sub-continent find their place on the ground floor in Madhuri D. Desai Gallery. The museum has finest paintings in Gujarati Jaina Style, some of which are older than Mughal Period. The paintings find their place on the 1st floor of the Museum Building. In its eastern wing of the Muni Punyavijayaji Gallery, there is a section displaying the Leelavati Lalbhai Woodwork Collection. The museum houses 76,000 handwritten Jain Manuscripts, including 500 illustrated versions and 45,000 printed books, making it the largest collection of Jain scripts. The old books are written in languages such as Sanskrit, Pali, Old Gujarati, Apabhramsa, Hindi and Rajasthani. The museum is open on all days, except on Mondays and public holidays, from 10:30 am. to 5:30 pm. Entry is free in the museum.

The Calico Museum of Textile managed by the Sarabhai Foundation, is one of the oldest textile museums in the country and comprises exclusive collections of various textiles, fabrics and artefacts; rare collections of antique textiles; spectacular samples of Kashmir shawls; tie and dye fabrics; and relics from various parts of the country that makes it one of the best places for those interested in the history of fabrics and clothing. Don’t miss the exlusive collections of bronze, pichwai paintings, Jain art items, Indian miniature paintings, tribal art and handicrafts which are displayed in the museum. The museum is open from 10 am to 12:30 pm and then again from 2:45 pm to 4:30 pm every day of the week except Wednesdays with free entry into the museum.

Designed by the famous Le Corbusier, Sanskar Kendra is a city museum depicting history, art, culture and the architecture of Ahmedabad. A Patang or Kite Museum is also located next door, which includes a collection of kites, photographs, and other artifacts. Visiting this museum will give you a glimpse of the the living heritage of the city and its glorious past. Make sure you check out the photographs related to history of city, art, photography, Mahatma Gandhi, the Indian independence struggle and the various religious communities of Ahmedabad. The museum also houses the tallest incense stick of the world at 4.5 m long. Entry is free to this museum which is open on all days of the week from 10 am to 6 pm.

The Vechaar Utensils Museum is a unique and exclusive showcase depicting an centuries old antique collection of utensils and pots that have been picked from all over the country. Built in 1981, this one of a kind museum has a collection of over 4,500 exhibits and aims at preserving the evolution of Indian utensils over time. You need to pay INR 30 per adult and INR 10 for children aged 3 to 11 yearsto access the exhibits which remain open from 3 to 10:30 pm on all days except Mondays. Please note that foreigners pay more which is INR 100 per person and if you want to carry your camera or mobile phone inside, you need to pay an extra INR 100. If you plan on making videos inside the museum, it will cost you an extra INR 500 per video camera.

Lothal
One of the southernmost cities of the ancient Indus Valley Civilization, Lothal was located in the Bhal region in present day Gujarat and first inhabited from 3700 BC. Discovered in 1954, Lothal was excavated by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), and was said to have had the world’s earliest known dock, which connected the city to an ancient course of the Sabarmati river on the trade route between Harappan cities in Sindh and the peninsula of Saurashtra when the surrounding Kutch desert of today was a part of the Arabian Sea. Lothal was a vital and thriving trade centre in ancient times, with its trade of beads, gems and valuable ornaments reaching the far corners of West Asia and Africa. The techniques and tools they pioneered for bead-making and in metallurgy have stood the test of time for over 4,000 years.

Lothal, which means “Mount of the Dead” is located near the village of Saragwala about 85 km southwest of of Ahmedabad on the banks of the ancient mythical river Saraswati which has now dried up or gone underground as it is commonly understood, the nearest cities to Lothal are Dholka and Bagodara. Adjacent to the excavated areas stands the Archaeological Museum, where some of the most prominent collections of Indus-era antiquities in India are displayed. This site has been nominated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Vadodara
Known as Baroda during the British times, Vadodara is known as a Sanskari Nagari or traditional city of India. The city used to be called Chandanavati after its ruler Raja Chandan of the Dodiya of Rajputs. The capital was also known as Virakshetra or Viravati or the Land of Warriors. Later, it was known as Vadpatraka or Vadodara, which according to tradition is a corrupt form of the Sanskrit word vatodar meaning in the belly of the Banyan tree. In 1974, the official name of the city was changed to Vadodara.

The Navratri festival celebrated in Vadodara in the months of October/November are famous throughout India. The festival is celebrated with a lot of exuberance in this city and one should not leave the city without shaking a leg in its traditional dance forms of Garba and Dandiya. If you plan on visiting this city during this time, make sure you are there during Navratri and can check out the amazing and huge dance floors in the city. The picture above is the largest garba stadium and the small images inside the photo are the hundreds of thousands of people all dancing together.

The Laxmi Vilas Palace is the one thing you must visit while in Vadodara, if not anything else. Built in the Indo-Saracenic school of architecture, the Laxmi Vilas Palace is almost four times the size of Buckingham Palace and was the private residence of Maharaja Sayajirao Gaekwad III. The royal family of the Gaekwads still reside today in private parts of the palace. Constructed in in 1890 and taking nearly twelve years to complete, the palace complex sprawls over an area of about 700 acres. It is built in the Indo-Saracenic style which is a hybrid of the Hindu, Gothic and Mughal architectural forms with the presence of domes, minarets and arches. The palace incorporates several important buildings within, including the Moti Baug Palace, the Maharaja Fateh Singh Museum building and the LVP Banquets & Conventions building.

The Maharaja Fateh Singh Museum building was mainly constructed as a school for the Maharaja’s children. Today, it houses an extraordinary collection of sculptures and paintings by Raja Ravi Verma and various other artefacts gathered from all around the world, including several portaits of the royal family. The oriental gallery present inside the museum comprises of Chinese as well as Japanese sculptures. An excellent audio tour with free drink and snack are included in the ticket price.

The Makarpura Palace was initially constructed as a summer palace for the royal family of the Gaekwads. Built in 1870 and given an Italian touch in terms of architecture, it was renovated years after it was built because the palace was left unused as the royal family preferred spending most of their summers in the relatively cooler Nilgiris in Tamil Nadu. It now serves as a training school called No.17 Tetra School used by the Indian Air Force.

Believed to be used to collect tolls from merchants and traders, the Mandvi Gate is located at the exact centre of the old walled city. A pavilion or Mandapa, standing at the crossing of of the two cardinal streets of the old city, the structure is actually part of a larger building scheme, the “Killa-e-Daulatabad”. The fort is supposed to have been designed and constructed by Rumin Khan and based on the design of a Chopat or Ludo game. The square was cut into four more squares by two major streets and aligned with the cardinal directions. The fort walls were pierced with four gates, one on each side where the streets intersected with the wall. At the intersection of these cardinal streets, at the centre of the square, Mandvi Gate was built. The entire structure is illuminated during festivals and is truly a sight to behold.

Maharaja Sayajirao Gaekwad III had an entire monument built to commemorate the cremation of his family members. This monument was called the Kirti Mandir. Widely known as the Temple of Fame, this structure was constructed also to celebrate the fifty years of his mighty administration. One of the carvings on the cenotaph makes one reminisce about the good old days, where India was not divided into so many states and territories, due credit to the undivided map of India displayed on the central arch. The 33 m high central arch is also ornamented with the sun, the moon and the earth and the rooms behold the sculptures and photographs of the members of the Gaekwad family.

Constructed by the Gaekwads in 1894, the Vadodara Museum and Picture Gallery is host to umpteen numbers of relics relating to a wide spectrum of fields right from archeology to geology. It also houses a few rare personal collection pieces of Maharaja Sayajirao III. Some of the most noteworthy relics include the 109 miniature paintings of the Mughal times, a Persian version of Mahabharata specially commissioned by Mughal Emperor Akbar and a 11th century Shiva in the Natraja pose, amongst others.

Sayaji Baug or Gardens, was dedicated to Maharaja Sayajirao Gaekwad III by Maharaja Sayajirao Gaekwad III himself. It is the most extensive garden in India’s western region and sprawls over 45 hectares of land. The garden was built in 1879 on the banks of the river Vishwamitri, and it comprises of a broad spectrum of flora, with more than 99 species of trees. The park also houses two museums, a planetarium, a zoo, a toy train for children and a flower clock. This park is a popular hangout for locals, especially during weekends.

Decked with green manicured lawns and towering palm trees, the crowd puller at the Ajwa Nimeta Garden is the 100-meter row of perfectly aligned musical fountains that mesmerise visitors with coordinated water shoots in the background of lively colours.

Located at a distance of about 90 km from Varoda in the heart of the Shoolpaneshwar Wildlife Sanctuary, the perennial and gorgeous Zarwani Waterfalls provide you an opportunity to trek, picnic, and indulge in wildlife photography.

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Deserted today, the city of Champaner provides a glimpse of the kind of prosperity which must have existed at one point of time. Located in the foothills of Pavagadh, the Champaner-Pavagadh Archaeological Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that rests on a rocky hilltop and is dotted with mosques, forts, temples and palaces. The architecture of many old mosques reflect a blend of Islamic and Jain tradition. You also come across various heritage monuments belonging to the 16th century including mosques, temples, fortresses and palaces, among others. Some of the famous attractions worth checking out are the Jama Masjid, the Lila Gumbaj ki Masjid, the Lakulisa Temple, Pavagadh Fort and the Helica step-well. The hill of Pavagadh is believed to be a chunk of the Himalayas that was originally carried by Hanuman to Lanka in the Hindu mythological epic, the Ramayana.

Anand
Known as the Milk Capital of India, Anand came into the nation’s conscious when it became famous for Amul dairy and its milk revolution spearheaded by Dr. Verghese Kurien.

The Anand Milk Union Limited or Amul is a brand name that every Indian knows and has tasted. The Amul Chocolate Factory Dairy is a great place to revisit your childhood for adults and for children to believe they are in Willy Wonka’s world. You can see what goes behind making chocolate from all the stages of chocolate production, right from the earliest of stages to packaging. The factory also has a museum known as AMUL Co-operative Museum which has an exhibition, tracing down the storied past of one of the country’s greatest institutions and takes the visitor down the history of one of India’s best loved brands. It shows the advanced pasteurization methods of milk and the production of processed food. The museum is part of the history and heritage of Anand and has a photo gallery as well as an auditorium with a capacity to seat hundred people which showcases documentaries that take one back to its origins in the 1960s.

The Sun Temple at Borsad in Anand is dedicated to the Sun God. People believe that visiting and praying in this temple relives visitots from ailments which might cause unhappiness. The history behind this temple is a bit vague, but is believed that the temple was built at the insistence of the Sun God himself.

2020 week 18 Update

Singapore is done with four weeks of the circuit breaker and we head out to another four weeks from tomorrow. Cases, esepcially from the community and those from the dorms have reduced slightly and as of last night, we were at about 17,500 cases in total.

The children are done with week 2 of their home based learning and things are heating up slightly. One is always studying and the other barely bothers. When asked, says that they have done their work. S and I are sometimes flabbergasted that both are studying in the same year in poly, albeit in different polys and studying different subjects.

Otherwise things are the same day in and day out. Some days, when I wake up in the morning, I need to think for a few seconds before I figure out which day of the week it is. I am also attending some free webinars which is interesting and work is going on.

Life as we know it will be completely different once the world recovers from the panademic. This time has shown everyone that working from home is possible and people can be productive even at home. I am hopeful that once things start to go back to normal (or as normal we it can be), employers will be more receptive to people’s reasons for working from home.

Stay home and stay safe people!

In My Hands Today…

They All Fall Down – Rachel Howzell Hall

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It was supposed to be the trip of a lifetime.

Delighted by a surprise invitation, Miriam Macy sails off to a luxurious private island off the coast of Mexico, with six strangers—an ex-cop, a chef, a financial advisor, a nurse, a lawyer, a young widow.

Surrounded by miles of open water in the gloriously green Sea of Cortez, Miriam is shocked to discover that she and the rest of her companions have been brought to the remote island under false pretenses—and all seven strangers harbor a secret.

Danger lurks in the lush forest and in the halls and bedrooms of the lonely mansion. Sporadic cell-phone coverage and miles of ocean keeps the group trapped in paradise. And strange accidents keep them suspicious of each other, as one by one . . .

They all fall down

Travel Bucket List: India – Gujarat Part 2

South Gujarat, also known as Dakshin Gujarat is one of the wettest regions of India. The western part is almost coastal and is known as Kantha Vistar or coastal expanse in Gujarati, and the eastern part is also known as Dungar Vistar or hilly expanse, which ranges from 100 to 1000 metres, with the highest peak at Saputara in the Dang district. South Gujarat also has many towns which are probably familiar names to many people in Mumbai. Having done my entire schooling in a Parsi school, many of the towns show where the ancestors of classmates, friends and even teachers came from. So you have someone whose last name is Ankleshwaria whose ancestors definitely were from Ankleshwar, a Barucha who has roots in Baruch, an Udwadia from the holy town of Udvada, a Bulsara who came from Valsad and a Vapivala from the town of Vapi!

Surat
Also known as the Diamond City of India, Surat will be one of the world’s fastest growing cities between 2019 to 2035 according to a study conducted by the Economic Times. This port city and the commercial and economic centre of South Gujarat is is famous for its diamonds and textile Industries and as a shopping centre for apparels and accessories. It is the eighth largest city and ninth largest urban agglomeration in India and is located on the south bank Tapi river, about 14 km to the Arabian Sea. This city has has always attracted traders and merchants from afar. Its finely carved mosques, Parsi agiaris, European tombs and colonial houses all testify to the eclectic mix of ethnic communities that continue to live in the city. Surat is first major city en route to Gujarat from Mumbai, and makes a good base to explore southern Gujarat. Surat was once renowed for its silk weaving and brocade. The city still thrives as a textile center, mainly for its polyster fabrics. As the textile industries declined in Ahmedabad and Mumbai in the 1970s, Surat became one of Gujarat’s fastest growing cities and gave rise to several small scale industries.

So what can you see in and around Surat?

Dumas Beach – This urban beach located along the Arabian Sea, is located around 21 km southwest of Surat city. Because of high concentrations of iron, the sand in this beach takes on almost black colour. The beach also has stories about paranormal activities and hauntings and is said to be one of the most haunted places in India.

Suvali Beach – A calm and serene beach, the Suvali Beach is around 20 km west of Surat on the shore of the Arabian Sea, Though not as popular with locals, this beach is slowly developing into a tourist spot. This beach is also a black sand beach with the sand being of soft texture. Since there are not many people visiting the beach, you get to relax and experience solitude there. There are no vendors or restaurants situated near the beach thereby providing you with complete isolation.

Dabhari Beach – Located at a distance of 33 kms northwest of Surat, Dabhari Beach is one of the hidden gems of the state. Boasting of soft shiny sand, alluring sunrise and sunset views of the Arabian Sea, the beach has a lengthy coastline which is ideal for romantic walks along the shore. In addition, there are several shacks on the beach which sell food and drink. This beach is devoid of tourists and is a place where mostly locals flock to, so you will more or less have a section of the beach to yourself. Nearby is the Maa Khodiyar Temple nearby If you wish to visit.

Surat Castle – Dating back to the 16th century, Surat Castle or Surat Fort was constructed by Safi Agha, a Turkish soldier who had been enobled with the title of Khudawand Khan under orders of the Ahmedabad king Sultan Mahmood III who ruled between 1538 to 1554 against frequent Portugese incursions into the city. This structure sits on the banks of the river Tapi and is now filled with government offices, but you can go up to the top for a marvelous view of the city and Tapi river.

Chintamani Jain Temple – One of the oldest Jain temples in Surat, Chintamani temple was built in 1699 AD during the rule of Aurangzeb. During 12th century AD, there ruled a king called Kumarpal. He belonged to the Solanki dynasty and kept Acharya Hemachandraji as his advisor. The Acharya was a Jain preacher, poet and philosopher, and under the rule of Kumarpal there was overall prosperity in the kingdom. The Chintamani temple is said to be constructed to honour those great people. The temple has some intricately and beautifully carved designs on the wood with the ceilings showcasing paintings made from natural vegetable colour. The paintings depict Acharya Hemachandraji, King Kumapal and other Solanki kings. Apart from the being a religious place of worship, this Jain temple is also a specimen of the art of the 17th century. It is a clean, well-maintained and peaceful temple with religious, meditative, artistic and historic feel to it.

Sardar Vallabhai Patel Museum and Planetarium – Also known as the Sardar Sangralaya, this museum was established in 1889, and the collection represents the rich history and eclectic ethnic mix of Surat. It also provides maps for travelers. The musem is open from 9 am to 11:30 am and then again from 2:30 pm to 5pm every day except Sundays and public holidays. The Planetarium runs a show on the universe in Gujarati from 11:15 am to 1:45 pm from Wednesday to Saturday and then again from 2:45 pm to 5:45pm on Sundays and Tuesdays. The museum and planetarium are closed on Mondays.

Other smaller towns in South Gujarat include

Vapi
Situated near the banks of the Damanganga River, around 28 km south of Valsad, the town of Vapi is surrounded by the Union Territory of Dadra and Nagar Haveli and Daman and Diu. The town originally belonged to the Kshatriya Jagirdar family Palande during the Maratha empire, who now reside in Dungra. After independence from the British Crown in 1951, the jagirdar system was abolished by the Indian government and the community of Anavil Brahmin who formerly acted as tax farmers during the era of the Maratha empire received the land. It is believed that city got its name from the old small stepwell situated near the Balitha area. The meaning of the word Vapi in sanskrit is a water reservoir or a water storage body.

Vapi is also Known as the City of Chemicals, it is the largest industrial area in Gujarat in terms of small-scale industries, dominated by the chemical industry and because of this is among the most polluted places in India. This pollution is caused mainly because of the poor air and water quality in the town which is due to the chemical factories in the area.

You can make day trips to the union terrotiries of Daman and Diu which is less than a thirty minute drive from Vapi as well as Dadra and Nagar Haveli which is around an hour’s ride away. Other places to visit in Vapi include the GIDC Garden on the banks of the Damanganga river, the rustic Jerome fort,

Udvada
The town of Udvada, around 14 km from Vapi is the holiest places for the Parsi community. This town is renowned for its Zoroastrian Atash Behram, the oldest functioning Parsi fire temple where it is said the same flame burns which the first Parsi immigrants brought with them when they fled persecution in Iran and landed in Gujarat. Udvavd literally stands for grazing ground of camels, which was actually the town`s condition, prior to becoming a fishing village.

The importance of Udvada in Parsi history and religion centres around the Atash Behram (from Middle Persian Atash Warharan for “Victorious Fire”, the highest grade of ritual fire of the Zoroastrians) housed in the fire temple there.

The Udvada Atash Behram is the most sacred of the Zoroastrian fire temples in India and the oldest continuously burning fire-temple fire in the world. The Udvada Atash Behram is one of nine Atash Behrams worldwide, eight of which are in western India (four in Mumbai, two in Surat, one in Navsari, and the one in Udvada), and one of which is in Yazd, in central Iran.

The fire at the Udvada Atash Behram is called as the “Iranshah Fire”, so called because it was consecrated to be the earthly representative of Yazdegerd III, the last Zoroastrian king of Iran.

The ceremonies in Udvada are held on the ninth day of the ninth month in the Shahenshahi or imperial version of the Zoroastrian calendar. Pilgrims from all over the world visit the temple on that day. According to tradition and later as a result of legal verdict, nine priestly families of Sanjan and their heirs are the sole lawful guardians of the fire and its temple. They alone have the right to enjoy its income. The position of high priest passes in turn from the head of one family to the head of another.

Udvada also hosts a Zoroastrian heritage museum, sponsored by the Government of Gujarat. This museum contains summaries of the teachings and beliefs of Lord Ahura Mazda, as well as has a large write up that tells you about the history of the Parsis and Ahura Mazda. It also has explanations and write ups on the holy ceremony of the Parsis called Navjot, which is a baptism into the Parsi faith, which every Parsi child undergoes before they hit puberty.

Since the Parsi fire temple is open only to adherents of the faith, there’s not much to do in Udvada unless you are a Parsi. You can walk around the town and eat delicious Parsi food. This town can be done as a day trip from Vapi, Valsad and Surat.

Valsad
Historically known as Bulsar, Valsad is the district headquarters of Valsad district. The name “Valsad” is derived from vad-saal, a Gujarati language compound meaning “hampered (saal) by banyan trees (vad)” as this area was naturally rich in banyan trees. During the British colonial rule, Valsad was known as “Bulsar”. Earlier a village, Valsad was made the district headquarters during the Bombay Presidency, and was later governed under Bombay State, finally becoming part of the Gujarat state.

Prominent places of interest in the town include the Tithal Beach which is situated on the coastline and is famous for its black sand. It is a popular tourist destination in south Gujarat. Tithal Beach Festival and International Kite Festivals are also organized on the shore of the beach which are famous in this part of Gujarat. The Shree Shirdi Saibaba Sansthapan which is located on the shore of the Tithal beach was established in 1982 and is a famous local place of worship. The Shantidham Aradhana Kendra also in Tithal is famous for those who want to achieve mental peace and spiritual experience among the monks. The Tadkeshwar Mahadev Temple which is an ancient temple over 800 years old, is a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva and is located in Abrama. The Nargol Beach close to Valsad is one of those rare unexplored beauty-spots. This secluded beach, probably one of the few undiscovered spots in the tourist itinerary, has lush palm trees and greenery all around, making entire surrounding gorgeous. Stretches of sands, dotted with graceful casuarinas trees, the soft gentle waves crashing on the shore along with the pacific breeze, makes the surroundings cosmic paradisaical.

Bilimora
Situatied on the banks of the river Ambika, Bilimora lies about 25 km south of the district headquarters of Navsari. In the late 18th century, the Baroda State established a naval station at Bilimora, a port about 40 miles or 64 km south of Surat, known as Bunder Bilimora Suba Armor. A fleet of 50 vessels was stationed here, mostly sailboats, cargo vessels for trading and military vessels to secure the sea from the Portuguese, the Dutch and the French.

In addition to having Parsi settlements, and the tasty bakery goods that are a natural consequence, it is also a centre for the forest produce of the neighbouring district of Dang and is an important railway junction for travel to the mountain area of Saputara.

Bilimora is a small city with lot of temples, such as the Shri Jalaram Mandir, Shri Gayatri Mandir, Shri Dwarkadhish Mandir, the Swaminarayan Mandir, the Ganga Mata Temple, Shri Ramji Mandir at Talodh, the Somnath Mahadev Mandir and a Sikh Gurudwara on Gandevi Road. Saputara, the only hill station in Gujarat, is around 110 km away from Bilimora. One can visit Waghai, Saputara, Gira Falls in Dang District, India via a day road trip from Bilimora.

The Unai hot springs is another popular place in this area. Many local people believe in the legend of Lord Sri Rama which is linked to the hot springs reservoirs.

Navsari
Located about 30 kms south of Surat and on the banks of the river Purna, Navsari is an important commercial centre in south Gujarat. This city is also called a twin city to Surat and people live in Navsari and travel to Surat to work and vice versa. Originally known as ‘Navasarika’ and the capital of a vishya or administrative unit in the Lata region, NAvsari is also identified with ‘Nusaripa’, a city mentioned in Ptolemy’s 2nd century Greek-language work Geography. The Chalukyas of Navasarika, who governed the area around Navsari as subordinates of the Chalukyas of Vatapi, repulsed an Umayyad invasion of the area in 738-739.

Historically, the first settlement of the Parsis took place in Navsari in 1142. Two families of Parsi Zoroastrian priests settled in Navsari in the early 13th century, and the town soon emerged as the major centre of the Parsi priesthood and religious authority. As Parsi communities grew in other places in India, the priests from Navsari were sought by the new Parsi settlements. Surat replaced Navsari as the principal settlement of the Parsi community in the 18th century, following its rise as a major trade centre for the European factories, and the Maratha incursions into Navsari. Surat itself lost this position to Bombay in the later years. The pioneer of the Indian steel industry and the founder of the House of Tatas, Mr.Jamshedji Tata was born in Navsari. The house where he was born is well preserved and recommended for a visit.

The Meherjirana library is one of the oldest libraries in south Gujarat. It was established by the first Dastur or Parsi priest Meherjirana, who was also born in Navsari. He was invited by emperor Akbar in a religious programme organized by the Mughal emperor. Leaders of all religious groups participated in it. Akbar asked them to start a conversation and eventually asked them to give information about their religions. All the religious leaders gave information about their religions and gradually tried to show their religions as great except Dastur Meherjirana. Afterward, the leaders asked Akbar his opinion as to whose religion is great. Akbar was really impressed by Dastur Meherjirana, so he asked him. Meherjirana Dastur calmly replied, “All religions are equal in terms of strength and ideology and principle”. Akbar was extremely impressed by his personality. He donated a piece of land to Dastur Meherjirana in Navsari, where today the Meherjirana Library stands. Emperor Akbar wrote on a scroll about the donation of land which is still preserved by the management of the library.

Dandi Beach is immortalised in Indian history where Mahatma Gandhi ended the Dandi March also known as the Namak Satyagraha or Salt non-violent protest and picked up a pinch of salt in protest of the salt tax and the British rule and started his civil disobedience movement which eventually led to Indian independence, the Dandi beach lies about 21 km west of Navsari and around 49 km southwest of Surat. Great for a quick, yet not far weekend getaway from Surat, the sand in this serene and pristine beach which goes as far as your eyes can see makes a beautiful contrast against the blue sky.

Ajmalgadh is a cave surrounded by hills and forests lying between Valsad and Navsari. During times of persecution, the Parsis fled to the forest in the hills of Ajmaldadh to save and protect their sacred fire-cauldron for nearly 250–350 years. Recently, local administration constructed a pillar on the hill of Ajmalgadh describing the story. They also closed the cave which was used to protect the holy fire.

Source

Bharuch
Bharuch formerly known as Broach lies on the mouth of the Narmada river and is the administrative headquarters of Bharuch District. The oldest city of Gujarat and the second second-oldest city of India having continuous inhitations, Bharuch has a known history for about 8000 years. Bharuch was a ship building centre and sea port in the pre-compass coastal trading routes to points west, perhaps as far back as the days of the pharaohs. Bharuch was known to the Greeks, the various Persian Empires, in the Roman Republic and Empire, and in other Western centres of civilisation through the end of the European Middle Ages. In the 3rd century, Bharuch port was mentioned as Barugaza. Arab traders entered Gujarat via Bharuch to trade and the British and the Dutch took note of Bharuch’s importance and established their business centres here. At the end of the 17th century, it was plundered twice, but resurged quickly. Afterwards, a proverb was composed about it, “Bhangyu Bhangyu Toye Bharuch”, which translates to “Although battered and shattered at by the tidal waves of time, it is still Bharuch”. As a trading depot, the limitations of coastal shipping made it a regular terminus via several mixed trade routes of the fabled spice and silk trading between East and West. During the British Raj it was officially known as Broach.

Bharuch derives its name from the great sage Bhrigu. The original name of Bharuch is ‘Bhrigukachchha’. Bhrigu Rishi was one of the ten sons of Lord Brahma. There is also a story which indicates that Brighu along with his kins asked for temporary access to Bharuch which then belonged to Lakshmi since Bharuch is located on the banks of river Narmada also known as Rudra Deha. Brighu never left the place and the Ashram of Brighu Rishi is located on the banks of Narmada. Bharuch has been the home to the Gujarati Bhargav Brahmin community for eons. The community traces its lineage to Maharshi Bhrigu rishi and Bhagwan Parshuram who is considered to be an incarnation of Lord Vishnu. The Bhargav community still administers a large number of public trusts in the city, but the numbers have reduced due to migrations over the years. Bharuch finds its mention in major Hindu scriptures, such as Bhagavata Purana, Shiva Purana, Skanda Purana, Kurma Purana, Matsya Purana, Ramayana and Mahabharata. Because of the distinctive colour of its soil, ideal for cotton cultivation, Bharuch is sometimes referred to as ‘Kanam Pradesh’ or black-soil land.

Places of interest in and around the city include the Bhrigu Rishi Temple located in the east of the city on the banks of the river Narmada. This temple is one of the most sacred temples in the state as the city’s name is derived from this temple. It is believed that it was at this temple that Rishi Bhrigu wrote the first Indian Astrological work, Bhrigu Samhita which documented five million horoscopes, in which he wrote down the fate of every being in the universe.

One of India’s most sacred rivers, the river Narmada flows through the city and it is believed that a dip in the Narmada river washes ones sins away, and that her divine sight alone makes one pure. According to a legend, the river Ganges is polluted by millions of people bathing in it. To cleanse herself, Ganges acquires the form of a black cow and comes to the Narmada to bathe in its holy waters. Legends also mention that the Narmada River is older than the river Ganges.

The Swaminarayan Temple in the city is a 175-year-old temple and hosts a palette of colours on its walls. The Narmada Mata Temple, close by is a 150-year-old temple dedicated to the Goddess Narmada. The Vaishnav Haveli enshrines an idol of Bal Krishna or baby Krishna and is said to have come from Mathura in 1725.

The Soneri Mahal or Golden Palace is a 1000 year old fort built by King Siddhraj Jaysinh, the then king of Gujarat. The fort is situated on a hill top which overlooks the Narmada river. Within the fort are the Collector’s office, Civil Courts, the Old Dutch factory, a church, the Victoria Clock tower and other buildings. Today the place where Goddess Lakshmi was supposed to have lived is a police station!

A unique feature of Bharuch is the Meghraja festival celebrated in the month of Shravan, sometime in August-September for 25 days. A 5.5 feet idol of Meghraj or the King of the Gods, Lord Indra is prepared from the soil of Narmada river and is worshiped for 25 days. A fair is organised during the last 4 days of this festival. This festivel is celebrated only in Bharuch and nowhere else in India.

Bharuch hosts one of the oldest libraries of Gujarat, the Raichand Deepchand Library, started in 1858. It has a collection of around 200,000 books.

Kabirvad is a small island about 16 km east of the city of Bharuch rumoured to be Saint Kabir’s residence several hundred years ago. Located along the banks of the river Narmada, the main attraction here is a gigantic banyan tree covering an area of more than 2.5 acres. What started as a single Banyan tree in Kabirvad has emanated into over 3000 trunks currently, with the mother tree believed to be over 600 years old, interestingly the tree populous has grown manifold to such an extent that it is impossible to distinguish the mother tree from the other trees at present. According to legend, it is at this place that saint Kabirdas meditated and the tree grew from a meswak stick which is used to brush teeth that was thrown here by the saint. A single tree has over years proliferated into a tree with several trunks and spread in over 2.5 acres of land. Other added attractions on the island are the lotus shaped marble temple, the Kabir museum and a boat ride on Narmada river.

The Statue of Unity is a colossal statue of the Indian statesman and independence activist Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel (1875–1950), who was the first Deputy Prime Minister and Home minister of independent India and the chief adherent of Mahatma Gandhi during the non-violent Indian Independence movement. It is located around 100 km east of Bharuch on a river facing the Sardar Sarovar Dam on river Narmada. The total height of the structure is 240 m, with a base of 58 m and statue of 182 m. The height of 182 was specifically chosen to match the number of seats in the Gujarat Legislative Assembly. The Statue of Unity is the world’s tallest statue at 182 m and rises 54 m higher than the previous record holder, the Spring Temple Buddha in China’s Hainan province

Saputara
Gujarat’s only hill station, Saputara is perched in the Sahayadri mountain ranges in the boder area between Maharashtra and Gujarat in the Dang district. Ahwa, Gira Water Fall, Sanctuary, Table Top, Sunset Point, Boating, Rope-Way, Paragliding etc. are main attractions of Saputara. Located in the Sahyadri range at an altitude of almost 1,000m, this hill-station derives its name from the snake god which is highly revered by the tribal people. Saputara means “the abode of serpents”. Although Saputara has a pleasant climate year round, if you really want to enjoy this place, go in the winter months between December and February.

There is much to do at this charming hill station. You can spend an idyllic holiday walking through the lush green forests, or trek up the mountains. If you wish, you can have a picnic by any of the several waterfalls that abound here. There are meandering paths for you to lose yourself in as you walk hand-in-hand with a loved one.

Make sure you are there around March just before the festival of Holi to take part in the Dang Darbar and soak in the culture of the Saputara and Dang. The festivities take place five days before Holi and you will be able to experience the joy and happiness of the people through dance, music, songs, garba events and even street dramas. The Dang Darbar is a popular festival and attracts crowds from far and wide, so make sure you plan in advance if you are going during this peak period.

The weather in winter of Saputara is perfect for paragliding and in fact, the hill station hosts the Paragliding Festival, an annual 26-day long festival in the months of December and January. It’s no wonder Saputara is rightly called India’s paragliding destination.

In the next post of this series, we will move to central Gujarat, which is where the major city of the state, Ahmedabad is located.

In My Hands Today…

An Act of Villainy – Ashley Weaver

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“So you’ve gotten yourself involved with another murder, have you?”

Walking through London’s West End after a night at the theater, Amory Ames and her husband Milo run into wealthy investor and former actor Gerard Holloway. Holloway and his wife Georgina are old friends of theirs, and when Holloway invites them to the dress rehearsal of a new play he is directing, Amory readily accepts.

However, Amory is shocked to learn that Holloway has cast his mistress, actress Flora Bell, in the lead role. Furthermore, the casual invitation is not what it seems—he admits to Amory and Milo that Flora has been receiving threatening letters, and he needs their help in finding the mysterious sender. Despite Amory’s conflicting feelings—not only does she feel loyalty to Georgina, but the disintegration of the Holloways’ perfect marriage seems to bode ill for her own sometimes delicate relationship—her curiosity gets the better of her, and she begins to make inquiries.

It quickly becomes clear that each member of the cast has reason to resent Flora—and with a group so skilled in the art of deception, it isn’t easy to separate truth from illusion. When vague threats escalate, the scene is set for murder, and Amory and Milo must find the killer before the final curtain falls.