Reinventing the Bazaar: A Natural History of Markets – John McMillan
From the wild swings of the stock market to the online auctions of eBay to the unexpected twists of the world’s post-Communist economies, markets have suddenly become quite visible. We now have occasion to ask, “What makes these institutions work? How important are they? How can we improve them?”
Taking us on a lively tour of a world we once took for granted, John McMillan offers examples ranging from a camel trading fair in India to the $20 million per day Aalsmeer flower market in the Netherlands to the global trade in AIDS drugs. Eschewing ideology, he shows us that markets are neither magical nor immoral. Rather, they are powerful if imperfect tools, the best we’ve found for improving our living standards.
Kullu A popular tourist destination , Kullu located on the banks of the Beas river and is generally coupled with its sister town of Manali which is on much higher altitude and provides more scenic views. Situated at an altitude of 1230 m between the Pir Pranjal, Lower Himalayan and Great Himalayan Ranges, Kullu is abundant with apple orchards, pristine river streams and a wonderful climate. The Kullu Valley is a broad open valley between Manali and Largi. Historical references about the Kullu valley dates back to ancient Hindu literary works like the Ramayana, Mahabharata and the Puranas. During the Vedic period several small republics known as Janapada existed which were later conquered by the Nanda, Mauryan, Gupta and Karkota empires and the Pala dynasty. After a brief period of supremacy by King Harshavardhana, the region was once again divided into several local powers headed by chieftains, including some Rajput principalities, which were later conquered by the Maratha and Sikh empires. The name Kullu is derives from the word Kulant Peeth, meaning the end of the habitable world. According to legends, during the Great Flood, Manu visited this valley but was unable to cross the Rohtang pass and so named the last settlement he found as Kulant Peeth and chose to settle and meditate in what has now become the town of Manali or Manu’s Place. The name further devolved into Kulut, as the kingdom was known for a long time; before finally being known by the current name of Kullu. Kullu got its first motorable access only after Indian Independence and so long centuries of seclusion have allowed the area to retain a considerable measure of its traditional charm.
Established in 2010, the Khirganga National Park is known to be one of the most beautiful national parks in the country and is blessed with a scintillating landscape, glossy green hills, dense green shrubberies, tall towering trees and rusty old rest houses. Visitors can walk the trail leading from the centre of the park from where it is easier to spot the exotic and rich flora and fauna. The village neighbouring the national park is called Khirganga, known for a hot water spring as well as a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvat.
Also established in 2010, the Inderkilla National Park sprawls over an area of 104 sq. km and is home to several species of domestic and foreign flora and fauna. Considered to be one of the least explored national parks in India, the park also has a narrow trail passing through the heart of it, on which one can spot animals and plants in their natural habitat. Covered in dense woods and a hilly terrain ideal for a trek or a hike, the park is loved by adventure enthusiasts. Many of the plants here are said to hold significant medicinal properties.
The Raghunath Temple finds connections to Lord Rama, and the idol of Lord Raghunath placed here, is said to be the same as the one used by him. The temple borrows its design and architecture from the Pahari and Pyramidal styles and is the oldest temple in the valley. The Hanogi Mata Temple is a tiny little temple perched on top of a small hill. Watching over valleys, the temple is dedicated to Goddess Mata Hanogi and has a stream running down below, The temple is also best known for its views of the sunset. The Shringi Rishi Temple is dedicated to Lord Shringa who is the ruling deity of the Banjar valley and houses an idol of Shringa Rishi along with goddess Shanta. Built 1500 years back, the Jagannathi Devi Temple is dedicated to the Goddess Bhuvaneshwari, the sister of Lord Vishnu. The architecture of this temple is influenced by the Pahari style and its walls are artistically crafted with the images of Goddess Durga. The temple is surrounded by an ancient legend of a shepherd boy who caught hold of one of the two girls dancing to the tune of his flute. She then revealed that she was a goddess and decided to settle in that village.
Regarded as one of the most challenging treks in the northern Himalayan region, the Parvati Valley trek has mesmerising views. Although the trail is not really well laid, the thrill it brings is unmatched. The trek is quite long and taxing, but the reward is extremely exhilarating. As the altitude increases, the surroundings become more enchanting adorned with dense forests, lush green meadows and a plethora of gushing streams, all being flanked by majestic snow-clad peaks. One of the trekkable summits in the Indian Himalayan region, the Friendship Peak which looms at an elevation of 5,289 meters in the Pir Panjal range in Himachal Pradesh is a trekker’s dream. From the summit, one can feast their eyes on the panoramic view of the Pir Panjal range and the silver horizon formed by the Dhauladhar and the Great Himalayan ranges. The Friendship Peak trek passes through the beautiful Solang Valley that houses several alpine meadows, thick forest dotted with varied species of alpine trees, colourful orchards and crisscrossed by numerous small and gushing streams. Located at an altitude of 3660 m the Chandrakhani Pass offers visitors a fabulous view of the Deo Tibba Peak, the Pir Panjal and Parbati ranges. The Parvati valley, with all its beauty, makes for an amazing trek with the Chandrakhani Pass a popular base for trekking. The Pin Bhabha Pass, also known as the sister of the Pin Parvati Pass, is a very challenging and beautiful trek. Located at an elevation of 4865 m, the Bhabha Pass acts as a bridge between the valleys of Kinnaur and Spiti. Starting from the less explored village of Kafnu, the trek keeps one engaged with dramatic changes in the landscape at every turn. The best time to visit is between mid June to early October
Isolated from the rest of the world lies the solitary village of Malana Nala, which is a side valley of the Parvati Valley known as Malana or the Malana Village. The temples in Malana, the Jamadagni Temple and the Shrine of Renuka Devi serve as major attractions of the village and are built close to each other. The trekking route to Malana is adorned with lush deodar vegetation along with a slight view of the Malana Dam that energises people from time to time.
Manali Nestled in between the snow-capped slopes of the Pir Panjal and the Dhauladhar ranges, Manali is one of the most popular hill stations in the country. With jaw-dropping views, lush green forests, sprawling meadows carpeted with flowers, gushing blue streams, a perpetual fairy-tale like mist lingering in the air, and a persistent fragrance of pines, Manali has been blessed with extraordinary scenic beauty. Manali is the beginning of an ancient trade route to Ladakh and from there over the Karakoram Pass on to Yarkand and Khotan in the Tarim Basin and serves as the gateway to Lahaul and Spiti district as well as Leh. Named after the Sanatan lawgiver Manu, the name Manali is regarded as the derivative of Manu-Alaya, meaning the abode of Manu. Legend has it that sage Manu stepped off his ark in Manali to recreate human life after a great flood had deluged the world. The valley is often referred to as the ‘Valley of the Gods’ with the old Manali village having an ancient temple dedicated to sage Manu. The British introduced apple trees in the area and today, apples, along with plum and pear, remain the best source of income.
When heading to Manali for a vacation, two absolutely essential destinations are the Rohtang Pass and the Solang Valley. Located 14 km to the north west of the main town, Solang Valley is situated on the way to Rohtang. A favourite for adventure enthusiasts, activities like parachuting to paragliding, horse riding to driving mini-open jeeps specially available for tourists of all age groups are available in the valley. During winters, Solang valley is covered with snow, making skiing a popular sport. The crystal snow in Solang starts making an appearance towards the beginning of October and with the onset of core winter months, the temperature drops down to -1 °C with nights being especially chilly and December and January are the peak months for snowfall. Paragliding is a favourite activity here and the best time to paraglide depends on the season. For those visiting between January to May or October to December, 9 am to 5 pm Is the time for paragliding which is shut down during the monsoons. The cost of paragliding varies from INR 600 to 1800. Solang Valley is an all season destination as the valley is magnificent during winters and during summers experiences mildly hot afternoons with cold mornings and evenings.
Located just 51 km from Manali, Rohtang Pass can only be reached by road and is located at a height of 3978 m on the Manali – Keylong road. In the Ladhaki language Bhoti, Rohtang means a pile of corpses because of the large number of people who died while working here. Due to heavy snowfall, the pass remains closed in winters from November to May and is said to be the only pass in the country to be covered by snow throughout the year. Only 800 petrol vehicles and 400 diesel vehicles are allowed entry into the pass daily. A tourist permit is required for the taxis and vehicles going to Rohtang Pass, valid for a day, except on Tuesdays as the pass is closed for maintenance each Tuesday. Permit fees for cars, jeeps and MUVs are INR 500 + INR 50 as congestion charge, for busses and HMVs, it is INR 500 + INR 100 congestion fee. There is a special permit for private vehicles only which is only valid for one day and only 60 petrol and 40 diesel vehicles are allowed entry to the pass daily. The Rohtang Road Tunnel also known as the Atal Tunnel is a highway tunnel built under the Rohtang Pass. At a length of 9.02 km, it is the longest tunnel above 10,000 feet in the world and reduces the travel time and overall distance between Manali and Keylong on the way to Leh. What was a five to six hour trip under good conditions now takes only 45 minutes. The tunnel was inaugurated in October 2020.
A high altitude lake, Bhrigu Lake is located about 40 km from Manali. The route to the lake passes through entrancing meadows which are also called the Bhrigu Lake Meadows. The name Bhrigu is derived Maharishi Bhrigu. A salient characteristic of the lake is that it never freezes entirely during winters, which according to legend, is because Maharishi Bhrigu meditated near it. Not many visitors know about the lake which takes six hours to get from Gulaba village. The alpine meadows can be compared to those found in Switzerland. During most of the tourist season, the region has clear blue skies during the day with the night skies a special treat for campers and night gazers. The best time to visit the lake is between October and May which is the winter season in Manali because a significant portion of the lake is frozen, and the surrounding covered with snow. Between March and May, during the summer months, the weather is clear and pleasant.
Located inside the very famous Vashisht Temple, Vashisht Baths is a hot water spring, believed to possess medicinal values. Also known as Vashisht Springs, it is visited many, who take a dip in the holy water to rid themselves of skin diseases and infections. The baths are accompanied by beautiful sandstone temples with separate bathing areas for men and women.
Nehru Kund gets its name from the first Prime minister of India, Jawaharlal Nehru who is said to have had the water from the natural spring when he used to stay in Manali. Located on Manali Leh Highway, it is believed that the waters of this spring originate from famous Bhrigu Lake and is known for the cold and pristine water and breathtaking scenery of the mountains and valleys. The kund is famous for photography and has the perfect natural lighting.
Located 3 km uphill from Manali lies the town of Old Manali, a quiet settlement that lays beneath a valley with a vast apple orchards. Manali is divided into Old Manali and New Manali by the Manalsu river and one can reach Old Manali by a bridge over the river. The sunrise and sunsets here are stunning and Old Manali is most famous for its Hidimba temple, the Jogini falls and the Vashisht temple.
The Hadimba Temple is a unique temple dedicated to Hidimba, the wife of the second brother of the Pandavas, Bhima built on a rock believed to be in the image of the Hidimba herself. Locally known as Dhungari Temple, the construction style of the Hidimba Devi temple is entirely different from that of other temples, with wooden doorways, walls, and cone-shaped roof. The temple is a four-storeyed structure built in the Pagoda style with flat roofs. The topmost roof is conical and clad in metal, while the other roofs are covered with timber tiles. The temple is made of mainly wood and stones with intricately carved wooden doors and a 24 metres high wooden shikhar or tower above the temple. The main door of the temple is adorned with carvings of Goddess Durga with the interior simple. The temple does not contain any idol but the sanctum sanctorum consists of the rock where Hidimba sat for meditation. A few metres away lies a shrine dedicated to Hidimba and Bhima’s son Ghatotkacha which consists of a stone block with the impression of what is believed to be Hidimba’s foot. During Navaratri, she is worshipped and during the day of Dussehra, the idol is taken to the Dhalpur Maidan from where she blesses the ceremonial horse called Ghor Puja. It is open on all the days of the week, from 8 am to 6 pm.
A beautiful temple dedicated to Sage Manu, the Manu Temple lies in the Beas river valley. Said to be the only temple dedicated to the sage who was King Vaivasvata Manu, believed to be the creator of the human race and known as the lawgiver of the Sanatana Dharma. According to legend, Sage Manu found a small carp in a river who was actually Lord Vishnu. The sage put the carp in a bowl to save him. The fish soon became too big to fit in the bowl, so was moved to a bigger bowl. The fish, however, kept on increasing in size and the sage had to move it back to the river. Once in the river, the fish grew to a size that the river couldn’t accommodate. The sage eventually moved the fish to the ocean. It was then that Lord Vishnu appeared in his real form and informed Sage Manu about the flood that would wipe life off the planet. The sage then built a boat big enough to accommodate his family and nine kinds of animals, birds and seeds. After the flood was over, he landed on earth from his boat and meditated. The location where he is believed to have meditated is the location where the Manu Temple stands. Sage Manu is also attributed to the Laws of Manu or the Manusmriti, which forms the basis of Hinduism through a converse given to a group of Rishis to guide them to deal with catastrophes and maintain peace and harmony in the society. The architecture of the temple is in the pagoda style of architecture and the most significant characteristic is the tiered tower or the diminishing wooden roof which looks similar to the shrines of Nepal. The structure of the Manu Temple is of wood and concrete and is also believed that the Pagodas are demon arresters as they attract lightning during thunderstorms by functioning like lightning rods. The temple is open daily between 6 am and 5 pm.
Situated 7 km away from Manali, the Gayatri temple houses an idol of Goddess Gayatri, made of marble. This temple has some splendid architecture styles, is constructed with a stunning artistic finesse and with some of the most intricate woodwork.
Named after Rishi Vashisht, who was known as King Vishwamitra in his previous birth, the Vashist temple is more than 4000 years old and has a hot spring which is believed to have medicinal properties. The temple is open from 7 am to 9 am and the hot spring is open from 7 am to 1 pm and then again between 2 to 9 pm daily.
The Siyali Mahadev temple is one of the oldest temples in Manali dedicated to Lord Shiva. Incredibly famous for its architectural beauty, the quaint temple is frequently visited. There is another smaller temple built behind the Siyali Mahadev Temple which according to legend, Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati appeared on earth from a tree trunk where the smaller temple is now built. The temple, with a foundation of stone and cement and the main temple made of wood which is a blend of chalets and pagoda. The pagoda has four levels, two of which are smaller and located on one side, instead of in the centre, on top of the other two levels. The edges of the roof have delicately carved hanging pieces of wood which look like tassels from afar. Wooden pillars support the arches and the ceiling forming an area that encircles the main shrine with wooden railings about one foot high supported with many smaller carved wooden legs. The main shrine has stripes of wood placed on the walls. The frame of the door and the windows of the main shrine are also made of richly carved wood. Inside the shrine is a swayambhu, a self-manifested Shivalinga. The temple is open daily between 6 am and 7 pm.
The Gadhan Thekchhokling Gompa is a monastery with a small shrine dedicated to Lord Buddha built in the traditional Tibetan style of architecture. The structure has a pagoda that is a bright shade of yellow and has several glass windows with frames decorated in yellow. Inside the monastery is a giant statue of Lord Buddha, some more colourful murals, several tombs and prayer wheels. The murals depict Lord Buddha’s philosophy of life. The first floor of the building is only used for meditation which can be used by everyone visiting the monastery. Constructed in 1960 by Tibetan refugees, the monastery is often visited by devotees from Kinnaur, Tibet, Nepal, and Spiti and serves as an essential point of gathering for locals. Most visit the monastery in the mornings and the evenings as it is the best time to offer prayers and to observe the Buddhist monks and devotees perform their rituals. The monastery is open between 6 am and 8:30 pm daily.
The Himalayan Nyingmapa Gompa is a Buddhist monastery whose most prominent feature is the enormous statue or idol of Lord Sakyamuni in a sitting or meditative posture. Located very close to the Mall road, the gompa is built in the traditional Tibetan style of architecture. In front of the temple is a narrow pathway lined by shrubs and spacious lawns on either side. The structure has a solid base, and the building is made out of wood. It is a two-storey structure and has a pagoda. Like many other Tibetan Buddhist temples and monasteries, the pagoda is also painted a bright shade of yellow with the main shrine encircled by a passage where the prayer wheels are installed. The main door is a solid red colour thick wooden door which has intricate and traditional colourful designs on it and the walls and the ceiling are decorated with vivid mural painting. The idol of Sakyamuni is about 4.5 feet tall and is seen in the sitting posture and is coloured in traditional and symbolic gold and saffron colours. A section of the shrine has low desks with floor seating for the monks. There are also paintings depicting the life and principles of Gautam Buddha. Several more statues of Buddha in various sizes and shapes are also installed inside the monastery. The gompa is open between 6 am and 7 pm daily. Though there is no entry fee to offer prayers, if you plan to take photos or videos, a small token fee of INR 20 is charged.
A local favourite for picnics, Arjun Gufa is located on the left side of river Beas and is very close to Prini village. The cave is a narrow path into a hill and with no light entering after a point, one has to explore and find their way into the cave through the darkness using flashlights. The passage inside is uneven and at a little distance inside, one is required to descend to reach a base area. It takes about 45 minutes to explore the whole cave. The cave is associated with Arjun, one of the Pandava brothers. It is believed that Arjun meditated in the cave for years when Lord Shiva, pleased with his devotion and dedication, blessed him with the Pashupata Astra. According to legend, Arjun travelled to Arjun Gufa and meditated for years to attain the Pashupata Astra. His devotion pleased Lord Indra, and he blessed him with the Astra which according to mythology, the Pashupata Astra was a powerful and destructive weapon which could be discharged by a bow, through words, eyes or by the mind and was never supposed to be used by less significant warriors because it could wipe out all beings in an instant.
Jogini waterfall is a popular tourist spot cascading from a height of 160 feet. It takes about 3 hours to climb to the fall, but the beauty of the trek will make the time fly. The leisurely 2-kilometre trek to the fall begins at the Vashisht temple through a narrow lane adjacent to the temple which passes through pine tree plantations and beautiful apple orchards. After about 45 minutes, one gets to the base of the fall with a small temple dedicated to Yogini Mata.
The Jana Waterfall is a 30 feet high watefall located in a quaint village called Jana. One has to trek to the waterfall through dense deodar and pine trees amidst snow-capped mountains. There’s a wooden bridge laid perpendicular to the direction of Jana Falls which trekkers use to walk across with seating arrangements near the waterfall which is open between 6 am and 6 pm.
The Rahala Waterfalls are located 29 km from Manali on the way to Rohtang Pass. The water is usually cold as it originates from a melting glacier situated in the Himalayas and the surroundings are thickly vegetated with deodar and silver birch trees and is located at an altitude of about 9000 feet. The falls ate open between 6 am and 5 pm.
The Rozy Waterfalls is also situated on the way to Rohtang from Manali and is enveloped in tall deodar trees, dense woods and bounteous nature. The silvery cascading water is a visual delight to the eyes and a famous picnic spot.
Adorned with sky touching deodar trees, the Van Vihar National Park has a man-made lake that is open for boating. Run and maintained by the city, this beautiful garden is a local favourite picnic spot. Under the shade of the dense trees, there are many wooden and concrete benches installed throughout the park where one can unwind after a long day, stroll or jog along the specially made track. With still waters on a crystal clear lake, a boat ride on boats that seat two to four people manually operated by oars is a must as well as self-operating paddle boats. During summers, the park is open from 8 am to 7 pm and from 8 am to 5 pm during winters. There is an entry fee of INR 5 per person with the boat ride costing INR 30 for 15 minutes.
A visit to Manali is incomplete without a visit to the Manali Sanctuary, which is at a walking distance from the main town and city centre. The sanctuary commences from just behind the town and extends all the way up in the mountains. It was officially declared as a sanctuary in 1954 and is spread over an area of 31.80 sq km. It is home to all kinds of species of flora and fauna, both rare and endangered as well as the common like the Himalayan Black Bear, Kashmir flying Squirrel, Himalayan Palm Civet, Himalayan Yellow-throated Marten, Barking Deer and Flying Fox. The sanctuary has numerous trekking routes, ranging from easy climbs to difficult ones as well as a camping experience under the sky, though only during the summer months.
The Museum of Himachal Culture & Folk Art has a beautiful collection of the ancient and traditional heritage of the region. The antique artefacts give insights into the the ancient culture of the state. Established in 1998, the eclectic museum’s collection includes traditional apparel, jewellery, accessories, utensils, furniture, traditional household items, musical instruments and handloom. There are also models of the ancient houses and temples as well as a beautiful collection of handicraft that include painting, woodwork and traditional masks made of wood. The museum has an entry fee of INR 10 per person and is open from 9 am to 7 pm between April and November and from 10 am to 6 pm between the months of December and March.
Gulaba is a little village about 20 km from Manali on the way to Rohtang Pass with an enchanting natural landscape. Most people explore Gulaba on their way to the Bhrigu Lake and rest in the Gulaba Meadows. It’s name is derived from the first Maharaja of Jammu and Kashmir, Maharaja Gulab Singh, the founder of the Dogra Dynasty. The Maharaja had camped at Gulaba when he was on his way to invade China during his reign and the location was named because it replicates the picturesque beauty of Kashmir with its snow-capped mountain peaks and lush green grasslands.
A quaint village about 15 km from Manali, Kothi lies on the foothills of Rohtang Pass and enchants visitors with the magnificent view of the natural landscape surrounding the village. Here, one can get a beautiful view of the snow-capped mountain peaks, the Beas river and the glaciers from an altitude of 2600 m. The village receives snowfall during winters but is not as crowded as the Solang Valley.
Jagatsukh is a picturesque village, and the capital of former state of Kullu, located about 7 km from Manali. It is famous for its enchanting natural landscape and the ancient Jagatsukh Temples dedicated to Lord Shiva and Goddess Sandhya Devi which is open from 10 am to 5 pm every day. The village is also famous for the annual Chacholi Jatra Festival. Kalath, a hot water spring in Jagatsukh is another famous attraction in the village.
The Hampta Pass serves as a convenient and enjoyable trek which is laden with dense pine forests, pristine glacial valleys, vast meadows and a panoramic landscape. A perfect trek for beginners, the place is easy to access and unlike most treks, this one begins from Manali. Chandratal, a crystal clear lake perched at high altitude is the highlight of the trip and a sight to behold. The trek is a trip of about four to five days.
The Chandratal Baralacha is a perfect trek destination perched at an altitude of 4,300 m and is a high altitude lake located on the Samudra Plateau of Spiti Valley. The sight of sunset gleaming upon the turquoise waters of the lake, pristine landscape, mountain passes, several gushing streams, verdant meadows, the gush of colourful orchards and exotic wildlife make the Chandratal Baralacha Trek an unforgotten experience. The second part of the trek, Baralacha nestled at 4,890 m above the sea level, is situated on the Leh-Manali Highway. This pass, connecting the Spiti, Ladakh, Zanskar and Lahaul Regions, is a high altitude motorable pass and the trail passing through is quite enticing with varied terrains, from lush green valleys and dense cover of forests of Kullu valley to barren lands of Spiti and tiny quaint Indo-Tibetan villages.
The Beas Kund Trek is one of the most undertaken treks and a a perfect weekend getaway plan. A chance to feast one’s eyes on the outstanding views of the Pir Pinjal mountain ranges over the Beas river, with the soul getting wooed by the spectacular meadows of Dhundi and Bakarthach and finally, the glacial lake at Beas Kund is all that one needs to get rejuvenated and worth the walk.
Hanuman Tibba is a scenic peak 5860 meters above sea level northwest of Manali amidst the Pir Panjal range, further north of Solang Valley and is a favoured destination for mountain climbers, experienced trekkers and skiing enthusiasts. Experienced trekkers must cross the Tentu Pass to get here and treks to Hanuman Tibba require prior approval as per the Indian Mountaineering Foundation rules with a fixed number of trekkers per mountaineering expedition. One can either take a mountaineering course or be allowed to apply with extensive mountaineering experience to be able climb Hanuman Tibba.
Dharamshala and Mcleodganj Known as India’s Little Lhasa, Dharamshala or Dharamsala is known around the world as the home to the Dalai Lama, the Buddhist leader who runs his government in exile from the city since 1959. Located 10 km from Kangra, Dharamsala is separated as upper and lower divisions with different altitudes. The lower division is the town while the upper-division is located 3km away and is popularly known as Mcleodganj and Dharamshala is the second and winter capital of the state and is surrounded by dense coniferous forest with several tea gardens. Dhamshala is a compound word of dharma and shala from Sanskrit and Hindi which when loosely translated into English means spiritual dwelling or more loosely sanctuary. In common Hindi usage, the word dharamshala refers to a shelter or rest house for spiritual pilgrims. When the first permanent settlement was created in what is today Dharamshala, there was one such pilgrims’ rest house on the site, and the settlement took its name from that Dharamshala. McLeod Ganj was named after Sir Donald Friell McLeod, a Lieutenant Governor of Punjab and the suffix ganj is a common Persian word used for neighbourhood. Until the British colonisation, Dharamshala and its surrounding area was ruled by the Katoch dynasty of Kangra. The indigenous people of Dharamshala and the surrounding region are the Gaddis, a predominantly Hindu group who traditionally lived a nomadic or semi-nomadic lifestyle. The Tibetan settlement of Dharamshala began in 1959, when the Dalai Lama fled Tibet and was allowed to settle in McLeodGanj or upper Dharmshala. Today there are several thousand Tibetan exilees mostly in and around McLeodGanj.
Popularly known for the study of Tantric meditation and philosophy, the Gyuto Monastery was founded in 1959 and was established for preserving and promoting the tradition of black magic or tantric teachings, of the great teacher Ksongkhapa. Beautifully constructed on a hilltop with a commanding view of the Dhauladhar ranges and the Beas river, the monastery has a gold-plated statue of Lord Buddha which glistens when the rays of the sun fall on it early in the morning. Originally established in 1474 by the Dalai Lama’s chief disciple, Konga Dhondup in Tibet, it was re-established in 1959 in India and houses over 500 monks and is the temporary residence of His Holiness, the Karmapa. The monks at Gyuto Monastery are famous for their chants and were even nominated for a Grammy in 2011. The monastery is open between 7 am and 7 pm with the best time to visit on the Buddha’s birthday.
Replete with Tibetan culture, the Dalai Lama Temple, also known as Tsuglakhang Complex and the Namgyal Monastery, is a politico-religious centre in Dharamsala full of lamas chanting on prayer wheels or beads. This complex houses Dalai Lama’s residence, the Tsuglagkhang Temple, the Namgyal Monastery and the Tibet Museum. Except for Dalai Lama’s residence, every other part of the complex is open for tourists and if lucky, one can even get to meet His Holiness. It is often referred to the Dalai Lama’s Temple as it is the personal monastery of the 14th Dalai Lama. Close to the residence of the Dalai Lama, the temple is frequently visited by him to preach and conduct prayer meets. The gigantic complex houses massive statues of Avalokiteshvara, Padmasambhava and several other Buddhist monks with the main attraction of the temple, the enormous idol of Lord Buddha sitting on an elevated pedestal. The chief prayer wheel is also located here, at the centre of the temple which is plated in gold and has chants of ‘Om Mani Padme Hum’. Pilgrims walk around the pedestal and rotate the prayer wheel. The large hall adjacent to it accommodates thousands of people who can meditate and spend a few moments of quietude. A major point of attraction at the complex is the Dalai Lama Museum which showcases elaborate pictures and photographs of the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan culture. Inaugurated in 2000, the museum also plays a short video on the culture and teachings of Buddhism and is open from 9 am to 5 pm every day except Mondays and a nominal entry fee of INR 5 is charged for entry. The dates for the Dalai Lama’s preachings in the temple are known in advance and can be checked online with the tickets only purchased in person at the Tibetan Branch Security Office in McLeodg and a service fee of INR 10 is collected for each session per person. The foundation of Namgyal Monastery was laid down in the 16th century by the second Dalai Lama and was set up for the monks to help Dalai Lama in religious affairs. The monastery is open between 5 am to 8:30 pm daily.
Located inside the Thekchen Chöling temple complex, the Kalachakra temple is a popular Tibetan temple built in 1992 and known for housing the stunning murals of Kalachakra or the wheel of time, linked to the Avalokitesvara. The walls and the pillars of the temple are adorned with several beautiful traditional Tibetan Thangka paintings and has a statue of the Shakayamuni Buddha, which is surrounded by stunning fresco decorations of the seven hundred and seventy two deities of the mandala as well as a central Kalachakra image. The temple complex also houses a book shop and quaint cafe.
Located 5 kms from Dharamshala in Khaniyara, at the foothills of Dhauladhar, the Aghanjar Mahadev temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and believed to 500 years old. A small cave near the temple houses a Shivalinga. The temple can be reached through a stone paved pathway with some 50 steps below a tiny stream of water flowing. According to legend, Arjun, the third Pandava brother was once on his way to mount Kailash for a fight with the Kauravas and when he reached this spot, Lord Shiva appeared before him and blessed him to win the war. The temple is open between 5 am to 9 pm every day.
Surrounded by lovely pools and lush greenery, the Bhagsunag temple is one of the oldest temples located about 3 km from Mcleodganj and is also popularly known as the Bhagsunath Temple. The two pools around the temple are believed to be sacred and considered to contain miraculous powers of healing. According to popular legend, the Snake God was enraged when King Bhagsu dared to steal water from the sacred Nag Dal lake in Mcleodganj. Later, the king repented and built the temple to seek forgiveness from the Snake God. Other legends say the temple is because of the patronage offered by a specific Gorkha community known as Bhagsuwala, after Lord Bhagsunag and is believed that the community built the two pools of water that are located here with tiger-head spouts. The construction of the double-storey wooden house that is located here for the pilgrims to stay is also credited to the same community. The temple is open from 5 am to 12 noon and then again between 4 to 9 pm.
Snuggled amidst the Dhauladhar range, the Bagalamukhi temple is dedicated to one of the ten Mahavidyas of the Supreme Goddess as per Shaktism. Devotees visit the temple with hopes of getting their wishes fulfilled be it cases won, exams passed or otherwise to be happy and successful. It is said that anything asked for after performing a homagni and yajna at the temple is granted. The name Bagalamukhi comes from two separate Sanskrit words, Bagala meaning bride and mukhi meaning face which translates to the deity having captivating and hypnotising powers in her face or in herself which fights evil. It is said that yellow is the favourite colour of the goddess which is why the temple has been painted in yellow and all worshippers wear yellow coloured clothes with yellow sweets offered to the deity.
The Masroor Rock Cut Temple is an archaeological site which is currently in ruins. The complex is a combination of 15 rock cut temples designed in the Indo – Aryan style of architecture, believed to have been built in the 8th century and dedicated to the Hindu gods Shiva, Vishnu, Devi and Saura. The temples have been carved out of a single monolithic rock in the Nagara style, with a Shikara and has three entrances with the fourth entrance left incomplete. The complex has a sacred pool of water, is laid out as a square with symmetric construction with the main temple with a square sanctum occupying the centre and other tiny temples surrounding it in a mandala pattern. As per legend, the Pandavas stayed here during their exile and built the complex and it is believed while building it, their hidden identity was exposed and they had to leave before finishing it. Another legend says that the Pandavas wanted to reach heaven. so that they began constructing a staircase within the complex and made an oath to complete the staircase by the next morning. This angered Lord Indra, as the staircase would make it easy to reach heaven, so disguised as a crow, he began cawing loudly in the early dawn, which ensured the Pandavas could not complete the staircase. The complex is open between 9 am and 5 pm.
Built in 1852, the St. John in the Wilderness Church is a neo-gothic church built in dedication to John the Baptist. Set amidst lush deodar forests, this peaceful edifice is known for its Belgian stained-glass windows. The church was built in dense woods which is why it is famous as the St John in the Wilderness and is one of the oldest structures of Dharamsala as well as the final resting place of Lord Ergin. The church is open from 7 am to 6:30 pm on Mondays to Saturdays and from 9 am to 6:30 pm on Sundays.
The Library of Tibetan Works and Archives is a Tibetan library founded by Tenzin Gyatso, the 14th Dalai Lama. With artefacts and manuscripts that date back to the 12th century, it is one of the pioneering institutions in the study and research of Buddhism. It is home to as many as 80,000 manuscripts and 600 Buddhist artefacts including beautifully crafted silk applique thangkas and a three dimensional, wood carved mandala of the Avalokiteshwara.
Located in McLeodganj, the Tibetan Museum is regarded as the official museum of the Central Tibetan Administration Department of Information and International Relations and is very close to the Temple of Dalai Lama. The museum incorporates history reports, earthenware, handiworks and various canvases and is built in a traditional yellow and white Tibetan style of architecture. The museum aims to raise awareness about the occupation of Tibet and is filled with various exhibitions, documentary screenings, talk series, photographs and workshops. The Permanent Exhibition of the Tibetan Museum is dedicated to Tibet’s recent history, the Chinese occupation and the Tibetan exile experience.
The Kangra museum is dedicated to the marvels of Tibetan and Buddhist artwork and their rich history. Among the large variety of its precious collectibles are jewelry, rare coin memorabilia, paintings, sculptures and pottery.
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Named after the summer residence of the Dalai Lama at Lhasa, the Norbulingka Institute is located 7.5 km from McLeodganj and built in a traditional Tibetan style, set in a beautiful garden of meandering paths, flowing streams, small waterfalls and ponds with the spectacular Dhauladhar mountains in the background. The main objective of the Norbulingka Institute is to preserve the Tibetan culture through paintings, statues and sculptures, and provide employment and care to qualified Tibetan refugees.
The War Memorial in the forests of Dharamshala was created to commemorate the memory of those from the Kangra who laid down their lives for the country. Three huge panels of black stone, each 24 feet in height, preserve their memory. Surrounded by pine forests leading to lush gardens with a quaint walkway, the memorial has the names of the fallen soldiers etched on the stone panels.
The smallest tea region of India, Dharamshala has beautifully lined and organized tea gardens across the Kangra Valley and is known for its good quality tea which are available for purchase in many shops across Dharamshala and Mcleodganj.
The little hippie village of Dharamkot is located near Dharamshala and Mcleodganj and is popular as the Yoga Village. Home to the Dhamma Shikhara Vipassana Meditation Centre and the Tushita Buddhist Meditation Centre, Dharamkot is the place to let meditation soothe your senses.
The Bhagsu Waterfall is ocated on the main road which connects Mcleodganj and Dharamshala and close to the Bhagsunath Temple. The waterfall starts at the base of the Dhauladhar valley, and before cascading down, the stream also passes through the Bhagsunath Temple. The Bhagsu Fall reaches it’s strongest force during the monsoon season when the water falls from a height of around 30 feet. Bathing in the waterfall is possible, but the water is freezing at times. The falls are open between 7 am and 9 pm.
Located at the height of 1,775 metres above the sea level near the village of Tota Rani, the Dal Lake is a small yet picturesque lake. With its name taken from the Dal Lake of Srinagar, the lake is surrounded by rugged mountains and towering deodar trees. The lake is also a perfect place to stop and relax if one is trekking up to Naddi, which is also known as the Sunset Point. A grand fair is organised at the banks of the lake every September to mark the presence of Lord Shiva and is attended by a large number of people of the Gaddi Tribe. According to legend, the fish in the lake are never caught or eaten because the lake is believed to be cursed and the lake is considered a sacred spot as there is a small temple dedicated to Lord Shiva on the banks of the lake. The lake is open between 7 am and 8 pm and the best time to visit is between May and October and especially September when the fair takes place.
Triund is an easy trek that is situated a few km from Dharamshala at an altitude of 2828. A trek to Triund is short and simple and can be done from either McLeodganj or Dharamkot. The first half of the trek is a gradually inclined walk with the last 2 km from Snowline Cafe which involves a vertical climb all the way till Triund. The evening sky from Triund is a sight in itself and is a good excuse for camping here at night. Camping at Triund is closed until further notice. The peak is open between 7 am to 7 pm daily.
In our last part, we will explore more remote and border areas.
I got my first dose of the COVID-19 vaccine this week and it went better than I thought. We got the Pfizer vaccine and after the registration, I was sent to the nurse for the vaccine. The nurse asked me about my dominant hand and then started the process of inserting it in my left hand, which is my non dominant hand. By the time I realised the needle was going in, it was out and the process barely took a few seconds. Then after waiting in the observation area for 30 minutes, I was let go with a paper about the next dose.
Now, everyone reacts differently and my experience will be completely different to others. S who took the vaccine one day before me fared worse than me. For me, when I was sitting in the observation area, I had some pain time and again, almost like in waves, but by the time I reached home, the pain was barely there. I normally sleep on my left side, and tried to avoid it that day. But I know I did move at night, but there was barely, if any pain. The next day there was some slight pain, but nothing else and I was back to my usual self by the middle of the day. I didn’t get any fever or headaches and feel I was let off very easily. I am now hopeful for the second dose now and hopefully will not feel so bad as I have heard from others.
BB & GG starts their second year of school tomorrow and for BB, this is basically a make or break semester. If he does not pull up his grades and by a lot this semester, he has to rethink his career choices and may not be able to get into the university course of his choice. Here’s hoping both do well this semester and live up to their potential.
And this segues well into today’s positivity quote which is about reaching your potential. And it’s very close to a quote I love attributed to Walt Disney which is if you can dream it, you can do it. It means that you are only limited by your thinking. If you have dreams, then the only place they are impossible is in your own thinking. Think about this, and it makes absolute sense, we are limited by our thinking and if we can dream about something, then nothing stops us from achieving them, except ourselves!
India’s COVID-19 cases have been soaring the past few weeks and I am amazed and shocked at how the governments, both at the centre and at the state levels, are allowing massive religious festivities to happen without any social distancing and not a mask in sight! I am also hearing news of a possible new variant which is affecting children in different states which is worrying.
So please, please take care, stay masked and if you are eligible, go and get vaccinated! See you next week.
A young man has stopped breathing in a supermarket toilet. A pedestrian with a nasty head injury won’t let the crew near him on a busy road. A newborn baby is worryingly silent. An addict urinates on the ambulance floor when denied a fix. This is the life of an ambulance paramedic.
Jake Jones has worked in the UK ambulance service for ten years: every day, he sees a dozen of the scenes we hope to see only once in a lifetime. Can You Hear Me? – the first thing he says when he arrives on the scene – is a memoir of the chaos, intensity and occasional beauty of life on the front-lines of medicine in the UK.
As well as a look into dozens of extraordinary scenes – the hoarder who won’t move his collection to let his ailing father leave the house, the blood-soaked man who tries to escape from the ambulance, the life saved by a lucky crew who had been called to see someone else entirely – Can You Hear Me? is an honest examination of the strains and challenges of one of the most demanding and important jobs anyone can do.
Trithan Valley Tirthan Valley is perched at an altitude of 1600 metres above sea level and derives its name from the Tirthan river flowing through. It lies around 3 km from the entrance to the Great Himalayan National Park and is a paradise for nature lovers besides having an abundance of adventure activities. The valley is best known for its trout fishing, trekking, and adventure activities and beautiful guesthouses set in nature. A major attraction of the valley, the Serloskar Lake is located about 5 km from Jalori Pass with the walk to the lake is enchanting with a thick cover of oak trees at an altitude of 3,100 metres and is believed to have medicinal properties. The place is better known for its temple devoted to Goddess Budhi Nagin and it is believed that the Goddess has a hundred sons and acts as a guardian of the place and the trek to the lake is a moderate one.
The Great Himalayan National Park is a national park which is surrounded on three sides by the Himalayas and is home to diverse wildlife species. Instituted a national park in 1999, today it is home to more than 375 species of fauna, 31 species of mammals and 181 species of birds. The culture inside the park is unique with each village having a deity of its own with some fairs organised during April, May, August, and September. A permit is needed to visit the park and the park provides trekking facility to visitors for which the Kullu Valley is the starting point. There are different levels provided for trekking ranging from easy to moderate hikes, moderate to tough and strenuous treks. Moderate day-long treks to difficult multi-day treks are organized on all the four valleys of the park including Tirthan, Jwar Nala, Parvati and Sainj. It is compulsory for the tourists to seek prior permission from the park officials for the treks held at different days. The parj is open between 10 am and 5:30 pm and needs about three to four hours to cover. Entry fees for Indians is INR 50, for Indian students it is INR 30 and foreigners pay INR 200 while foreign students pay INR 100. Camping charges for a two person tent per day is INR 100, while it is INR 150 for a three person tent per day and INR 200 for a four person tent per day. For more than four persons, it is INR 500 per day while the toilet tent will set one back by INR 100 per tent per day. Trout fishing in the crystal clear Tirthan river, a tributary of Beas is a favourite angling spot for visitors. The river is filled with brown and rainbow trout and has many anglers who come here especially to fish.
Bhuntar A town used a gateaway to Kullu, Manali, Kasol and Manikaran, Bhuntar is where Kullu’s airport is located. It is at the confluence of the Parvati with Beas rivers where the Parvati Valley runs eastwards, through a steep-sided valley towards Kasol and Manikaran. A quaint little town, it is perfect for those who prefer to visit less touristy places. Bhuntar has a quaint serenity to it and is surrounded by lush greenery and temples with splendid architecture. The Basheshwar temple is said to have been built by the Pandavas and is a beautiful temple with stone carvings everywhere which are very detailed and awe-inspiring. Easily distinguished by the flat shaped shikaras, it is the biggest of the temples in the Kullu Valley. Located just 3 km away from Bhuntar, amidst lush green mountains, the Jagannath Temple, at a height of around 5,000 ft. above the sea level is dedicated to Lord Jagannath. The Bijli Mahadev temple is located at an altitude of 2460 m on a hilltop across the Beas river. As its name suggests, it is dedicated to Lord Shiva and it is said that the temple houses a Shiva linga which was broken into pieces by lightning, that was brought back together and bound by a temple priest using butter. It is said this happens each year and locals the priest use cereal and pulse flour with unsalted butter on the broken pieces to restore the linga back to its original form. There are various sources as to the lightning strikes and locals believe the lightning strike is divine grace and the deity wants to protect the inhabitants from evil and some believe the lightning is a form of the deity with supernatural powers. The temple has to be reached by a 3 km trek through long path covered with pine trees and has stunning mesmerizing views of the surrounding valleys.
Sainj Valley Not widely popular and located at the lower areas of the Great Himalayan National Park, Sainj Valley, along with the Tirthan Valley, forms the Great Himalayan National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site today. The Shangchul Mahadev temple, located in Shangarh, sits majestically on an expansive meadow. The main temple, a multi-storeyed building with intricate wooden carvings was gutted in a fire in 1998 but was soon restored. Smaller temples are scattered all around the place, with many stories woven around them. The Shangarh meadow is more beautiful than the more frequented Khajjiar and a visit here while in Sainj is a must. The Pundrik Rishi lake remains dry today, but is filled with countless beliefs and stories and one is not supposed to touch the waters of the lake. Shanshar is a village which has the Manu temple, believed to be hundreds of years old, built in the Pagoda style as well as another dedicated to Manu at Talyara village, which opens up to a view of the far-reaching valley and mountains of the national park. Other temples include the Ashapuri and the Budha Narayan temples which are built of stone and wood and have a gabled roof, reflecting the art and architecture of the region. Beginning at Neuli, the Raktisar Trek is a riverside trek that goes up to Raktisar, where the river Sainj originates. A seven day trek to cover 92 km, the best time to do the trek is between April and June or October and November. Another favoutitr trek is the one from the Sainj valley, the Tirthan valley through dense forests and streams with loads of walnut trees and medicinal plants. This trek, which take around either to nine days to cover is for experienced trekkers and offers a transition from one valley to another. The Jiwa Nala trek takes one amidst dense forests and lakes, with overarching views of the Himalayas. During this trek, one will come across two passes, the Kandi Galu at 3,700 metres and the Phangchi Galu at 4,700 metres and will take nine days. A permit is required to undertake this trek and permits can be got from the Great Himlayan National Park office at the Sainj village. The Lapah to Shumga trek is by far the most difficult one as it takes one to the highest altitude here at 12,500 ft with sceneries ranging from meadows to jungles to open landscapes with mountains bordering the way. Beginning at Shangarh, there is a defined trail up to Lapah, where one can set up camps and then the path leads one into thickets before arriving at Shumga. For a novice trekker, there are shorter trails available.
Barot Barot is a beautiful village located in the serene valleys of Mandi about 67 km from Mandi. The scenic landscapes are captivating, and the unpolluted air is famous for its numerous trekking trails.An unexplored and unexploited landscape, it came into limelight when the Shanan Hydroelectric Project was proposed around 1920. The project was to utilize the hydroelectric potential of the river Uhl. The forests around the village are mostly Deodar and Oak that grow in abundance and is home to a variety of flora and fauna. Fishing in the river Uhl is popular because of a trout breeding centre which makes it a perfect place for angling with over 30 km of the river used for this purpose. Across the River Uhl is the Nargu Wildlife Sanctuary which is a great picnic spot and home to a variety of flora and fauna. There are numerous trails around the Barot valley with the Barot Himri Trek along the mule trail quite famous and during winters, many visit Barot for snow trekking. Astronomy enthusiasts visit Barot to get stunning views of the night sky since the village is far away from city lights and located in the midst of a valley.
Bir Billing A small town, Bir is named after Birsen the ancestor of the Sen dynasty and ruled by the Pal dynasty of the Chandarvanshi lineage. The town is known for the adventures sports like paragliding, treks and also as the town for meditation because of the influence of the Tibetan culture. One of the best spots in the world for paragliding, the take-off site in Bir is called Billing and the landing site is Bir and the overall altitude change is around 800m. Visitors can also go for short hikes, visit the monasteries, take a ride in the nearby Jogindernagar-Pathankot Narrow Gauge train or just spend a day at the tea gardens. In 1966 the third Neten Chokling, an incarnate lama of the Nyingma lineage of Tibetan Buddhism, brought his family and a small entourage to Bir and with the help of foreign aid, purchased over 200 acres of land and established a Tibetan settlement where 300 Tibetan families were given land to build houses. Chokling Rinpoche also started building a new Neten monastery and disciples who had followed him into India formed its first sangha. The Chokling Monastery or Pema Ewan Chogar Gyurme Ling Monastery is one of the main attractions of Bir and t houses a grand and colossal stupa as well as an enthralling statue of Padmasambhava. The monastery is divided into a passageway, a temple and a prayer hall. The Palpung Sherabling monastery located at Keori near Bir, is a religious centre of eastern Tibet that offers Buddhist studies and other forms of living art and culture along with Periodic courses in Buddhist meditation and philosophy. The monastery is divided into an old and new structure which creates a confusion amongst visitors as the two lie at quite a distance from each other and is one of the branches of Palpung Monastery of Eastern Tibet, Palpung which means glorious union of study and practice. The monastery complex has a school, college and university. The monastery houses an enormous stupa of Maitri Budh, the one who is yet to come. The Lamas perform the Mahakal Lama dance on certain days. The monastery complex is massive and sits in the middle of the forest, at the foot of the Himalayas, surrounded by pine trees. The Gunehar waterfalls in Gunehar village, is tucked away on a hillock around 1.5 km away from Bir. At a height of 100 ft., the gorgeous waterfall can be reached through a short trek from the village with the crystal clear water cascading down the hillock a sheer visual delight. The Bir Cooperative Tea Factory is located near the Bir Bazaar Road and manufacturers the local tea of this region and offers tours of the factory.
Palampur Nestled between the majestic Dhauladhar ranges amidst pine and deodar forests as well as tea gardens encircling the town and numerous streams pouring in, Palampur was first noticed by the British that was soon turned into a bustling town. The town derives its name from the local word palum, meaning much water. Once part of Jalandhar kingdom, the town came into being when Dr. Jameson, Superintendent of Botanical Gardens, introduced the tea bush from Almora in 1849 and since then, the Kangra tea of Palampur has been known internationally. The Tashi Jong Monastery complex has a college for freshers and a Tibetan restaurant beside the main shrine. Inhabited by the Tibetans for many years, the place has a quaint serenity about it with Tibetan artefacts sold in the crafts emporium. The hilltop temple of Chamunda Devi is one among the 51 Shakti Peethas approximately 10 km west of Palampur, on the banks of the river Baner. Chamundeshwari Devi is said to be one of the most powerful avatars of Goddess Durga and Navratri a prominent festival. The temple has engravings from the Mahabharat and Ramayana and is designed in the traditional Himachali architecture style. It is believed that the Chamunda Devi temple came into being during the 1500s when goddess Chamunda appeared in a local priest’s dream and urged the idol to be shifted to a specific spot which hosts the present-day temple. Also referred to as Raktha Kali, Charchika and Chamundeshwari, Chamunda Devi is a terrifying version of Goddess Durga or Durga Maa as locals refer her. It is said that a corner within the temple has the footsteps of the goddess on a rock and the temple has a staircase in marble that leads downwards to a Shiva cave, where the Lingam is worshipped. The Shiva temple here, known as Nandikashwar Mahadev. Palampur is known as the tea Capital of northern India and is famous for its vast spreads of lush tea gardens. Tea was introduced in the 19th century and since then Palampur has become quite famous for its speciality teas, especially Kangra Tea. The first tea plantation was started in Palampur by Dr Jameson, the Superintendent of the Botanical Gardens, North-West Frontier Province. Today, the tea gardens cover an area of 1,000 hectares and produces 8,50,000 kgs of tea every year. The tea plantations are open from 10:30 am to 12:30 pm and then again between 1:30 to 4:30 pm. The Saurabh Van Vihar is a nature park dedicated to a soldier Saurabh Kalia, a martyr in the Kargil War located on the banks of the snow-fed Neugel Khad in the village of Kwat and is spread over a total area of 13 km. Saurabh Van Vihar is located 4 km from Palampur and offers a panoramic view of the Dhauladhar range and is home to a wide variety of plants, trees and birds. The park is open between 9 am to 7 pm and has an entry fee of INR 10. A picnic spot located 2 km away from town, Neugal Khad is a beautiful place to enjoy nature’s beauty. People watch at the Neugal cafe which is maintained by the government. The most popular attraction in Palampur is experiencing a toy train ride which is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The train commutes between Palampur and Pathankot and takes one on a hilly ride amidst lush green forests, shimmering waterfalls and across meandering rivers. While one will definitely enjoy the picturesque vistas enroute, they will also cross rural villages and witness the rural way of living in the hills.
Kasol A quaint little village on the banks of the Parvati river, Kasol is popularly known as the Amsterdam of India. Kasol is 23 kms from Bhuntar and next to Manikaran and is famous for its trekking trails. Also known as Little Israel because of a large number of people from Israel, Kasol has few streetside cafes and sitting there and enjoying a meal amidst the dark green forests and the awe-inspiring mountains make the meal even more enjoyable. The Parvati river flows through the Parvati Valley with the thundering river originating from the Man Talai glacier, flowing north of Parvati Valley and eventually flowing into the Beas River near Kulu. Kheerganga is a tiny village with the Kheerganga Waterfalls a small stream of cascading water from the rocky hills on the side, en route to Kheerganga amidst the backdrop of beautiful green hills and lush greenery and is a popular stopping point in the Kheerganga trek. A little further from Kasol is the village of Chalal which is situated at an altitude of over 5300 feet and a 30-minute trek from Kasol and is favoured by backpacker and trekkers. Rasol is located at 10,000 feet above sea level with breathtaking views of the snow-capped Himalayas. Rasol is a three to four hour trek from Kasol with Chalal the starting point of the trek. The village temple is devoted to Jamdagini Rishi, an incarnation of Lord Vishnu. The villagers offer prayers to their deity, but if outsiders enter the temple premises, they are fined INR 2000. Located 3 km from Barsheini, Pulga is located amidst denser deodar trees, waterfalls and apple orchards and is known for its scenic beauty and wooden homestays and is only accessible on foot. Kheer Ganga at 3050 meters lies at the extreme end of the Parvati valley and the last inhibited village while trekking to Pin Valley via the Pin-Parvati pass. Kheerganga has a hot water spring, a small temple of Lord Shiva and a bathing tank. The Pin Parvati Pass is the perfect destination for the trekkers seeking a challenging adventure and is an amazing Trans Himalayan trek of approximately 110 km. The trek is not really well defined but get worse during the monsoon season. Blessed with diverse terrain and rich in nature’s beauty, the Sar Pass Trek is the perfect trek destination for beginners which passes through thick forests, lush green meadows, rustic villages, and snow clad mountains in the backdrop.
Naggar Set against the backdrop of majestic hills and the clear and pristine Beas River, Naggar is home to the Naggar castle, once the residence of Raja Sidh Singh of Kullu. Situated on the left bank of the river Beas at an altitude of 1,800 meters, Naggar is an ancient town and was once capital of the Kullu kingdom and was founded by Visudh Pal and remained as the capital until that was moved to Sultanpur by Raja Jagat Singh. Naggar Castle, the official seat of kings for centuries. was built by Raja Sidh Singh more than 500 years ago. According to a legend, he used stones from the abandoned palace or Gardhak of Rana Bhonsal to build the castle. Labourers were ordered to form a human chain over the Beas river to transfer the stones manually. The castle is a unique blend of the western and Himalayan styles of architecture. The castle, which is open from 7 am to 10 pm daily survived the earthquake of 1905 even though most houses in the valley and the nearby city of Jawa were completely ruined. The castle also houses a temple in the courtyard known as the Jagtipatt temple which has alternate slabs of deodar timber, making it an earthquake resistant structure. Naggar castle was taken over by the Himachal Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation (HPTDC) in 1978 to be run as a heritage hotel and has an entry fee of INR 15 per person and a camera fee of INR 25. The Russian painter and explorer Nicholas Roerich who settled in Naggar in the early 20th century has a two storied house, the Roerich Estate which today is a museum and features a collection of his popular paintings. The Gauri Shankar temple located just below castle is dedicated to Lord Shiva was built in the 11th century and is said to be the last structure of the Gurjara-Pratihara traditions. The temple has stone carvings with the stunning medieval architecture. A unique temple, the Tripura Sundari temple, built completely of deodar wood, is host to a rather unique practice, where every Baisakh, it receives the shrouds of dead bodies as clothes for the goddesses. The Chamunda Bhagati temple in Nishala village is surrounded by some of the most beautiful sceneries in the region. The Dagpo Shedrupling monastery is a recent addition built in 2005 with breathtaking views dedicated to His Holiness the Dalai Lama. Originally established as a research institute in 1928 by the Russian Professor Nicolas Roerich with the aim of creating an intellectual environment where research on Tibetan and Indian medicine could be carried out, the Uruswati Himalayan Folk Art museum is located 100m uphill from the Nicolas K. Roerich Art Gallery. The name Urusvati which means the light of the morning star was named in 1993 and the museum is based on Russian folk art and houses various musical instruments and stone carvings made by Roerich himself. The Roerich Art Gallery and Estate houses a good collection of Roerich’s art, his car and the house where he stayed. Located at slightly secluded location and not far from the Naggar Castle, the estate a nice forest area or garden with a large number of deodar trees and a great view of the peaks around.
Manikaran Sahib Located at a distance of 4 km from Kasol at an altitude of 1760 m along the banks of river Parvati, Manikaran is known as a famous pilgrimage destination for both Sikhs and Hindus. There are three hot springs where one can take a bath, one being inside the Gurudwara itself and the other two privatised by guesthouses. The water in these springs contain sulphur capable of curing diseases. The water is hot enough to prepare food by directly placing the vessels and is served as langar.
Hindus believe that Sage Manu recreated human life in Manikaran after the flood. Another legend says that when the Lord Shiva and his consort Parvati were walking in the valley where they live for eleven hundred years, Parvati dropped one of her earrings. The jewel was seized by Shesha, the serpent deity, who then disappeared into the earth with it. Shesha only surrendered the jewel when Shiva performed the cosmic dance, the Tandava and shot the jewel up through the water. Apparently, jewels continued to be thrown up in the waters at Manikaran until the 1905 Kangra earthquake. The name Manikaran is derived from this legend as mani is jewel in most Indian languages. According to the Sikhs, during third Udasi, the founder of Sikhism Guru Nanak came to this place in 1574 with his disciple Bhai Mardana who felt hungry but they had no food. The Guru sent Mardana to collect food for the langar or the community kitchen with people donating flour to make rotis or flatbread. The problem was that there was no fire to cook the food, so Guru Nanak asked Mardana to lift a stone and a hot spring appeared. As directed by Guru Nanak, Mardana put the rolled chapatis in the spring which then sank and was told to pray to God by promising to donate one roti in his name if they float back. When Mardana prayed, all the chapatis started floating back, duly baked and the Guru said that anyone who donates in the name of God, will have his drowned items float back.
The Sri Guru Nanak Devji Gurudwara is mentioned in the Twelfth Guru Khalsa by Giani Gian Sikh. A highly revered center for worship amongst Sikhs, this Gurudwara is believed to have been visited by the Guru Nanak with his five disciples. The langar here is very big and it serves free food to disciples and the needy. A highly revered temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, the Shiva temple was slightly damaged and tilted due to an earthquake in 1905. It is said that Gods of Kullu pay regular visits to this temple. The Kulant Pith is said to be the most sacred and superior of all the piths in India. It is believed that Lord Shiva stayed here for some time. The Vishnu Kund is believed to be the purest of all the kunds and a dip into this is believed to wash away all sins. Also, locals believe that this place takes away all the anger and evil of the individuals dipping into it. Another belief is that having food boiled in the water here can take one to Vishnu’s abode in heaven. Built in the 17th century by Raja Jagat Singh, the Lord Ramachandra temple’s legend says that Lord Rama brought it from Ayodhya. The temple is famous for its idols of Lord Rama and Goddess Sita and is located in the center of the city with three halls and 40 rooms for devotees who visit. The hot springs in Manikaran Sahib contain uranium and other radioactive elements and is believed to cure diseases. The water in these springs are extremely hot, so much so, that one can even boil rice in these. The town of Manikaran is surrounded by the snow-capped mountains of the Harinder mountains to the north with breathtaking views from the town.
Tosh Popular for its cannabis plantations and located at the far end of the Parvati Valley at 2,400 m in elevation, Tosh is untouched by modernisation and the fast-paced life. With its gradual terrain and the waters of river Parvati flowing through the village, the Tosh Kasol trek is the go-to trek for adrenaline junkies. The best time to visit Tosh is between April to October, though it has a pleasant weather throughout the year. The period from November to February sees the whole village covered in snow and can be a good time to visit to experience the freezing cold and snow. Tosh is the place one comes to just chill and enjoy the peaceful surroundings for a laid back holiday. In the centre of the village, there is a temple of Jamdagni Rishi which is opened only once a year during January or February. The temple has a long verandah which provides a breathtaking view of the surrounding snow-capped Himalayan ranges.
Parvati Valley Running along the various destinations in the state, the precipitous and stunning Parvati Valley is famous for backpacker hangouts and adventure activities. From the confluence of the Parvati River with the Beas river, the Parvati Valley runs eastwards, through a steep-sided valley from the town of Bhuntar. The Parvati River is joined by many smaller tributaries along the way that result in many beautiful cascading waterfalls. A clear-view of the Himalayas greet visitors as they indulge in trekking, camping and river rafting. The precipitous valley road climbs past a side valley leading to the village of Malana near Kasol. From here, the road passes through the pilgrimage town of Manikaran and terminates at Pulga, where the construction of the Parvati Hydel Project, a hydroelectric dam, dominates the landscape. From Pulga, the footpath climbs to a temple and small dhaba at the Rudra-Nag waterfall, apparently after its resemblance of a water snake. Beyond the Rudra-Nag waterfall, the trail ascends further through thick pine forests to Kheerganga where Lord Shiva is said to have meditated for 3000 years. From Kheerganga to Tunda Bhuj village at 3285 m, the Parvati Valley cuts a steep-sided gorge through the mountains and as the altitude increases, the thick, coniferous forest gradually makes way for patches of meadowlands scattered with boulders. Several tributaries join the main Parvati river and numerous waterfalls cascade down the steep valley sides. Beyond Tunda Bhuj, the conifers continue only as far as the Basuki Nal tributary but groves of silver birch continue to line the valley, quickly becoming sparse as the altitude increases. At Thakur Kuan village which is at an altitude of 3560 m, the Parvati Valley meets the valley of the Dibibokri Nal river which is a tributary of the Parvati River, which then climbs towards the northeast to the Dibibokri Glacier and the Dibibokri Pyramid mountain peak at 6400 m. The area is characterised by abundant alpine flowers and rocky outcrops glittering with mica. Beyond the Thakur Kuan village, the Parvati Valley ascends gradually to the Pandupul village where two natural, rock bridges cross the Parvati River and a southern tributary. According to legend, these bridges were created by the massive strength of the Pandava brothers. From Pandupul, the wide valley of the upper Parvati valley climbs gradually through the wide, high-altitude meadowland of Odi Thatch to the sacred site of Mantalai Lake at 4100 m, the source of the Parvati River. Continuing east from the Mantalai lake, it is possible to cross the Pin Parvati Pass at 5319 m into the Pin Valley National Park and on to the Mudh village in the Lahul and Spiti district.
More absolutely stunning locations from Himachal coming your way in the next part…
Memories and Such 
