Fabrics and Sarees of India Part 2

In this part, we continue to check out more fabrics and sarees across India.

Karnataka

Ilkal Sarees: Known because it is produced in the town of Ilkal, an ancient weaving centre since the 8th century, the uniqueness of the Ilkal saree is in the joining of the body warp with the pallu warp with a series of loops locally called the tope teni technique. The border colour is very dominating and is usually red or maroon. The distinctive feature of the Ilkal saree is the use of a form of embroidery called Kasuti. The designs used in Kasuti reflect traditional patterns like palanquins, elephants, and lotuses which are embroidered onto the saree. The main body design is usually made up of squares and rectangles. The Ilkal saris are woven using cotton warp on the body and art silk warp for the border and pallu portion. In some cases instead of art silk, pure silk is also used. The Tope Teni seragu has been regarded as a state symbol and was greatly respected during festival occasions. The sarees that are made for bridal wear are made of a particular colour called Giri Kumukum which is associated with the sindoor worn by the wives of the priests in this region. The weaving of the Ilkal saree is a household enterprise involving the participation of female members. One Ilkal saree takes about seven days to weave and are produced on pit looms.

Mysore Silk: One of Karnataka’s most famous exports, the Mysore silk is synonymous with the city of Mysuru and the silk factory was founded in 1912 by Sri Nalvadi Krishnaraja Wodeyar, the Maharaja of Mysore. Initially, the silk fabrics were manufactured & supplied to meet the requirements of the royal family and ornamental fabrics to their armed forces. After Indian independence, the Mysore State Sericulture Dept took control of the silk weaving factory. The saree zari contains 65% pure silver and 0.65% of gold, which is also the most distinct feature of the saree, along with the use of genuine silk that gives it a natural sheen and rich texture. Karnataka produces almost 45% of the country’s mulberry silk. Mysore silk has also received geographical identification. Mysore Silks are also one of the most expensive silk sarees in India and this has led to the production of duplicate Mysore silk saree production and sales. To avoid these issues, KSIC has implemented a unique ID, hologram-based design, and unique identification barcodes woven on each saree produced.

Kerala

Kasavu Saree: Symbolic of Kerala’s tradition and culture, the traditional Kasavu saree was made by hand from cotton yarn with borders made of golden threads. Believed to have originated in the Buddhist era, the white and gold sarees are unique due to their natural hues, texture and gold border which adds to their elegance. No occasion in Kerala feels complete without the Kasavu saree. The term kasavu refers to the zari or gold thread used in the border of the saree and the name comes from a material used in the weaving and production of these sarees. The origin of the kasavu saree can be traced back to when women would wear a two-piece cloth called settu mundu, more popularly known as the mundum neriyathum. The mundum neriyathum rose in popularity during the Buddhist era, and its design has been inspired by the Greco-Roman attire, Palmyrene, a long piece of unstitched cloth with a coloured border.

The identity of the saree comes from the geographical cluster they are associated with. The Indian government has identified three clusters in Kerala – Balaramapuram, Chendamangalam and Kuthampully – that have been given a Geographical Indication or GI tag and all three clusters produce kasavu sarees. A plain saree with a simple border takes roughly around three to five days. Ones with motifs and heavier work take longer than that. The sarees are priced depending on the time taken on their production, along with the gold used in the zari or kasavu.

Madhya Pradesh

Chanderi: Emerging between the 2nd and 7th centuries, Chanderi sarees are produced from three types of fabrics – pure silk, cotton and silk cotton and are synonymous with the town of Chanderi which is on the boundary of Malwa and Bundelkhand. In the 11th century, the trade locations between Malwa, Medwa, central India and south Gujarat increased the region’s importance. Around 1350, Koshti weavers from Jhansi migrated to Chanderi and settled there and the textile business of Chanderi reached its peak during the Mughal period. Traditional coin, floral art, peacocks and modern geometric designs are woven into different Chanderi patterns. The saris are among the finest in India and are known for their gold and silver brocade or zari, fine silk, and opulent embroidery.

Maheshwari: Originating from the town of Maheshwar, the Maheshwari saree is made of silk and cotton in a variety of designs woven using brocade and zari. Dating to the 18th century, the sarees were initially made of pure silk, but over time, cotton also came to be used. An interesting story behind the origin of these sarees is that a famous queen had once ordered a large number of artisans and craftsmen from Surat and Malwa to design a unique saree of 9 yards, later termed the Maheshwari saree. These cloth pieces were used as special gifts for the royal guests of the palace. A unique feature of the Maheshwari saree is that each has a specific name of its own, which indicates its distinctness. The sarees may be plain at the centre and have neatly designed borders, or they may have different variations of stripes and checks. The sarees fall under 5 broad categories namely Chandratara, Chandrakala, Beli, Baingani Chandrakala and Parbi. The Baingani Chandrakala and Chandrakala are plain ones, while the Beli, Chandratara, and Parbi come with stripes or checks.

Maharashtra

Karvati: Hailing from the Vidarbha region, Karvati silks are made from Tussar with a grainy, textural feel. What is unique about the silk used in Karvati saris is that it is exclusive to this specific region that is rich in high-quality silk cocoons, straight from the wild. The tribes hailing from this area assume the responsibility of protecting the silk cocoons until they are ready to be harvested. The Tussar is unlike any other silk; it has a unique shade of deep yellow-brown.

The word karvat is a Marathi term that refers to a saw-tooth pattern. Karvati is the name lent to the style of the border rather than the fabric itself. What is different about the saree is the technique and the mixed usage of yarn. The border is woven out of mercerized cotton yarns with traditional temple motifs of various sizes, using an extra warp while the rest of the sari is woven using pure, hand-reeled Tussar silk which provides a texture that has irregular stubs all over. The saree is woven using a three-shuttle, tapestry style of weaving with a pit loom mounted with a wooden lattice dobby in the Nagpur style on the top of the loom. This means that it uses three different styles of weaving at the same time.

Paithani: Dating to the Satvahana Dynasty that ruled between the second century BC and the second century AD, Paithani sarees are fine silk handloom sarees get their name from the town in which they originated, Paithan in Aurangabad. Available in both six and nine yards, the most interesting part about the Paithani handloom is that both sides of the saree look the same, including the border and the pallu. This feature is the telltale sign of a handloom Paithani. As Paithani sarees are woven from naturally dyed threads, they can usually be found only in basic colours. Each saree usually has two dominating colours, one on the saree and the other on the border and pallu. The Paithani is characterised by borders of an oblique square design, and a pallu with a peacock design. Among other varieties, single-coloured and kaleidoscope-coloured designs are also popular. The kaleidoscopic effect is achieved by using one colour for weaving lengthwise and another for weaving width-wise.

The Paithani is a sari made of silk and zari with a plain weave, with weft figuring designs according to the principles of the tapestry. Traditionally, Paithanis had coloured, cotton muslin fields that often contained considerable supplementary zari patterning. However, in the 19th century, silk fields were also woven. Due to its proximity to the Ajanta caves, the influence of Buddhist paintings can be seen in the woven Paithani motifs. These sarees are made of silk in which there is no extra weft forming figures. Weaving could take between 18 and 24 months, depending upon the complexity of the design. In the days of Peshwas, the borders and the pallu were made of pure gold mixed with copper to give it strength spun into a fine wire called the zari. In recent times, zari is made of silver, coated with gold plating. In the border woven with a zari, ground-coloured silk patterns are added as supplementary weft inlay against the zari usually in the form of a flower or a creeping vine.

Odisha

Bomkai: Also known as the Sonepuri Saree, the Bomkai Saree is a handloom saree from the Bomkai village and has a GI tag. Usually made of cotton, these sarees are also made of silk for special occasions. During the time of Ramai Dev the then ruler of Patna, it was introduced in Sonepur. The borders and pallus are usually designed with fishes as it is believed to be a sign of success and affluence. The sari is normally dyed in red, black and white.

Khandua: A traditional bandha or ikat saree, Khandua is also known as Maniabandi or Kataki and is worn during weddings with a special type of fabric worn by Lord Jagannath which contain texts of the Geeta Govinda on them. The word Khandua in Odia translates to the cloth worn in the lower half of the body. Traditionally Kentuli Khandua is offered to Jagannath as lower cloth. The weaver communities of Maniabandha and Nuapatana of Cuttack traditionally wove this kind of fabric and during the rule of the Gajapatis, the sarees were made and transported to the Jagannath Temple. Nilakantha Deva, the King of Badakhemundi was offered khandua sari made of one piece of khandua silk called caukandika. Khandua is traditionally red or orange in colour with the red colour prepared naturally from the sal tree. The design motif has an auspicious elephant that represents Buddha surrounded by a trailing vine with peacocks in it, a large many-petaled flower, an animal  unique to Orissa known as Nabagunjara. The elephant in Khandua ikat from Nuapatana usually varies from elephant motives in ikat from the Sambalpuri saree as well as the ikat from other parts of Orissa. The Khandua has plain borders contrary to borders with motifs in the case of the other ikats from the state.

Pasapali: Also known as the Saktapar, the Pasapali saree is a bandha or Ikat handloom sari woven mainly in the Bargarh district. The name Pasapali is derived from pasa or gambling games using a chess board and these sarees have intricate check patterns of contrasting colours resembling the chess boards which gives it its name.

Sambalpuri: A traditional handwoven ikat where the warp and the weft are tie-dyed before weaving, the Sambalpuri saree is known for its incorporation of traditional motifs, all of which have deep symbolism in red, black and white that represent Odia culture. The high point of these sarees is the traditional craftsmanship of the Bandhakala, or the tie-dye art reflected in their intricate weaves, also known as Sambalpuri Ikkat. In this technique, the threads are first tie-dyed and later woven into a fabric, with the entire process taking many weeks. These sarees also have a Geographical Indication or GI tag associated with them. Traditionally, craftsmen created the ikats with images of flora or fauna or with geometrical patterns, but recently the ikats depict portraits and landscapes are also being designed. The unique feature of this form of designing is that the designs are reflected almost identically on both sides of the fabric. Once the fabric is dyed it can never be bleached into another colour. It is believed that this art migrated to western Odisha along with the Bhulia community who fled north India in 1192 after the fall of the Chouhan empire at the hands of the Mughals.

Punjab

Phulkari: Punjab’s folk embroidery, Phulkari which means floral work also includes motifs and geometrical shapes. In Punjabi, Phul means flower and Akari means the shape and so Phulkari means the shape and the direction of flowers which symbolise life. The main characteristics of Phulkari embroidery are the use of darn stitch on the wrong side of coarse cotton cloth with coloured silken thread. The traditional varieties of Phulkaris are large items of cloth and include Chope, Tilpatr, Neelak and Bagh. Sometimes, the Bagh is given separate categorisation of its own as on other varieties of a Phulkari, parts of the cloth are visible, whereas, in a Bagh, the embroidery covers the entire garment so that the base cloth is not visible. Today, in contemporary designs, the simple and sparsely embroidered dupattas and shawls made for everyday use, are referred to as phulkari, while clothing items that cover the entire body, made for special and ceremonial occasions such as weddings are called baghs or large gardens. The Phulkari continues to be an integral part of Punjabi weddings to the present day.

In the past, as soon as a girl was born, mothers and grandmothers would start embroidering Baghs and Phulkaris, which were to be given away at the time of her marriage. Depending on the status of the family, the parents would give a dowry of 11 to 101 Baghs and Phulkaris which were also passed from one generation to the next as heirlooms. The hallmark of Phulkari is making innumerable patterns by using long and short darn stitches. There were no pattern books and embroidery was worked entirely from the reverse of the fabric and the designs were not traced. Techniques and patterns were not documented but transmitted from word of mouth and each regional group was identified with the style of embroidery or design. The most favoured colour was red and its shades. Animals and birds represented success, beauty, pride, and goodwill and different fruits symbolised wealth, prosperity, and fertility. Wheat and barley stalks with ears were also common motifs. Silk and mulmul or soft cotton muslin fabrics were used because of their purity and longevity and it was believed that the virtue and character of a woman gave shape to the Phulkari.

There are different theories about the origin of Phulkari. One such belief is that this embroidery was prevalent in different parts of the country as far back as the 7th century, but survived only in Punjab. Motifs similar to the ones found in Phulkari are also found in Kashida of Bihar and some of the embroideries of Rajasthan. Another thought is that this style of embroidery came from Iran where it was called Gulkari, also meaning floral work.

Rajasthan

Gota Patti: Gota patti or gota work is a type of Indian embroidery that originated in  Rajasthan. Small pieces of zari ribbon are applied onto the fabric with the edges sewn down to create elaborate patterns. Gota embroidery is used extensively in South Asian weddings and formal clothes. Originally real gold and silver metals were used to embroider, but these were eventually replaced by copper coated with silver as it would become very expensive and today, even more, inexpensive options are available.

Kota Doriya: A handloom fabric, Kota Doriya is woven on a traditional pit loom in such a way that it produces square checks pattern on the fabric. The delicately wrought checks are locally known as khats. Onion juice and rice paste are smeared onto the yarn making it so strong that no additional finishing is needed. Kota Doriya sarees are made of pure cotton and silk and have square-like patterns known as khats on them. The chequered weave of a Kota sari is very popular with a very fine weave and weighs very little.

It is said that Jhala Zalim Singh of Kotah brought weavers from Mysore, in the mid-17th century, as they wove a characteristic small squared lightweight cotton fabric that looked like graph paper and was suitable for turbans. Since the weavers had come from Mysore, the fabric produced was called Kota Masuriya and was woven on narrow 8-inch looms to make the traditional paags or turbans and later on, broader looms were used for gossamer-light saris. Silk was added to the cotton in a 20:80 ratio approximately to give the sari strength. Nowadays hand woven silk Kota Doriya saris have also become popular. At first, the design known as a buti was small and regular but larger designs are now made according to fashion and taste. A very ornate saree can take one month to make and is an heirloom piece to be treasured. A genuine Kota Doriya sari will contain the GI mark woven in one corner indicating that it has been hand woven using real silver and gold thread.

Leheriya: Leheriya is a traditional style of tie and dye practised in Rajasthan which is bright in colour, with a distinctive pattern. The word Leheriya comes from the word leher, meaning wave and the tie-dye technique results in diagonal stripes, which look like waves on the fabric. To create diagonal stripes, the craftsmen use a special method of resist-dyeing, where the material, is rolled up diagonally length-wise and then tied tightly at intervals before the actual dyeing process begins. Delicate, light fabrics such as thin cotton voile, fine silk and chiffon are preferred, as they allow the colour to penetrate through the rolled cloth. The fabric is wrapped around a wooden pole, usually while it is still wet or in a semi-dry state. The thread that ties up the fabric acts as a resist, yielding a pattern of diagonal stripes after dyeing. The thickness of the thread and the distance between the ties may be varied to obtain stripes of different widths.

An astounding variety of Leheriya fabrics are produced using this simple process. A panchranga or five-colour design is the most auspicious since the number five is considered special in Hindu scriptures. Another beautiful pattern is the satranga, flaunting the seven colours of the rainbow.

Tamil Nadu

Kanjeevaram: A silk saree which is worn on special occasions, the Kanjeevaram or Kanchipuram is made in the Kanchipuram region. This saree has also been recognised and given the Geographical Indication tag by the Indian government. The sarees are distinguished by their wide contrast borders with temple borders, checks, stripes and floral patterns as traditional designs. The patterns and designs in the Kancheepuram sarees are inspired by the images and scriptures in South Indian temples or natural features like leaves, birds and animals and have rich woven pallus showing the paintings of Raja Ravi Varma and the epics of Mahabharata and Ramayana. As of 2008, an estimated 5,000 families were involved in sari production with 25 silk and cotton yarn industries and 60 dyeing units in the region.

The saris are woven from pure mulberry silk thread, which along with the zari or gold thread comes from South India. To weave a Kanjeevaram saree. three shuttles are used. While the weaver works on the right side, his aide works on the left side shuttle. The border colour and design are usually quite different from the body. If the pallu has to be woven in a different shade, it is first separately woven and then delicately joined to the saree and the part where the body meets the pallu is often denoted by a zigzag line. In a genuine Kajeevaram silk saree, the body and the border are woven separately and then interlocked together. The joint is woven so strongly that even if the saree tears, the border will not detach and this differentiates the Kanjeevaram silk saree from the others. The sarees vary widely in price depending on the intricacy of work, colours, patterns, craftsmanship and materials used.

Koorainaadu: A traditional handloom weaving centre, Koorainadu sarees are by their checks and stripes pattern for which plain looms are used. It is made with pure silk and fine-twisted mercerized cotton yarn, in both warp and weft, in the ratio of 2:1, giving every Koorainadu saree a silk look. A peculiar characteristic of this saree is the formation of cotton checks by the interlacing of warp and weft during weaving which can be woven only by an experienced weaver. The sarees are hence stiffer and easier to hold the pleats which make them easier to wear. Koorainadu sarees are mostly worn by the womenfolk of the Hindu community green and yellow colours are used to make it auspicious and so it is often worn by married women wishing for long-lasting wedlock. The nine-yard Koorainadu saris are made with cotton or cotton and silk, in checks or striped patterns with a contrasting border in yellow. Saris with wide borders are called temple saris because they are offered to the deities in the temple.

Sungudi: Traditional cotton sarees from the Madurai area, Sungudi sarees are defined by the pattern of block prints and tie and dye designs. The origins of Sungudi can be traced back to the Sourashtrians who brought the art with them when they migrated to South India under the patronage of King Thirumalai Naicker in the 17th century. In Saurashtra, the word sungudi relates to the Sanskrit word sunnam meaning round, representing the circular dots that are printed on the fabric as a prominent and special motif.

The dots in the saris are said to be inspired by the cosmos which is why most Sungudi sarees remind one of a starry night. Tying the knots of the sari demands a great amount of precision from the craftsman. Ideally, a three-inch gap between the body and the zari border and also with the pallu lends a neat and symmetrical look to the crude dots. The designs are sometimes marked with a pencil on the fabric for ease in the process. The Sungudi art has seven basic designs that can be modified with different permutations and combinations to provide variety and highlight the creativity of the craftsman. The smaller the dot the better the expertise and this comes only with extensive practice and time. In the early days people used rudimentary methods like tying the knots with mustard or peppercorn seeds. Although this seems like a rural and unpolished method, its success lay in its simplicity. Authentic Sungudi is more than just tying knots. There is a lot of meticulousness that goes into producing a piece that looks effortless.  Once the knots are tied in the desired pattern, the sari is clamped which involves pleating, twisting, folding and wrapping it tightly before dyeing it for around two hours. Then the sari is subjected to two rounds of washing with cold water with an organic fixing agent followed by drying and ironing. The resultant fabric is a beautiful sheet like stars in the sky. In 2005 the art of Sungudi tie and dye got the GI recognition tag.

In the next part, the last one, we will do the last few states and also learn about some interesting saree drapes.

Festivals of India: Jagannath Rath Yatra

Yesterday, June 23, was the most important festival in the state of Odisha. It was the chariot festival or the rath yatra of its most famous dieties, the Jagannath of Puri.

The term Rath Yatra particularly refers to the annual Rathajatra in Odisha, Jharkhand, West Bengal and other East Indian states, particularly the chariot festival fof Puri that involves a public procession with a chariot with deities Jagannath, an avatar of Lord Vishhnu, his brother Balabhadra and his sister Subhadra, along with his weapon, the Sudarshana Chakra on a ratha, a wooden deula-shaped chariot. The rath yatra attracts over a million Hindu pilgrims who join the procession each year.

According to Knut Jacobsen, a Rathayatra has religious origins and meaning, but the events have a major community heritage, social sharing and cultural significance to the organisers and participants. Ratha Yatra processions have been historically common in Vishnu-related traditions in Hinduism across India, as well as in Shiva-related traditions, and amongst the Thirtankars in Jainism and the saints and goddesses in Nepal plus the tribal folk religions found in the eastern states of India.

Derived from two Sanskrit words, Ratha meaning chariot or carriage and yatra which means a journey or pilgrimage, the word Ratha Yatra means a pilgrimage which the deity will undertake in a chariot, accompanied by the public. The term appears in the medieval texts of India as the Puranas, which mention the Rathayatra of Surya or the Sun god, of Devi or the Mother Goddess, and of Vishnu. These chariot journeys have elaborate celebrations where the individuals or the deities come out of a temple accompanied by the public journeying with them through the Kshetra which refers to the region, city or even the local streets to another temple or to the river or the sea. Sometimes the festivities include returning to the sacrosanctum of the temple.

The Jagannath Ratha Yatra also called the Car or Chariot Festival is the oldest Ratha Yatra descriptions can be found in Brahma Purana, Padma Purana, Skanda Purana and Kapila Samhita. This annual festival is celebrated on Ashadha Shukla Paksha Dwitiya or the second day in bright fortnight of Ashadha month. This year it was on 23 June 2020. The festival commemorates Lord Jagannath’s annual visit to the Gundicha Temple via the Mausi Maa or the maternal aunt’s Temple near Saradha Bali in Puri.

As part of the Ratha Yatra, the deities Lord Jagannath, his elder brother Lord Balabhadra and younger sister Devi Subhadra, along with the Sudarshan Chakra, are taken out in a procession out of the main shrine of Jagannath Temple and placed in the Ratha or Chariot which are ready in front of the Temple in a process called ‘Pahandi’. The procession starts with ‘Madan Mohan’ then ‘Sudarshana’ Balabhadra, Subhadra, and Jagannath Deva.

After that, Gajapati Maharaja, the king of Puri, who is also known as the first servitor of the Lords, does the ‘Chhera Pahanra’ ritual or the holy cleaning of the chariots in which the king wears the outfit of a sweeper and sweeps all around the deities and the chariots. The Gajapati King cleanses the road before the chariots with a gold-handled broom and sprinkles sandalwood water and powder with utmost devotion. This ritual signified that under the lordship of Jagannath, there is no distinction between the powerful sovereign Gajapati King and the most humble devotee. After this ritual, finally the devotees pull the chariots up to the Gundicha Temple, which is also known as the birthplace of the Lords.

Once the deities reach the Gundicha temple, in the onward car festival, they are taken in the Pahandi and installed on the holy platform, called the Ratna Simhasan. The Lords remain at the Gundicha Temple for nine days. After that, the process of taking back the deities to the Main temple is observed. The return journey or return car festival of Puri Jagannath Ratha Jatra is known as Bahuda Yatra or Punar Yatra.

Three richly decorated chariots, resembling temple structures, are pulled through the streets of Puri called Badadanda. This commemorates the annual journey of Lord Jagannath, Lord Balabhadra, and their sister Devi Subhadra to their aunt’s temple, the Gundicha Temple which is situated at a distance of over 3 km from the main temple. The chariots are richly decorated with painted flower petals and other designs on the wheels, the wood-carved charioteer and horses, and the inverted lotuses on the wall behind the throne by local artists and painters. The huge chariots of Jagannath pulled during Rath Jatra is the etymological origin of the English word Juggernaut. The Ratha-Jatra is also termed as the Shri Gundicha jatra.This is the only time when devotees who are not allowed in the temple premises, such as non-Hindus and foreigners, get a glimpse of the deities.

The three chariots of Balabhadra, Subhadra and Jagannatha are newly constructed every year with wood of specified trees. They are customarily brought from the ex-princely state of Dasapalla by a specialist team of carpenters who have hereditary rights and privileges for the same. The logs are traditionally set afloat as rafts in the river Mahanadi. These are collected near Puri and then transported by road. The three chariots are decorated as per the unique scheme prescribed and followed for centuries. Covered with bright canopies made of stripes of red cloth and combined with those of black, yellow and green colours, the huge chariots are lined across the wide avenue in front of the majestic temple close to its eastern entrance, which is also known as the Sinhadwara or the Lion’s Gate.

Lord Jagannatha’s chariot is called Nandighosa. It is forty-five feet high and forty-five feet square at the wheel level. It has sixteen wheels, each of seven-foot diameter, and is decked with a cover made of red and yellow cloth. Lord Jagannatha is identified with Krishna, who is also known as Pitambara, the one attired in golden yellow robes and hence the distinguishing yellow stripes on the canopy of this chariot. The chariot of Lord Balarama, called the Taladhwaja, is the one with the Palm Tree on its flag. It has fourteen wheels, each of seven-foot diameter and is covered with red and green cloth. Its height is forty-four feet. The chariot of Subhadra, known as Dwarpadalana, literally “trampler of pride,” is forty-three feet high with twelve wheels, each of seven-foot diameter. This chariot is decked with a covering of red and black cloth – black being traditionally associated with Shakti and the Mother Goddess.

Around each of the chariots are nine Parsva devatas, painted wooden images representing different deities on the chariots’ sides. Each of the chariots is attached to four horses. These are of different colours – dark ones for Balarama, white ones for Jagannatha, and red ones for Subhadra. Each chariot has a charioteer called Sarathi. The three charioteers attached to the chariots of Jagannatha, Balarama and Subhadra respectively are Daruka, Matali and Arjuna.

During the annual event, devotees from all over the world throng to Puri with an earnest desire to help pulling the Lords’ chariots. They consider this as an auspicious act. The huge processions accompanying the chariots play devotional songs with drums, sounding plates of bell metal, cymbals, etc. The Ratha carts themselves are approximately 45 feet high and 35 feet square and it takes about 2 months to construct the chariots which are pulled by the thousands of pilgrims who turn up for the event; the chariots are built anew each year only from the Neem tree and the wood of no other tree is used.

There are 6 events which are considered as the key activities of this annual spectacular event:

  1. The ‘Snana Yatra’ is the one where the Deities take bath and then fall sick for almost 2 weeks. They are thus treated with ayurvedic medicines and a set of traditional practices.
  2. On ‘Sri Gundicha’, the Deities are taken in the onward car festival from the main shrine to the Gundicha Temple.
  3. On the Bahuda Yatra, the return car festival, the Lords are brought back to the main Temple.
  4. The Suna Besha or Golden Attire is the event when the Deities wear golden ornaments and give darshan from the chariots, to the devotees.
  5. The ‘Adhara Pana’ is an important event during Ratha Yatra. On this day sweet drink is offered to the invisible spirits and souls, who would have visited the celestial event of the Lords, as believed by the Hindu tradition.
  6. And finally the Deities are taken back inside the main shrine i.e. the Jagannath Temple and installed on the Ratna Simhasan, on the last day of the Ratha Yatra activity which is called as ‘Niladri Bije’.

This year, because of the coronavirus panademic and the Covid-19 situation in India and especially in the state of Odisha, with many states under lockdown, uncertainty looms large over the conduct of the annual Rath Yatra for the first time in 284 years. The festival even took place during the great famine of 1766 which was believed to have killed millions and during the cholera epidemic. The festival which took place in Puri this year, was just a token festival which was shorn of all the guander and pomp and pageantry it usually has. The rituals leading to the festival which usually takes place outside took place inside the temple and the festival was short of its usual pomp and splendor without devotes in a historic first, a day after the Supreme Court of India allowed the state to hold the seven-day chariot festival in a restricted fashion amid the coronavirus.

I hope in the near future, when things are more normal, I can make it to Puri to witness this grand spectacle. If you want to read more about the state of Odisha, which I have written in detail, please read Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4 and Part 5.

Travel Bucket List – India: Odisha Part 5

A state which is rich in natural resources, Odisha has some beautiful naure parks, wildlife sanctuaries and other natural beautities. This post is all about these nature’s bounties in the state.

Lake Chilika
Chilika Lake is the largest internal salt water lake in Asia, a paradise for bird watchers and nature lovers. The pear-shaped lake is dotted with a few small islands and has fisheries and salt pans around its shore. The Chilika Lake also houses the most accommodating ecosystems in the world, which means a wide assortment of flora and fauna can be spotted here.

A geological survey has confirmed that Chilka used to be a part of the Bay of Bengal during the late Pleistocene period. The place has an important role to play in the history of India. During the rule of the Kalinga dynasty, Chilka was a bustling commercial centre and a prominent harbour. Ptolemy also talks about the Chilka Lake in his text as an important port.

Spread over an area of 1100 sq km, the Chilika Lake Sanctuary is also one of the most visited sanctuaries in the state. The Chilika Lake attracts an array of birds that choose this spot as their winter stopover, and come to visit this lake from as far as Iran, Siberia and Central Asia. The graylag geese, purple moorhen, flamingo, Brahminy Kite, spot-billed pelican, bar-headed goose, open-billed stork, pintail, king fisher, Egret, Avocet, gulls, tern, herons and white-bellied sea eagles are found here in large populations. In fact, the Chilika Bird Sanctuary is home to one of the largest breeding colonies of flamingos in the world.

Some of the interesting and visited places in this area include Bird Island where ornithologists flock in large numbers to witness birds in their natural habitat and Nalabana which is a huge island in the centre of the lake that gets completely submerged during the monsoon months and a designated bird sanctuary. There is also Kalijai Island which is considered to be the abode of Goddess Kalijai. The temple located here has an interesting history to it – it is widely believed that a young girl named Kali, and her sister who later came here looking for her, were both drowned in this island and the residents vouch to have heard their cries. Upon the construction of a temple, the cries ceased, and since then, the place has had a significant religious value. The location is easily accessible via a boat from the Chilika Lake and is a must visit at the time of Makar Sankranti, when the Makar Mela takes place. Then there is Satapada Island which is surrounded by the lagoon on three sides and attracts visitors because it is home to the flagship species of the Chilika Lake, the Irrawaddy dolphins. This island is one of the only two lagoons in the world where this endangered species can now be found. You can easily reach this the island via boats arranged by the Odisha Tourism Development Corporation (OTDC). Other islands, including the Breakfast Island, Beacon Island and Honeymoon Island are also popular attractions that tourist love to visit. Please ensure that when you travel on boats in the lake, you only travel on the ones that have been provided by OTDC, since other local boats do not have life jackets.

The best time to visit the Chilika Lake is the winter months between October to March, when you can see the sheer variety of migratory birds coming there plus you had the added benefit of cooler weather and daytime temperature remains pleasant. Do avoid the monsoon season between June to September.

Tikarpada Wildlife Sanctuary
Spread across a lush 795.52 acress, the Tikarpada Wildlife Sanctuary enthrals visitors with its overwhelming beauty, lush green surrounding, the ever cherished rambling of River Mahanadi besides the very famous Satkosia gorge and the large variety of wild animals, birds and plants. The speciality of Tikarpada is its efforts towards bringing back the endangered gharials or crocodiles. The gharials that find their home here at the Gharial Sanctuary, who were reintroduced in the Mahanadi River ecosystem to increase the level of their population.

Sometimes thunderous and sometimes calm river Mahanadi renders the opportunity for fish angling, or to motor-boat or river rafting across it. You can choose to trek or camp in the sanctuary as well. This a perfect destination for the lovers of nature, wildlife and adventure.

Tikarpada has tropical climatic conditions and so the months between September to March are the best months to visit this place.

Satkosia Tiger Reserve
Satkosia spreads along the magnificent gorge over the mighty river Mahanadi in Odisha. Located around 160 km from Bhubaneswar, this sanctuary created in 1976 is home to tigers in the deciduous forests of the Eastern Ghats. The name Satkosia originates from two words; sat meaning seven and kos meaning two miles, indicating the length of the gorge as 14 miles or 22 km. The area was declared as Satkosia Tiger Reserve in 2007, comprising two adjoining wildlife sanctuaries; the Satkosia Gorge sanctuary and Baisipalli sanctuary. It is also home to elephants, birds and other animals that can be spotted in the wild. The reserve has an area of 963.87sq km with 523.61sq km as core area. The area is also a part of the Mahanadi elephant reserve. Satkosia is the meeting point of two bio-geographic regions of India; the Deccan Peninsula and the Eastern Ghats, contributing immense biodiversity.

When boating, one can spot the river-inhabitants being the Gharials or the Indian fish-eating crocodile. The Mahanadi River passes through a 14 mile long gorge, being the reason why the town was named Satkosia from Saat Kros, Kros being an old local measurement.

There are various lodging options operated by the Odisha Forest Development Corporation in Satkosia. You can also visit the neighbouring Kuanria Deer Park & Dam and the Kantilo Neelamadhav Temple.

Bhitarkanika National Park & Wildlife Sanctuary
Located at a distance of 120 km from Cuttack in Odisha, the Bhitarkanika Wildlife Sanctuary is a one of a kind sanctuary that sprawls over 650 sq. kms and boasts of rich marine vegetation, salt tolerant varieties of trees and plants, rivers and creeks. Home to some of the rarest species in the world both in terms of flora and fauna, the sanctuary is mainly known for its species of reptiles especially crocodiles, however, it also attracts a plethora of migrant species like Olive Ridley Sea Turtles, Asian Open Bill, Black Ibis, Egrets, and Darters etc. In the winter (which is the ideal migrating season for avifauna species), you can find as many as 215 species of migratory birds.

The highlight of the wildlife sanctuary is the rare white crocodile that can grow up to 23 feet. Another attraction of the region are the sprawling mangrove trees making it the second largest mangrove forest in India. There are several entrances available for the park, the most popular one of which is boating from Khola to Dangmal. This entrance allows you to walk through the dense forests and experience the rich ecosystem in all its glory. The visitors can also choose to stay at the forest guest houses if they want to spend the night maidst bounteous nature and rich wildlife.

Simlipal National Park
Reflecting the natural beauty of a bygone era, the Simlipal National Park is a beautiful and scenic place. Situated in Mayurbhanj, it once used to be a hunting ground for the rulers of the province. Simlipal is the largest wildlife sanctuary in India and is also considered as one of the principal tiger projects in India. It is part of the Mayurbhanj Elephant Reserve, which includes three protected areas — Similipal Tiger Reserve, Hadgarh Wildlife Sanctuary and Kuldiha Wildlife Sanctuary. The Simlipal National Park derives its name from the abundance of red silk cotton trees growing in the area and is the 7th largest national park in India. The area is rich with dense forests, striking meadows, startling waterfalls and beautiful rivers. It is blessed with great bio-diversity and huge varieties of fauna that make it a great place to engage in wildlife sightseeing! Simlipal Reserve is home to more than 1000 varieties of plants. It has around 96 species of orchids that are endemic to the forest. Baripada is the nearest town to Simlipal and can be considered a gateway to the same.

The park has some beautiful waterfalls like Joranda and Barehipani Falls. It is home to Bengal tiger, Asian elephant, gaur, and chausingha. Besides Simlipal provides habitat fo as well as an orchidarium. This protected area is part of the UNESCO World Network of Biosphere Reserves since 2009.

Duduma Waterfalls
The 175-metre high horsetail type, single fall cascade of Duduma waterfall tears through the rugged rocks of the Eastern Ghats and the dark green deciduous forest that is so widespread in this region. It creates an exhilarating scene amidst the rustic greenery right along the border of Andhra Pradesh and Odisha. Formed by the Machkund river, which gets its name from the pilgrimage site Matsya Kunda near Paderu in Andhra Pradesh, the fall has two sub-waterfalls, one on the Odisha side and the other on the Andhra Pradesh side. The grandeur of the falls is at its full display especially during and after the monsoon. Along with the picturesque waterfall, there is also a hydel power project plant and a customary dam to facilitate it. With prior permission from the authorities, you can pay a visit to the powerhouse and get a first-hand experience of how this alternate source of energy is created. Located around 70 km from Jeypore, Duduma attracts those who love nature and want to explore places beyond the stereotypical boundary of tourism.

Chandaka Forest
The Chandka Elephant Sanctuary is a wildlife reserve located in the south fringe of Cuttack and is nestled on Khurdha uplands of the Eastern Ghats biotic region. The Chandaka Forest is spread over 175.79 sq km of rolling table land and small sprawling hillocks in the Khurdha and Cuttack districts. It was designated as an elephant reserve in December 1982. The floral diversity is distributed in six types and the Indian elephant is the flagship fauna species. There are a number of watch towers for visitors to observe wildlife. While the Kochilaberana, Pitagadia and Charichhak watch towers are excellent for observation of birds and animals, the ones at Kumarkhunti and Ambilo have the comfort of rest houses where one can make a night halt. There are also two water reservoirs, Deras Dam and Jhumka Dam, situated within the reserve. The cottages near Deras provide a scenic view of the Chandaka reserve and a chance to see wildlife.

Kotgarh Elephant Reserve
Situated in the Baliguda subdivision of the Kandhamal district the Kotgarh Wildlife Sanctuary is classified as an Eastern Highlands moist deciduous forest. Around 52 tribal villages such as Kutia Kondh and Desia Kondh inhabit the sanctuary. Designated and proposed reserve forests include Madagoda, Haripur, Lassery, Bonduru, Supamaha, Killangi, Subarnagiri and Guma. A known tiger habitat, the forest patch is adjacent to an old elephant corridor from Boudh, Karlapat and Lakhari valley in Gajapati district’s Gandahati waterfall region. The Kotgarh sanctuary is nominated to be a part of the proposed 14 elephant corridors for safe movement of the elephants which frequently come out of their habitation in search of food and water.

Karlapat Wildlife Sanctuary
The Karlapat Wildlife Sanctuary is located in the Kalahandi district and a very popular tourist attraction Located around 12 km from Bhawanipatna, the district headquarters of the Kalahandi district, the sanctuary covers an area of 175 sq km and lies within the Eastern Highlands moist deciduous forests ecoregion. A beautiful waterfall, ‘Phurlijharan’ has been developed as a picnic spot for the local visitors and draws large number of visitors from far off places in and around Kalahandi District. The sanctuary is home to a plethora wildlife animals and birds.The sanctuary is rich in wildlife such as leopard, gaur, sambar, nilgai, barking deer, mouse deer,soft claws ottawa, a wide variety of birds and reptiles. The undulated topography of the sanctuary, with hills, valley, perennial streams and deep water pools give it an unique charm.

Travel Bucket List – India: Odisha Part 4

After seeing the inland towns and cities of Odisha, let’s turn to it’s coastal cities. With a long coastline and the eastern boundary of the state being the Bay of Bengal, there are some stunning beaches in this state.

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Konark
65 kms south of Bhubaneshwar, Konark is set like a jewel against the stunning backdrop of the Bay of Bengal. One of the wonders of India, the carvings of the Konark Sun Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, attract large flocks of tourists throughout the year. Along with the marvelous temples, the city has a lovely beach and an engrossing archaeological museum to explore.

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The Konark Sun Temple is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the prime tourist attractions of Odisha along with the Puri Jagannath Temple. Built in the form of a giant rath or chariot of the Sun God, it depicts the chariot being pulled by a set of seven horses, four on the left side and three on the right. It has three deities dedicated to the Sun God on three different sides of the temple which catch the direct rays of sun in the morning, afternoon and evening. There is also a dedicated archaeological museum inside the temple complex. The temple transforms into a stage during The Konark Dance Festival, which is held every year usually in February for five days and attracts a lot of foreign and Indian tourists. The Sun Temple is one of the last standing structures from before the fifteenth century in the country. The sun rays reach the Nata Mandir from the coast and reflect through the diamond at the centre of the idol. The idol is believed to float mid-air due to arrangements of the magnets at the top of the temple but they were later removed due to the disturbance caused to ships and technology. An engineering and artistic masterpiece, the Sun Temple reflects the artistic genius of architects and sculptures of an ancient time despite the fact that much of the temple in ruins today. The Sun Temple complex also houses shrines, such as the Mayadevi Temple and Vaishnava Temple, which are popular among visitors.

Situated 3 kms east of Sun Temple where the Chandrabhaga river joins the sea is the Chandrabhaga Beach, one of the most beautiful and pollution free beaches in the country. Owing to its immaculately clean shores and crystal clear waters, the beach has been awarded with the Blue Flag Certification by the Foundation of Environmental Education (FEE), a tag given to environmental friendly beaches which meet their stringent standards. Lined with tall trees and vast expanse of golden sands, the beach holds cultural and historical importance as well. Several cultural festivals and religious fairs are held here frequently which attract a lot of pilgrims and devotees to the beach. During the annual Chandrabhaga Fair, the beach takes on a very different look and comes alive with people, colours, light and activities. Go to the top of the lighthouse standing near the beach to take in the beach, sea, people and activities.

The Archaeological Museum is situated outside the Sun Temple and houses some unique artifacts which reflect the essence of Oriyan art form. The museum has 250 different kinds of antiques recovered from the Sun Temple. The museum started operating from its present location in 1968, when the fallen structures and archaeological remains of the Sun Temple were shifted to the present museum. The museum comprises of four galleries which preserve around 260 antiques that have been retrieved from the clearance work of the Sun Temple like carved stones, images of Surya Narayana and erotic sculptures. Besides these, the museum also displays images of various other monuments and archaeological sites of Odisha. The museum is open from 10 am to 5 pm everyday except Friday.

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Astaranga meaning “colourful sunset” is a magnificent beach located near the mouth of the Devi river at a distance of 19 km from Konark. As the name suggests this beach is famous for the picturesque views that it provides during the sunset. The sky takes on vivid hues and the blue water in juxtaposition of it makes the whole place look magical. The beach is also a famous fishing village and every morning a market is set up on the beach from where you can purchase the different varieties of fresh fish. During the winter months the beach becomes a safe haven for the Olive Ridley turtles who nest here in large numbers and can be seen crawling on the sand. The best time to visit this beach is in the winter between October and March. There is a sufi shrine located at the edge of the beach is which is dedicated to Saint Makhdum Jahanganst. Visited by people from all faiths, the umbrella and wooden shoes of the saint are kept as relics.

Chaurasi is small village situated on the right bank of river Prachi. This place is famous for its temples dedicated to Barahi, Amareshras and Laxminarayanan. Barahi, also known as Varahi, is the name of Mother Goddess whose temple was built in the first quarter of the 10th century. Goddess Barahi is depicted to have a boar face and a pot belly, holding a fish in one hand and a cup in the other. She has a third eye on her forehead and is worshipped according to the tantric rituals. The temple is lavishly decorated and has a rectangular porch at the superstructure level. Tourists flock to have a glimpse of the unique Barahi deity, who is offered fish everyday. The other two temples dedicated to Laxminarayan and Amareshwar also attract visitors.

The Kakatpur Temple is located in a small village called Kakatpur on the Puri-Astaranga road around 30 km from Konark on the banks of river Prachi. Goddess Mangala is the chief deity of the temple and this temple has a link to Puri’s famous Lord Jagannath Temple. On the occasion of the Nabakalebara or the festival of restoration of the idols, the priests from the Lord Jagannath Temple come to Goddess Mangala at the Kakatpur Temple and pray to her to help them find the sacred trees to create the new idols for Jagannath, Subhadra and Balabhadra. Jhamu Yatra is a popular festival celebrated in the Kakatpura Temple. It falls on the first Tuesday of the Hindu calendar month of Baisakh, during April 14 to May 15, every year.

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The Ramachandi Temple, located around 5 km from Konark is the temple of the reigning Lord of Konark, Ramachandi, on the banks of Kushabhadra river. The temple is famous as one of the Sakta Pithas of Puri. The main temple is built on a raised platform and has figures of the Sun God on three walls of the temple – the south, west and north walls. Goddess Chandi, the reining deity, remains seated on a lotus flower inside the temple. This temple is believed to be more ancient than the Sun Temple of Konark. There is a beach near the temple which is a popular picnic spot among locals, especially young couples.

A unique place near Konark, Kuruma is a small village about 8 km from the Sun Temple. This place gained fame after excavations were carried out in this small hamlet from 1971 to 1975. The findings include a high wall and antique images of Heruka or Dharma, Sun God and Buddha. This place then became popular as a Buddhist tourist spot. The excavated site was believed to be constructed in the 9th–10th centuries and is believed to have been a Buddhist monastery. The idol of Buddha discovered at this place is seated in a cross-legged position. The right hand of the idol is in Bhumisparsha mudra and it has the left hand resting on the left knee. The image is a decorated one, with a beautiful crown and a wonderfully engraved necklace.

Paradeep
Paradip or Paradeep, is located at the confluence of Bay of Bengal and Mahanadi and is one of India’s busiest ports as well as the oldest and largest in the state. In addition to the busy dockyard, the city also has some amazing beaches that offer amazing views. Boasting of golden shimmering sands, indigo blue waters, lined with huge rock boulders, laced with emerald green forests and adorned with a quaint island is actually and estuary of the river Mahanadi. The dash of rocks at the side offers an amazing marine drive and make for an ideal day-out destination. Don’t forget to try the famous Paradeep Lassi, also known as the Gaveskar Lassi made from coconut. It is available both at the beach and in the town.

A towering light house is also situated on the beach which allows tourist to come have a look from the inside. The light house is only open from 5-5:30 pm so make sure you plan your visit to the lighthouse accordingly.

The Gahirmatha Beach located close to Paradeep beach is home to a rare species of white crocodiles, and is famous for white monitor lizards, sea turtles, migratory birds as well as deer. The Bhitarkanika National Park, a forest with mangroves criss-crossed by rivers and streams, can take you a hundred years back in history when man, nature and animals lived in harmony. The the beach has lately become a hub for nesting for olive Ridley sea turtles.

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The Paradeep Marine Aquarium houses an astonishing collection of vibrantly colourful fish. The in-house museum boasts of 28 splendid tanks with vast varieties of fresh water and marine species of fish and other aquatic animals.

The Smruti Udyan has been dedicated to the lives of thousands of people who died during the massive cyclone of 1999 that hit Odisha. The lush green garden at the front blooms with vibrant flowers ideal to spend an evening.

The Jagannath Temple is a tribute to India’s secular make-up. A 60-feet pillar called the Aruna Stambh is constructed at the entrance of the temple and has engraved holy symbols of Hinduism, Islam, Sikhism and Christianity. The most popular festival at the Jagannath Temple is the Car Festival where non-Hindus also take part enthusiastically in drawing the chariot and in other festivities.

Located at a short distance of 12 kms from the Paradeep Beach, Nehru Bangla is just the guest house where the first Prime Minister of India Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru stayed at when he came to inaugurate the Paradeep Port. The guest house has now also been converted into a tourism spot for people who want to go have a look.

The Hanuman temple is yet another prominent attraction here. Dedicated to Lord Hanuman, the tiny mandir invites pilgrims from the all over the city to pay homage. Tuesdays are the most crowded days of the week at the temple.

Gopalpur
A small coastal town around 15 km from Berhampur and close to the border with Andhra Pradesh, Gopalpur lies towards the south of the state. Gopalpur also has an ancient, commercial port, now lying in ruins. Under the ownership of the Soraine family the village grew in wealth, from an obscure little fishing village, Gopalpur became a prominent trading port. The family built the port, the lighthouse and the Albert Hotel and established both a local fishing industry and a trade route with Burma. What was once a bustling port city before being deserted, is today, one of the best beaches in the eastern coastline of the country. It is know for being an offbeat destination and a place for relaxation. The beaches are sparkling gold which along with the azure water of the Bay of Bengal providing a perfect place to relax and immerse yourself in nature.

The Gopalpur beach is a luxurious beach and is popular for being one of the few sites in India where Olive Ridley Turtles nest. Flanked with coconut and casuarina groves, it is a perfect outing for a languorous weekend. The beach, also known as ‘Gopalpur-on-Sea’ has a calm and soothing coast. It is famous for hosting the annual Gopalpur Beach Festival and offers up the possibility of experiencing a number of aqua sports.

One of the most popular landmarks of the beach is its lighthouse which offers a marvellous 360 degree view of the entire city of Gopalpur, the azure waters of the Bay of Bengal and some parts of the Chilika Lake. One can also see the exotic red crabs casually strolling on the beach’s lonely coast! The lighthouse is a great place for photographers, both professional and amateur, to capture amazing photos of the town and beach

Aryapalli Beach is an absolutely gorgeous beach during high tide at sunset. The coastline of Aryapalli Beach falls in the rain-shadow of the region, so the beach get a fair amount of rain during the monsoon season. The beach is a quiet and charming place where visitors can relax and refresh. It is a cherished experience that one gets by visiting the place. The best time to visit the beach is between the months of October and June. Surfing, sun bathing and swimming are a few leisure activities that are popular with visitors.

Sonepur Beach is considered by most of the tourists as one of the best beaches in the entire state of Orissa. Located on the borders of Andhra Pradesh and Orissa, this beach divides the sea from the main land along with the River Bahuda. Sonepur Beach is a natural beauty untouched by human civilization. This beach is quite close to Berhampur, just at a drive of around 11 km. You can take a motor boat services to the sangam or meeting point of the river and the Bay of Bengal.

The Maa Tara Tarini Hill Shrine is considered as one of the oldest shrines of Maa Tara in the entire country. It is situated on the Kumari Hills on the banks of the River Rushikulya, just a few kilometres away from the coastal town of Gopalpur and about 13 km away from Berhampur, the nearest railway station. Thousands of devotees visit the place on a regular basis in order to get the auspicious blessings of the Mother Goddesses. There are two Goddesses in the temple, Maa Tara and Maa Tarini beautifully ordained with gold and silver ornaments. They are believed by the locals to be the manifestations of Adi Shakti. The temple is also considered as one of the ancient Shakti Peethas of India.

Chandipur
16 km from Baleswar railway station, Chandipur is famous for its disappearing sea. A quaint seaside town which offers complete serenity and tranquillity, this is the best place if you want to relax and spend some quality time either alone or with your loved ones. India’s missile testing launch pad is also located here and missiles like Agni, Prithvi, Akash and Shaurya can be seen here. You can visit this testing range by taking special visiting permission from the authorities. Chandipur is also famous for its sea food and sweets which are a huge hit with tourists. Chandipur is at its best during winters when the cool breeze by the beach hits you as you walk along the seashore.

The Chandipur Beach’s unique specialty is the ebb tides that recede around 1 to 4 km during low tides and they tend to disappear rhythmically. The beach has spectacular views of the rising and setting sun. When the water disappears, you can even take jeep ride towards the sea. The sea disappears during the day in this beach and locals call this this the “Hide and Seek Sea”. Watching the sea disappear and miraculously reappear as it plays with you is an unforgettable experience that will leave you in awe of the miracles of nature. During the time when the sea receeds, you can walk deep into the actual seabed. In fact, when you walk on the beach when it has receded, only your feet get submerged into the shallow water and get surrounded by moist sand; so if you take a picture from afar, it looks as if you are actually walking on water.

The Panchalingeshwar Shrine, lies around 36 km from Chandipur and is located amidst the dense green vegetation and rocky hills of the Nilagiri Hills. It is popular for the Shiva shrine which is located on the hill top. Five Shiv Lingas which are born naturally in the middle of two large rocks with a stream flows over these Lingas. A temple has been built by the side where priests perform rituals and worship the deity. You need to climb 263 steps to get to the temple which start at the foot of the hill.

The town of Nilagiri or Blue Mountain is located around 32 km from Chandipur and where the Panchalineshwar temple is situated on one of the hills. The name comes from the apparent blue colour of the hills. The royal palace and the Jagannath temple adjacent to it are are must-vist places in this town. You can get to see the antique gold and diamond ornaments along with the royal clothes worn by the then Kings and Queens of Nilagiri kept for display inside the palace. The spectacular Khumkut Dam, close to the town can also be checked out.

Bhitarkanika, located at a distance of 206 km from Chandipur, lies at the delta of Bhramani, Baitarani and Dhamra rivers. Embellished with exotic wildlife and lush green forest, Bhitarkanika sees tourists pretty much throughout the year. Visitors have to take permission for entry from the Forest Authority of Bhitarkanika. To reach the place, one has to take a boat ride from Khola to Dangmal which is the only means of communication. The ride is very enthralling as one can witness the second-largest mangrove ecosystem in India. Bhitarkanika has a National Park encompassed by the Wildlife sanctuary. Gahira Matha beach lies nearby which acts as a separator between the jungle and the Bay of Bengal. Rich in flora and fauna, Bhitarkanika is home to exotic and endangered wild species like white crocodiles, saltwater crocodiles, monitor lizards, pythons, king cobra, darters and many more. Birds from Central Asia and Europe migrate here creating an added advantage for tourism

Travel Bucket List: India – Odisha Part 3

Moving on to more Odisha towns after the break last week, today’s places include

Puri
When you think of Odisha, the first thing that comes to mind is the Jaganath Temple at Puri and the annual Rathyatra. This ancient city is among the original Char Dhams that hold significance in the Hindu religion. The Char Dhams or four abodes are a set of four pilgrimage sites and Hindus believes that visiting these sites helps achieve Moksha or salvation. The four places are Badrinath, Dwaraka, Puri and Rameswaram, one on each nodal points in India. Hindus believe that one should visit these places a t least once in one’s lifetime. The highlight of Puri is the Chariot festival or the Rath Yatra which takes place during the months of June-July and should not be missed. Known as the resting place of Lord Shiva, this ancient city dates back to 3rd century BC.

Sri Jagannath Temple
The Jagannath Temple was built in the 11th century by King Indradyumna. The present temple was rebuilt from the 10th century onwards, on the site of an earlier temple, and begun by King Anantavarman Chodaganga Deva, first of the Eastern Ganga dynasty. The earthly abode of Lord Jagannath, a form of Lord Vishnu, this temple is part of the Char Dham sites and is a very holy pilgrimage site for Hindus. The complex with it’s rich Oriyan architechture consists of the main shrine plys many minor temples. The four gates are beautifully designed with intricate carvings. This temple is famous for its annual Ratha yatra, or chariot festival, in which the three principal deities are pulled on huge and elaborately decorated temple cars. These gave their name to the English term ‘Juggernaut’. Unlike the stone and metal icons found in most Hindu temples, the image of Jagannath is made of wood and is ceremoniously replaced every twelve or nineteen years by an exact replica. The Mahaprasad in the temple is scrumptious and is something that should not be missed. In one of the largest kitchens of India, the lip-smacking food is cooked in earthen pots for thousands every day and offered to devotees.

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The Jagannath Rath Yatra is a festival much loved in the state and is dedicated to Lord Jagannath i.e. Lord Krishna, his sister Goddess Subhadra and his elder brother Lord Balabhadra. Commonly known as Gundicha Yatra, Dasavatara, Chariot Festival or Navadina Yatra, it is celebrated every year in the month of June or July. During the Rath Yatra, between 400-500 thousand devotees flock to Puri to get a glimse of the Lord as it is believed that those who manage to get a glimpse of the idols will have a prosperous year ahead. The Yatra begins when three richly decorated chariots resembling temple structures are pulled through the streets of Badadanda in Puri. Devotees from all over the world help pull the Lords’ chariots along with the priests. This is considered to be a pious deed, and people even risk their lives in the huge crowd for the chance to serve the Lord. This is the only day when devotees who are not allowed in the temple premises, such as non-Hindus and foreigners, can get their glimpse of the deities. The huge processions accompanying the chariots play devotional songs. The Ratha carts themselves are some approximately 45 feet (14 m) high and are pulled by the thousands who congregate at Puri for this annual event. There are three main chariots carrying three deities that are a part of the celebration. All the three chariots are made of wood and decorated by local artists. Lord Jagannath’s chariot is the biggest of the three having 16 massive wheels and a height of 44 feet. While Lord Balabhadra’s chariot has 14 wheels and a height of 43 feet followed by Goddess Subhadra’s chariot having 12 wheels and a height of 42 feet. Lord Balaram’s chariot is pulled first, then Goddess Subhadra’s followed by Lord Jagannath’s.

This festival has also been mentioned in the Puranas of Hinduism including Padma, Brahma, and Skanda Purana. The Rath Yatra is organized every year due to the belief that every year Lord Krishna visits his birth place Mathura for a few days. In order to fulfil the wishes of the Lord, every year this yatra is conducted with its starting point being Jagannath Temple. The procession’s last destination is the Gundicha Temple, where the wishes of Kanha are fulfilled. Once the raths reach the Gundicha Temple, the deities reside at the temple for a period of nine days where pilgrims are allowed darshan before taking it back to Puri in the same way. The return journey is called the Bahuda Yatra. On the way back, the procession halts at the Mausi Maa Temple (their aunt’s abode) where the deities are served with Poda Pitha (a kind of a sweet pancake). It is a said to be a poor man’s food which was a favourite of Lord Jagannath. The Jagannath Rath Yatra is one of the grandest and oldest festivals celebrated in India every year. The Jagannath Rath Yatra for 202o is scheduled for 23rd June.

Situated near the Jagannath Temple, the Lakshmi Temple is a very important temple owing to the beliefs around the history of this structure. It is believed that the marriage of Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati happened on the sixth day of the fortnight of Jyeshta and they were invited to this temple by Goddess Lakshmi.

The Narendra Tank is one of the largest tanks in Odisha and is believed to have been built during the 15th century. This tank is considered holy and has a lot of small and big temples surrounding it. There is an island in the middle of the lake with a small temple called Chandana Mandapa.

Puri Beach is one of the finest coastlines in East India, bordering the Bay of Bengal and is located at a distance of 35 km from the Konark Sun Temple. It is often flocked by devotees visiting the beach for a purification dip who come to Puri to pay their homage to Lord Jagannath. The beach is also renowned for the sand sculptures made by internationally known sand artist Sudarshan Patnaik. The sculptures are usually inspired by the art covering the temple walls or other mythological character or episodes. Adorned with fine golden sand and gushing waves, Puri Beach is quite renowned for its peaceful and calm surroundings. The stretch on the Chakratirtha side is much more tranquil and pleasant for a long stroll.

Baripada
At a distance of 256 km from Bhubabeshwar and located closer to Kolkata than the state capital, Baripada is one of the cultural centres of Odisha, situated in the Mayurbhanj district. Its Rath Yatra is considered the biggest and oldest after Puri and thus Baripada is also known as Dwitiya Srikhetra or Second Puri. It is host to the world famous Car Festival (Rathyatra) which allows only women to pull the Rath of Maa Subhadra and gathers huge crowds. In this place, you can see some of the oldest temples in the state. The town also has its own dance form which is quite famous, known as the Chhau dance. Every year in mid April, there is a Chhau dance festival called Chaitra Parva festival for which people come from far and wide to witness. The Chhau dance is a dance form which is indigenous to the region and which has been inscribed in the UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity list in 2010.

The Sri Jagannath Temple which is dedicated to the Lord of the Universe, or Lord Jagannath witnesses an inflow of a large number of pilgrims throughout the year. The temple is also known as the second Srikhetra of Orissa and boasts of being one of the oldest temples of Orissa. The Rathyatra that takes place here is also a grand affair and is the second largest after the Puri Rath Yatra. At the same time, the rituals and practices that are followed at the temple are unique and revolutionary. In the Baripada Rathyatra, women devotees are given more priority, and they are allowed to pull Maa Subhadra Ratha. This distinguishing feature separates the Sri Jagannath Temple from the remaining ones and attracts a large number of female worshippers from neighbouring areas as well. This temple which is also locally known as Bada Jagannath, is a beautiful 700-year-old structure believed to have been built by Raja Harihara Bhanja, who was also the founder of the capital city.

At the Jwala Mukhi Temple, there is a blue burning flame is kindled as Goddess Jwala, the goddess of light or fire. The dome of this temple is made of gold which was gifted by Akbar, the Mughal emperor. The temple is situated in lush green surroundings and is a good visit to not only soothe your senses but also your soul.

The Palace of Mayur Bhanj is a beautiful massive white building which depicts an amazing fusion of engineering and architecture and is one of the landmarks of the town. This beautiful palace belonged to the Maharajas of Mayurbhanj which was a princely state during British Raj but was sold to the Orissa government after the independence by the last ruler of Bhanj dynasty. The palace, however needs a lot of renovation and is now divided into two colleges.

At the Baripada Museum get stunned by the some of the rarest artifacts here, like stone sculptures, historical documents, terracotta art pieces and other aesthetic commodities. The musem also has a library which has guide books about the history of the artifacts.

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Sambalpur
Known for its natural splendours, Sambalpur’s landscape is dotted with numerous waterfalls and plush green forests that beckon photography buffs, nature lovers, and adventure enthusiasts. Sambalpur is the gateway to the western part of Odisha and is the biggest city of this region. It abounds in rivers, hills, lush green forests and wildlife. The place also has a flourishing textile and handloom industry popular for its unique patterns and style, especially the Sambalpuri style of Saree. In addition to that, Sambalpur has a flourishing tribal life with an exquisite folk song and dance culture. Sambalpur got its name from Devi Samaleswari who is the main goddess of the region. One can also visit wildlife parks here to enjoy the beauty of nature that Sambalpur has in plenty. The area is known for the world famous Hirakud Dam which is the main attraction for the tourists here.

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The Samaleswari temple is located on the banks of Mahanadi and is dedicated to Devi Samaleswari also known as Jagannath Adishakti, Mahalaxmi and Mahasawarswati. The name of the city is derived from this goddess, Samaleswari as she is the main goddess of the region. On the bank of the river Mahanadi the mother goddess Samaleswari is worshipped from ancient times as Jagatjanani, Adishakti, Mahalaxmi and Mahasaraswati. The temple is of Sandhara order. These types of temples have a square sanctum enclosed by a gallery of pillars meant for Pradakshina. The Idol of Shree Shree Samalai Devi consists of a large block of Granite rock with an inverted, trunk like projection at the bottom. A shallow cut on her ‘Baraha’ like face symbolises her mouth. Traditional Sambalpuri nose ornament of pure gold hangs down from her imaginary nose. Among the varieties of festivals observed before the goddess throughout the year, three festivals are observed prominently. The first two are navaratra puja during the months of March and April and during the months of September and October. Among these two navaratra pujas which are nine days of continuous worship of the goddess, the second one is observed with a great splendour and devotion. The third festival which is said to be the chief festival of the whole western Odisha region is ‘Nuakhai’. In this festival, the farmers offer the first produce from their lands to the goddess before using it for his personal use.

The Leaning Temple of Huma, dedicated to Lord Shiva was built in the 17th century and is the only leaning temple in the world. In this temple, only the top is leaning while the pinnacle is perpendicular to the ground. It is said that the reason for this could be either earthquake or the flood current in the river Mahanadi. There is a huge gathering specially during Shivratri festival during March.

The Ghanteswari Temple owes its name to the number of bells that hang in the temple premises. Rows of tiny bells that jingle at the slightest touch form the barricades on either side of the entrance to the temple. The steps leading to the temple are framed by bells all around. A gateway has thousands of bells hung in place by devotees. Within the inner sanctum, bells adorn every possible surface. Bunches of bells adorn the doorway to the inner sanctum sanctorum. The sheer number of bells is because devotees who have had their wishes and requests fulfilled by the Goddess, hang a bell in the premises. The bells in the temple helped navigate boats in unruly weather conditions when the shore was not clearly visible. It served the purpose of a lighthouse.

Constructed across the Mahanadi River the Hirakud Dam is the longest human-made dam in India. Stretching between the Burla and Hirakud hills, the dam is over 56km long was built in the year 1956. The dam irrigates 7,500,000 hectares of land and also generates hydroelectricity. One of the major attractions here is a drive-through road that you takes you 21km over the dam allowing one to admire nature’s bounty. Another striking feature of the dam is the wide expanse of the view that it offers from the Gandhi and Nehru Minarets that are located towards the Northern Facade of the dam. It is also a fantastic site for birdwatching as it is surrounded by abundant water and trees on all sides. Situated near the dam is a hill called Budharaja hill, which is well-known for the Budharaja Temple at its peak. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, this temple offers breathtaking views of the dam.

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Cattle Island is a submerged hill in the Hirakud reservoir. The island was a developed village prior to the construction of the Hirakud Dam. Once the dam reached completion, the villagers living in the surrounding area were asked to evacuate. The villagers when relocating left a few domesticated cattle behind which were a part of the livestock they owned. The cattle over time bred and created a wild species of cattle for which humans are the alien species. Nearly all the cattle are white or cream coloured, lending an ethereal quality to the entire island. The cattle, being wild, are significantly larger and more ferocious than their domestic counterparts. They are believed to be blindly fast and protective of their land. Attempts made by man to capture these wild beasts have been in vain so far. Visit the island to see the remnants of a village recaptured and fiercely protected by nature.

Vikramkhol is a rock shelter or cave dating back to the Mesolithic period (between 3000 and 4000 BC). The caves have some form of inscriptions or art engraved into the walls of the cave. Located 81 km outside Sambalpur within a forested area, the caves are believed to be 37 m long and nearly 8 m high. These caves are not very easy to get to as paved roads have not been put down in an attempt to preserve the area.

Rourkela
Known as ‘Steel City of India’, Rourkela is one of the largest cities of Odisha as well as its commercial capital. The stands nestled amongst natural surroundings, endowed with hills and enriched by rivers. This city is a part of the tribal hub of the Sundargarh district. This city came into focus for having the Rourkela Steel Plant, which introduced CCTV to the continent of Asia for the first time in 1984. It also holds great religious significance due to its prominence in epics like the Ramayana and Mahabharata.

15km from NH215 near Lahunipara is this beautiful surprise of nature. Falling from steep mountain from a height of 244 meters, the Kandahar Falls it emerges like the edge of the sword and hence is named so. These falls are the highest in Odisha. It is not easy to locate Khandadhar, but once here, you can feel your long and mostly uncomfortable journey was worth it.

By the NH23 towards Rajamunda, on the banks of Brahmani about 45 km from Rourkela is the small village of Darjingis. This is a local favourite picnic spot because the river bed at this point is a beautiful golden hue which makes the river glisten like gold. Darjin has a lovely Inspection Bungalow with an amazing garden that faces the river. Another popular spot is Deoghar which is three km ahead of Darjing.

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Earlier known as Parasara Munda, Vedavyas is regarded as a tirtha stal or holy place. It is situated at a place where the waters of rivers Koel, Shankha and Saraswati unite. Because of this, the place is also known as Tridhara Sangaam. Situated at a distance of about 9 km from the city of Rourkela, this place holds historic significance. The Gurukula and Vedic Ashram system of education is a well-known feature of this place. Legend says that the great saint, Maharishi Vyas had scripted the greatest Hindu epic, the Mahabharata, at this very spot. Here one can enjoy a tour of the Vyas Caves which can be toured using boats.

27km away from Rourkela and 25 km from Vedavyas, Ghogar is a gorge on the river Ib. There is also a naturally formed Shivalinga, made of black granite, this Shiva linga is extensively preached by the followers. The temple in this gorge has a history which can be traced back at least five centuries. The temple was constructed by the king of Sundargarh Raghunath Sekhar Deo. The uniqueness of the temple is that till date it is the priests appointed by the people of Bhuyan community that perform worship here.